skirt lengths?

[kamikat]

Where do your 40's dresses hit you? I'm making a new dress (S&S swing dress http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/) and before hemming, the skirt hits me just below mid-calf. I know I'm short, but that seems much longer than normal.

kamikat

[jitterbugdoll]

It depends on the age of the dress, but most mid-40s styles fall just below the knee on my 5'6" frame. I do have some earlier and later pieces that hit mid-calf, but I think the preferred hemline of the wartime 40s would have been just below the knee. That's actually a good length on most women, though--any longer and a petite woman can look shorter (and also, the longer hemlines can make even the shapeliest leg look less so.)

[Lauren]

Yup, during the war I think rationing helped to make hem lengths shorter. Early 40's seem to be about mid calf or to below the knee, mid 40's seem to be about below the knee or sometimes even above the knee (but I think that was mostly for the bobby soxers). And then the skirts extended to below the knee or mid calf again nearing the 1950's.

here's a link to an image from 1942 regulating garment production:
http://www.costumes.org/history/20thcent/1940s/sews4victory/WPByardstick.JPG

[Lady Day]

Ladies Ive been wondering length appropriateness via era.

Im a 40's and 50's gal, so I always go below the knee to mid calf. I was wondering if there were some exceptions to this in any era. Im just curious to see what else is avaliable. I guess Im interested in more styles of skirts as well.

Thanks ladies,

LD

[Tourbillion]

I prefer right below the knee, if I wear them really long it is too much since I am soooo tall.

Here is the definitive guide to 30's skirt lengths:

http://static.flickr.com/93/236690543_565a95011a_o.jpg

[Lady Day]

Thats a great diagram! Cool!

LD

[Rosie]

I usually do below the knee to mid calf. I just like that length, plus with my hips, :rolleyes: it just kind of balances me. The more flare a skirt, usually I can go a bit shorter. Pencils and slight flares usually come to my calf or mid calf.

[RetroModelSari]

I´m wearing below the knee or longer. :-)

[Fleur De Guerre]

I am too tall, thus bought pencil skirts and vintage etc only come to just below my knee, which is annoying. I am currently figuring out my perfect pencil skirt pattern though, and that will be a few inches below. Hooray!

[LizzieMaine]

The shortest dress I own hits right at the base of the knee -- and I keep meaning to let the hem down a bit. Most of what I wear is about two inches below the knee, although I've got a couple of dresses that go to mid-calf.

Someone once explained to me that the ideal skirt length for any woman hits just at the point where the top of the calf begins to curve inward. I wasn't consciously thinking of this when stitching my hems, but it turns out that's where most of mine hit!

[Elaina]

I have to do what's best for my body, and since I have no torso (I'm 5'6" and have a 33" inseam) I tend to look too elongated with skirts above the knees or too dumpy with calf length, so most of mine fall right below the knee, or street length.

Even capris and when I wear gauchos fall at the same line (sadly, I even have retro patterns for those from my Aunt) because of the same issue. And there's all kinds of problems with a petite torso and a tall inseam to get anything to not look out of proportion.

Elaina

[Lauren]

I prefer right below the knee, if I wear them really long it is too much since I am soooo tall.

Here is the definitive guide to 30's skirt lengths:

http://static.flickr.com/93/236690543_565a95011a_o.jpg

WHERE did you find that?! It's AMAZING!

Said she who wears her skirts below the knee or longer (with the exception of sportswear which was often above the knee)

[mysterygal]

I have two skirts that are calf length then the rest are above the knee...but not by much, no mini skirts:p

[Viola]

I'm just getting into dressing vintage, and I'm a bit worried about skirt length, because at 5'1" with a long torso, I don't want it to look like I don't HAVE legs. :eusa_doh:

My legs are actually very lean compared to my stomach (which is NOT that tiny 24-inch vintage waist) so I wouldn't mind showing them off in a vintage-y way.

[Paisley]

I read that in 1944, skirts were just above the knee because fabric was so scarce.

To answer the question, most of my skirts are knee-length; it's professional looking for work. I have good legs, but in certain lighting, short skirts make my legs look muscular. Besides, at age 37, I want a more elegant look than a mini-skirt offers.

And as I've mentioned, I tend to tear the seam on long pencil skirts. I like the look of pencil skirts, but it's not practical for me.

[ricki]

I read that in 1944, skirts were just above the knee because fabric was so scarce. Most of my skirts are this length because (a) a lot of my vintage clothes are from this period, (b) skirts that are mid-calf length make me look like I have short, fat legs, and (c) I often wear them out dancing and this length allows for more freedom (and an occasional aerial.)

[Tourbillion]

I found the diagram on ebay, but couldn't afford to win it. But the photo was free.

And Fleur, I would love to have the perfect pencil skirt pattern too. Are you going to taper it or have it be more straight?

[Miss Neecerie]

my skirts must all fall below the knee, since they hang shorter in the back then in the front (due to spinal oddity) and any shorter then below knee, the crookedness is way more visible.

Same reason why i dont wear tightly fitted skirts, the crooked is much more visible then too.

[Caledonia]

I read that in 1944, skirts were just above the knee because fabric was so scarce.

To answer the question, most of my skirts are knee-length; it's professional looking for work. I have good legs, but in certain lighting, short skirts make my legs look muscular. Besides, at age 37, I want a more elegant look than a mini-skirt offers.

And as I've mentioned, I tend to tear the seam on long pencil skirts. I like the look of pencil skirts, but it's not practical for me.

Not so much above the knee, but just on or immediately below the knee. Dior's New Look dropped skirt and dress lengths to below mid calf in 1947. This was unacceptable to a lot of women who couldn't equate the ostentation with the remaining austerity regarding rationing, and the "Little Below the Knee Club" gained 1300 members protesting against the new lengths in Dallas, Texas. I'll see if I can find the exact skirt lengths of the time. I think I posted them somewhere before. This is the war years of course for short lengths, then 47/48 for Dior's longer look. Because of the reaction the skirt lengths that hit the "high street" inspired by the New Look rose to mid calf, and this held through the late 40s/early 50s until hems started to rise mid 50s to the generally accepted top of calf curve length before the 60s moved into mini, midi, maxi etc.

And with regard to hemlines and making our skirts. The classic tailoring of a skirt hemline is that the back should be 0.5 inches longer than the hemline at the front. I guess that's to accomodate the butt and still have an even hemline! (Can see the logic and will check it out next time I do a hem). Personally I need an extra 2 inches in the front of the blouse to accommodate the bust as opposed to the butt! And a humungous 17" across the shoulders. So no vintage dresses for me with those measurements!

[Rosie]

my skirts must all fall below the knee, since they hang shorter in the back then in the front (due to spinal oddity) and any shorter then below knee, the crookedness is way more visible.

Same reason why i dont wear tightly fitted skirts, the crooked is much more visible then too.


My skirts fit shorter in back too but because of my derriere :o. When making my own skirts, I usually just make them a bit longer in back so that I have a somewhat more even hem.

[Rosie]

And with regard to hemlines and making our skirts. The classic tailoring of a skirt hemline is that the back should be 0.5 inches longer than the hemline at the front. I guess that's to accomodate the butt and still have an even hemline! (Can see the logic and will check it out next time I do a hem). Personally I need an extra 2 inches in the front of the blouse to accommodate the bust as opposed to the butt! And a humungous 17" across the shoulders. So no vintage dresses for me with those measurements!

Oh, yes, just read this.

[Caledonia]

Absolutely. And if all we powder room ladies just might be a cross section, where did they come up with the "average"!:rolleyes:

[Lady Day]

My skirts fit shorter in back too but because of my derriere :o. When making my own skirts, I usually just make them a bit longer in back so that I have a somewhat more even hem.

GIRL! I have 'Shelf Butt' too! :D If I pull my skirt up higher on my waist, things even out, but the skirt is shorter. If I just add an inch or so to the hem in the back, like you, Im golden.

LD

[DancingSweetie]

I have to do what's best for my body, and since I have no torso (I'm 5'6" and have a 33" inseam) I tend to look too elongated with skirts above the knees or too dumpy with calf length, so most of mine fall right below the knee, or street length.

Even capris and when I wear gauchos fall at the same line (sadly, I even have retro patterns for those from my Aunt) because of the same issue. And there's all kinds of problems with a petite torso and a tall inseam to get anything to not look out of proportion.

Elaina
Hey I have the same body! Except I'm only 5'4" so it is even worse looking. Forget about ever tucking in a blouse, that makes me look ridiculous.

[Elaina]

Oh I'm busty too, and because of scolosis, I have to wear a corset which makes the whole chest MUCH worse then it should be.

I think I quit tucking in shirts years and years ago. Unless I'm wearing a jacket, and then that hides a multitude of sins.

Elaina

[Elle]

My full skirts and dresses go to mid-knee or lower. Most of my pencil skirts hit about the top of my knee as everyone at work dresses waaaay casual, I'd feel much too out of place if they were longer.

[Fleur De Guerre]

I found the diagram on ebay, but couldn't afford to win it. But the photo was free.

And Fleur, I would love to have the perfect pencil skirt pattern too. Are you going to taper it or have it be more straight?

I'm going to taper it a bit. It's more flattering on me as my hips are wideish. But if I wear a pencil skirt with too much taper I end up late for work because I can't walk fast enough. Or I split the seam by taking too long strides! lol

[Honey Doll]

I prefer to wear my skirts just past the knee to maybe 2 inches past the knee. I find this to be the most flattering. If I go to mid-calf, I'm just swimming in it.

Never really thought about tailoring a couple inches on the back-side. If anything I suffer from no-butt-disease. I think its hereditary.

Honey Doll

[Daisy Buchanan]

I like to have my skirts just below the knee too. I'm only 5'1, and my legs are more like stumps. I find just below the knee to be the most flattering. Anything longer, and what legs I have look even shorter. I also look better in an "A" line skirt rather than a pencil skirt, or a skirt which is too full which tends to make me look heavier than I am.

[DancingSweetie]

Oh I'm busty too, and because of scolosis, I have to wear a corset which makes the whole chest MUCH worse then it should be.

I think I quit tucking in shirts years and years ago. Unless I'm wearing a jacket, and then that hides a multitude of sins.

Elaina
I too am busty, so I look like a big cube if I were to tuck in a blouse. I always thought I should have a few ribs removed to give the illusion of a longer waist.

[crwritt]

Where do your 40's dresses hit you? I'm making a new dress (S&S swing dress http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/) and before hemming, the skirt hits me just below mid-calf. I know I'm short, but that seems much longer than normal.

kamikat
I'm just curious as to how your dress came out, and what you thought of that pattern. Reading your post, I was inspired to order it, and have it nearly finished in a black and white linen rayon blend.
I did find that the skirt back sections were cut about 1 1/2 " shorter than the front. Good thing I needed to shorten it anyway.
I have not decided on sleeve length. I am used to sleeveless, since most of my dresses are for dancing, but I sewed up the 3/4 version for this dress. What length did you choose for the sleeves?

[Snookie]

Ooh, I hope you post pictures when you're done - I'd love to see it! Your fabric sounds really nice.

I try to get my skirts to fall right below my knee, right in that section where the leg is at its thinnest. I agree with Lauren's earlier comment that a shorter skirt is a more youthful look, so you can take that into consideration too.

I used to go for sleeveless/short sleeves for dance clothes for the comfort, too, but for the last couple years I've been doing the longer versions. I think it's much more period accurate.

What an odd thing about those pattern pieces. Have you looked at any pattern review sites to see if other people had the same complaint?

[Lady Day]

I knew there were more threads on this topic, enjoy :)

LD

[crwritt]

I think I will check Sense and Sensibility"s website, I know she has a page of "Corrections" to her patterns, It may be that I overlooked it. The fit of her patterns is very good.
Here's a photo of the dress, not hemmed yet, the sleeves are just turned up to 3/4 length.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb211/crwritt/IMG_0289-1.jpg

[Snookie]

Ooh, thats lovely! I like it alot. It does have a good fit, and I think the sleeve length is great. Perfect for a pair of gloves or a dazzling stone bracelet. Or both!

I like the skirt length on you, too. I wouldn't wear my skirts that long, but it's really flattering. I like that you hemmed it below the widest part of your calf.

Great pose, too!:)

[crwritt]

When its done, it will be a wee bit shorter, since I haven't hemmed it yet. Probably just an inch or so shorter. We're having a minor heat wave this weekend, so I will save it for cooler weather.
I like how the dress fits, it kind of accentuates the bust and slims the waist at the same time.