retro make-up tips and tricks

[makeupmaven]

Hello,

I am a make-up artist and love to do 40s and 50s looks. If anyone
needs any tips or has any for me I would love to hear about them.
I also develop products and can help with formulas if you need more info on ingredients.

[ITG]

What tips do you have to make a gal's makeup look distinctly 1940s or even 1930s?

[makeupmaven]

The 30s looks were concemtrated on the eyebrows, which were plucked very thin and curved toward the temple. The lips were overdrawn on the top making the bow of the lips longer to meet the sides. This was called the rosebud mouth. The colors were rosie rouge,pink or red lips and long curled eyelashes.

The 40s have more natural eyebrows, although still manicured and arched. The shadows used were neutrals, and some jewel tones like dark blue or green for evening,
Eyelashes are curled and darkened with black mascara.
The top lip is still slightly overdrawn, but not as much as in the 30s.

Colors in the 40s are true reds, bright orange reds, dark crimson red or cherry.

Both of these looks start off with a light foundation, they liked rose or pink undertones back then, a little ghostly today, and face powder to set.

Hope this helps

[Andykev]

Is that you in the B& W photo? WOW. You have captured the true period look.

Tell more, please, of yourself. You are quite attractive. And knowlegable of the art!

[ITG]

How about blush colors?

My grandmother used to (in the late 70s/early 80s) apply her blush with her lipstick (dot-dot-dot-smear together using her fingers) to create her blush. Did the ladies do that back in the 30s and 40s, or was that just some odd thing my grandmother did?

[MK]

Let's not forget the invention of pancake make-up in the forties which gave a more matte look compared to the oily make-up of the 30's.

[makeupmaven]

They did use blush, which was called rouge, in reds with pink undertones, fuchsia and bright rose colors. The rouge came in a very small compact the size of a half dollar coin with a tiny applicator round made of silk and cotton. The rouge was applied before the powder and then subdued with the white of the finishing powder. The rouges were very saturated strong colors, so they used a tiny amount on the cheeks and in the 40s blended toward the temples.

The brands around were Don Juan, Harriet Hubbard, and Coty.

I have a small collection of vintage make-up and admire the workmanship and time they put into every product.
In the 30s and 40s they did not have injection molding down to make intricate compacts and other cosmetic containers, so they used the celluloid, which was used to make records, to make lids for the small rouges and the body of the container was made from cardbord treated with wax.

Most other containers were metal or glass.

As for your grandmother, I think that was a time saving technique.
The idea of double function cosmetics did not come into play until later. Powders were very popular as a way to give you nicer skin, so they would not have blended well with the oil based lipsticks of the time.

[Bobbi B.]

ITG, in the '80s, I was using lipstick for blush, too. But I blame small purses and weird nightclub lighting!

An odd bit of vintage grooming, maybe just here in the Midwest, was that it was supposed to be bad for one's nails to use nail enamel over the moons at the base. You'd have to very carefully avoid that; girls who didn't were thought to be, well, you know. (I have never seen this manicure on any motion-picture actress of the time, another reason to suspect a regional quirk).

Getting proper vintage lipstick colors is difficult. I end up blending inexpensive Revlon shades. (Lancome used to have a couple that were close but they keep changing!) What would you suggest, Maven?

(By the way, that is some photo! You've really captured the look and the portrait style).

[The Bingstress]

Besame Cosmetics has just added a new section to their Website called "Vintage Looks," which offers tips and tricks on how to get that distinctive and glamorous 1940s style. Here's the link:

http://www.besamecosmetics.com/English/VintageLooks/VL_main.html

And here's one of the photos:
http://www.besamecosmetics.com/English/VintageLooks/images/VL_main_art_08.jpg
The company just came out with a truly stunning line of '40s inspired palettes--they even have those little half-dollar size compacts of rouge--and it's the only company I've seen besides Chanel that makes a proper "retro red" lipstick. We're awaiting a shipment of their products for our retail store, and I can hardly wait to go hog wild with the testers! :D

Hugs & blessings,
The Bingstress

[Bobbi B.]

Besame's got a wow of a website, and the products look marvelous! I may have to splurge on a new lipstick for Christmas parties.

I'd been wondering if anyone here had tried their products. Ahh, "research!" :)

[The Bingstress]

Since I run a retail store and retro website...if I buy a whole cache of "vintage-inspired" lipsticks, can I write it off as a business expense? ;)

~giggle

-The Bingstress

[Bobbi B.]

Oh, dear. Mother said I should have taken that bookkeeping class, but did I listen? Nooooo. Now I can't even figure out how to keep two sets of books!

It really is research for you, business, after all. Will the IRS understand? Would anyone in Vegas cover that bet? With (my goodness, in how many different, vintage-y shades?) all those lipsticks, proper rouges, et cetera and all ever-so right in packaging, will you even mind if the green-eyeshades guy nixes it as a deduction?

...I'm picturing the time we gave hubby's youngest niece her very first Barbie. It was less than zero unwrapping time once she realized what it was, smiling all the while. That's you with the Besame display. Some girls have all the luck!

Remember, the very best saleswomen are the ones who believe in and use the product.

[makeupmaven]

Finding the right colors is difficult. I was told that MAC had a good red called Frankly Scarlet, but I can't find that shade. It might be discontinued. As far as Revlon, they don't make a formula that has enough pigment or is matte enough to look period.

You can try blotting the color on the lips to see if it takes enough of the shine away.

I like Besame Red and Cherry Red form Besame cosmetics.
They are matte enough without drying the lips. They come in a tiny case, about 55mm tall, so you get about 3/4 the amount of product than a full size lipstick. It is worth it if you have a small purse and want to take it on the road.

Lola cosmetics has some good reds, but her formula is just too moist for my taste.

Anna Sui has good reds, you can find them at some Sephora stores. I don't think they are very matte, but the colors are good.

Price wise they are from 18 to 20 dollars each.

[Bobbi B.]

The Revlons are shiny, but blotting helps, as does a very light dusting of powder -- I usually blot excessively anyway; the way my days run, I just try to get a good, lasting stain instead of a movie-actress coat of lipcolor! I don't have a lot of chances to freshen up.

"Revlon Red," while it's too pinkish-red by itself, does a nice job of pushing their more "natural" colors in a vintage direction (lately "Deep Nude" and "Fleshtone" -- who's the sun-worshipper that names these, anyway?) It's a dimestore approach to the right look.

Really good lipsticks have always been priced at the "think twice" level, but they're worth it. When I was happier with Lancome's palette, I would try to purchase powder during their "free gift" promotions, which usually include lip color.

Holidays call for something nicer than five and dime or freebies. Besame it will be for Christmas parties!

MAC gets very positive buzz among the anchorwomen at work. My nearest department store hasn't got a MAC counter, drat! I've used Lancome pressed powder for years (one of their shades is a close match to my difficult German/Cherokee complexion) but it would be fun to experiment.

[makeupmaven]

I like Lancome powders, but the smell of the lipstick bothers me.
The scent they use is a bit flowery for me.

Do you have a favorite red color? maybe a color that has been discontinued?

[LaMedicine]

A technique with lipstick that I remember my mother and aunts using sometime in the 50s.
After applying lipstick, they'd dust it lightly with face powder and then blot.
I think the idea was, the lipstick kept longer that way.

[makeupmaven]

Yes, that helps a lot. It also makes the lipstick more matte, since it soaks up the oils.

You can also try a little foundation on the lips and then the lipstick. It makes the color truer to what it looks like in the tube.

[BombshellBeauty]

Hi there! I was wondering if you do make-up for weddings? I'm getting married in May '05, and was hoping to find someone familiar with the 40's-50's look to do my make-up, possibly my bridesmaids as well. I'm also in the LA area.
Let me know! :p
You can email me at Bombshellbride@hotmail.com if you like.

[LadyPowers]

[QUOTE=Bobbi B.]
"An odd bit of vintage grooming, maybe just here in the Midwest, was that it was supposed to be bad for one's nails to use nail enamel over the moons at the base."

Bobbi B.,

1940s Polished Nail: Basic look was a polished nail with a lefted out white half-moon and a white sliver at tip. This was trendy at the time. Those who didn't polish their nails that way did not keep up with current styles of the time. See attached picture.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/jamespowers2005/1940sNailpolish.gif

It was popular to wear nail polish according to clothes and accessories. Therefore a lot of colors were used. Especially blue-reds, brown-reds, bright reds, green, mustard yellow, black, navy blue, plum, and mauve were popular.

Regards,
Lady Powers

[babylonmall]

Just wanted to say I'm new here, and found this thread really interesting and informative! Great pictures.

Deb

[marshaellen]

i use revlon's original lipstick color, "love that red"

[mysterygal]

Let's not forget the invention of pancake make-up in the forties which gave a more matte look compared to the oily make-up of the 30's.
You can still buy pancake make-up, right? The pictures I see of 40's actresses are absolutely beautiful.
What I"ve started doing was put on a little bit of lipstick on my cheeks for blush, and then to finish the look, lightly dab on some powder blush.

[magneto]

You can still buy pancake make-up, right? The pictures I see of 40's actresses are absolutely beautiful.

For alarming some reason the max factor makeup (including the trad Pan-Cake) displays seem to have disappeared from my local drugstores! I dread to think why... :( ... I just had to buy MF Pan-Stik off Ebay after coming up empty-handed locally.


What I"ve started doing was put on a little bit of lipstick on my cheeks for blush, and then to finish the look, lightly dab on some powder blush.

Ah, now that sounds like a really useful tip, thanks! Using a little lipstick would provide shade commonality between cheeks and lips.

[fortworthgal]

I know Target and Walgreens have stopped carrying Max Factor. I used to use their 2000 Calorie mascara in Auburn and I could no longer find it! I've been able to find Max Factor at Albertson's and Wal-Mart, nowhere else. :(

[RetroMom]

I can't find Max Factor anywhere here either. I have resigned myself to ordering online, and Walgreens had the panstick makeup in most shades, including the lighter ones which are sometimes hard to find. They also sometimes offer free shipping.:)

[texasgirl]

Here's some info...

"Max factor, the cosmetics brand that once glowed from the cheeks of cinema starlets from Rita Hayworth to Marilyn Monroe, has been reduced to little more than a house brand for the decidedly unglamorous Wal-Mart.

The 97-year-old brand-with $400 million in global sales-created by the famed Hollywood makeup artist has just been delisted from Walgreens, CVS and Rite Aid as well as Target. That cuts distribution from 26,000 to 10,000 stores-more than a quarter of them Wal-Marts." Advertising Age 3/13/06

Also, you can put in your zip code and it will pull up stores in your area that carry Max Factor. For me, it's only Wal-mart and Grocery stores.

http://www.maxfactor.com/user/get/where_to_buy.do

[magneto]

Here's some info...

"Max factor, the cosmetics brand that once glowed from the cheeks of cinema starlets from Rita Hayworth to Marilyn Monroe, has been reduced to little more than a house brand for the decidedly unglamorous Wal-Mart.
...

Oh how the mighty have fallen...sniff... thanks for the "store locator" link texasgirl!
Could live without the redesign of the "new Max Factor" however...:(

[Polly]

Sorry, I'm just a newbie lurking and reading your fascinating posts, but I thought that I'd better mention (before any UK-based girlies panic at the imminent removal of Max Factor from the shelves) that Max Factor is still doing fine and dandy here in England, with no sign of being down-sized. It's currently freely available in nearly every branch of Boots or Superdrug, including the pale pan-sticks!
By the way, I don't know if you can get Bourjois makeup in the States, but my Nan used to use it during the war. She told me that she used to use their blush in Rose Ambre; a colour they still manufacture today (and which, by coincidence, I use too!). She also swore by their Soir De Paris perfume - which incidentally is also still available as a (rather pricey) limited edition at good perfumeries.

[fortworthgal]

By the way, I don't know if you can get Bourjois makeup in the States, but my Nan used to use it during the war. She told me that she used to use their blush in Rose Ambre; a colour they still manufacture today (and which, by coincidence, I use too!). She also swore by their Soir De Paris perfume - which incidentally is also still available as a (rather pricey) limited edition at good perfumeries.

Oh yes, Ulta sells Bourjois! I love their mascara. Coincidentally, I switched over to that after Target stopped carrying my beloved auburn Max Factor.

[JazzBaby]

I love Bourjois too - especially their new red nail polish, it stays shiny for ages. The packaging is really cute too. If I hadn't discovered Besame, all my makeup would be Bourjois. Interestingly, the shade Cendres de Roses Brun (blush) was the first powder blush ever manufactured, and was apparently used by the French actress Sarah Bernhardt. Interesting if true.

[LadyStardust]

Wow, aren't I the one for bringing up long forgotten topics.:p I'm in a quandry though. I want to lighten my complexion. Now this might seem a little odd, as I'm not even especially tan to begin with. However, since I do live in such a warm climate with lots of sunny days, I am darker than I would like to be. I love the fair, pale, glowing beauty of Edwardian ladies, and want to achieve that kind of tone. I do wear sunscreen almost no matter what, but still manage to always acquire more color than I want. And since I'm not yet comfortable enough to parade around everywhere with parasols(though I dearly love them) to afford even more protection, I'm reading up on home remedies and any sorts of proper lotions and powders to achieve the skin tone I want. I've come up with applying a mixture of lemon and cucmber juice as a lightener, and in terms of make-up, to use powder with zinc oxide in them. What I was wondering is if anyone here has undertaken a similar venture to share experiences, or even just if you could offer any suggestions, I would very much appreciate that. :)

[NicolettaRose]

Like another poster said, Max factor was bought out, Max factor's reletive ( I believe grandson) started a small company called Smashbox which still uses Max's techniques.

http://www.smashbox.com/

[Miss_Bella_Hell]

Wow, aren't I the one for bringing up long forgotten topics.:p I'm in a quandry though. I want to lighten my complexion. Now this might seem a little odd, as I'm not even especially tan to begin with. However, since I do live in such a warm climate with lots of sunny days, I am darker than I would like to be. I love the fair, pale, glowing beauty of Edwardian ladies, and want to achieve that kind of tone. I do wear sunscreen almost no matter what, but still manage to always acquire more color than I want. And since I'm not yet comfortable enough to parade around everywhere with parasols(though I dearly love them) to afford even more protection, I'm reading up on home remedies and any sorts of proper lotions and powders to achieve the skin tone I want. I've come up with applying a mixture of lemon and cucmber juice as a lightener, and in terms of make-up, to use powder with zinc oxide in them. What I was wondering is if anyone here has undertaken a similar venture to share experiences, or even just if you could offer any suggestions, I would very much appreciate that. :)

I used to have Pakistani roommates, who said that Noxema, when left on for 20 minutes or so, will help to remove a tan! I have no idea if it's true but they seemed convinced. They were constantly trying to have paler skin.

[goldwyn girl]

Shiseido make a range of skin lightening products called "White Lucency". I would suggest getting samples of the products first just to check for a reaction.

[Grnidwitch]

LadyStarDust,

About all you can safely do is keep using the sunscreen and avoid the sun. Instead of parasols, what about a wide brimmed had. There are some really cute ones out there.

Most of the skin lightening products on the market are quite good but understand that they could make your skin more sensative to light and other products. Since you live in a warm climate you may just be one of those people that tans easily. Genetics plays are part in that also. My grandmother battled keeping fair back in the day. Unfortunately, she was one of those that tans in the shade.

Good luck and please be careful of what you use. Remember, victorian ladies used arsenic to keep their skin white.

[Amber DeCadence]

This thread has certainly been very helpful :) I use a lot of Bourjois stuff and was told a few years ago that the people who made this brand also produce make up for Chanel so the quality is more or less the same - I dont know how true it is but it makes me smile anyway. I havent tried the Max Factor pan make up but I will give it a whirl once my foundation runs out

[mysterygal]

You may also be able to get away with wearing a foundation that's one to two shades lighter than your natural skin tone. for chest, use white talcum powder to lighten.

[Helen Troy]

I would not recommend any skin-bleaching products. As I understand, it can really harm your skin, and many of the ingredients are not healthy.

Stay with make-up instead!:)

[CanadaDoll]

Short of becoming a complete and total recluse, and living out the rest of your days in a cave, and only coming out at night.......lol :p
Go for the strongest sunscreen you can get, I use SPF 55, and wear a hat, or just go for it and use a parasol, I have a friend who does, and short of a few puzzled stares, she hasn't had any trouble.:)

[pretty faythe]

Well, ya know, there are so many people who cary around umbrellas for sun protection now, at least a parasol would be something different!

[goldwyn girl]

This thread has certainly been very helpful :) I use a lot of Bourjois stuff and was told a few years ago that the people who made this brand also produce make up for Chanel so the quality is more or less the same - I dont know how true it is but it makes me smile anyway. I havent tried the Max Factor pan make up but I will give it a whirl once my foundation runs out

Yes it's true Chanel does produce Bourjois just as Lancome is owned and made by Loreal, you will find products with similar names, Loreal trials their products under the Loreal name before releasing them as Lancome.

[Eleanor Marie]

Thanks for these tid bits of info ladies. :eusa_clap I couldn't open the original photo at the start of the thread :(

[Lady Day]

If yall ladies cam compile some good refrences (website and pics) we can add them to the sticky Classic Stlye get the look so the makeup and hair fanatics (woot!!) can have a solid set reference to look through ;)


LD