Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Von Dee]

Now that I have more time then ever on weekends <<<<since one of my New Years resolutions was to stay home more often>>>> I been wanting to use my time wisely & learn new things, I been having this erge to sew'... my inspirations are retro vintage styles......my main focus is home decor, maybe starting off with some cute tiki curtains'....However I have no idea where to start, anything is helpful. If any of yu, have that magic touch, know any good books for beginers, or any helpful links, please keep me in mind!' Thanks Much....

[whistlebait]

Unfortunately, I don't sew, but a lot of the ladies on here do and if you wait a few days, you are sure to get more than a few replies to this thread. Good luck!

[Von Dee]

Unfortunately, I don't sew, but a lot of the ladies on here do and if you wait a few days, you are sure to get more than a few replies to this thread. Good luck!


How sweet of you, thanx much for stopin by!'

[whistlebait]

Your welcomed!

[decodoll]

A good reference book is the Complete Guide to Sewing by Reader's Digest. You can find answers to all your basic questions and many, many more. I'd start with http://www.equilter.com or http://www.reprodepot.com for fabric. You shouldn't really need a pattern for curtains if they are just a simple panel with a pocket at the top for a rod, just remember to double or triple the width depending on how much gathering you want. If you have more specific questions, just ask away. :) It sounds like an easy and fun project unlike the huge and very heavy velour drapes I just finished for the office....why did I ever volunteer to make those!??:p

[Von Dee]

OOOh, thanx much for the info, like I said, anything is helpful! I'm going to look into those links right now!'

Thanx again!

[Von Dee]

Wow, that was so helpful, luving the fabric, this was excatly what I was looking for... I guess, all I need now is a sewing machine.....hmmmm? Okay, that sounded' somewat funny, but I wasen't playing' when I said "I have no idea where to start "I really meant it..... :p

[katiemakeup]

Wow, that was so helpful, luving the fabric, this was excatly what I was looking for... I guess, all I need now is a sewing machine.....hmmmm? Okay, that sounded' somewat funny, but I wasen't playing' when I said "I have no idea where to start "I really meant it..... :p

Ha ha! Maybe you can find a vintage one on ebay? I know new ones can get really expensive. Maybe going to a fabric store for scraps to practice on, to. Now, I have a tendency to be lazy & impatient so I got a 'Knitting for Dummies' book a few years ago- I am sure there is a sewing one- and I was knitting @ the first paragraph! Patterns can be a little overwhelming to decypher so a class at your local craft store can be helpful. have fun!! :)

[Burma Shave]

...ladies, but I know where she's coming from. I enjoy making something from nothing, and sometimes it seems the only way to get what you want is to make it yourself. I saw a photo of a necktie recently that I loved -- but couldn't find one even similar to it anywhere. It was a large scale glen plaid in greys and browns, looking similar to one I'd seen in photos of my great-grandfather. Since I couldn't find one, I had to make it. Went to a fabric store, found some suit wool (100s wool), bought a yard, made the tie, and wore it to go out that night with my lady friend. Luckily, I've read enough to know I needed to cut it out diagonally (something having to do with bias cut, I think?) and it actually looks pretty good.

No pattern. I took apart one of my old 80s ties and used it as a pattern, just widening it up enough to make it the proper width.

I do need to get a sewing machine. There's enough material in a yard to make two ties and I'm going to make the same one again, with more care. The problem is, now I'm looking at all my ill-fitting vests and pants, wondering if I could make them fit better.

I have to ask: Is sewing addictive?

[Miss Neecerie]

A good reference book is the Complete Guide to Sewing by Reader's Digest. You can find answers to all your basic questions and many, many more.


I heartily second the Readers Digest book. Its wonderful. I have just started to learn to sew, and I went through my whole first pattern, by stopping and looking up in the Readers Digest guide 'what did they mean by that' from the pattern instructions.

In terms of sewing machines, I got a new Brother for less then 200 dollars...not cheap..but also not pricey. It does more then I currently need, so has a bit of 'growing and learning ' room..and works wonderfully.

I had tried to learn on my grandmothers vintage one, and decided that I was spending more time trying to adjust tension, get it threaded, keep things running...then I was sewing and learning to sew...

My 2 cents

[decodoll]

Glad I was able to help, Von Dee. :)

I'll second Miss Neecerie's recommendation of a Brother machine. I have an expenisve one with all the bells and whistles, but my mom has a model made just for Costco (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10048753&whse=&topnav=&browse=&s=1) that runs about $150 and a friend just got an even more basic one at Walmart (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=2519826) for $70. We have all been very happy with our Brothers at each price point.

Burma Shave, thought you might be interested in this 1930's six-fold necktie pattern (http://www.evadress.com/519.html)for sale at Evadress. And yes, sewing can be rather addictive.... as well as fabric and pattern shopping... :D

[Nick Charles]

Been pondering that question, thanks for the site I bought two patterns, ladies 1945 trousers and mens 1920's Knickers.

[Von Dee]

Wow, I never knew this site can be so helpful, yu guys are the best, thanx much... Now that I got all this helpful information, I'm going to start with the basics.... I find it easier 'when I read everything I need to know on a paticular subject, after I fill myself with as much knowledge as possible, I'm going to take a trip to the nearest fabric store to buy material, & I'm going make it very clear it's my first shoping for fabric, in other words HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!" Than I'm going to purchase a brother sewing machine at Walmart, after that I'm going to practice on material, wish me luck, because I'm very impatient...:rage: :p ;) after all this I'll start working on my first project, than Ill post it, so all of you can see the end result.... & of course I owe it all to yu beautiful ladies!!!!!!!!!!" Oh & the fellas, can't forget the fellas......:cheers1:

[swankysister]

Hey Von Dee,
Learning to sew by practising on straight lines (such as a bag, or if you're adventurous, on curtains) is a good starting point.
It may also be worth checking out garage sales in your town for people offloading sewing machines that they never use. Or, try a Beginners Sewing course where they supply the sewing machines to see if it's your type of game.
I have just enrolled in an adult education evening course in Beginners Sewing. I've tried self-tuition in reading and using a pattern, but hopefully the course will teach me to make buttonholes and insert zippers, which will move me beyond the 'can only make stuff with elastic waists and no pockets' stage.
For vintage sewing, I was advised to purchase the 1950s book 'Successful Dressmaking' by Ellen and Marietta Resek. I suspect that it is an Australian publication, but it shows you how to measure up and construct a bodice specific to your measurements. The book also recommends how you can make various styles (now considered vintage) based on this customised bodice.
Ask around about a sewing circle as well...there may be a group in your area that meets regularly to sew and swap advice.
Good luck!:)

[Lauren]

I second the Sewing class idea. It really helps to have someone there who's knowlegable about sewing to help you along.

As for fabric, make sure whatever it is, that you wash it or dry clean it before you start sewing! There's nothing worse that finally finishing that perfect little shirt, only to have it shrink to childsize after the first wash! You can wash in your washing machine polyesters and cottons, and even linen (but dry it on a low heat). You should have wool, silk, acetate and rayon dry cleaned.

Get a modern commerical pattern that's in the "easy" section of the pattern book. Once you feel like you've got the basics down, move on. I don't recommend starting with something more complex, because if you don't get it right it's easy to say "Sewing's not for me" and move on to another hobby. Like all other things learned, you must learn the basics and build upon them. Something we had to do in school was trace lines drawn on the fabric with your sewing stitches. To do this, get some muslin (ask for it at your fabric store. It's just about the cheapest stuff you can get). Use colored thread. You don't need to wash the fabric. Draw on the fabric different designs. Try straight lines, then a large zig zag, then a spiral. Trying to follow the designs will make you comforatable with the way the machine works. Different machines are like different cars, the pedals react differently. Some go fast with a light tough, some require more pressure. Also, get familiar with the backstitching button. Make it second nature to go forward a few stitches, then back a few stitches, then forward, until the end, then go back a few stitches, then forward a few stitches again. Backstitching is like tying a knot in the thread. It keeps it from coming unraveled as you're putting more pieces together.

Hope this all helps!

[Vanessa]

I have to ask: Is sewing addictive?

Yes. Terribly. And it leads to an even worse addiction. . .pattern buying.

[decodoll]

Oh yes...and don't forget to press your seams as you go. It will make a huge difference in the end result. :)

[swankysister]

Yes. Terribly. And it leads to an even worse addiction. . .pattern buying.

Then, you move onto buying fabric when you don't really need it. As the saying goes, "He/she who dies with the most fabric, wins!"

[Lauren]

Haha! I don't know those two diseases at all :p
Ok, yes. A dedicated pattern and fabric horder am I.

[swankysister]

Haha! I don't know those two diseases at all :p
Ok, yes. A dedicated pattern and fabric horder am I.

Heh, I'm afraid that your posts about your clever ebay purchases have already revealed your 'dark side' Lauren Henline. ;)

[colleency]

I would add to the great recommendations of the others that you should make sure that your first machine has at least a three-step buttonholer. It should have two settings that makes each side of the buttonhole and one that makes the ends. (Of course, if the machine you're looking at has a one-step buttonhole, that's even better.) If you decide to go with something used, be sure to try it out before purchasing. Try it on a couple of different types of fabric.

Someone suggested that you wash or dry clean your fabric. Remember to treat how it will be treated after you sew the garment. So if you're making a cotton dress, you will be washing it by machine. Wash your fabric by machine. If you're making a wool skirt, you will be dry cleaning it. Send your fabric to the dry cleaners.

[Vanessa]

Then, you move onto buying fabric when you don't really need it. As the saying goes, "He/she who dies with the most fabric, wins!"


No, no no - she who is the best friend of the one who dies with the most fabric, wins. ;)

[Ms.Casino]

edited

[Von Dee]

I honestly don't know what I would have done without this awsome info I got from all yu lovely ladies, It's been so helpful.... I can't wait to start, & as far as the sewing classes, they sound like my cup of tea'... I'm a visual learner, something about direction & guidance, they suit me well!!! Hey well I posted a blog on my 360, http://360.yahoo.com/my_profile.html, I usually do some updates on there, So anyhow, I hope some of yu can join me on there, or if yu already have a 360 on yahoo, add me as a friend.... :) why don't yu... wink*

[Tin Pan Sally]

Good pointers here. I agree that the "Complete Guide To Sewing" by Readers Digest is extremely helpful. I also recommend the following: "Designing Apparel Through The Flat Pattern", "Fashion Handbook" by Tate Edwards, "Fabric Reference" by Humphrys, "Creative Sewing Ideas" by Singer, "Fabric Lovers Scrapbook" by Dittman. Also, just for fun, "A History of Costume" by Kohler, "Clothes On And Off Stage" by Chalmers. Dover catalog has a few fashion history books.
Most community colleges offer credit sewing courses. It's really easy once you get started. It's like learning to drive a car at first, especially if you never had anyone to show you how. Hang in there, you'll love it.

[swankysister]

No, no no - she who is the best friend of the one who dies with the most fabric, wins. ;)

Heh, okay Vanessa. I'll have to write a separate clause in my will: "I entrust my paltry fabric collection to..." ;)

Another piece of sewing advice I was given was to do a 'practice run' sewing from a pattern using a really lightweight 'pattern copying' material (about A$0.99/metre) or calico. There is a technical term for this, but I can't remember. It helps you to become familiar with the pattern and make a better product in the end, although you need to be mindful of using heavier or lighter materials in your final efforts.

[Tin Pan Sally]

I sometimes do a practice piece in cheap muslin for a fitted bodice to make sure it is correct. Especially if I've made a pattern from scratch using rubbings of a vintage item. I've never completed an entire outfit as a trial run though. Just inside seams (like a vest), no finishing.

[AllaboutEve]

Just got back from my first all day "sewing workshop" today, and I would recommend that you try booking yourself into a class once you have learned the basics of machining to learn some pattern adjustment and fitting.

I am not very experienced having only ever made couture doll's clothes, never anything for a real person, and never anything much to fit around all of my lumps and bumps!!........ but the class I just went to was a revelation.
For instance I had NO idea that all commercial patterns are cut for a "B" cup bust unless specified otherwise (which doesn't leave me any room at all), I spent a very long time adjusting the paper pattern for an original 40's dress I picked up on Ebay, and boy am I glad I did before I rushed ahead with fabric etc.

I have never had anyone to show me how to fit before, I spent the whole day just getting the toile pieces together and go back for my first fit soon once I have finished it off at home.

Books are really great and very helpful but there is nothing more wonderful than a good teacher to take all the maths and diagrams away and just show you how!

Don't know if you have anything like this near to home but I would really recommend it as it has given me so much more confidence.
Good luck!
:p

[swankysister]

Books are really great and very helpful but there is nothing more wonderful than a good teacher to take all the maths and diagrams away and just show you how!

Agreed. I find that whatever course I do, if I bring a little knowledge with me, then I get more out of it. If I turn up cold to a course, then I tend to flail about too much and miss out on learning the basics, rather than reinforce and refine the basics.

I'd recommend reading books that have been recommended here so far, or magazines such as Threads, browsing through sewing pattern catalogues - especially the 'Easy Sewing' categories - to try and decipher them (just resist the urge to buy too many). ;)

Then, when you've got a tiny bit of knowledge and a lot of questions, head along to a Beginners sewing course.

[Lauren]

I love Threads magazine. It's expensive, but its SO worth the price.

[colleency]

There are some internet spots that offer discounts on subscriptions to Threads.

[AllaboutEve]

I love Threads magazine. It's expensive, but its SO worth the price.

I thought it was just expensive here in the UK, I am surprised that it is expensive in the States too! but I agree well worth the money.

I just picked up a copy of a fantastic book called "Sew any fabric" by Claire Sheaffer, it covers just about every fabric I know and lists all the workroom secrets and sewing techniques for all of them.


...........my partner just asked me "who are you frantically typing to?" and I told him how great this forum is, how much I have learned here and that it's one of the best places I've ever found on the internet!!!!! Just thought I'd share that with you all!
:)

[Tin Pan Sally]

Threads is worth the price.
I have a fitting question: I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m just curious how many of my fellow tailors/seamstresses use a sloper vs draping over a form?

[Lauren]

Well, I personally prefer draping, but the problem is my form for draping is not my size (nor the size for most people I know!) So I drape on the form, transfer the muslin to pattern paper, then clean it up with a sloper after I've resized it, and add seam allowances. I really hate flat pattern drafting and generally only do it if I'm desperate or am doing it for a client.

[Tin Pan Sally]

I love flat pattern drafting, but then, I haven't been trained in draping. I may just take a course.

[decodoll]

Well, I personally prefer draping, but the problem is my form for draping is not my size (nor the size for most people I know!) So I drape on the form, transfer the muslin to pattern paper, then clean it up with a sloper after I've resized it, and add seam allowances. I really hate flat pattern drafting and generally only do it if I'm desperate or am doing it for a client.

um...yeah...who came up with the proportions for professional dress forms anyway!?? That's why I didn't spring for one and got the Uniquely You, which I think I need to take the cover off of again and adjust the upper bust before I start the Renaissance project. That thing is not fun to get back on...

[Lauren]

Sheesh! I know! I should have just gotten one in my size instead of the "standard size" while I was splurging. Now I mostly sew for myself and it would have made it a heck of a lot easier if the form was to my measurements.

Are the uniquely you ones the ones that are foam and you make a cover? Vanessa has one of the foam ones, but I think I'd have to hack off half the breasts to make it even remotely resemble my figure. Even those puppies compressed is larger than I'd EVER be endowed!

Ooh... good luck on the new cover! You are one determined girl! :) But your dress is going to be STUNNING! You have to post pics of the progress! Puhleese!!

[decodoll]

Yes, it's the same one Vanessa has. I have the same issue....I think that's why the upper chest is too big. All that extra foam gets pushed up there. I think I may shave some off if taking the cover in more doesn't do it. I had the whole office in hysterics when it came in the mail. lol

I'll try to remember to take pics as I go. I've been reading though the pattern I got from Margo's Patterns today. Not sure how much of the pattern I will actually use since it's Elizabethan, and I'm doing Venetian, but the 150 pages of instructions that come with it are worth the price.

Okay...that's a bit too retro for this forum...back to the golden era. :D

[Vanessa]

Are the uniquely you ones the ones that are foam and you make a cover? Vanessa has one of the foam ones, but I think I'd have to hack off half the breasts to make it even remotely resemble my figure. Even those puppies compressed is larger than I'd EVER be endowed!


It took about a month and half to get Betty slimmed down to anywhere near my size. This included the initial fitting and wrangling her into the cover and then all the subsequent runs of alterations/struggling to get her back into it/measuring and taking it off again.
I had ordered the smallest size form and the corresponding cover thinking that she would compress as easily as I was told.
I've got a picture here (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/vessangel/dressform.jpg) of what she started out like. . .I admit, it's been a battle to get her girls under control enough so that I can use the form, but it's better than doing without. Betty still needs to have a little reduction work done. She may just have to go under the knife soon.
(And if you're wondering, everyone's taken to calling the dressform Betty Nugs.)

[Tin Pan Sally]

For those of you who use a sloper(s); Did you make it/them from gingham or muslin? Do you keep it/them rolled on a cardboard tube or hang them?

I use the cheapest muslin I can find.

Also, when designing, do you keep your mini trial patterns? I do, but I'm not sure why. I could make doll clothes, I suppose.

[Lauren]

I make my mock ups in muslin. I buy a bolt in the garment district and that lasts me a while. They sell it every once in a while at the $1 a yard store in 60" widths. Then I make my markings for grainline on them in pencil to keep it straight. After I'm done I transfer it to dotted pattern paper, then manila, and hang them on pattern hooks. I don't actually use mini patterns. I always do it full scale. I never learned how to make small patterns. Sounds like something I need to learn!

[Tin Pan Sally]

I only do minis to see if an idea will work. If it does, I scale it up. That's just how I was shown to do it. Maybe there's a better way, but that works for me.
I use the tracing paper on a roll.

[Big Man]

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/Burke1777/DSC01697.jpg

I have a question for the ladies who sew. This is a photo of my grandmother's old Singer sewing machine. Do any of you have an idea of the age of this old sewing machine?

Thanks.

[Lauren]

I only do minis to see if an idea will work. If it does, I scale it up. That's just how I was shown to do it. Maybe there's a better way, but that works for me.
I use the tracing paper on a roll.

Are there any books or anything that you know of that show you how to do minis? I'm really interested now!

[Tin Pan Sally]

I have a question for the ladies who sew. This is a photo of my grandmother's old Singer sewing machine. Do any of you have an idea of the age of this old sewing machine?Thanks.

You can look up old machines on the Singer site. Can you find a model number?

[Tin Pan Sally]

Are there any books or anything that you know of that show you how to do minis? I'm really interested now!

I think this one does. I'll have to check it when I get home from work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0870057375/102-1295079-3708115?v=glance&n=283155

[Big Man]

You can look up old machines on the Singer site. Can you find a model number?

Thanks. I'll try to find a model number and check out the site.

[decodoll]

Are there any books or anything that you know of that show you how to do minis? I'm really interested now!

I haven't used half scale patterns since my junior college days. I think I still have my half sized sloper tucked away in my Patternmaking for Fashion Design book. The only reason we used them is because the JC only had enough money to buy half-scale dress forms. Lauren, if you have this book, there are half scale patterns printed in the back pages that you can photocopy and transfer to tag board. You work with them just like a full size sloper.

[Miss Neecerie]

wow....this has most definatly eclipsed the 'where to start?'

and gone right to 'serious designers and sewers' hasnt it? Funny how threads do that..

Some of us are back on 'pattern reading 101' and so this has all gone greek ;)

[Tin Pan Sally]

Thanks. I'll try to find a model number and check out the site.

You're welcome. That is a beautiful machine. I love it when people keep heirlooms. I hope you find the info you need. It's very old, that's about the best I can do for you. I'm not much help.


Oops, I'm so sorry I highjacked this thread.

[Big Man]

... Oops, I'm so sorry I highjacked this thread.

I guess I hijacked it a bit, too. Sorry. It's just that this discussion (or rather the ladies participating in it) seemed to be the best potential collection of "knowledge-base" on the subject.

Now, back to your discussion and I'll bow out. Again, thanks!

[Miss Neecerie]

ooh no.....

Please don't think I was objecting to it transforming into more serious sewing.

I comment on things and mean them just as that..not as a criticism.


Denise...goes off to the "unclear in print" corner

[decodoll]

It took about a month and half to get Betty slimmed down to anywhere near my size. This included the initial fitting and wrangling her into the cover and then all the subsequent runs of alterations/struggling to get her back into it/measuring and taking it off again.
I had ordered the smallest size form and the corresponding cover thinking that she would compress as easily as I was told.
I've got a picture here (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/vessangel/dressform.jpg) of what she started out like. . .I admit, it's been a battle to get her girls under control enough so that I can use the form, but it's better than doing without. Betty still needs to have a little reduction work done. She may just have to go under the knife soon.
(And if you're wondering, everyone's taken to calling the dressform Betty Nugs.)

I have a feeling that the cover keeps stretching for awhile after you put it on as well. I just remeasured her this morning and it looks like I have to take in the hips again also. Betty is cute... My new kitten's name is Betty. :)

[Lauren]

Aww! You have a new kitten? What's she look like?

[Vanessa]

I have a feeling that the cover keeps stretching for awhile after you put it on as well. I just remeasured her this morning and it looks like I have to take in the hips again also.

It does. You have to make it smaller than you are just so that when it stretches with the push of the foam, that it's your size. Fun fun.

[decodoll]

Yeah, I did that. But I think she's still grown a little bit more since I last measured her. :)

Yes, I do. She's such a cutie. :) Here's a pic. I don't know if you can really tell in the picture, but she's the colour of mink.

http://homepage.mac.com/jensalas/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2006-02-13%2022.54.07%20-0800/Image-5BB736389D2611DA.jpg

[Lauren]

Aww!!! What a cutie! I love her!

[decodoll]

Aww!!! What a cutie! I love her!

Thanks. :) heehe...she knows she's a cutie too. She loves to admire herself in my vanity mirror!

[Tin Pan Sally]

Here is an example of a half-size (we call them mini's):

[Mr_Misanthropy]

Hello ladies,

I just received a vintage suit, and had to do sew some buttons onto it. I realized, I had no clue what I was doing. I managed to get them on, and they look fine.. but, I need to learn to sew. Just simple needle and thread hand sewing, no seeing machines, they frighten me. I just would like to know tricks how to needle a thread and tie little tiny knots, the basics. I was wondering if maybe someone had a link to a good resource, maybe a tutorial on the basics.

Also, my equipment at the moment is a small $3 Wal Mart sewing kit with a bunch of cheap thread, needles, and not even a thimble. Can anyone recommend where to find a decent kit with what I'll need? My poor thumbs would appreciate it.

Thank you for your time.

Regards,
Jeremy

[Rosie]

Hi, hope I can be of a bit of help. Here's something I found:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4604_sew-button.html

also here:

http://sewing.about.com/

in my opinion, you don't need a sewing "kit". Just get a pack of decent needles from a KMart/Walmart type store. And get some thread in the colors you usually wear. Try getting a bigger needle with a bigger eye, that will help in the beginning with threading and it will protect your poor fingers until you get the hang of it.

[Mr_Misanthropy]

Thank you! Both of those sites are excellent. Just what I was looking for. Thank you for your help!

-Jeremiah

[humblestumble]

I've been wanting a Crinoline for a while now, and I look around online at the stores and they are around 40-100 or so bucks. I know how to sew, but I haven't happened upon clear instructions on how to do it all. Of course, mine would be for circle skirts and dress with the look of the 50s.

I know you have to gather the tulle or netting, I know there's an A line skirt underneath with a non-scratchy material, and even another layer on top of that if you dont want the tulle or net to stick to your skirt, I also know that the tulle or netting doesn't start at the waistline...

My problems are - how do you add the binding on the edges and seams of the tiers to make it all pretty? Do you make the binding yourself, or buy it? Am I supposed to gather every tier of tulle? Are there more layers of tulle every subsequent tier?

And of course I would love any other tips. I'm just hoping I can save some money in the long run in case I fall in love with them and want to make a bunch in different colors. If I can't make mine I was thinking of going with daddyos.com's. Although I've heard that it isn't recommended to have an elastic waist (I dont know why that is)

I've heard that it isn't hard to make them, but I just dont know if I should buy a pattern for them, if there even is a decent one, or what.

Help, please :D

[Rosie]

I was going to do this. I found this: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/simplicity_5726.phpwhich makes a longer crinoline but gives you an idea of where to get started. Truthfully, in my opinion, after buying all of the items needed, not to mention the time spent in gathering layers and layers and layers of netting, you might be better off buying one. http://www.heyviv.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=960&catid=82Hey Viv has one for under $30. This ebay store sells them: http://stores.ebay.com/Pats-Habadashery_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZ km

This ebay store sells them:
http://stores.ebay.com/Heidis-Have-to-Haves

This one too:
http://stores.ebay.com/Pats-Fine-Treasures

[humblestumble]

Thanks so much!

I actually found this one that tells you in really simple terms how to make a rather puffy one, and I understand it better now than before, but I think the cost of the ribbon would skyrocket the cost of the petticoat. Because with just tulle it comes to about ten bucks.

http://www.pettipond.com/lon.htm

It's still kind of confusing to me and leaves me with some questions, but I will go visit those other sites you mentioned and try to calculate the cost. Thanks again :D

[Rosie]

http://www.pettipond.com/lon.htm




Oh, I haven't seen that before. I'm too lazy to try and figure that out but, if you want to make one and if the netting only comes out to about 10 dollars, you're good to go. Just check ebay or some craft store and you can probably get an entire roll of ribbon for very cheap. Also, I admittedly am not the greatest seamstress in the world. Some of the ladies on here are extremely good. Maybe they'll chime in. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[shindeco]

It's not quite a full fledged crinoline but in the magazine Smart Sewing from 1953, there are two patterns for petticoats. This is a great magazine, BTW, because all the patterns are included in the magazine. I've copied out the one pattern that's easiest. It makes a fairly full petticoat that is "terrific for dancing, square dancing or just to give a little bounce to your full skirts". Unfortunately, our scanner is down so I can't scan the picture.

Tiered Petticoat
Smart Sewing, (1953)

Materials:
2 1/3 yds. Belding Corticelli’s Taffalon (nylon), 45” wide
two 75 yd. spools Belding Corticelli’sNymo thread in color to match fabric
1 yd. grosgrain belting
One 7” Seam Thin Talon zipper
Hooks and eyes.

Cutting
1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise and pin selvages together.
2. Determine the finished length desired for petticoat by measuring from waistline (not including waistband) to finished hemline. For example: If your finished length in 28”, cut ten strips across fabric, each 8” wide. For each additional inch in length add one quarter inch to width of strips.
[Note: Basically, you’re cutting 10 strips of fabric crosswise. The width of the strip depends on how long you want the petticoat]

Sewing:
1. Keeping right sides of fabric together, join 4 strips of fabric making one long strip. (Take half inch seams.) This makes the bottom tier of the petticoat.
2. Join 3 more strips together in the same manner; this is the third tier.
3. Join 2 of the remaining strips together for the second tier.
4. The one remaining strip is the top tier. Shirr each tier.

Adjust your sewing machine for the longest stitch possible. Make one row of stitching half an inch from the top edge of each strip. Make a second row of stitching a quarter of an inch below the first row.

To simplify pulling gathers later on, end the rows of shirring inside the seam leaving long threads at beginning and end of each tow.

Draw up bobbin threads on second tier and distribute gathers evenly until it fits on to the bottom edge of the first tier. Keeping right sides together pin and stitch taking a half inch seam. Turn to right side and topstitch along bottom edge of first tier, keeping seam turned up.

Pin and stitch third tier to bottom edge of second and fourth tier to bottom edge of third following same procedure as above.

Cut grosgrain belting to fit your waistline, adding one and a half inches. Turn back three quarters of an inch at each end.

Draw gathers on top tier to fit edge of belting. Topstitch grosgrain to petticoat from right side.

Wrong side out, pin side seam together matching tiers. Stitch taking a three quarter inch seam; leave opening for zipper.

Turn a one quarter inch hem at bottom edge of petticoat and stitch on wrong side.

Insert a 7” lightweight skirt zipper at opening, following directions on package. Sew on hooks and eyes at waistline.

[humblestumble]

Actually, I think a petticoat is exactly the thing I was looking for. Crinolines are much bigger, yes?

Thanks so much for posting this! I think I shall just try this and try to stop worrying so much about screwing it up. When it says to use Taffalon, does that just mean netting or tulle? And I wonder if I should add all this onto an A-line skirt made with something less scratchy.

I think making it will save me a lot of money. Hopefully it will be worth it!

[Annalai]

Hi,

I have made petticoats from similar soft net (soft tyll, tulle is the name they sell it under here in Sweden) they use for bridal veils and not the very hard scratchy one. Insted of lace around the bottom edge I have used satin binding so it does not scratch the stockings.
With this soft net the petticoat does not get very full but still nice to wear under a circle skirt or dress for daywear.

I find it easy to make and I have just started to sew. I also makes my own circle skirts also very easy to make to your own measurements without bying a pattern.

I think the reason for not having an elastic waist is it adds bulk around your waistline and may show under the skirt or dress. I have made mine with elastic but cut so I just get in and out so it does not add too much under the circle skirt waistband. I mean the fabric is cut the smallest possible around the top and still getting it over my hips I have a very small waist compared to my hips. The skirt has an A line shape.
Sorry I can not explain this better my English is not good enough.

Here is a site selling petticoats they have pictures and some text about them maybe helpfull to look at. https://www.setrino.de/assets/s2dmain.html?https://www.setrino.de/

Annalai

[humblestumble]

Thanks for your advice, Annalai! Your English is very good! I understood everything :D

And thanks for the website :)

[Raegan]

I was actually just wondering about crinolines the other day. I want to get this beautiful cherry red 50's dress I found online for my cousin's wedding, but I didn't know if I should get a crinoline or not. I don't want to look like a bridesmaid and I thought maybe a crinoline would do that. What's the difference between a petticoat and crinoline exactly? Is there much? I was also wondering about everyday wear, can they pass as just a sort of casual thing? Where I live just wearing a skirt gets you wierd looks and a "What the heck are you so dressed up for?" Almost like they think you're trying to be better than them, not just dress with a little taste and class.

[Shimmy Sally]

Check your local fabric store for a petticoat pattern. All the pattern books have them under both the costume and vintage sections. It may not end up being any cheaper to make your own though.

[Rosie]

I was actually just wondering about crinolines the other day. I want to get this beautiful cherry red 50's dress I found online for my cousin's wedding, but I didn't know if I should get a crinoline or not. I don't want to look like a bridesmaid and I thought maybe a crinoline would do that. What's the difference between a petticoat and crinoline exactly? Is there much? I was also wondering about everyday wear, can they pass as just a sort of casual thing? Where I live just wearing a skirt gets you wierd looks and a "What the heck are you so dressed up for?" Almost like they think you're trying to be better than them, not just dress with a little taste and class.

Some people use petticoat and crinoline interchangeably (is that a word?) but, I think a crinoline is the stiffer, scratchier kind, think square dancing and big poofy circle skirts. You can get a smallish crinoline. I have one that is like "everyday wear" which is not too poofy. Then I have one that is a bit more dramatic. I want one that isn't too poofy but has lots of layers, very girly.

[humblestumble]

Yea, some people use them interchangeably, but I've found more 50's undergarments by searching for Petticoat rather than Crinoline. Usually, when I search for Crinoline I get links to renaissance re-enactment undergarments and dresses from the 1800s. Think big, long hoop skirts with ruffles at the bottom: They are even used under wedding dresses. Like this- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline. Petticoats are usually made out of tulle or netting and are usually much shorter. Although, I think back in the 1800s, they also wore longer petticoats over their crinolines, but not made out of tulle. They can actually be made of other materials like cotton and such. This might be why I still get links to older costumes when I search "Petticoat"

So, I'd say the term Petticoat would be the better term to use.:o And actually, the square dancing ones are also petticoats, just a stiffer, fuller kind, probably made out of netting.

There are different petticoats where some are less poofy than others that would probably be good for everyday wear. I know what you mean...here you also get looked at strangely in any kind of dress or skirt. Unless its a miniskirt.

There are definitely a wide variety of petticoats, some are super poofy, some are barely poofy, and some are very short (some "goth/lo lita" teens wear them with nothing over them). A lot of 50s outfits look better with petticoats when the bottom of the dress is a circle skirt.

Here's a cool site I finally found again with good pictures of petticoats. The prices are high though, lordy. http://www.laceys.ca/products.asp?cat=17&PARTNER=pettipond

[shindeco]

Thanks so much for posting this! I think I shall just try this and try to stop worrying so much about screwing it up. When it says to use Taffalon, does that just mean netting or tulle? And I wonder if I should add all this onto an A-line skirt made with something less scratchy.


I've taken a picture of the picture; I hope it works out. It actually looks to me more like a nylon taffeta or something. There's no reason why you couldn't make it with a tulle. Coarse netting would be even stiffer but mighty uncomfortable, I'd think.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f168/shindeco/petticoat2.jpg

[humblestumble]

Thanks so much for that! That's what I was imagining. I will keep this in my pattern files and dig it out when I get some more money and time :D

Yea, I've heard netting is very uncomfortable. Tulle feels okay, so I'll probably use that.

[Miss Dottie]

This is just the post I need to reinvigorate my vintage sewing.

I just bookmarked it.

Thanks again,

Miss Dottie!

[humblestumble]

No problem! Glad I could help :D

[humblestumble]

I don't know whethere this is the right place to put this post or not. And please excuse me if you already know of this site.

http://vintagesewing.info/index.html

This site is unbelievable! They have full vintage books online! With pictures even :D Very knowledgable place.

[Lauren]

Howdy all!

I know several of you are taking sewing lessons and I'd love to hear how they're going. I also thought it might be a good idea to start a thread to ask sewing related questions, so we can all throw our heads together to help!

So.. how's it going?

[K by the bay]

Hi Lauren. I asked this question in the Sewing Scraps thread but this seems like a better place for it. What is so desirable about vintage fabric? Was it made differently? More interesting prints? Just because it "was there"? I don't know much about sewing or fabric like you and some of the other ladies do but it sounds interesting. I've got boxes of my Mom's old fabric in the basement and it would be nice to know if it's great stuff or what. It's nice to see all the neat things you've made.

[Ccc]

For anyone who has sewn these, did you use satin, silk, cotton or some other type of fabric, and why did you choose that particular fabric?

Also, did you use a serger, or was a traditional machine fine?

Thanks for your ideas!

Ccc

[decodoll]

Hi Lauren. I asked this question in the Sewing Scraps thread but this seems like a better place for it. What is so desirable about vintage fabric? Was it made differently? More interesting prints? Just because it "was there"? I don't know much about sewing or fabric like you and some of the other ladies do but it sounds interesting. I've got boxes of my Mom's old fabric in the basement and it would be nice to know if it's great stuff or what. It's nice to see all the neat things you've made.

I love to sew with vintage fabrics when I can get it. You'll notice a bigger difference with some types more than others. One case where vintage far outshines modern is rayon. The rayon of the 1940's completely outshines what is being produced today in feel and the prints that were available. Jitterbugdoll and I learned an interesting tidbit of information on our shopping trip during her visit. Apparently most of the rayon in the 1940's was manufactured at a plant in New York. It burned down in, I think, he said late 1940's or early 1950's and the formula for that gorgeous, soft rayon that you only find pre-1950's was lost, and no one has ever been able to able to recreate it. So, when I see a good vintage rayon, I snap it up. :) It usually ends up costing less per yard that quality modern would anyway.

[Lady Day]

Hi Lauren. I asked this question in the Sewing Scraps thread but this seems like a better place for it. What is so desirable about vintage fabric? Was it made differently? More interesting prints? Just because it "was there"? I don't know much about sewing or fabric like you and some of the other ladies do but it sounds interesting. I've got boxes of my Mom's old fabric in the basement and it would be nice to know if it's great stuff or what. It's nice to see all the neat things you've made.


I tend not to sew with synthetic fabrics, but do sew with vintage fabric when I can. I love old cottons and wools and such and I find their weave to be of better quality. Also not as shiny. I also just like the look of a roughed up feel of the weave after its been around a long time.
You should try to avoid silks from the vintage era. Their treatment cna often deteriate the fabric, and whats the point in making something if it will go bad in a bit? :)

LD

[Lady Day]

For anyone who has sewn these, did you use satin, silk, cotton or some other type of fabric, and why did you choose that particular fabric?

Also, did you use a serger, or was a traditional machine fine?

Thanks for your ideas!

Ccc


My serger recently broke :( so I just use my normal machine now. Sergers are great because the seams will be less bulky. I also HATE raw edges, so I either use bias tape, or doubble fold the fabric if its not too thick. A good work around is to zig zag a seam on a raw edge. Its surger like :)

LD

[Rosie]

To have been sewing as long as I have, I'm still a very unexperienced seamstress. :o Actually, the few months that I've been here, I've learned a lot. I didn't even know what a serger was until Lady Day told me. lol Because of her, I'm becoming more of a fabric snob, choosing natural fabrics over "ooo, that's so cute". I actually think about the drape of a fabric once a garment will be finished and that has allowed me to cut down on a lot of "ewww, I hate this, let me throw it away."

I made then remade a dress out of vintage silk. I didn't know that was a no no. I have some other vintage fabrics that I just haven't used as of yet. This summer since I was home, I was supposed to use up all of my fabric which would have resulted in about 25 different outfits but, I've only done about 10 or so. :rolleyes:

[RetroModelSari]

I start my sewing lessons next week, but there is a question I already have: Is is really hard to make a pattern match your meassures if it is for example way to big? I realised most women in the 40s to 50s seemed to have really big hips compared to today so I have big problems to find a skirt with my meassures. Aslo their waists were way tinier so I´d have to make them bigger there. How does one do this? I tried around on a pattern and it just didn´t look right in the end.

[decodoll]

I think one can use vintage silks. You just want to pay attention and make sure the fabric is in good condition before you start. I'm just about finished with a dress from a 1940's sheer silk right now, and the fabric still feels very strong.

Sari, as to the patterns, perhaps German patterns were sized differently than American? Early patterns here have a smaller waist to hip ratio than modern. If you do end up having to alter a pattern, for a skirt, the easiest thing to do is get the pattern with the right hip measurement and alter the waist accordingly. Also, I would recommend using modern patterns while you are learning. They generally have much more detailed instructions.

[BettyValentine]

For anyone who has sewn these, did you use satin, silk, cotton or some other type of fabric, and why did you choose that particular fabric?

Also, did you use a serger, or was a traditional machine fine?


I made them out of silk charmeuse because that's what the designer told me to make them out of. They were nice and filmy. (Charmeuse is beautiful, but it can be a real pain to sew.)

I used a serger and a sewing machine. Charmeuse frays easily and I didn't want to ddeal with it, so I just serged the whole thing before I started.

No one here has asked, but I've seen a lot of new sewers who aren't really sure what is up with the serger, so I'll just clarify a few points in case anyone is unfamiliar with them. A serger *can* sew seams together, but it is not a replacement for a sewing machine. It is good for finishing raw edges, but there are a lot of things you need that a serger can't do. Also, if you use the serger to sew the seams together you must be *very* sure that it is fit properly, because opening up a serged seam to do alterations is a big pain. Personally, I just serge all the pattern pieces before sewing them together. That way I can alter to my little heart's content.

On the other hand, a sewing machine *can* do whatever a serger does, if it must. The serger trims and finishes raw edges. It is beautiful for that, but it is technically possible to do that without a serger. A zig-zag stitch will finish an edge, and then you can trim it with scissors. Another option is to use pinking shears which cut the edge into little triangles so that it won't fray. You could also do French seams, in which the edges are encased in the seam and aren't left out. Those are beautiful, but like all these options they're more work. My vintage pattern suggests pinking, french seams or ... I forget what it suggested for the third option. (Always read your pattern instructions all the way through. Sometimes they're wonky. Once I got to the very end of a pattern when it was almost entirely sewn together and saw that the pattern said to serge the garment. I was like, "Serge it *now*?")

Some overlocks also do "roll hems" for light fabrics like chiffon or charmeuse. I kind of hate the way machined roll hems look, so I usually just serge the edge normally and then roll hem by hand, but a lot of people love the finished look of a machined roll hem, and that will save you a lot of time.

[waingirl]

In May I finally finished 9 weeks, consisting of 3 sewing courses. Beginners (2 weeks), Sewing from a Pattern (5 wks), and The finishing touches (2 wks). I am in the middle of making a flowergirl dress for my girlfriends daughter, and when I am done with that, I will start on one of my vintage patterns. I am very excited to have an actual outfit made by little ol' me!!:eusa_clap

[Fleur De Guerre]

Are overlocking and serging the same thing?? I use a zig-zag stitch to do my edges, but I was wondering if more expensive sewing machine produce that proper edging effect...or can it only be achieved with a serger? They seem awfully expensive though, so I think I'll stick with the zig-zag if that's the case!

[BettyValentine]

Are overlocking and serging the same thing?? I use a zig-zag stitch to do my edges, but I was wondering if more expensive sewing machine produce that proper edging effect...or can it only be achieved with a serger? They seem awfully expensive though, so I think I'll stick with the zig-zag if that's the case!

Ehrr ... I had to go look that up. I am informed that technically a "serger" is an overlock with 5 thread cones, but when most people (including me) say "serger" they're referring to some kind of overlock machine. I call mine a serger even though it only has 3 cones. (I am cheap and I sew stretchy fabrics, so I bought the 3-cone.) Oh yeah, it's priceless for sewing stretchy things.

Someone else may know better than I, but I'm pretty sure that the fancy, "proper" edging effect can only be done with a serger. I've never seen a sewing machine with a blade attached. My sewing machine is pretty fancy, but it can't do a chain stitch, but maybe they make one that can.

I love mine because of the convenience, but there's no reason you can't sew without one if you don't want to pay for a serger. If you get really into it and do it for a really long time you might want one, but it's just another nice thing to have. I've been pining for an embroidery machine for years now.

xoxo
BV

[Lauren]

Ooh. I like this thread already :) There's really nothing I would add, but I'm so glad to see everyone's heads getting together! Yay!

[Rosie]

you know what I'd like to know? What stitches are appropriate for what?

My machine has 17 stitches, not counting the decorative ones but, I only use a few as I don't know what the rest of them are for really. [huh]

For example, I may sew something using fabric A and everything is fine but then, I'll use fabric B and the stitches start getting weird, bunching up, not sitting flat to the fabric. It isn't the tension because I'll go through the entire possibilities (for lack of a better word at the moment) of tension settings. Is it a needle thing? a thread thing?

Also, hope I'm not sounding dumb, what is this overlocking everyone is talking about? I don't do anything to the edges or seams of my clothing that won't be seen. Am I messing everything up? :( :confused:

[Miss Neecerie]

Ok...my addition..

Ideas for inexpensive dress forms? I need to start actually having something like me so i can do a better job fitting and perhaps not be frustrated when everything turns out not quite right....

so sources, ones to avoid? things to look for....? I have read the Threads article on them, but some personal experience would be good...

I am a size 14-16 currently and hoping to be a bit smaller but probably wouldn't be smaller then a 12 at best, based on bone structure....so i need a bit of adjustability....

[decodoll]

My sewing machine does a stitch that emulates an overlock. It won't ever be like a serged edge, but it works find for finishing things off. I attach a special foot (not the type that cuts the fabric too, although I could buy one) that catches the threads so that the thead actually go around the cut edge. I'd say it's just a step up from a regular zig zag.

hmm...Rosie, my first guess would have been tension too. You could try a different needle. I doubt it's the type of stitch, assuming you're just using a straight stitch. Also, could be you need to clean your machine. A while back I was having some problems with my stitches looking wonky, and it ended up being a piece of metallic thread wrapped around a part inside.

[colleency]

Also, hope I'm not sounding dumb, what is this overlocking everyone is talking about?

If you have a t-shirt, pick it up and look under the hem. There is usually a stitch that looks like a zigzag with a chain stitch at the edges. That's overlock.

[Rosie]

Thanks Colleen! Thanks decodoll, I guess I should clean my machine since other than dusting it I really don't do anything inside.

Neecerie, I found this: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

and was going to do it but you know, it's on the to do list.

[mysterygal]

just got my sewing machine not too long ago..love it! It has been a lot of fun learning how to even use the machine (I was a bit scared of it for awhile!). For a beginner, what would be a good first project to start? So far I've been mostly just practicing using the machine by making things for the kids like little purses and stuff for their dolls, but am wanting to move on to bigger and better things :D
Cross stitching; A friend of mine, who's also teaching me how to sew, said that she always uses the cross stitch or zig zag design so that the fabric does not fray.

[Lady Day]

Are overlocking and serging the same thing?? I use a zig-zag stitch to do my edges, but I was wondering if more expensive sewing machine produce that proper edging effect...or can it only be achieved with a serger? They seem awfully expensive though, so I think I'll stick with the zig-zag if that's the case!

Sergers/interlocking machines are getting cheaper all the time, and its showing. If you are going to be serious about sewing, stay above the $300 range, look for one that will allow you to adjust the with of a seam, and also get one that had 4-5 cone capacity. Youll have to check the spces of the machine to see what it offers, but generally these options offer you more flexability instead of just sewing a seam closed.

Just my 2 cents :)

LD

[Lady Day]

you know what I'd like to know? What stitches are appropriate for what?

My machine has 17 stitches, not counting the decorative ones but, I only use a few as I don't know what the rest of them are for really. [huh]

For example, I may sew something using fabric A and everything is fine but then, I'll use fabric B and the stitches start getting weird, bunching up, not sitting flat to the fabric. It isn't the tension because I'll go through the entire possibilities (for lack of a better word at the moment) of tension settings. Is it a needle thing? a thread thing?

Also, hope I'm not sounding dumb, what is this overlocking everyone is talking about? I don't do anything to the edges or seams of my clothing that won't be seen. Am I messing everything up? :( :confused:


lol
My machine has an obscene number of stitches as well! I use mainly 4 (the button hole options, the straigh stitch and the zig zag). Thats pretty much all you need. The others are great for decorating. I have a honeycomb stitch that I used for a jacket I made, it was nice, but such a complicated stitch, the machine kept chocking. I had to go nice and slow :)

Im just paranoid about raw edges. I dont want just one straight stitch to hold the garment together and the fabric as well, so I tend to overdo it. I doubble a straight stitch, fold over raw edges, princess seams, french seams, whatever. I just HATE raw edges :rage:

Maybe its a childhood trauma or something. :rolleyes:
LD

[imoldfashioned]

Ok...my addition..

Ideas for inexpensive dress forms? I need to start actually having something like me so i can do a better job fitting and perhaps not be frustrated when everything turns out not quite right....

so sources, ones to avoid? things to look for....? I have read the Threads article on them, but some personal experience would be good...

I am a size 14-16 currently and hoping to be a bit smaller but probably wouldn't be smaller then a 12 at best, based on bone structure....so i need a bit of adjustability....

Hi Miss Neecerie,

This article has some great low cost ideas for dress forms http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

Also, there are some good deals on ebay from time to time.

Good luck!

[colleency]

For a beginner, what would be a good first project to start?

How about a skirt? Skirts are easy to make. Go with a Simplicity pattern when they're on sale at Joann's for $1. Look for the package to say that it's a beginner or easy pattern. I'm not sure if Simplicity has it, but Vogue has "body shape" symbols on it as well, to help you decide if a pattern will look good on you.

[colleency]

If you are going to be serious about sewing, stay above the $300 range, look for one that will allow you to adjust the with of a seam, and also get one that had 4-5 cone capacity.

Or look at your local sewing store for a good used machine. I got a great used 4-cone serger for under $100.

[Lady Day]

Or look at your local sewing store for a good used machine. I got a great used 4-cone serger for under $100.


Awww LUCKY You!:eusa_clap

LD

[Honey Doll]

You know I have one of those sergers in the back of my sewing room closet and I have NEVER touched the darn thing. With my seams I press open or press over as the patterns calls and then do a big old zigzag over the seam edges. The vintage patterns I have seem to call for a hand finish or bias tape and I find doing the zig zag to be a pretty good modern compromise! I also like to do french seams in my skirts particularly if its an easy to fray fabric. For a french seam you sew wrong sides together first and then flip the seam to the inside so that the fabric is then right sides together and zip it thru the machine a second time.

[Rosie]

Okay, looking at the seams of bought clothes, I see what you all are talking about. I've never "finished" off an edge, I guess I'll start.

[MrBern]

Ok...my addition..

Ideas for inexpensive dress forms? I need to start actually having something like me so i can do a better job fitting and perhaps not be frustrated when everything turns out not quite right....

so sources, ones to avoid? things to look for....? I have read the Threads article on them, but some personal experience would be good...

I am a size 14-16 currently and hoping to be a bit smaller but probably wouldn't be smaller then a 12 at best, based on bone structure....so i need a bit of adjustability....

make one out of duct tape...seriously.
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp
http://www.taunton.com/threads/media/t00002_02.jpg

[BonnieJean]

I don't have a serger, just a plain old sewing machine that probably does about 10 different stitches and button holes. I never worried about finishing my seams before until I started on my 1930s satin evening dress. That fabric frays so bad! I went to my local Joan's store and picked up some nice pinking shears (I also had a coupon for 40% off--even better). Using my pinking shears is a real breeze and the fabric doesn't fray one bit. Now I can't wait until I have to "pink" a seam--it's so much fun! (picture BonnieJean roaming her home looking for things to "pink") My sister has a serger and just loves it. But I'm just as happy with my nice pair of pinking shears and I don't need electricity to use it!

Miss Neecerie,
I was fortunate to get my sister's old Twinfit dress form. Its not nearly as "shapely" in the waist and hip area as I am. I thought I needed to find a form that fit my body exactly--but there aren't any "pear-shaped" dress forms out there. In my research I did find out how I can "build up" the form to my exact measurements. So, if you can find a used dress form that's smaller than your size and/or can be adjusted--mine has dials on it, then you can create it to be your sewing double. If you want more info on how to make the form your size, just PM me and I'll send you the links. This may be putting the cart before the horse because you don't have your form yet, but put the word out with friends/family that you're looking for one; that's how I got mine. But my silly sister has misplaced a few of the feet for the stand, so its a table model for right now until I can figure something out.

[Tourbillion]

I believe the Twinfit forms are foam, right? You can customize one of them to your shape by making a cover for it. So lets say you bought a foam form that was 34" 26" 26" but you are 34" 24" 34". No problem, you just sew the cover to your exact dimensions and put it over the foam. Once you zip it up, it is your exact measurements.

I have a My Double (bought for half off, sometimes they go on sale), but since I have a large bust, I put an old bra on it and stuff it with socks, so then it fits tops just like me. It is also great for my ever expanding measurements. :rolleyes: It's only downside is that it is hard to pin in the cover.


Also, ladies (and gents) new to sewing, you must use an iron, or your garments won't look good. A pressing ham and seam roll help a lot too (in addition to the ironing board).

Sewing is an expensive hobby.

[BonnieJean]

My Twinfit is kind of plastic--definitely not foam. My sister really didn't use it much and I don't think she utilized the full benefit of it. She had gotten it when she sewed a bunch of bridesmaids dresses and the girls were all different sizes. I'm going to put an old bra on mine and stuff it, as well as some extra stuffing around the middle and hip area. Then I'll put one of my tops that fit me over that--like a camisole or lightweight t-shirt. I should be able to pin the form much better than what it is right now. I think this one is an older Twinfit form. But, beggars can't be choosy.

[Lady Day]

Also, ladies (and gents) new to sewing, you must use an iron, or your garments won't look good. A pressing ham and seam roll help a lot too (in addition to the ironing board).

Sewing is an expensive hobby.


True true true.

Ironing usta be against my religion ;) but I had to convert when I moved to the faith of sewing. [angel]

Oh, and it costs somethin aweful, but you get exactly what you want, and the fit will be great.

LD

[Tourbillion]

OK, well if the twinfit is plastic, then my instructions about the cover apply to the other kind of dress form, the foam ones.

Anyway, does anyone here use Olfa cutters and mats? I used to be a skeptic when my mom was using them, but now I am a convert. I mostly use my Gingher's for detail cutting now, I use the Olfa with a ruler or curved ruler for cutting--way easier!

[Fleur De Guerre]

True true true.

Ironing usta be against my religion ;) but I had to convert when I moved to the faith of sewing.

Oh, and it costs somethin aweful, but you get exactly what you want, and the fit will be great.

LD

Don't say that! I am starting sewing because I have no money to buy clothes! :(

And Ironing is definitely against my religion. I don't iron anything ever, because my mum doesn't either (we have all sorts of tricks to avoid it!) but I realised that for sewing it is essential.

Thanks for the responses about serging/overlocking. I think that when I have some more money I will definitely consider investing in one. But I'll make do for now. And I am soon going to get hold of a dress form for free from a friend. Hoorah!

[RetroModelSari]

You ladies sort of scare me cause I actually start it to save the money that goes into buying my daily wear and shooting clothes. I have to admit though that I realised that the cute knobs I saw and liked are allways the expensive ones.... Well... maybe I find a ebay-seller that sells 2 pounds knobs for 1 € or something ;)

I also plan to learn knitting and already saw a book with great instructions that I plan to get.

[BonnieJean]

You ladies sort of scare me cause I actually start it to save the money that goes into buying my daily wear and shooting clothes.

It is a way to save money, sort of. You'll be saving money from buying from on eBay and you'll own clothing that you probably wouldn't find anywhere else. If you have a local fabric store, a lot of them have sales flyers with coupons that you can sign up for (we have a Joann's). And sometimes you can find that elusive fabric in thrift stores and other places, just by keeping your eyes open. When you sew your own clothes you can make them to fit your body and can add your own unique details. I look at it as being my own personal fashion designer and eventually I'll have a one-of-a-kind wardrobe. I think my total cost for fabric and other notions for my 1930s satin evening gown was about $50 (I used a 40% coupon). Even the ready-made vintage-styled stores cost a lot more than that. When I was searching for a dress (before I decided to make mine) I couldn't find much for under $100 that I really liked. So, for me, I really am saving money.

I'm so glad to hear that some of you are learning to sew. I was afraid it was going to become a lost art like tatting and making your own bobbin lace. (I have a cousin that still does that.)

For you sewers out there, have you noticed a trend in the fabric stores? Regular bolts of assorted fabrics, like rayons and satins--real fabrics--are being taken over by quilt fabrics and rows and rows of fleece material. Not that there's anything wrong with quilt fabric and fleece, but its getting harder and harder to find a good selection of fabric for dresses. And the craft section is getting larger than the fabric section. At least this is what I have observed locally.

And like others have said, sewing is addicting because then you realize you need this and you need that in your sewing supplies--but oh, what a sweet addiction it is and it's calorie free! Maybe I could use my trips back and forth to the fabric store as part of my exercise routine?

Tourbillion,
I just checked my Twinfit dress form it is plastic with a thin layer of a flocked type of fabric over the top. (It isn't the top of the line dress form but I think it will work for my purposes.) I'm going to use quilt batting to add more fullness where needed. It should "stick" to the flocked fabric pretty well--at least that's what my instructions say, I haven't tried it yet.

[LizzieMaine]

The quilter/crafter-vs.-dressmaker thing's been going on for quite a while around here. We've had an independent fabric store in town for years and years that used to be a great place for general sewing supplies, but about five years ago they converted to all-quilting-all-the-time, and that was that. I think the emphasis is on quilting as a social activity -- something you can get together and do as a group, rather than the sort of solitary pursuit that sewing clothes can be.

Some of the lighter-weight quilting cottons are actually quite good for sewing vintage repro dresses -- and if you cruise the remnant racks you can often find good yardage fairly cheap. I'm a regular at the $2-$4 tables, and most of the dresses I make in everyday late-30s-early-40s styles will cost me less than $20 for fabric and notions. Of course, more complex projects -- suits, evening dresses, more elegant fabrics -- are going to cost more, but it's possible to sew good practical everyday vintage fairly inexpensively if you're a careful shopper.

[BonnieJean]

Thanks, LizzieMaine, for the suggestion to use those quilting fabrics. I had thought that they would be too lightweight for a dress, so I'll have to give them a try. I can see them used for something like a housedress. But I have to admit I'm a big rayon fan and prefer that for dresses and skirts.

[Fleur De Guerre]

Now call me thick, but I only recently realised that what we call "viscose" is actually the same as rayon. I always thought viscose was horrible, shrinky stuff, but it seems to have a lot of fans here! I know this is a thread about sewing, but I have a pair of vintagey linen/viscose mix sailor type pants and I am scared to wash them in case they shrink (and so haven't actually worn them!). They do say dry-clean only, but my mum often never bothers with that, and washes everything. And thus has shrinkage mishaps from time to time. How do you girls care for rayon and rayon mixes?

[BonnieJean]

I use a product called Dryel and "dry clean" my rayon things in the dryer. I don't know if you have something similar where you live. But my mom who grew up in the "Golden Age of Rayon" said her mom used to just gently wash them and then hang them up to dry. Some of the rayon (at least today's rayon) can be a little forgiving. I saw a beautiful rayon dress at the thrift store, but it obviously had been washed in a washing machine and then dried in the dryer because of all the wrinkles. It was pretty sad looking. I bought it, took it home and gently pressed it and it came out looking beautiful.

[CherryRed]

Ok...my addition..

Ideas for inexpensive dress forms? I need to start actually having something like me so i can do a better job fitting and perhaps not be frustrated when everything turns out not quite right....

so sources, ones to avoid? things to look for....? I have read the Threads article on them, but some personal experience would be good...

I am a size 14-16 currently and hoping to be a bit smaller but probably wouldn't be smaller then a 12 at best, based on bone structure....so i need a bit of adjustability....

I am in the exact position as you Miss Neecerie. I am the same size and am trying to get back to a 10/12. I have lost 10lbs and 2" so far in my waist. There are so many cute dresses in the 28-30 waist size on ebay it drives me nuts.
I am looking for a dress form too, and saw the duck tape info online last week. I'm really not fond of that since it tells you it isn't as accurate as a purchased form.
I really like the look of the Uniquely You form but it isn't adjustable so I am still searching for a good adjustable.
If there is anyone else that has recomendations on a brand (not super expensive) please post!!

[Lauren]

I don't really think they're the best thing ever, but I got adjustable dress forms from joann.com when there were 40% off coupons. I think it put them at about $100.

As far as sewing being expensive- it is if you're going to make it out of quality materials. But you gotta think of it this way- you're paying for a hobby and a wardrobe. And even with better fabrics it's still much cheaper than buying reproduction vintage dresses- and in my opinion better for everyday wear than authentic vintage because it's new and the life span will be longer- and you don't have to worry about stains, tears, etc- because hey! you made it and can make another! Not like that one of a kind authentic vintage dress.

When it gets being really expensive is when you get into stockpiling fabrics and patterns- it gets to be a very expensive addiction.

Here's what I do to cut my sewing costs:

*Sign up for Joann and Hancock newsletters and browse them for the 40% off clearance fabric sales. You often end up getting fabrics with a vintage feel (including those cute cotton feedsack prints) from $1-$3 a yard. They also regularly have 40% off coupons for one cut of fabric or a notion.

*Browse newspapers for Estate Sales on Fri-Sun. Lots of old ladies sewed and never threw out their notions. It's a great place to pick up bags of zippers, bias tape, rick rack, hooks and eyes, and needles and pins on the cheap! Often there's also bags of fabric or yardage, and sometimes patterns. And don't discount it if it looks all crafty- sometimes the same notions carry on into dollmaking and quilting :)

*Make a seasonal jaunt to your local discount fabric shop or garment district. I know I'm spoiled because I live within driving distance to the one in Los Angeles. You can get silks from $4-15 a yard- what you pay for polyesters at Joann! There's dollar stores, and a personal favourite of Neecerie and mine- the by the pound store in the Attic at Michael Levines.

*Buy patterns when they're discounted at Joann or in lots on Ebay. Sometimes you get some in vintage lots that are missing pieces, but even then it ends up being cheaper than buying individual patterns. You just have to have the patience to count through the pieces yourself.

*On thing I NEVER skimp on is thread. Gutermann thread is my favorite. You'll be amazed at the difference in your sewing and your machine's performance if you use good thread and oil your machine regularly. Your local repair shop will sell the oil and show you how to oil it. Oh, and make sure you change your needles regularly. Sharps for thin fabric, universal for regular, and heavyweight or strong for denim and wool.

[BettyValentine]

I don't like using adjustable dress forms. I just find them really unpleasant to drape with. I'm told you can get them cheaply, though. I don't know; I was looking at Joann's and I figured that I could get one for 200 including shipping (There is not a Joann's near me), but I think I could get a real form for about $500, and I'd really rather save for something permanent that I can use forever. (Pretty much the same way I feel about dropping $40 on Ginghers v. $10 for craft scissors).
I do prefer my duct tape form to the adjustable ones. It matches my dimensions and is easier to pin on. Neither look good in the apartment, but the duct tape form will hold me over until I can manage to acquire a real one.

If you're a student you should visit your school's costume shop. They can order Ginghers at half price. (Also, don't ever touch another sewer's scissors without asking first. They go *crazy*.)

Sewing is *really* expensive, but Lauren is absolutely right about it. It is a hobby *and* a working wardrobe. It can also be really addictive.

[Lauren]

I'm in agreement on the adjustabe forms. I spent a fortune on it, but my Wolf form was the best investment I ever made for drafting my own patterns.

[mysterygal]

make one out of duct tape...seriously.
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp
http://www.taunton.com/threads/media/t00002_02.jpg
I'd hate to think how it feels when it's got to come off :eek: lol

[BettyValentine]

I'm in agreement on the adjustabe forms. I spent a fortune on it, but my Wolf form was the best investment I ever made for drafting my own patterns.

:eek: You just said Wolf! I'm so envious. What model did you get? Did you order it new or were you lucky enough to find one used. (Oh wow. I just went all raving fangirl, didn't I?)

I'm really not kidding. I was thinking about dress forms when I went to bed and last night I dreamed that someone gave me a full-body Wolf form. I almost cried when I woke up this morning and realized it was a dream.

Apparently it is literally my dream to have a Wolf form someday.

[Jivin4Java]

:offtopic: Has anyone purchased vintage fabric from www.rickrack.com? They seem to have some nice prints, but those prices scare me away. :mad: Are those prices accurate or at least in the ball park for vintage fabric?

~Jenn~

[CherryRed]

Have you tried ebay? I have gotten some great deals on vintage fabric that way and have paid much less per yard. They do have cute prints.
Also check out http://equilter.com/
They have wonderful reproduction prints and a nicer price.

[Lauren]

:eek: You just said Wolf! I'm so envious. What model did you get? Did you order it new or were you lucky enough to find one used. (Oh wow. I just went all raving fangirl, didn't I?)

I'm really not kidding. I was thinking about dress forms when I went to bed and last night I dreamed that someone gave me a full-body Wolf form. I almost cried when I woke up this morning and realized it was a dream.

Apparently it is literally my dream to have a Wolf form someday.

I got the evening model- the one designed for weddings and eveningwear. It was one of the first things I ordered when I started designing- and even though my bridal career wasn't that successful I still have the form which is nice because most of what I drape is still eveningwear anyway :D

The only thing that sucks is that it is in a size too big for me- I wanted a somewhat standard size so I could find models- so now when I drape I then have to grade them to my size!

[Lady Day]

:offtopic: Has anyone purchased vintage fabric from www.rickrack.com? They seem to have some nice prints, but those prices scare me away. :mad: Are those prices accurate or at least in the ball park for vintage fabric?

~Jenn~


I wanted to, but their prices are just out of this world. There are some GREAT discount fabric stores here in the citay, and I usually go to those. The thing is, most vintage dress patterns use a min of 3-4 yards of fabric, (crazzzzy!) so there goes an easy $100 for the fabric and notions if you purchace from that site! Altho I might splurge one day :rolleyes:

Does anyone here sew with acrylic, you know, the tofu of synthetic fabric? It can mimic anything, but breathability :) What was your success with it? Any recomendations? Or should I just stick with cottons and such (that I love)?

LD

[Jivin4Java]

Have you tried ebay? I have gotten some great deals on vintage fabric that way and have paid much less per yard. They do have cute prints.
Also check out http://equilter.com/
They have wonderful reproduction prints and a nicer price.

Thanks for that link! I have spent the last hour or so looking at all the prints. Lots to look at...need more time and coffee to keep me going.:eusa_doh:

[MrBern]

I'd hate to think how it feels when it's got to come off :eek: lol

LOL , you get a form & a reprieve from waxing!

Seriously, I forget where I first saw this, but there are several sites showing gals who made a duct tape form.
Heres another link showing most of the process
http://www.europa.com/~qzanny/DuctTapeForm/DuctTapeForm.html
http://www.europa.com/~qzanny/DuctTapeForm/image0GC.JPGhttp://www.europa.com/~qzanny/DuctTapeForm/imageTB7.JPGhttp://www.europa.com/~qzanny/DuctTapeForm/imageH3R.JPG

[Snookie]

I'd hate to think how it feels when it's got to come off :eek: lol

Heehee! It actually feels great when you take it off, b/c you can BREATHE again! My husband helped me make a duct tape form last fall, and it turned out decently. The great things are the price and being able to easily make a new one if you change size. I never did manage to make a stand for it though!

Make sure you're feeling up to standing still for 2-3 hours before starting on this project. Or not being as picky as me about the fit (your body can get compressed out of shape while the tape's going on if you're not careful.)

[waingirl]

Those pictures of duct tape remind me of the time I made my own corset. (Fancy corset for New Years Eve, with a pencel skirt, not waist training corset) There were instructions online on how to make your own pattern, by wrapping duct tape all around your waist and chest area. Then cut it off and cut the "duct corset" in half, pick one half to use as the pattern, then cut that into the desired pieces. It turned out great and fit like a glove.

[CherryRed]

Heehee! It actually feels great when you take it off, b/c you can BREATHE again! My husband helped me make a duct tape form last fall, and it turned out decently. The great things are the price and being able to easily make a new one if you change size. I never did manage to make a stand for it though!

Make sure you're feeling up to standing still for 2-3 hours before starting on this project. Or not being as picky as me about the fit (your body can get compressed out of shape while the tape's going on if you're not careful.)

If I can convince my DH to help me that long I may give this a try. I just hate buying one until I am closer to the size I want to be, and right now I size at the low end of a medium so it would be useless to buy that if I don't stay that size.
Thanks for the feedback from those who have actually made this thing.:)

[BettyValentine]

My fiance and I did mine awhile ago. He just has to be careful not to cut the bra off while cutting off the form. I find it works best if you go over the hips and below the rear end.

We stuck that one on a big length of PVC pipe to make a stand for it, but we never did find out how to get htat to stand up. We should have just used a bigger pvc tube and stuck it in an xmas tree stand, I think.

[Rosie]

Ikea has a great 10 dollar lamp, you have to go to the store to get it, not available online. I bought the lamp years ago and when I came across the duct tape form I thought the lamp base would make a great stand but haven't made the form as of yet.

[CherryRed]

My fiance and I did mine awhile ago. He just has to be careful not to cut the bra off while cutting off the form. I find it works best if you go over the hips and below the rear end.

We stuck that one on a big length of PVC pipe to make a stand for it, but we never did find out how to get htat to stand up. We should have just used a bigger pvc tube and stuck it in an xmas tree stand, I think.

Did you stuff the inside of it to keep it firm? If so what did you use?
I think I will wear my Rago all in one under it and have him cut from the bottom up so he doesn't cut into it.

[BettyValentine]

Did you stuff the inside of it to keep it firm? If so what did you use?
I think I will wear my Rago all in one under it and have him cut from the bottom up so he doesn't cut into it.

We stuffed it with polyester fiberfill. We got huge bags of it very cheaply at Dan & Whits (Weird place near my college. It carried everything from cattle feed to deer salt licks to PVC to .. yeah, everything.) It seems weirdly expensive now, though. $10 a bag? I don't know why it's that expensive around here. We used a lot and just crammed as much as we could into the shell.

It gets *really* hot while you're being wrapped.

[Honey Doll]

That duct tape form has got to be the coolest thing I've seen online in a while! Thanks so much for sharing all this great info!

[Honey Doll]

I am so intrigued by this one. I've looked at the outline instructions that are on-line and what I can't tell is this-- when you are all taped up, do you have to let it set up for some period of time, or can you just tape up and cut yourself right out again?

Thanks-- Honey Doll

[BettyValentine]

I am so intrigued by this one. I've looked at the outline instructions that are on-line and what I can't tell is this-- when you are all taped up, do you have to let it set up for some period of time, or can you just tape up and cut yourself right out again?


As soon as you're done wrapping everything you just cut it off the person stuck inside. (Though leaving it on and saying "It has to sit for awhile" would be possibly the cruelest prank in the entire world).


BV

[Honey Doll]

As soon as you're done wrapping everything you just cut it off the person stuck inside. (Though leaving it on and saying "It has to sit for awhile" would be possibly the cruelest prank in the entire world).


BV

Ha, Ha! I feel just a bit silly for asking now...:eusa_doh:

Honey Doll

[Snookie]

Ha, Ha! I feel just a bit silly for asking now...:eusa_doh:

Honey Doll

No, the instructions are confusing! They talk about a couple different kinds, and it's the plaster types that have to "set".

The fiberfill is really expensive, I thought so too. My friend suggested waiting until you need new pillows, and cutting open the old ones for the batting. I thought my husband would kill me when I suggested saving dryer lint in giant bags for this project. He has no vision...

[Snookie]

Personally, I just serge all the pattern pieces before sewing them together. That way I can alter to my little heart's content.

I was just about to ask if anyone else does this! I used to overlock seams after sewing them, but I like being able to press seams open. It looks so much sharper than pressed to the side. And I like doing the whole thing at once, then putting the machine away, rather than moving back and forth constantly.

[ricki]

We made the duct tape dress form for one of my friends a few years ago. We filled it with some kind of expanding foam. (A little of that stuff goes a long way.) After reading this thread, I want to make one for me.

[Lady Day]

Ladies!
Simplicity 3967
SUPERCUTE, its like a smock dress! I hope to have it done by tomorrow. Its only 4 peices!

Vogue 7650-40c cute sleveless shirt with a lovely collar.

Vogue 6034 cape. Nuff said :)

Advance 8761 and 8230

And a LOVELY American Designer's Pattern #1116 a cute dress.

Pics to be posted in the show us what you made thread soon! :)

LD

[CherryRed]

The fiberfill is really expensive, I thought so too. My friend suggested waiting until you need new pillows, and cutting open the old ones for the batting. I thought my husband would kill me when I suggested saving dryer lint in giant bags for this project. He has no vision...

That's a great idea! I just got new pillows and was going to throw out the old ones. Perfect!:eusa_clap

[Snookie]

We made the duct tape dress form for one of my friends a few years ago. We filled it with some kind of expanding foam. (A little of that stuff goes a long way.) After reading this thread, I want to make one for me.


ooh, that sounds fun too. Do you remember what it was? Was it pinable when you were done, or was it hard?

[ricki]

ooh, that sounds fun too. Do you remember what it was? Was it pinable when you were done, or was it hard?
I think it was pinnable, but since I haven't used the dress form myself I can't be sure.

[Lauren]

If we missed anyone's question just raise your hand ;)

Yay for new patterns Lady Day!

I personally have never tried the duct tape form but my ex boyfriend's grandma did and she said it worked. The only thing I can think of is that you'd have too be careful to not bulk the tape up too much of the fit would be off... already would be probably ease included with the weight of the t shirt and the tape.

[K by the bay]

Thanks for your fabric input, Decodoll and LD. Sounds like a new mission for the Indiana Joneses out there. "Finders of the Lost Fabric Formula". And BV is right about the scissors. My Mom once caught a friend of my dad using her good scissors to cut open a pizza box.:eek:

[RetroModelSari]

I followed the advice about taking rather modern patterns and here is what I&#180;ll try when my sewing course for fall-fashion starts...

This one but with blue fabric and a white bow. Maybe I even use the fabric with the polka-dots.
http://www.burdamode.com/images/repos/1/000/001/392/000001392355

This dress. I&#180;m not sure about what colour to take for it, but I&#180;ll surely add some details to make it look more 40s/50s
http://www.burdamode.com/images/repos/1/000/001/374/000001374254

This cape but in a longer version. Maybe even with a skirt to match ;)
http://www.burdamode.com/images/repos/1/000/001/392/000001392337

By the beginning of November or the middle of it I might have my first piece finished to present it in "The things I made" thread. Next week we do a pillow for training. I realised I have no problems to sew quiet straight, but I&#180;m a little scared of actually sew something real now... But I&#180;ll overcome it cause I long so much for making pretty stuff ;-)

[humblestumble]

I actually have a question about sewing in a sleeve cap, the easing part is bugging me. Everytime I try to sew it in, the dang thing puckers in the seam. Tips? Also... how do I got about adding ease when the shirt fits the man like a sloper? Its the biggest and coolest retro looking pattern I could find. And he has trouble finding shirts that fit. I thought about using my Lutterloh system to make a shirt that would fit him better and using the design attributes from the McCall's pattern and adding them? Would that work?[huh]

Also, there's this terrific site with old books published online all about sewing. I love them http://vintagesewing.info/

I tried the duct tape form, but my form came out about an inch around bigger than me on my waist and hips, and smaller in the bust area. I have since changed measurements since then as well, so it's useless to me now. I've gotten thinner.

[Snookie]

I actually have a question about sewing in a sleeve cap, the easing part is bugging me. Everytime I try to sew it in, the dang thing puckers in the seam. Tips? Also... how do I got about adding ease when the shirt fits the man like a sloper? Its the biggest and coolest retro looking pattern I could find. And he has trouble finding shirts that fit. I thought about using my Lutterloh system to make a shirt that would fit him better and using the design attributes from the McCall's pattern and adding them? Would that work?[huh]

Re: sleeve cap: are you sewing a couple rows of easestitching to the cap of the sleeve before putting the sleeve and the shirt together? An easestitch is done just like a gathering stitch, but since they serve different purposes they get different names.

How To: set your machine on its longest stitch length. Sew two rows of easestitching in the seam allowance of the sleeve cap, being careful not to cross them and not to backstitch(if you have 5/8" SA, sew at 1/4" and 1/2", for example). Leave the thread tails long. Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather up the ease, and pin sleeve to armhole, being careful to distribute the ease and avoid puckers. Slightly more ease should be at the back of the armhole, because your deltoid needs more room, and no ease under the arm.

Re:sizing. I don't know anything about the Lutterloh system, but it sounds like it might work. Men's shirts are pretty similar to each other. You could also "slash and spread": trace a copy of the pattern, draw horizonal and vertical lines across it and cut apart. Spread the pieces apart the amount you want to increase, and tape to a new piece of paper. You probably want to add more girth than length, so make more vertical lines (from shoulder to hem). Maybe 3-4 total, across the shirt (you can't add it to the side seam or you'll end up with giant armholes). 1-2 horizonal should do it. You'll also have to adjust the sleeve and collar if you make the armhole/neck bigger.

I can scan a diagram if my explanation is too confusing.

[humblestumble]

Hey thanks :) I just bought some books on fitting, actually 3 of them I believe. I hope those help me. Sewing the sleeve doesn't seem too difficult now, I have a few things to play around with. And actually, when I did the basting rows, I was sewing the two layers of fabric together as I did them, so that didn't quite work...I will try the right way soon - on just the sleeve cap, and then try sewing that to the armhole. I will see if that works. I also read something about using a serger and the differential feed to ease it, so I might try that and also the crowding technique once more. I'm sure I'll get it with practice. Thanks so much for your input!

And I understand about the slash and spread thing. My only issue with that is that I believe the shoulder width is fine on him, but the armhole is too small and it needs more ease, so I guess I might make his shirt more of a bell shape than a rectangle by slashing and pivoting, I suppose? Then, maybe making the armhole deeper, possibly using an existing shirt.

If all else fails, I'm going to try the Lutterloh system and add design features (well, try to anyway). However, I really am interested in learning couture techniques, alteration and pattern adjustment. I don't like shortcuts, although they might make me feel better. I think that doing things the more difficult ways will help me in the long run.

[RaasAlHayya]

Have any of you ladies used the Wild Ginger patternmaking software? I have generated a couple of patterns from it, but haven't actually had time to get any farther than that. Anyone who has tried it, what did you think of it?

--Leslie

[Snookie]

And I understand about the slash and spread thing. My only issue with that is that I believe the shoulder width is fine on him, but the armhole is too small and it needs more ease, so I guess I might make his shirt more of a bell shape than a rectangle by slashing and pivoting, I suppose? Then, maybe making the armhole deeper, possibly using an existing shirt.

If all else fails, I'm going to try the Lutterloh system and add design features (well, try to anyway). However, I really am interested in learning couture techniques, alteration and pattern adjustment. I don't like shortcuts, although they might make me feel better. I think that doing things the more difficult ways will help me in the long run.

If the shirt is just slightly too small and you need bigger armholes, try drawing a line from the armhole to the hem and open it the whole way (don't forget to do the front AND the back!). You could maybe get away with opening it as much as 3/4"? Your total armhole increase would be 1.5", and the total garment increase would be 3". When you spread, don't pivot, but open it the same amount from top to bottom (no bell). You'll have to change the sleeve, too; in my example you have to add 1.5" to the sleeve cap. AACK! Sounds complicated! Your guy is lucky, that you're so determined!

[Jivin4Java]

I have officially started my FASH10 Clothing Construction 1 class at Mt. SAC. Woo Hoo!! :eusa_clap

[humblestumble]

Have any of you ladies used the Wild Ginger patternmaking software? I have generated a couple of patterns from it, but haven't actually had time to get any farther than that. Anyone who has tried it, what did you think of it?

--Leslie

Have not tried it, but I have heard rave reviews from a friend who has tested a ton of patternmaking software, and she swears by Wild Ginger. I have the free program and have printed something out, but have not made anything. I've heard it is marvelous. My friend says it's the best out there.

[Lady Day]

I have officially started my FASH10 Clothing Construction 1 class at Mt. SAC. Woo Hoo!! :eusa_clap


Yay!
Goooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Team! Oh, wait. Gooooooo JJ!

LD :D

[humblestumble]

If the shirt is just slightly too small and you need bigger armholes, try drawing a line from the armhole to the hem and open it the whole way (don't forget to do the front AND the back!). You could maybe get away with opening it as much as 3/4"? Your total armhole increase would be 1.5", and the total garment increase would be 3". When you spread, don't pivot, but open it the same amount from top to bottom (no bell). You'll have to change the sleeve, too; in my example you have to add 1.5" to the sleeve cap. AACK! Sounds complicated! Your guy is lucky, that you're so determined!

No, it's not slightly too small, it's pretty much hugging him... just as a sloper fits us ladies (with no walking ease, or ease at all really). The shoulder part is fine on him, but everything else seems way off. About 6 inches, because this is supposed to be a bowling shirt, or an aloha shirt - whatever he decides he wants me to make in the end. Or whatever he wants. After I get done with it, I really want to make him more. He even wants to learn how to sew. I just started teaching him.

Thanks muchly for the information you've given me. No worries, I understand what you are saying. Although I haven't sewn much, I've read a lot. I just haven't put all of my knowledge to good use, but that's because I want to learn everything I can before I really get down to the nitty gritty.

I'm also going to write Threads Magazine and hope that they include info on altering armhole and ease in their upcoming issues.

I feel like I have to give back to my boyfriend. He's done so much for me and has supported me through thick and thin. He's also been so kind as to supply me with most of my crafty supplies (and has been with me since the beginning - very enthusiastically!). And for all the hell I put him through ( which really isn't much ) and the fact that I don't have a lot of money really makes me want to do this for him. I also feel for him that he can't find any shirt that seriously fits him well. Not only that, but he loves the 50s style too, and I'd like to incorporate that into both our wardrobes.

My biggest deal now is really wanting to know how to add ease without compromising the fit of the garment due to where the shoulder seam end is supposed to sit. As of right now, it sits in the correct place, but I'm afraid that if I increase by slashing and spreading the pattern all the way through it, that I am going to end up with a shoulder seam that extends onto his bicep.

I can't wait til I get past all this! Fitting and adjusting is so frustrating, and it just seems like it should be so easy with a simple, loose fitting shirt.

[RaasAlHayya]

HumbleStumble wrote:

"Have not tried it, but I have heard rave reviews from a friend who has tested a ton of patternmaking software, and she swears by Wild Ginger. I have the free program and have printed something out, but have not made anything. I've heard it is marvelous. My friend says it's the best out there."


Earlier this year, I had to replace my computer and didn't bother downloading the software again until recently when I had time to start sewing again. Then I realized I had lost my activation key. Karen at Wild Ginger sent me another one so I wouldn't have to pay the $190 again. I appreciated that, and will recommend them for their customer service.

Now I need to get my husband to help me take my measurements again. :eusa_doh:

--Leslie

[Snookie]

humblestumble, you're very sweet!

Now, down to the nitty gritty. I'm not as familiar with 50's shirts, but I think it's okay to have the shoulder seam extend past the shoulder, especially for a casual shirt. And if you open it, you can add those extra inches. Does he have a good shirt similar in style? Have him try it on for a fresh visual of how it looks, then measure the shirt. Figure out how long the shoulder is on the good shirt, measure the armhole to get the circumference, etc.

If the pattern you have is already hanging past his shoulder, but the rest is too tight, maybe you should slash-n-spread that bell shape.

[humblestumble]

humblestumble, you're very sweet!

Now, down to the nitty gritty. I'm not as familiar with 50's shirts, but I think it's okay to have the shoulder seam extend past the shoulder, especially for a casual shirt. And if you open it, you can add those extra inches. Does he have a good shirt similar in style? Have him try it on for a fresh visual of how it looks, then measure the shirt. Figure out how long the shoulder is on the good shirt, measure the armhole to get the circumference, etc.

If the pattern you have is already hanging past his shoulder, but the rest is too tight, maybe you should slash-n-spread that bell shape.


Thanks :D

I actually really love the 40s as well as the 50s, but my boyfriend really leans towards the 50s. I personally prefer the more tailored look of the 40s, but hey, I'm just glad he likes more of the 50s now instead of the 80s (he was really into hair metal - I don't care so much for that, haha)

Anyway, I think you are right. The shoulder seam does extend a little bit past his shoulder, just like on the pattern envelope. I guess I could always try and slash and spread anyway - it is supposed to be the practice garment... I'm just so scared of failure without hands on help.

He doesn't actually have a shirt in a similar style to this one, but he does have some button downs that fit him alright, but they still don't fit him REALLY well. I know somewhat how to make a pattern from ready made clothes too, so I may try measuring its seams and such. Especially the size of those armholes.

I also posted several other places on the internet to get different views on the issues - I'm waiting on feedback now. I also wrote to Threads magazine so that maybe they will answer my question. *cross fingers* And once I get a bit more money I may take an online class or two on making my own patterns and fitting readymade patterns.

Thanks again for your help, and your fast response! Means a lot :)

RaasAlHayya, sounds like they have great customer service! I'll send you a link of something Rostitchery made with WildGinger - I think it's quite amazing. http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/2006/07/yes_i_did_it.html

[RaasAlHayya]

HumbleStumble wrote:

"RaasAlHayya, sounds like they have great customer service! I'll send you a link of something Rostitchery made with WildGinger - I think it's quite amazing. http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitcher..._i_did_it.html"

That's wonderful...and the dress is really cute! Now I want to make dresses for all my squeeze bottles. :p

--Leslie

[glamgirl]

Thanks Colleen! Thanks decodoll, I guess I should clean my machine since other than dusting it I really don't do anything inside.

Neecerie, I found this: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

and was going to do it but you know, it's on the to do list.

Rosie, that's an excellent thread. Thanks for adding it (I've only just come across it as am very new to the board). That's one of my biggest problems when sewing for myself and now you've given us all the perfect answer. Thanks again:eusa_clap

[BettyValentine]

Eek. I could totally just keel over and die. I got a Wolf form in exactly my size for $100 off of craigslist. I was going to get it re-covered, but it turns out it doesn't need it.

I've noticed a lot of dress forms on the New York craigslist -- on average it seems that a new form is posted daily, I just got lucky and the right size came up -- but there are some on craigslist for other places too.


BV

[Lauren]

QUICK! Buy it!!!

[BettyValentine]

QUICK! Buy it!!!

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

BV - nothing if not melodramatic. :p

[Lauren]

I know! They're the best thing EVER! Just having one around does fuel creativity. As silly as it is, my heart gets warmed every time I see mine :)

What a steal! I can't believe you got one so inexpensively. Congrats!

[Rosie]

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

BV - nothing if not melodramatic. :p


Ha, you literally made me laugh out loud. Everyone on this floor will think I'm nuts. *all the new teachers* (It's that weird vintage wearing nut who laughs to herself at weird times throughout the day, better steer clear of her).lol

[Rosie]

So ladies, after seeing you all sew your little hearts away, I have been inspired to try my first coat. I'm going to do a '50s style swing coat and I've selected a very heavy sateen black with white polka dot fabric so basically, HELP!!!! Any and all tips will be greatly appreciated.

[Lady Day]

Swing coats are pretty easy. Jist make sure it lays flat in the front, and triangles out in the back at the shoulders. It is kind of like a circle skirt in the back (but not nearly that much circle), so make sure that your hem is good and even.

Good luck Rosie, and you better post pics wearing it :D

LD

[Rosie]

That's what I figured, kind of like the circle skirt in back part. I made a house dress not long ago using that method and figured I would start that way. My biggest fear are the sleeves, since I avoid them like the plague and the buttons. I'm terrified of buttons! I thought I might use hooks instead since they seem a bit less scary, unless I find some big gaudy white plastic rounded buttons then, I may have to try it out.

[BonnieJean]

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

OK, I was happy with my freebie Twinfit form, but now I want a Wolf!:cry: And I haven't even used my form yet. I guess its something to aspire to. Don't know if people around here even know what a Wolf form is. I had to describe my dress form when I was excited to get mine. Most people in the Midwest think a Wolf form is some type of half-breed 4-legged critter that howls in the night! Not of lot of serious sewers around here.:(
I'm happy for your great find!

[BettyValentine]

OK, I was happy with my freebie Twinfit form, but now I want a Wolf!:cry: And I haven't even used my form yet. I guess its something to aspire to. Don't know if people around here even know what a Wolf form is. I had to describe my dress form when I was excited to get mine. Most people in the Midwest think a Wolf form is some type of half-breed 4-legged critter that howls in the night! Not of lot of serious sewers around here.:(
I'm happy for your great find!

Thanks! I'm still really excited about it. ^_^

I've heard wonderful things about the Twinfit forms! One of my friends just got one from her husband and family as an anniversary present. She totally cried.

I'm told that the adjustable forms are really good for if you're sewing for other people of varying sizes and shapes. My friends swear by their Dritz My Double forms, and they're much more advanced sewers than I. I think I just got used to pinning on the Wolf & Global ones because I learned to sew in a costume shop.

BV- Also they look pretty standing in the corner. ^_^

[Rosie]

I'm working on this dress: http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/RoseMeditative/f9_1_b.jpg

You see the part where the breast meets the waist and the rest of the dress? I'm having a hard time getting that area to come together. I have the "shirt" part of the dress complete but, under the breast, where the darts are makes that area of the dress smaller than the waist area so, I'm having a hard time making the two meet without creating more darts in the "skirt" area. Should I have used a stretchier material? I'm very unhappy now. :(

[Lady Day]

Well it looks like their is a bodice/ empire waist cut thing going on there. Look at the blue dress I did earlier in the thread, its cut the same way. Via the pattern I used, that area under the bust is cupped like a spoon, then gathered. It is then attached to the waist cut and presto, boob coverage :)


LD

[Rosie]

Thanks LD! I *think* I understand what you are saying. I'll try pinning it first to see what happens.

[glamgirl]

I'm so excited. I just bought my first sewing machine last night on Ebay. It's a Brother (not sure if that's just an AS company or not), it's brand new, 37 stitches, one step button holing, etc etc etc. I don't have it yet but I've already bought some patterns for a couple of great little vintage-inspired outfits. This is so exciting. Mum was thrilled when I told her. We used to do a lot of sewing together when I still lived at home. Now I just have to try and remember it all. I found a really good book that goes through all the basics too which will be so helpful. Only cost $10 and I figure that's $10 very well spent. Should get my machine mid next week. Sooooo exciting !!! :p

[Spinkitten]

I'm so excited. I just bought my first sewing machine last night on Ebay. It's a Brother (not sure if that's just an AS company or not), it's brand new, 37 stitches, one step button holing, etc etc etc. I don't have it yet but I've already bought some patterns for a couple of great little vintage-inspired outfits. This is so exciting. Mum was thrilled when I told her. We used to do a lot of sewing together when I still lived at home. Now I just have to try and remember it all. I found a really good book that goes through all the basics too which will be so helpful. Only cost $10 and I figure that's $10 very well spent. Should get my machine mid next week. Sooooo exciting !!! :p

Thats great Glamgirl,

keep an eye on ebay as there are some great vintage patterns on there, I am useless behind the sewing machine but I cannot help collect patterns lol

[glamgirl]

haven't yet looked for patterns but I'll definitely keep an eye out for them now. Thanks. So is sewing something you're interested in but just can't do? I know a lot of the ladies on this site have talked about sewing lessons and our Spotlight stores (and I think Lincraft and a whole lot of others) offer sewing lessons. I'm lucky in that I get free lessons by purchasing my machine (if I want them). I think I'm right with the basics but then it will be lots of posts here and phone calls to Mum for help when I get stuck :p

[Lady Day]

I'm so excited. I just bought my first sewing machine last night on Ebay. It's a Brother (not sure if that's just an AS company or not), it's brand new, 37 stitches, one step button holing, etc etc etc. I don't have it yet but I've already bought some patterns for a couple of great little vintage-inspired outfits. This is so exciting. Mum was thrilled when I told her. We used to do a lot of sewing together when I still lived at home. Now I just have to try and remember it all. I found a really good book that goes through all the basics too which will be so helpful. Only cost $10 and I figure that's $10 very well spent. Should get my machine mid next week. Sooooo exciting !!! :p


Brother is a real good machine. My mother was a professional seamstress and she had a Brother machine for years. So good call.

Congrads, and now you will be a sewin fanatic!
Later,

LD

[glamgirl]

thanks Lady Day. Can't wait to show you all my sewing efforts once they get underway. So much fun. Brother do make good machines. My mum has had hers for well over 30 years and there's nothing ever gone wrong with it.

[BettyValentine]

Out of curiosity, how do you guys feel about dress forms with legs? I've only ever used them to paint on stretchy things and have never tried to drape on one before.

Is there any reason I could not just use a dress form with legs in place of a standard form with a cage bottom? Or is there any reason I would need both?

Also, I have kind of an odd question. If I were to want to build a strapless bathing suit out of a non-stretchy material, how would I go about draping that? I am thinking of something like Linda Carter's costume in Wonder Woman, or an old Playboy Bunny uniform. It's like an overbust corset with cups, but it is a one-piece with the underpants. Corsets I can handle, but the one-piece just intimidates the bejeezus out of me.

They are clearly boned in the top part, but I don't know how to manage that when it is to go directly into a crotch seam. Should I make the whole thing over a coutil shell, or should I only use that for the part from the waist up and use something else for the bottom?

BV

[Lauren]

Oh wow- you've got me- never done anything like that before. If it was me I'd buy an existing pattern and alter it to fit your needs. In the legs you'll probably need some form of elastic, but not neccesarily.

The dress forms with legs are mostly used for draping pants. We did this a bit in school but I'd say 99% of the time we were using regular Wolf dress forms. The advantage of the regular form is the ablity to drape a skirt down center front- because of the opening for the legs on the pant form you wouldn't get an accurate drape at center front for dresses and skirts. If you really want to drape your own things for legs (for lack of a better word) and still do dresses you're probably better off with two forms.

[Honey Doll]

I'm so excited. I just bought my first sewing machine last night on Ebay. It's a Brother (not sure if that's just an AS company or not), it's brand new, 37 stitches, one step button holing, etc etc etc. I don't have it yet but I've already bought some patterns for a couple of great little vintage-inspired outfits. This is so exciting. Mum was thrilled when I told her. We used to do a lot of sewing together when I still lived at home. Now I just have to try and remember it all. I found a really good book that goes through all the basics too which will be so helpful. Only cost $10 and I figure that's $10 very well spent. Should get my machine mid next week. Sooooo exciting !!! :p

Congrats!! I love, love, love my brother machine.

Honey Doll

[Snookie]

BV -- I made a swimsuit like the one you're describing a few years ago, for a vintage bathing suit competition (so it was more like a costume, not exactly functional). But I took a strapless evening dress pattern from the late 40's and left extra fabric at the bottom when I cut it out, and draped the legs on myself. I used elastic on the legholes and at the top, and I think I just wore a strapless bra (like I said, not very functional!).

If you want boning in yours, I'd build a separate shell for the boning like you describe, but if you just need support, not compression, you probably don't need coutil (that stuff's so expensive!). Just use some basic twill. You could hide the boning in the lining or make it separate. Are you using darts to shape the suit, or princess seams, or what?

RE: forms with legs -- Besides draping pants, I've seen them used for making dance costumes (modern dance, mostly). If I only had one I'd rather have a form with a cage, b/c skirts need to be draped more than pants.

[RetroMom]

:( Today I bought a vintage white chenille bedspread at a church bazzar. It had no tags and I had no idea of the size, but I was hoping it was at least a full size which would cover my queen size bed.

Alas, after I washed it and put it on, I discovered it was smaller and must be a twin size. It has a beautiful very large raised design in the center, so I hate to get rid of it, but what would could I do about the short length? I was thinking of either buying a pretty patterned dust ruffle or maybe sew on some type of dust ruffle. If I sew one on, should I use chenille or what type of fabric would be right? If all else fails, any ideas of what else make out of this bedspread?

[BonnieJean]

How about some pretty pillows? Or could you make it all into a throw? It would look nice draped over the end of a bed. I've seen some beautiful pillows made with chenille in magazines. Give me some more time and I might come up with some other ideas....

[humblestumble]

:( Today I bought a vintage white chenille bedspread at a church bazzar. It had no tags and I had no idea of the size, but I was hoping it was at least a full size which would cover my queen size bed.

Alas, after I washed it and put it on, I discovered it was smaller and must be a twin size. It has a beautiful very large raised design in the center, so I hate to get rid of it, but what would could I do about the short length? I was thinking of either buying a pretty patterned dust ruffle or maybe sew on some type of dust ruffle. If I sew one on, should I use chenille or what type of fabric would be right? If all else fails, any ideas of what else make out of this bedspread?


You could also try finding some coordinating fabric and adding to the borders, mitering the fabric at the corners so that the original bedspread is in the center.

[RetroMom]

Thanks ladies for the suggestions. :)

[glamgirl]

Congrats!! I love, love, love my brother machine.

Honey Doll
They are so popular. I picked my machine up from the post office today!! That was super fast. So I'm reading through the instruction manual to familiarise myself with it and I realise exactly how much I've forgotten about sewing. Tension, stitch length and width, which threads and stitches to use for what and with which fabric. Wow. It has been a long time. I'm lucky enough to have free sewing lessons but it's a bit of distance to travel to do them. But with all the expert help here plus my mum I'll get by just fine.

[ShrinkingViolet]

Hi, this is my first post :)
I've recently started making clothes from vintage 40s patterns and I was wondering how you girls go about shoulder pads?
I do think the padded shoulders are necessary in order to get the authentic look, and I do like the 'grotesqueness' of the 40s silhouette, but I'm a bit hesitant about using the big 80s reminiscent foam shoulder pads you can get in fabric shops!
In the original pattern instructions the pads are made of 'cotton batting' but I'm not quite sure what that is.. judging from the illustrations it looks like some kind of pillow filling...
I'm curious to know what you all do with dresses that need shoulder pads! Thanks

[Honey Doll]

Hi, this is my first post :)
I've recently started making clothes from vintage 40s patterns and I was wondering how you girls go about shoulder pads?
I do think the padded shoulders are necessary in order to get the authentic look, and I do like the 'grotesqueness' of the 40s silhouette, but I'm a bit hesitant about using the big 80s reminiscent foam shoulder pads you can get in fabric shops!
In the original pattern instructions the pads are made of 'cotton batting' but I'm not quite sure what that is.. judging from the illustrations it looks like some kind of pillow filling...
I'm curious to know what you all do with dresses that need shoulder pads! Thanks


I cut out (2) 6 inch squares of fabric and (1) 6 inch square of batting. Sandwich so --fabric, batting fabric (good sides out). Then zig zag edges together and fold one point over to the opposing side on a diagonal (looks them like a triangle)-- zig zag two edges.

I got these instructions in a 40s pattern. Others may do it differently.

Honey Doll

[Lady Day]

Hi, this is my first post :)
I've recently started making clothes from vintage 40s patterns and I was wondering how you girls go about shoulder pads?
I do think the padded shoulders are necessary in order to get the authentic look, and I do like the 'grotesqueness' of the 40s silhouette, but I'm a bit hesitant about using the big 80s reminiscent foam shoulder pads you can get in fabric shops!
In the original pattern instructions the pads are made of 'cotton batting' but I'm not quite sure what that is.. judging from the illustrations it looks like some kind of pillow filling...
I'm curious to know what you all do with dresses that need shoulder pads! Thanks

Welcome SV! :)

I am very anti shoulder pad (bad experience :o ) so I tend to forgo the entire step of getting them. But you can, as I have often find in many of my older clothes take scraps and fold them over and sew them to 'puff' the sleeve up, rather than an entire pad. OR you can go to a thrist store and pay $1 for an old coat/ blouse etc and swipe the pads from there.

LD

[Rosie]

I'm in the planning stages of a swing coat I'm going to make. My mom says I HAVE to have a lining. I have NO idea how to do that. I've read a few how tos online but, I'm stupid. I'm sure some of you ladies have done this. Am I basically making a smaller version of the coat and then sewing it in? Looking at bought items, the lining seems tucked into the garment, do I fold over my seams and sew the lining in? How do I keep it from bunching up when doing this? I'm lost. Any tips are much appreciated.

[CherryRed]

I'm in the planning stages of a swing coat I'm going to make. My mom says I HAVE to have a lining. I have NO idea how to do that. I've read a few how tos online but, I'm stupid. I'm sure some of you ladies have done this. Am I basically making a smaller version of the coat and then sewing it in? Looking at bought items, the lining seems tucked into the garment, do I fold over my seams and sew the lining in? How do I keep it from bunching up when doing this? I'm lost. Any tips are much appreciated.

Well, I haven't done this on a human scale but I have lined a dolls jacket when the pattern didn't call for it. I just made an exact copy of the coat in the lining fabric. Sew the sleeves in as you would on the coat, then to put it together turn the coat inside out and put the lining on it wrong sides together. When you pin it on you just have to tuck the edeges inward. Since I did it on a small scale, I hand sew it in with invisible stitching on the cuff edge. Also on the cuff, the hem of the coat fabric will come down farther than the lining. If you look at how a coat is put together, you will see what I mean. It is hard for me to put it into words with out showing it. The bottom hem does not have to be attached, so you can just hem that under. The neckline area could be machine stiched if you cover it with a collar or bias tape. Again it's hard to get this to make sence.
I'm sure the ladies who have done this on a normal scale will have more tips for you.

[Lady Day]

I'm in the planning stages of a swing coat I'm going to make. My mom says I HAVE to have a lining. I have NO idea how to do that. I've read a few how tos online but, I'm stupid. I'm sure some of you ladies have done this. Am I basically making a smaller version of the coat and then sewing it in? Looking at bought items, the lining seems tucked into the garment, do I fold over my seams and sew the lining in? How do I keep it from bunching up when doing this? I'm lost. Any tips are much appreciated.


Yeah, you need a lining. On most patterns, linings ARE the actual pattern for the shell of the coat. SO yes, you do cut a second 'coat' out and turn it inside out for the lining. I tend to sew the lining seperate from the shell and then join them together at the collar, the shoulder sceams, and such. I always leave a bit of extra when hemming the sleves so I dont get pull. Also dont attatch the bottom of the lining to the bottom of the coat, you tend (or at least I do) to get bunching and it may not lay flat.

Good luck

LD

[Rosie]

Thanks Cherry Red and Lady Day. I'm not intending on using a pattern but, I might. I've been doing lots of looking and drawing and can usually get things done without a pattern so I was thinking of dong this that way too. I get it, I hope it comes out okay.

[BegintheBeguine]

Is it going to be an outdoor coat or one you want to wear indoors over a dress? Is it a long coat, or is it more of a jacket length? I bought a swing jacket some years back and it is not lined, yet still hangs beautifully. I wear it indoors over a dress.

[Elaina]

Also one important step when lining anything that hangs: let it sit 24 hours hanging up before hemming the garment.

Elaina

[TheLovelyLolly]

Hello Ladies!! I'm still exploring the Fedora Lounge, and I'm thrilled to discover this sewing thread!!

I have a question I'm hoping someone can help me with: I recently decided to try using an invisible zipper. The instructions said to use an "invisible zipper foot". What does that look like? How is it different from the regular zipper foot?

Hope someone can help me!!

[Rosie]

Thanks ladies. It is going to be an outdoor coat, about calf length. I was thinking of making a thin flannel lining to make it colder weather capable, I'm not sure yet.

The material is a very heavy silky satin.

[Elaina]

Hello Ladies!! I'm still exploring the Fedora Lounge, and I'm thrilled to discover this sewing thread!!

I have a question I'm hoping someone can help me with: I recently decided to try using an invisible zipper. The instructions said to use an "invisible zipper foot". What does that look like? How is it different from the regular zipper foot?

Hope someone can help me!!

Well...they're technically the same thing. I use a zipper foot period on all my Singers (and I use a 66 treadle), and asking a friend who has a Kenmore, hers looks the same.

According to Clotilde, this is what an invisible zipper foot looks like (it's not the style of the zipper to put in, rather it's the style of the foot.)
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/elainaflessas/invzip.jpg

This is what I use: http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/elainaflessas/zip.jpg and it's not really a zipper foot, but a cording foot that also turned into a zipper foot by the time the Featherweights came along (which means I can add cording to a garment like frogs, and it doubles as my zipper foot).

So technically, this is your answer. For ease, go with the plastic one (make sure your shanks are correct) and you can see what you're doing. Even the plastic one will fit a vintage machine. The cording/zipper foot is also a little harder to find. About the only plus to the cording foot is the fact it's metal and you can't wear it out. (And I got mine in a puzzle box or I'd have a plastic one too.)

Elaina

[TheLovelyLolly]

Thank you Elaina!!

I have a metal foot that came with the machine that looks very similar so will give that a go!!

Fingers crossed!!

[Tourbillion]

I'm in the planning stages of a swing coat I'm going to make. My mom says I HAVE to have a lining. I have NO idea how to do that. I've read a few how tos online but, I'm stupid. I'm sure some of you ladies have done this. Am I basically making a smaller version of the coat and then sewing it in? Looking at bought items, the lining seems tucked into the garment, do I fold over my seams and sew the lining in? How do I keep it from bunching up when doing this? I'm lost. Any tips are much appreciated.

A coat lining would have a small pleat for wearing ease in the middle of the back. So, it is a little wider than the coat at the top. It shouldn't be wider at the bottom though. It is only smaller than the outside of the coat in that the coat has a facing, which isn't lined, otherwise it is bigger because of the pleat (it might be 1/2" smaller overall if the outer fabric is heavy, but I'd be careful, you can always make the lining smaller, but once it is cut you can't make it bigger).

At the hem, you make a pleat at the bottom, and sew the lining at the hem of the coat. It forms a little tuck, which won't show on the outside of the coat, but helps you move around. There should be a little tuck at the end of the sleeve lining too.

You can turn the edges under and sew the whole thing by hand, but you can also sew everything but the hem by machine, and then hem the lining by hand (less likely to come loose).

[Nashoba]

Ladies,
I'm looking at finally getting myself a dressform. I asked for one last year for my birthday and my mother told me I was better off without one. She said when she was in school (she went to FIT in New York back in the day) she used it for draping but that it was difficult to account for ease with a form and that I was better off without one. She said she barely used it at all after she graduated. It could just be her though, her style. She makes beautiful clothing though so I said okay. At this point if for nothing else I needs something so that I can hem my own clothing. I can't afford to takemy clothes to the tailor to hem and my husband is not a good person to ask to put pins into things that I'm wearing! Do you find that you have problems with ease when using a form? Do you run into problems with it or is it something you just can't live without? Does anyone have any reccomendations on whether I should look for a vintage one or a modern one and what kind??? I'm so clueless on this, and everytime I ask my mother she tells me I don't need one.
Thanks
Nashoba

[Rosie]

A coat lining would have a small pleat for wearing ease in the middle of the back. So, it is a little wider than the coat at the top. It shouldn't be wider at the bottom though. It is only smaller than the outside of the coat in that the coat has a facing, which isn't lined, otherwise it is bigger because of the pleat (it might be 1/2" smaller overall if the outer fabric is heavy, but I'd be careful, you can always make the lining smaller, but once it is cut you can't make it bigger).

At the hem, you make a pleat at the bottom, and sew the lining at the hem of the coat. It forms a little tuck, which won't show on the outside of the coat, but helps you move around. There should be a little tuck at the end of the sleeve lining too.

You can turn the edges under and sew the whole thing by hand, but you can also sew everything but the hem by machine, and then hem the lining by hand (less likely to come loose).

Thanks Tourbillion and thanks ladies. You girls rock!

[Elaina]

It actually depends on you, Nashoba.

I have one, that other then for school work, I haven't used hardly at all, I create a pattern and then alter that, since I can keep the altered piece and not do that everytime I want to make something similar. Many people that took fashion in college (wether home or business) seem to not favor using a dress form. Ease, depends on how you design. Even when draping, I usually don't add much ease, then when I reconstruct the garment out of my fashion fabric, I have to add the ease I want at that point, because the muslin doesn't generally offer much (and I'm using an example of something I don't do often myself. Most times I draw my design, then I go to my pattens and get the pieces out of the box, baste a muslin together, and fit from there). Or I draft new pieces if needed and do the rest.

If you just want one to hem, they have a bulb and chalk thing on a tripod that is a heck of a lot cheaper as well as being able to use it by yourself. So you have to ask yourself, why do you want one?

Some people love theirs, I have one that currently has on a shirt and skirt I designed/made, that while I wear them sometimes, they aren't day-to-day sort of wear, it's gothic club wear. Good to show off my skill for others, and is about to go into storage today.

Elaina

[Nashoba]

Thanks elaina! i had one of the bulb chalk ones and I really didn't like it much. I've gone this long without one bu I'm just starting to think that since I sew for a living I should have something. The clothing I make is mainly for myself and every once and a while my husband needs something done for his uniforms but I just feel like it might be easier...or my mom is right and I don't need one at all. I'm just trying to figure out if one would make my life easier!

[Lady Day]

I dont have a dress form, but I want one because I want to see how garments look from a distance. I also want to see how sculpted items will lay so I can cut out all the extra prep time.


LD

[Annalai]

Here is some information on how to make your own dressform.

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=109877.0

Annalai

[Nashoba]

Here is some information on how to make your own dressform.

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=109877.0

Annalai

Thank you so much!!!!!! I was looking at them online and the prices were a bit disapointing...I'd have to save for a couple of months to get one. :( That means cutting into my flea market / vintage / thrift / ebay budget and I hate doing that :). Priorities I suppose...
Nash

[Snookie]

Rosie: You're very adventurous to make a coat without starting from a pattern! I've never been brave enough to try something like that.

For your lining, I agree with Tourbillion: don't go too small at first. Like she said, linings should be even bigger than the fashion fabric, so that the lining doesn't pull funny. For that same reason, you might consider hemming the lining separately from the coat, and just using swing tacks to attach the two. (if you were making a short jacket you could hem the lining to the jacket.) The tuck for the sleeve hem that Tourbillion mentioned is crucial, too.

Are to planning to have facing inside the front of the jacket? 3"-4" is standard, and the lining starts after that. (so the front piece of the lining is smaller than the front of the jacket. Lining front=jacket front - facing + seam allowance.)

[Rosie]

I've made dresses without patterns, I thought I could do this. I've been drawing and draping but I'm getting a bit scared now, I don't want to ruin my fabric as it was a bit pricey. But, I'm thinking, other than the lining, the coat would be made like a tent dress. Should I use a pattern? I've not found a decent vintage one in my size but then again, I haven't searched extensively either.


I'm using this: what do you ladies think?


http://www.damehelen.com/houpe/swing_coat.html

[RetroModelSari]

I´m working on a black wrap-blouse right now, but cause plain black seems too boring for this piece I want to apply pearls to it. A monogram of my name on my right chest and maybe a butterfly on my left shoulder. Has anyone ever done this? Is there any website with advice on it and sort of "stitching" patterns? I want to train it before finishing the blouse and ruining my first self-made piece of clothes....

[Lady Day]

I've made dresses without patterns, I thought I could do this. I've been drawing and draping but I'm getting a bit scared now, I don't want to ruin my fabric as it was a bit pricey. But, I'm thinking, other than the lining, the coat would be made like a tent dress. Should I use a pattern? I've not found a decent vintage one in my size but then again, I haven't searched extensively either.


I'm using this: what do you ladies think?


http://www.damehelen.com/houpe/swing_coat.html



The simple stuff is always the stuff that needs a pattern. Like the caplet I did earler in the thread. I would have been on crack to attempt that on my own and expect it to hang correctly. Id say the same for swing coats. ROSIE!! Girl, Ill lend you my swing coat pattern NP!

LD

[Barbara]

I am going to make my daughter a cowgirl skirt and vest with the help of a friend. What kind of material would be nice for this. My skills are pretty basic, but my friend is an expert. What would you suggest? Many thanks. My daughter is 3.

[Nashoba]

Personally I would probably go with cotton. It's reasonably priced even downright cheap in many cases. Which is good for a costume for a 3 year old as she may not get too many uses out of it. If she wanted something sparkly there are some really good cheap costuming fabrics out there, especially right now with halloween coming up.
Nash

[Barbara]

OK, but for Halloween, wouldn't it get chilly? I mean, she would wear tights...

[Snookie]

How about Ultrasuede or a cheap knit with a flocked surface to look suede. Look for fabric that doesn't unravel easily, so you can cut the edges into fringe instead of hemming (and you wouldn't need to finish any of the vest edges). If you need warmth, how about a thin Polarfleece? You could probably find some good cowprints, too, if you want.

[Nashoba]

OK, but for Halloween, wouldn't it get chilly? I mean, she would wear tights...

Not if I remember October in Pasadena right....I remember it being pretty warm, unless you're weather has turned already. But tights and a long sleeve shirt would probably take care of that.
Snookie's got a good point too. there are some inexpensive synthetic suede like materials out there too that would be darling.

[Lauren]

I second the ultra suede or another sueded fabric. I remember my mom made me an indian costume once and it was out of a knit that was sueded. IT was cool because since it was a knit you'd only have to cut it and not hem it- and you could cut fringe at the bottom that we added little beads to. Maybe something like that? Michael Levines should have it if somewhere else doesnt :)

[Barbara]

Thanks ladies!!! I think I'll look at the ultrasuede. Unfortunately, getting downtown is not going to be an option, so probably I'll see what Joann's has since this is more or less 'playclothes' for my daughter. I would rather be able to cut the fringe than have to glue it on.

[Honey Doll]

You could do ultrasuade for the skirt and maybe a simple felt for the vest and cut into it to fringe it. It would be darling to do a vest of a faux fur cow print too!

Honey Doll

[Barbigirl]

Love the faux suede and cowprint ideas. When my kids were little I always tried to make costumes a little big as both girls were huge on playing dress up. At one point that was almost all they wore and it was OK with me.

Funny, two little Southern Belles or princesses wandering around the grocery store with me the rest of the year.

[Elaina]

Another thing (I just went to the Evil JoAnn's with a friend making her grandson a Woody costume) and we got outdoor furniture material. Wears like iron, doesn't have to be ironed like cotton, and is a bit heavier then apparel fabrics, but you can't fringe it.

Ultra seude is a good idea, also look into suiting for the skirt. And if the seude is too much out of the budget, you can try fleece: it too will fringe without hemming.

Elaina

[Barbara]

Thanks. My daughter does not have a costume yet, but I'm sure once she gets this one, I'll be taking my little cowgirl everywhere, in full rodeo gear. I would avoid any material too stiff, but will check out what lurks at evil Joanne's door. If I was back in my hometown of Lawrence, KS, I'd know just where to go for excellent material. Downtown LA is just too much of a hassle for me.

Thanks again ladies.

[Lauren]

Oh, btw~ I LOVE the cowgirl idea!! She's going to be adorable!! :) I want to see pics!

[Nashoba]

Thanks. My daughter does not have a costume yet, but I'm sure once she gets this one, I'll be taking my little cowgirl everywhere, in full rodeo gear. I would avoid any material too stiff, but will check out what lurks at evil Joanne's door. If I was back in my hometown of Lawrence, KS, I'd know just where to go for excellent material. Downtown LA is just too much of a hassle for me.

Thanks again ladies.

Which JoAnns do you go to? Do you go to the one on Lake Street?
I miss LA so much. My husband hated it there, but I LOVED it...

Nash

[Barbara]

Yes, the one on Lake is near me, right down the street. I'm afraid I'm in your husband's camp. We have a cute bungalow (rented), the weather is wonderful, but I hate driving everywhere, hate my commute to work. Maybe someday I'll miss it here. We have no family here, so it's kind of hard to have a family here.

I lived in London for years, so I'm ready to go back overseas. My husband is from Spain. The weather here can't be beat, but it's expensive, and quite honestly, I don't find most people do much here outside of shopping and eating out (of course, the fedora lounge folks who live here are obviously outside the norm).

We've made good friends here though. And Lauren, I'll have to get a pic once my sewing experiment is done. You should see how I botched up some trousers today.

My best friend here is moving tomorrow to Oregon. We have raised our babies together, so I'm probably not in the best frame of mind about LA today. :(

[BettyValentine]

Does anyone make a good pattern for 1760s-1790s stays?

Thanks!
BV

[Rosie]

The simple stuff is always the stuff that needs a pattern. Like the caplet I did earler in the thread. I would have been on crack to attempt that on my own and expect it to hang correctly. Id say the same for swing coats. ROSIE!! Girl, Ill lend you my swing coat pattern NP!

LD

:( You really think so? I've only been drawing and looking at every swing coat I can get my hands on. I saw some patterns in my size but, they were for a more modern swing coat, I want a 50's style one, like the kind one would wear with a circle skirt or dress. Should I just get the modern pattern and then modify collar, sleeves and such? I'm not sure if your pattern would work for me, I'm a few sizes bigger than you. :o

[Lauren]

Does anyone make a good pattern for 1760s-1790s stays?

Thanks!
BV

I've heard the pattern by J.P. Ryan is good for 1700s stays
http://www.jpryan.com/ladiespatterns.html

[Lauren]

I was just looking on the back of the new Simpliticy vintage repro patterns I got and the lovely people put a finished garment measure chart on the back. It looks like with these patterns it has 3.5" of ease in the bust, waist, and hips. I'm guessing it's the industry standard. The people at vogue have a chart on their website:
http://voguepatterns.com/indexfv.html

So if it was me, I'd cut out 1 size smaller- maybe 2 in the bust and waist. Gotta leave wiggle room in the hips for sitting and moving. But don't take my word for it, try a pattern at the size it says first and then see- you may find the next time you use one of their patterns you may want to cut a size or two smaller.

[Rosie]

Fabulosity!!!!


http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V2934.jpg

[Lady Day]

Um...yeah!


LD

[ShrinkingViolet]

I've decided that I have to make myself a pair of the Simplicity 3322 high-waisted trousers from Eva Dress (http://www.evadress.com/3322.html)
The thing is that I'm a vintage size 16 and the pattern is 18!
I have a vaaague idea that a few of you ladies have made these trousers - could you please give some advice on how to alter these down a size? Should I just cut them 2 inches smaller all over or just around the waist- and hipline?
Would it be very difficult for someone who isn't experienced in pattern alteration?

Merci bien!

[CherryRed]

There is this one too Rosi, just not a full as the one Lady Day posted.
http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V2884.jpg

[humblestumble]

I just got a set of presser feet in the mail and I love love LOVE them! I can't believe I've gone a year without them :) I especially love my walking foot. How many of you use multiple presser feet?

Also, I thought I'd let you guys know about my sewing blog. It's got tutorials and tips on it. It's my learning journey, and I'm trying to get the word out to help others who are beginners or even intermediates like myself so that they can get help if they can't afford to buy stuff to learn. Let me know what you think, I'm trying to improve :) http://diysewright.blogspot.com

[Honey Doll]

I've decided that I have to make myself a pair of the Simplicity 3322 high-waisted trousers from Eva Dress (http://www.evadress.com/3322.html)
The thing is that I'm a vintage size 16 and the pattern is 18!
I have a vaaague idea that a few of you ladies have made these trousers - could you please give some advice on how to alter these down a size? Should I just cut them 2 inches smaller all over or just around the waist- and hipline?
Would it be very difficult for someone who isn't experienced in pattern alteration?

Merci bien!

I would probably cut the pants a 1/2 inch smaller on the outer seam side. That would drop the waist by 2 inches (4 pant pieces x 1/2). If the hip measurement of the pattern needs to be brought similarly in you could do the same on the outer seam side.

When you have them together, try them on, adjust the fit by bringing the seam either in or out as necessary and then cut the waistband pieces to fit after you are satisfied with the fit of the pants.

This shouldn't be hard.

I haven't tried that pattern, but have done done one by Advance from the late 30s. The fit is fairly loose in the hip and the rise is quite low by modern comparison.

Honey Doll

[Lady Day]

I've decided that I have to make myself a pair of the Simplicity 3322 high-waisted trousers from Eva Dress (http://www.evadress.com/3322.html)
The thing is that I'm a vintage size 16 and the pattern is 18!
I have a vaaague idea that a few of you ladies have made these trousers - could you please give some advice on how to alter these down a size? Should I just cut them 2 inches smaller all over or just around the waist- and hipline?
Would it be very difficult for someone who isn't experienced in pattern alteration?

Merci bien!
The biggest area I would worry about is around the waist. Make sure your body measurements are on around that. All the rest (hips, thighs, lenght) are easily adjustable by a bit of taking in at the seam.

Good luck.
LD

[Lauren]

Sorry, guilty of cross posting on this, but it's applicable to ALL patterns, not only vintage vogues so I thought I'd repost :)

Here's how to take into account commercial pattern company ease in reference to the size you want your pattern to be
The ease on the Vintage Vogue I was using was 3.5" all around- which makes the fit significantly off for vintage wear. I suggest for a vintage fit in a dress that you have at least 1" of ease in the bust, fitted at the waist, and up to 2" in the hips for sitting and standing and whatnot- because it does you no good to make a dress to perfection then not be able to move in it. Here's what I did and you can do it for others if you're going to be making it from someone else:

Take 5 essential measurements:

*Bust
*Waist
*Hips
*Front waist (length from center front neck to the natural waistline (the smallest part of the waist). IF you need help with this, tie a piece of string around your waist and measure from the center of the bottom of your neck where that little "v" is to the string.
*Back waist- from center back neck to the waist.

Write these all down and keep them handy. When you go to buy a pattern buy it in the size that matches the three essential measurements.

When you get the pattern open it all up and grab a ruler and a calculator or a scrap of paper.

Measure across the bust of the dress taking into account any design , darts, or cutting, and the seam allowance (I believe it is 5/8" on these patterns) If there are multiple pieces and the dress has a lining, it will most likely be the most basic shape of the garment so measure across that instead of the design pieces.

Measure across bust, skipping over darts. Subtract 5/8" for seam allowance if it's on the fold. if it has a center seam subtract another 5/8".

Multiply x2. Write this number down.

Do the same with the back piece.

Add front measurement to back measurement and this is the finished garment bust measure.

Do the same for the waist (don't forget to skip over any darts and pleating) and the skirt. If the skirt has multiple pieces add the top measure of each piece then subtract 5/8" for each seam.

You should have your measurements now of the finished garment. If this is too big you know to cut a smaller size. If it's too small you know to go up a size. Do the same measureing for the other sizes to make sure you're not making it too big or too small. Use the one that matches your biggest measurement the best PLUS ease you desire.

Take your center front and center back measure and measure from the pattern from the top to the waistline of the pattern (this should be marked and if it's not it's the smallest width across the waist when you skip over the darts). Add or take away what you need to to match your measurements. There should be a part of the pattern marked *shorten or lengthen here*. That's where you do it. I take an invisible ruler, draw a line the width I need to take it in, then fold and pin mine. If you need to add, draw a line with an invisible ruler on a scrap piece of paper the width you need, slash your pattern on the line, and insert the scrap underneath, taping the pattern to the added inches.

I did this with the vintage Vogue and found them at least 1 size bigger. You may want to do it yourself. It will cut your fitting time in half, guaranteed, if you do it correctly :)

[K by the bay]

Hello all. I'm thinking of doing some projects with wool. Does it shrink if you wash it in cold water but dont put it in the dryer? Supposing I washed a wool jacket in size large, would it shrink to a size medium? Thanks for any advice.

[Lauren]

I never wash wool as a rule- it's too risky I think. I always send mine out to be dry cleaned because I shrunk one of my favorite sweaters ever by throwing it in the wash. This site says that products labeled as such can be machine washed, but frankly I've never seen a label like that. But the site also has great info on why wool actually shrinks, so you may want to check it out :)
http://www.pp-t.co.uk/INFO%20pages/Archive/Washablewool.htm

[K by the bay]

Thanks, Lauren. I was actually thinking of getting a cheap wool jacket, like a man's suit jacket or something,(nothing vintage, don't worry),and washing it. I just don't know how much it would shrink. If I should get an extra large and expect it to turn into a size small or what, you know. I'll let you all know what happens if I try it. Just have to decide what size to get.

[Lauren]

I've always wondered myself what would happen in that case. Maybe try it with a $5 thrift store jacket first. The thing that is tough is that men's jackets have all this interlining and shoulderpads and layers women's jackets don't usually have- plus lining. I'm just afraid the wool on the outside would shrink and all the "guts" if you will, won't! Putting it to test on a cheap jacket may help with the experiment.

Why do guys get all the cool jackets, anyways? They always use the best wools and we get stuck with the polyesters! lol

[Lady Day]

Well...I machine wash ALL my wool. :o

Thus far, ive never had any prob with it shrinking, but I wash it on a delicate cycle and do a bit of reshaping and hang it to dry. I also (if its a wool sweater) continue to re shape it as it drys.

I did just make a swing coat out of a vintage wool, and when the time comes, I havend decided on how Im gonna clean it.

LD