Brim size

[Crease]

Does size really matter? How does a newbie determine which brim size is appropriate? This is the most troubling issue to date ( except trying to figure out how I got outbid on Ebay for a vintage Borsalino I thought I had won until the last minute ) in my venture off into the world of Fedoras which I am loving. Comments on brim size, please. Thanks.
...Crease

[Orgetorix]

Honestly, it's very much an individual thing. Maybe the best course of action for you would be to go to a local hat store (this one (http://www.levinehat.com/) showed up on a quick Google search) and spend a while trying on hats with different brim widths to see how they look on your head.

[MrBern]

You really have to go to a hatshop & try some on....
Some people can wear anything, some fret over 1/8th of an inch.

[Feraud]

Trying on a variety of hats is best. I own hats from 2" on up.
I choose a hat depending on my mood.

[johnnycanuck]

Depends what you want out of your hat. If you are looking at sun protection, the Canadian cancer society recommends at last 80mm (3") wide brim. I personally only use this wide of a brim if I am doing yard work or going camping. For the city I usually wear a 66mm (2 5/8") 73mm (2 7/8") brim. My pork pies and bowlers with 2" or less are my night time hats (no sun).
If you are looking for style. Style is subjective. There are no hard and fast rules. Go with what you like.
If you have a hat shop in your area, go down, try on some hats, find a style you like (and size that fits) If the quality isn't good or the price isn't great either, look for a similar style on line.
If that fails, look at the pictures and watch movies with people in hats with similar face and build as yourself and see what one looks best to your eye.
That's my two cents worth anyway.
Johnny

[feltfan]

For many of us, the solution is to *buy* fine vintage hats
of many brim sizes and try them on...

As long as you don't mind owning a few hats, you might
find, as I do, that different brim sizes are useful with
different outfits and in different weather.

[Cacklewack]

Being a short, scrawny fellow with a large noggin, I cannot pull off a brim larger than 2.5 inches. I lose 10 years of age with a wider brim and look like I just fell out of the womb. It is a terrible experience! On the other hand, I don't like brims shorter than 2 inches either. Most of the hats I wear are 2-2 1/4 inches or so.

This has been frustrating, because some of the highest quality hats I've acquired have had brims or crowns slightly too large to suit me. Soon I will sell them off to you larger fellows. Maybe I will keep them in my closet to gaze at from time to time, or give away to those just getting into hats.

Go try some on before forking out the dough. You'll be thankful you did.

Matt

[WideBrimm]

Besides trying on a variety of hats, different styles & sizes in a store, it's also a matter of getting used to seeing yourself in a hat over time. Antique stores, thrift shops, and Burlington Coat Factory are all good sources of inexpensive hats. Buy several, wear them for different occasions, or around home. You'll soon begin to see which ones you like, and which are the ones to give away, trade, or sell.

[AdmiralTofu]

It's been my experience that it's really just a matter of one's own attitude and tastes, as well as the ensemble the hat is paired with. Base guidelines about what brim size and crown shape go with what facial shape and all that are good, but what it boils down to is: do you think you look good in it? More important, do you feel good in it? This forum's chock full of examples of folks breaking "rule" after so-called "rule," and pulling it off stunningly. My advice is the same as those already expressed: don't be afraid to try on as many as you can, even if that means ending up with hats that might not work for you (that's what eBay and trading are for! :) )

-Tofu

[Cruiser]

... most troubling issue to date ( except trying to figure out how I got outbid on Ebay for a vintage Borsalino I thought I had won until the last minute ) ...Crease

I never could figure this out either, until one day someone suggested I go to www.esnipe.com and read about their service. This may clear up some questions for you. Regards.

[John in Covina]

Although it is not set in stone, there are some general guidelines as described here: http://www.millerhats.com/hatcare_index/hatfaces.html

[Rottweiler]

Hey ladies and gents,

I've been wearing Akubra's Fed IV and CEO for some months after starting out a couple of years ago with a Jaxon Bogart (2 3/8" brim). The CEO is the broadest of my three with a 2 3/4" brim. I think it suits my head:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/Mr_Rotty/Brave.jpg

A lid is first and foremost functional, and I like how much a broad brim keeps the sun and rain off. I've read that Australian dermatologists found UV protection to scale with hat brim size, with diminishing returns only setting in beyond 4". That gets into the world of western hats, and I just don't know if my head shape can swing something like that.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/Mr_Rotty/MyHead.jpg

Going by The face chart here (http://www.millerhats.com/hatcare_index/hatfaces.html), I guess I have a long slender face with big ears and slightly long nose? Any advice from the experienced on how big of a hat I can pull off, and optical tricks to maximize that? I suspect the the upward side curl common on western hats works against me, while a snapped down front increases what I can wear without submerging my face.

[DRB]

One question: do you want to stand out, or blend into the crowd? The one you are wearing in the picture looks good to me, and I am a 2 1/8" kind of guy.

[monbla256]

That CEO with its 2.75" brim looks good on you. I wouldn't go much past a 3" brim which would limit you to some of the older more traditional Western styles w/3" brims. The Open Road Stetson would work well as well as the Range models and Ft.Worth models of Stetsons as the last two come with 3" brims. And since you like Akubras don't forget the Squatter (3" brim) or the Campdraft ( the official Akubra here :) )

[danofarlington]

Hey ladies and gents,

I've been wearing Akubra's Fed IV and CEO for some months after starting out a couple of years ago with a Jaxon Bogart (2 3/8" brim). The CEO is the broadest of my three with a 2 3/4" brim. I think it suits my head:



Yes, that brim width is good. But as to a 4" brim, I would say at that point you have to curve the brim upward to avoid looking like an umbrella, and then we're talking about a cowboy hat more than a fedora.

[scottyrocks]

This is (was) a 4" brim:
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/erickvonzipper/me/0414091518-1.jpg

I have an average size and shape head, though. But you can see how monstrous, and western, a brim this big looks.

[zetwal]

I suspect the the upward side curl common on western hats works against me, while a snapped down front increases what I can wear without submerging my face.

The upward curl on the sides allows you to wear a wider brim without looking like you have an umbrella (or worse) on your head. Snapping the brim down will partially cover (submerge) the face. Having it up will open the face up.

For most people, four inches would be way too much brim for a fedora style hat. Westerns come in a myriad of shapes and styles. If you want to go that wide find the western style that works best for you. ;)

[carldelo]

Bencraft has some Borsalino styles with large brim, e.g. the Bellini comes with a 3-1/2" brim:
http://www.bencrafthats.com/superfile/prod_img/5B_BELL_ver/300x300_5B_BELL.gif
It only comes in black, as it is part of the 'Religious collection'. Here's another, the Diamante, with a 3-1/4" brim:
http://www.bencrafthats.com/superfile/prod_img/7C3.jpg
At least it also comes in blue and gray, so maybe would not look so 'orthodox.'

[Sam Craig]

No one can pull off a four inch brim in anything short of a Tom Mix Stetson or a Pancho Villa sombrero
I guess we're all going to fry
The good news is ... we'll go out looking good!

Sam

[danofarlington]

No one can pull off a four inch brim in anything short of a Tom Mix Stetson or a Pancho Villa sombrero
Sam

Well, there was Roy Bolger in the "Wizard of Oz." That hat brim must've been four inches.

[Rottweiler]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone.


One question: do you want to stand out, or blend into the crowd?

Stand out, for sure. I think that's inevitable when dressing appropriately for the weather these days. Here's my typical look outdoors October to May (the rainy season):

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/Mr_Rotty/Bogart.jpg

So looking flashy is no matter. I just want a hat to be functional, dapper, and not make my face look too small.


And since you like Akubras don't forget the Squatter (3" brim) or the Campdraft ( the official Akubra here)

I've been eying the Squatter, since messing with the Fed IV made me never want to go back to pre-creased crowns.


But as to a 4" brim, I would say at that point you have to curve the brim upward to avoid looking like an umbrella, and then we're talking about a cowboy hat more than a fedora.

That's a concern for me, not because I'm adverse to the cowboy look, but because the face shape chart strongly recommends against the upward side curl with big ears.

@scottyrocks: I don't think it looks monstrous on you at all. The tall crown with off-center pinch would give you a Shadow look if it was black. What did you cut it to?


For most people, four inches would be way too much brim for a fedora style hat. Westerns come in a myriad of shapes and styles. If you want to go that wide find the western style that works best for you.

That's what I'm attempting. If you look at period photographs, a Western hat could have any sort of bash (no surprise, since they were sold open!) and the side curl was uncommon. By the Golden Era, you had Tom Mix and Hollywood standardizing the shape. I think any other authentic shape would have to be paired with wool trousers, white shirt, a vest, and good western boots like Lucchese Classics to be carried off.


No one can pull off a four inch brim in anything short of a Tom Mix Stetson or a Pancho Villa sombrero

Not even Wild Bill Hickok?

http://www.legendsofamerica.com/photos-oldwest/BillHickok-2-500.jpg

(Note how already in the Victorian era, well-dressed men knew to match lapel widths to their brims!)

[DanielJones]

Well, you wouldn't want to mess with or comment on Wild Bill's hat, you might have gotten your self shot.;)

Cheers!

Dan

[Sam Craig]

Hickok and Cody paved the way for the Tom Mixers

Bat Masterson and Wyatt Earp opened the door for Phillip Marlow and led to our fedora-obsession

In fact, late in life, Masterson wore a pretty decent fedora

Hickok had the handicapped of being killed in 1876

Cody dressed the part he played and kept the widebrim, wearing it well

I believe they'd all have agreed, however, that 4 inches is too much for a fedora

Sam

[MCGMB]

Here's a question that I can't seem to find an answer to by searching.

I'm relatively new to the hat thing, having recently bought a Stetson Chatham (Sage) and Temple (Mink) that I think are just the greatest.

But as the warmer weather is approaching, I'm thinking about getting something that does a great job of shading the sun, without looking unusually large. Not that there's anything wrong with something like a big country hat, I may eventually get one, but for a variety of reasons, in a casual urban (or suburban) setting, I just don't think I'd feel completely at ease with that right now.

Additionally, which color might minimize the perception of brim size? My gut feeling on that is something lighter and more neutral, but how much lighter, and which neutral color? The hat's use would be primarily casual, with jeans or khakis and the like.

My first idea on something that would work pretty well is the Akubra Banjo Paterson in Heritage Fawn with its 2.75" brim. But are there others that might be a better choice? And is there a hat with a 3" brim (or larger) that just doesn't look as big as its measurment?

This is a great site and have had hours of enjoyment reading through old threads.:)

[Buggnkat]

I think more so color is your own body dimensions. Wide shoulders and a more round type face can make a wide brim seem small not so wide. Where as a long slender face with a narrow shoulders make even a relatively narrow brim seem large.

[MCGMB]

Yeah, I agree on the body dimensions. I have roundish face, and it does seem I can get away with a wider brim because of it.

This prompts another thought -- the dimensions of the hat itself, apart from the brim. It seems a taller, broader, perhaps straighter, crown would make the brim seem a bit smaller than it is. But which hat brand & model optimizes this to the greatest effect?

[Rick Blaine]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/BrimPlus.jpg


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/brimplus2.jpg :rofl:

[jlee562]

Yeah, I agree on the body dimensions. I have roundish face, and it does seem I can get away with a wider brim because of it.

This prompts another thought -- the dimensions of the hat itself, apart from the brim. It seems a taller, broader, perhaps straighter, crown would make the brim seem a bit smaller than it is. But which hat brand & model optimizes this to the greatest effect?

IMHO, the taller and straighter the crown, the "bigger" the entire hat looks. Think about a typical cowboy hat. Those are tall, straight crowns.

[Otateral]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/BrimPlus.jpg


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/brimplus2.jpg :rofl:

That's a frightening set of images there LOL

[Chepstow]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/BrimPlus.jpg


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/brimplus2.jpg :rofl:

Rick, thats a brim!!:eeek:

[gtdean48]

.... But are there others that might be a better choice? And is there a hat with a 3" brim (or larger) that just doesn't look as big as its measurment?

This is a great site and have had hours of enjoyment reading through old threads.:)

I have a few 3" brimmed OR styled hats including this Stetson 100.
I am used to wide brims & really don't care to go less than a 2 5/8" brim width.
I have a Knox 20 & Marathon OR clones both with 3" brims.
It is what you get comfortable with....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/GTDean48/Sigs/100Stet3a.jpg

[TipTop]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/Greghats/BrimPlus.jpg


:rofl:

Let me guess: you wear a 58Long (with some shoulder padding)....



Here's a full-length of me (6'3"/46L) but not broad-shouldered, in full western :
http://gallery.photo.net/photo/15267492-md.jpg

[scottyrocks]

For those of you thinking that westerns are even more 'out of place' than fedoras, for many years, in even the metro NYC area, I saw way more western/cowboy hats than I ever saw fedoras, and probably still do. This is not to say that everyone should be more comforatble in any one item, but, as in so many aspects of society, there is 'safety in numbers.'

I believe the original question here was about brom width. While it is true that the shape of the wearer's head and facial features have a lot to do with what will 'look good.' the hat itself, meaning its other parts, also play a role. How a brim with will look any you is influenced by teh size and shape of a hat's crown, as well as its band or ribbon. This is why trying hats on is so important.

If you go into a hat shop, and everything you try on looks 'wrong,' let's say the crowns are too tapered as is the case these days with most new hats sold in stores, then when looking on line, one would know to focus on hats with less tapered crowns, whether new or vintage. This doesn't mean you'll always get your perfect hat, but at least you'll be moving in the right direction for yourself.

[MCGMB]

I have a few 3" brimmed OR styled hats including this Stetson 100.
I am used to wide brims & really don't care to go less than a 2 5/8" brim width.
I have a Knox 20 & Marathon OR clones both with 3" brims.
It is what you get comfortable with....

That's a really really nice Stetson you have there -- both from a style and color perspective. I especially like how the ribbon and bound edge only slightly contrast with the rest of the hat. I think the OR-type just went way high on my list.

[Buggnkat]

For those of you thinking that westerns are even more 'out of place' than fedoras, for many years, in even the metro NYC area, I saw way more western/cowboy hats than I ever saw fedoras, and probably still do. This is not to say that everyone should be more comforatble in any one item, but, as in so many aspects of society, there is 'safety in numbers.'

I believe the original question here was about brom width. While it is true that the shape of the wearer's head and facial features have a lot to do with what will 'look good.' the hat itself, meaning its other parts, also play a role. How a brim with will look any you is influenced by teh size and shape of a hat's crown, as well as its band or ribbon. This is why trying hats on is so important.

If you go into a hat shop, and everything you try on looks 'wrong,' let's say the crowns are too tapered as is the case these days with most new hats sold in stores, then when looking on line, one would know to focus on hats with less tapered crowns, whether new or vintage. This doesn't mean you'll always get your perfect hat, but at least you'll be moving in the right direction for yourself.

Good advice Scotty!

[Otateral]

Problem is a western hat signifies a certain lifestyle. Living in an urban sprawl and rarely ever stepping off the pavement, its difficult to pull off a western hat. Whereas a fedora symbolizes class without a specific way of life.

[Rick Blaine]

Problem is a western hat signifies a certain lifestyle. Living in an urban sprawl and rarely ever stepping off the pavement, its difficult to pull off a western hat. Whereas a fedora symbolizes class without a specific way of life.

Why not try a thin ribbon w/ a brim at or less than 2 7/8"?

That always says "L.A.- John Huston in Chinatown" to me who is strictly from back east.
Western yet urbane tho' not exclusively Urban, if you see what I mean. [huh]
It may well be that very tension between the rural & urban that appeals to me about that style, particularly when re-creased from an alpine or Cattlemans' (rural) crease to a snap brim fedora (urban),- Tho' that is likely more a subject for the "thin ribbon" thread.

[Buggnkat]

Yeah they do convey a different attitude and lifestyle when compared to the fedora. I am seeing a rebirth of the cowboy hat in cities again. Even in NOLA I see a few moving about downtown. Even in my office building there are at least 3.

[Joe Rotax]

I live in a large city and wear a straw or felt cattle hat pretty much every day - I don't really see it as having anything to do with lifestyle and I'm not at all interested in western stuff it's just that I find this kind of hat to be the best option for me in the same way that jeans and a t-shirt is practical attire for everyday. Near as I can tell I don't actually have a lifestyle...lol


Tried a fedora once but they don't work for me. One thing though, I'm this close to ordering a Stetson Range which is just a cattle hat with a 3" brim instead of 4" My concern is that the 3" brim might be too small for me - any thoughts or suggestions on that ?


http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/JoeRotax/Img_1755AA.jpg

[Derek Cavin]

I love my Stetson Gun Club, with its 3 1/4 brim. The hat looks great and I think one of the keys to wearing a hat is looking comfortable and confident in it.

[Derek Cavin]

Great hat Joe.

[scottyrocks]

A hat does not have to be a style thing. It just is for a lot of people. You, Joe, do not look like the type of person who deliberately goes after a style. That hat just plain works for you.

[Joe Rotax]

Thanks y'all.

[danofarlington]

My concern is that the 3" brim might be too small for me - any thoughts or suggestions on that ?


Try the 3", you might like it. At least it'll be style variety. I think I know which dimensions are best on me, but I like to push them and go for variety. On different days, feel different, wear different stuff, have different places to go, it just expands your toolbox.

[Buggnkat]

Joe I like the straw in the pic, it really works for you. 3 inch might still work on a fedora with your shoulders and not look too small.

One thing to keep in mind is the Cowboy hats need the bigger brims because of the tall crowns, but that balances the hat and makes things symetrical. A 3 inch brim with a not so tall crown will work I think with you face and build.

[Joe Rotax]

Try the 3", you might like it. At least it'll be style variety.

I think that's what I'm going do - it's the only way to find out and, yeah if nothing else it'll be a bit of a variation.

Going to get this one from Callister's in Utah as they seem to have the best price:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/JoeRotax/SF04116130-2_52410994_large.jpg

[hatophile]

I think that's what I'm going do - it's the only way to find out and, yeah if nothing else it'll be a bit of a variation.

Going to get this one from Callister's in Utah as they seem to have the best price:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/JoeRotax/SF04116130-2_52410994_large.jpg

Dang nice hat!

[Joe Rotax]

Joe I like the straw in the pic ...

Yeah, that's a Stetson Grant. They also make a Grant model in 4X beaver and I have one of those as well - it's the same profile as the straw near enough and pretty comfortable.

I think the crown on the Range that I'm looking at is 4&5/8 same as the Grant so we'll see how it works with that crown height and the 3" brim. Only way is to try it and maybe the smaller brim won't hit the headrest in my truck so much...lol

[Joao Encarnado]

I wear westerns with a 3 1/2 to 4" brim, on a Country were this kind of hat is not common.
I do get some compliments like "Hi cowboy" or "yeeeee haw".
I do see more people using fedoras with short brim not more wide than 2".

[ldbenj]

I found this link on the Village Hat Shop site that discusses matching hats to different facial shapes and builds. Hope this helps.

http://www.villagehatshop.com/facts_faces.html

[zetwal]

I found this link on the Village Hat Shop site that discusses matching hats to different facial shapes and builds.

I see this is your first post, Idbenj. Welcome to the Lounge ... :yo:

[The Good]

I think lately I'm still preferring a width of around 2 inches to 2 3/8 inches for a fedora. Moderate brims that are slightly narrow. My favorite fedora is 2 1/8 inches wide, although I cut it that way myself, it was originally bound and curled up (a homburg) at about 2 1/2 inches or more.

[Buggnkat]

Thats the great thing about hats, they reflect the personality of the owner. It is very seldom that two hats will look identical because of the wearers taste.

[MCGMB]

IMHO, the taller and straighter the crown, the "bigger" the entire hat looks. Think about a typical cowboy hat. Those are tall, straight crowns.

Yeah, that's true, and another issue to consider how "big" of a hat you want. The width and color of the ribbon can affect the "bigness" of the entire hat too, and by association the brim.

As has been suggested, the best route is to try on a bunch of hats, and see what looks good. But when you factor in the huge number of combinations of:

-Brim Width
-Crown height
-Crown shape
-Hat color
-Ribbon width
-Ribbon color

It's hard to find a place that has all variances. That's why I was looking for examples of hats that have wide brims, but just don't look like they're as wide as they measure. That's an independent quality of percpetion as I see it. Open Road type hats seem to fit that order very well, just wondering if there are others.

[jlee562]

There's just too many variables to really say definitively. What achieves the effect you're describing is going to be different from person to person because of their own build and face shape.