Getting Lift to your 40s hair

[ITG]

Okay gals, I was at my hairdressers yesterday. I inquired if he knew of the best way to get vintage styles to work. He gave me this long foam thing to wrap my hair around to get the lift called a foam foundation ratt. Do any of y'all use this and if not what do you do/use?

He also told me that during the war when money was tight, his mom told him that they would use old panty hose by wadding them up and wrapping their hair around the hose. I found that very interesting.

Anyone know of any good websites to show how to get 40's hair?

[Lauren]

here's great pics of vintage hairstyles by era:
http://www.lphouse.com/

and here's a bit of instruction. I have yet to master it, myself, but I'm practicing!
http://www.nocturne.com/swing/hair/hair.html

http://www.forevervintage.com/hair.html

and livejournal has a vintage hairstyles group, so you may look at their previous posts to check out pics for ideas.
http://www.livejournal.com/community/vintage_hair/

ooh, foam rats are fun. that's what's in my pompadour in my icon. just make sure you cover it all with your hair, and use lots of hairspray and pins to keep it in place!

I found that little bitty foam rollers with setting lotion works well for curls on hair that hates to curl. I leave them in for preferably 12 hours at least and blowdry the heck out of them to get them to dry. I even invested in one of those granny inflatable head cover things that hooks up to your blow dryer. I'm sure I look like something from Mars Attacks when I have it on!

[kamikat]

My beauty school teacher was an older guy who worked in shops back then. He insisted that we learn the old styles. Most of them are too hard to do on myself, but I practice on a maniquin. We didn't use rats too much as it was easier to get the look by teasing. The teased style also lasted longer. Most of the older ladies that came to the school got their hair done once a week, so the style had to last that long. Also, I think rolls weren't nearly as popular as they are with retro fans today. If you look at old fashion magazines and movies, most ladies are wearing styles made from fingerwaves and pincurls. These are really hard to do on oneself, which is why retro fans don't wear them much. Unless I'm going dancing, I don't do a real retro style. I just use haircombs to give the impression of a retro style. If you twist the side front section, then push it slightly forward before inserting the comb, it gives the allusion of a roll. I also like the foam rollers. They/re much easier to sleep on than pincurl pins.
Andrea

[Lauren]

I was actually considering going to one of these "granny" salons and getting me to do up my hair in a vintage style just for kicks, but I think I couldn't last not washing my hair for a whole week! Do you know if they wore the same hairstyle all week after they went to the dresser's? Cause that would be a whole lotta time primping if that were not the case!

I agree that rats can be a bit of a pain. The whole time I'm wearing them I'm worrying about the foam showing! I really like the idea of clips too! I may have to invest in some of those...

I do the itty bitty foam rollers in the front and brush them out halfway after they have dried cause they get nice and poofy, then turn them under, but I have never been much good at doing my hair. Oh wait! I just remembered I have a pic on my Livejournal of one a did a few weeks ago. Here ya go:
http://shopbluemagnolia.com/11.02.04.gif

[kamikat]

Your hair looks great! Yes, they did wear the same style all week. They generally sleep semi-upright with a silk scarf around their hair and just run a pick through it each morning to lift it. By the time they came in the next week, it would be so caked with hairspray from touching up each day that I would have to shampoo and rinse 2-3 times before it all came out. I'll try to get some pics of my hair in the combs. It's that way in my avatar pic, but I think the hat covers it. I don't think I'd recommend a granny salon. Most of the "granny" clients want 50's styles, which wouldn't look right with WWII clothes. It would pass with a New Look outfit, though. I can't wait until my new dress is finished so I can do that.

[The Bingstress]

Those links are fantastic!! I was already familiar with the tips on Nocturne.com (love the vintage salon photos), but I'd never heard of lphouse.com. That hairstyle timeline is really interesting, not to mention super-fun.

Regarding the foam rats, one thing they're very useful for is if you have long hair and want to do an elegant roll at the nape of your neck without using a snood. You can just comb your hair out straight, roll it either over or under the rat, and then use a gajillion pins and shelack it with hairspray to hold the roll in place. (I highly recommend Aqua Net Extra Super Hold. I used it in the '80s for my very tall, punked out 'dos, and today I find it's great to keep a complicated '40s style in place.)

I would be curious to learn the answer to kamikat's question about whether women actually wore the same hairstyle all week between trips to the hairdresser. I can see this with the shorter, tighter pincurl and fingerwave styles of the '20s and '30s--maybe they just used a lot of clips at night to hold the shape and slept with a scarf around their head. But what about the rolls of the 1940s, or the bouffant 'dos from the '60s? I can't imagine trying to recreate that look every morning but also can't fathom how one would sleep at night without flattening the hair out so much that it loses all its shape. Anyone care to chime in here?

Hugs & blessings,
The Bingstress

[kamikat]

The thing to remember is that the blowdryer didn't come on the retail market until the late 60's. If you washed your hair, you either set it at home and slept overnight in your pincurls or rollers or you went to the shop and sat under a bonnet dryer for at least 30 minutes. Your hair and scalp adapts. The less you wash, the less oil your scalp produces. Another thing to keep in mind is hats. Hats protect your hair from dust and dirt which would help keep it clean.
kamikat

[Lauren]

wow! I am so happy that vintage hairstyles are a choice! I can't imagine washing my hair out 2-3 times to get all the gunk out!

And thanks so much, Bingstress, for the tip on the nape of the neck roll with the ratt. I always wondered how they did that! My hair is longer too, so it is such a pain to make it look shorter, like the hairstyles they had back then.

Ooh, and as far as the 60's, I know my grandma sleeps in a sleeping cap, then uses a pick and LOTS of Aqua Net to hold it in place. I think that it would be hard not to get the curls to flatten out on the back when you sleep, unless you used a pillow like they did in ancient egypt!

http://www.rupertwace.co.uk/egyptian/c958_headrest.jpg

[Scarlet Belle]

Hey great info girls. I love doing my hair, though it can be hard. Ive only just recently cut a short fringe, but I can still get it up into my beloved pompadour (admitedly, a small one) another thing I have read, is that ladies kept the hair that collects in your hairbrush and matted it together or filled a stocking to make a ratt. This would get rid of the problem of seeing the foam.

I also have this great book called "1940s Hairstyles" by Daniela Turudich published by Streamline Press. They also have hair and makeup books from 1900s to the 1950s

[LaMedicine]

For the 60's do, I can tell you for sure that women had curlers in their hair every night, many slept in them, then brushed the hair out and teased them up every morning, because I was there.
Pretty uncomfortable, to be truthful....

I remember begging for a hairdryer with that b-i-i-i-g blow-out bonnet for Christmas, as soon as I felt I was old enough for it...

If you ever watch those girlie movies from the 60s, you're sure to see at least one scene with the girls in large hair curlers and sometimes scarves around their head.
With french rolls, I remember that there was a long curler that you could wind your hair onto and pin it up to hold it in shape.

Truth be told, if you ever really tried to relive these days, you'll be happy that it's much easier to keep your hair anyway you like these days, and sleep comfortably at night.

If your hair is fairly manageable, I think you might be able to get a nice effect with some hair spray and hot curlers, those pre-warmed curlers.

Good luck in your adventure, girls.

P.S. I'm going to download some of the pics I like from the sites y'all have listed, and let my hairdresser figure out how to do themLOL

[Scarlet Belle]

I just went out on my lunch break (im at work) and was looking in the local $2 shop (sells lots of cheap junky bits & pieces) and I found a snood for $4!!!!! Im so excited, the bag bit is black mesh net and it has a big black satin bow.

Another sterling lunch break find!!!

:clap

[ITG]

Well, I tried pin curls last night...they don't quite look like the ones on one of Lauren's links (I used about 50 bobby pins), but here is what I was able to do (not quite the artwork I had hoped for)....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/wickie7/Fedora%20Lounge/pincurls3.jpg

[Scarlet Belle]

Hi ITG

From experience, the only thing I would recommend with your pin curls would be to use less hair in each one and try to get the "curl" pinned firmer and closer to your head, also trying to keep each one uniform. Lots of little tight curls in a row when brushed out gently form one large curl or wave.

It really does take practice, but is well worth it as they are probably the most comfortable to sleep in. and when you get the hang of it, you will whip them up really quickly.

[ITG]

And the next morning, I took out all those Bobby pins and waa-la! I was happy with the result (My biggest fear was that I wouldn't have curl and would have to frantically wash my hair that morning before work and hope to get it dried and styled to make there on time.) One of my students asked if I had a big date tonight because my hair was all pretty (I got quite a few compliments from my students, which felt good). The curl stayed throughout most of the day, which is amazing with my thick head of hair. Here is the result (not quite 1940s but I enjoyed having a different look):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/wickie7/Fedora%20Lounge/pincurls1.jpg

[ITG]

Originally posted by Scarlet Belle
Hi ITG

From experience, the only thing I would recommend with your pin curls would be to use less hair in each one and try to get the "curl" pinned firmer and closer to your head, also trying to keep each one uniform. Lots of little tight curls in a row when brushed out gently form one large curl or wave.

It really does take practice, but is well worth it as they are probably the most comfortable to sleep in. and when you get the hang of it, you will whip them up really quickly.
Yes, that will take much practice. It's quite difficult to do on one's own hair. Do I hear the words...vintage style wig. just joking...I'm not quite that lazy. Yet.

[Lauren]

ooh! fun!

Pin curls seem soooo time consuming. I applaud your ability to do them and get fancy hairs :)

[kamikat]

Bobby pins don't keep the curls tight enough to the head for a tight curl. The best thing to use is little clips that are used to hold rigid, plastic rollers. Try looking in a beauty supply store like Sally's. To get a soft 40's look, use a boar bristle or other soft bristle brush and really brush through the curls. The look was soft wave, not individual curl that is favored today.
Andrea

[Lauren]

sooo cute! You looks so perfect for the time period!

[SHARPETOYS]

I just wish i had hair to liftLOL LOL LOL

[kamikat]

Your hair looks great! Your overall look is very authentic. That picture makes me regret that I let my stylist cut my bangs/fringe after not cutting them for nearly 6 months. The rolls just don't look the same with bangs.
kamikat

[Scarlet Belle]

Ooooo Dollface, you look adorable!!

This is me at work today, with rolls and a fringe. I too sometimes regret cutting a fringe when I do the rolls, but thats ok.

[Scarlet Belle]

And this is the back end!

[Lauren]

you guys are too cute. Now I want to go and mess with my hairs.

[ITG]

Originally posted by kamikat
To get a soft 40's look, use a boar bristle or other soft bristle brush and really brush through the curls. The look was soft wave, not individual curl that is favored today.
Andrea
Yeah, I brushed it out a bit more today and it had a much softer wave. I just enjoyed being able to get my hair to stay curled all day and have some volume going (Hot rollers last me about half a day-and that's on a good day if it's humid outside).

[Velma Kelly]

Vintage hair styles... I love to talk about that!

It's hard to decide on particular favourite but I guess I can say that my two most favourite vintage hair do's are 40's rolls and 20's water waves.

I like to pin-up my hair in the front and let it long in the back but my hair is growing like mad these days, so it becomes harder and harder for me to get proper curls or waves that last a whole day. (I'm thinking about cutting my hair a bit so it will be easier to curl but then again it will look really short and I'm all for long but curly hair plus I've never had the patienced before to get it really long.)

Here are two sample pictures of hair do's I like to wear when going out on special occasions:

http://www.velmakelly.com/gallery/velmakelly-img-0011.jpg http://www.velmakelly.com/gallery/velmakelly-img-0019.jpg


Love,
Velma

[ITG]

(I'm thinking about cutting my hair a bit so it will be easier to curl but then again it will look really short and I'm all for long but curly hair plus I've never had the patienced before to get it really long.)
Velma, I'm in the same boat...It's getting harder to roll the hair up (plus I have layered hair, which makes it harder) but yet I'm letting it grow out so I can do Princess Leia hair styles, or just plain braid it (as the layers make braiding difficult). I do like it better though when my hair is shoulder length. Oh the delemmas we women face...the guys just pick a style, stick on a hat, and go.

[jitterbugdoll]

I've never used rats--in fact, I've only found them in dark gray foam, which is hard to hide in my light blonde hair. I've made a few of my own rats though (women used to save their own hair, and stuff it into old pantyhose), but really, the best way to create perfect rolls is by back combing.

I actually have very thick hair (unusually so for a natural blonde), but by backcombing a bit, rolls can be formed without a fuss. Backcombing gives the hair more texture (needed to keep the pins from sliding out) and it forms the needed volume too (which you can adjust as you like.)

I have medium length hair, which I periodically grow out and then cut short. I can do rolls at any length though, providing my hair is layered. 1940s haircuts were layered to achieve the various looks--I found it very difficult to form nice, neat rolls when my hair was long and one length. In fact, once I got a period haircut, learning how to style rolls was a breeze!

The longest lasting set is definitely a damp set (I usually cheat and use sponge rollers, with a few pin curls at the crown), but I usually use a hot roller set called Hot Sticks. These rollers look like rubber perm rods, and they seem hotter then regular rollers. They definitely create the look of pin curl set, and they are easier to maneuver too! I find that pairing them with a good firm hairspray (Aussie Freeze is great) my hair behaves all day.

Here’s one of my rolled looks:
http://images.snapfish.com/3427%3A97523232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D3%3A%3C%3D% 3B9%3A%3DXROQDF%3E232373%3B8976%3B3ot1lsi

[ITG]

I actually have very thick hair (unusually so for a natural blonde), but by backcombing a bit
Is backcombing the same as teasing your hair? I'm not familar with the term backcombing.

In fact, once I got a period haircut, learning how to style rolls was a breeze!
What specifically did you request when you asked for a "period haircut"? Did you have any reference pics you provided to your hair stylist?

I usually use a hot roller set called Hot Sticks. These rollers look like rubber perm rods, and they seem hotter then regular rollers. They definitely create the look of pin curl set, and they are easier to maneuver too! I find that pairing them with a good firm hairspray (Aussie Freeze is great) my hair behaves all day.
How long do you let the hot sticks set in your hair for? With thick hair, do you find you have to use alot of these hot sticks?

Your hair looks real cute by the way...love the addition of the red flower.

[jitterbugdoll]

Backcombing is like teasing, with the exception that you don’t move the brush up and down/back and forth. What you do is grasp the section of hair that you want rolled, hold it straight up, and brush straight down from tip to root several times (not a lot, just enough to rough up the texture.) Backcomb the under section of the hair (the part that will be concealed within the roll) and then lightly smooth the front of the section before rolling it. From my understanding, true teasing is very damaging to the hair, but backcombing is not (and backcombing was a necessary part of styling during the 1940s-60s.)

I have shown my hairdresser the ‘1940s Hairstyles’ book, but usually I bring in a picture of a favorite 40s starlet. A good hairdresser, especially one that trained in the 1950s-60s, can look at a photo and know the hair cut behind the style. Older trained stylists are also very familiar with pin curl and finger waves sets, so they can tell you exactly how to set your hair, too (since they spent hours working on these sets, they appreciate the work that goes into the old hairstyles!) My favorite hairdresser just retired (he began his career in the 60s), but I have found another great stylist (he started out in the 70s.) The new stylist is fun because after he cuts your hair, he styles it for you, too. He’s going to give me a few 1920s Marcel wave clips of his, because he knows I love that sort of thing!

Have you seen this website? She's got a couple of pics of backcombing: http://members.tripod.com/slowdyve/Hairstyles.html

I usually leave the Hot Sticks in for around 20 minutes or so. Basically, I put them in and then eat breakfast, get dressed, and pack my lunch before work. When I am done, the rollers are cool and ready to remove. I do use the entire set (22 sticks) in order to achieve the proper set. With pin curls, sponge rollers and hot rollers, you need to roll small sections of hair in order to get a tight enough curl. Otherwise, I find I get droopy waves, or hair that is tightly curled in one area, and loose in another!

Thanks--it was a hot, humid day in July, and I was helping at a photo shoot, so a lot of the curl had fallen out. I love to use flowers—they really dress up the look (and they are great for covering up any mistakes!)

[ITG]

Backcombing is like teasing, with the exception that you don’t move the brush up and down/back and forth. What you do is grasp the section of hair that you want rolled, hold it straight up, and brush straight down from tip to root several times (not a lot, just enough to rough up the texture.) Backcomb the under section of the hair (the part that will be concealed within the roll) and then lightly smooth the front of the section before rolling it. From my understanding, true teasing is very damaging to the hair, but backcombing is not (and backcombing was a necessary part of styling during the 1940s-60s.)
That's too funny...that's what I do to my hair but I thought I was teasing it. I guess I wasn't teasing it enough (or the right way), much to the health of my hair.

[jitterbugdoll]

You know what works best for me? A round metal brush--you know, the kind you use for blow-drying your hair. The bristles are very short/dense hard plastic, and they really grip the hair.

I think the only time teasing is truly damaging is when you go for the 1980s look every day!

I also find heat styling sprays really help out hard-to-curl straight hair. I've tried "Got2B Curled Curling Spray" and liked it quite well. It really extended the life of my last haircut!

[ITG]

Jitterbug, you're full of good tips. Thanks! I'll try using my round brush next time.