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mikespens
03-09-2013, 06:30 PM
Beautiful Tonak refurb Garret.

Garrett
03-10-2013, 12:59 PM
Thanks, it came out nicely. Was surprised how nice the felt is on a post-war velour. Then again, it was made at the Huckel plant!

Chepstow
03-11-2013, 06:40 AM
Garrett, outstanding hat, fantastic work from Optimo. Looks like new, the good one!

Chepstow
03-15-2013, 08:54 AM
Mayser arrived today. Wow what a great hat. I am very suprised about condition and shape!
Top condition, no stains and no dust! It's a Mayser Superbe. The shape looks like a Homburger. My guess, mid 50s!
By the way, I bought the same Echter Mayser Superbe again today. The difference to that is the liner and sweatband. The color is the same, my guess!
But that is a other Story, photos if he arrives.

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6233/maysersuperbe6.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5571/maysersuperbe7.jpg

alanfgag
03-15-2013, 09:17 AM
:eusa_clap Really nice, Manfred.

mayserwegener
03-15-2013, 10:03 AM
Manfred, Great that it turned out to be as good as we thought! It has some interesting binding work. Can you take a close up? It sure is a beauty!

Chepstow
03-15-2013, 10:20 AM
Alan and Steve, thank you very much.
Here a close up from underside, upper side the same stitching.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8592/maysersuperbe8.jpg

kolchak
03-15-2013, 11:02 AM
I love the form of the brim. I can't really explain exactly, but that color light brown is very German - hardly any reddish tone to it at all. Such a beautiful hat!

mikespens
03-15-2013, 11:31 AM
Superbe Manfred! Congrats, the condition is amazing.

Chepstow
03-15-2013, 11:56 AM
Mike, thank you my friend, your words are much appreciated. I have an other Mayser superbe on the way to me.
Maybe it's the same hat or nearly the same hat with a different sweatband and lining. I could be interesting.

Chepstow
03-16-2013, 07:08 AM
Some photos of the Mayser Superbe with brim down!

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9760/maysersuperbe13.jpg

yttclothing
03-19-2013, 11:33 AM
So after waiting for a couple of months I finally got another delivery again post was absolute junk but then i found this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8572764168_c140f82a33_z.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8572763466_821f7653fa_z.jpg

Its in amazing condition(considering all my hats come piled in together in 1 box), a lovely homburg, looks unworn, stitched lining, is it 60s 70s?

Wegner Super?

mayserwegener
03-19-2013, 12:04 PM
Beautiful Homburg! I would say very early 60s. Wegener had great detail work.

kolchak
03-19-2013, 12:10 PM
Beautiful Homburg!

Chepstow
03-20-2013, 09:35 AM
Beautiful Homburg!

+1

Chepstow
03-20-2013, 09:48 AM
The Big Deal?
I bought 4 unworn and new old stock German hats. All are open Crown.
Two are Velour in Size 53 and 56 and two felt size 53 and 56.
My guess from the mid 40s to the early 50s.
Also new to me the second Mayser Superbe in Dark Brown from the 60s.
The Sweatbands are stiff and dry out over the years.The Quality of the Velour is good. The brown Prima Haarhut has a very stiff felt and has a bit longer hair.
The Rockel Velour
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1764/rockelvelour5.jpg

The Prima Haarhut
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/4262/primahaarhut4.jpg

The small size 53 Velour, with some moth bites.
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4897/erockel2.jpg

The Prima Haarhut size 53, with some moth bites.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6342/prima5.jpg

Mayser Superbe 1960
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/7769/maysersuperbedunkel4.jpg
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2567/maysersuperbedunkel5.jpg

yttclothing
03-20-2013, 10:33 AM
I found this Rockel the outside is nothing that special although in a nice condition but the lining is super! Haven't seen a hat silk so colourful! Not that old says made in W Germany so pre 89
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_0142_1024x1024.jpg?676
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_147_1024x1024.jpg?676

mayserwegener
03-20-2013, 11:07 AM
Manfred, Great haul! I really like the look of the Rockel Prima Haarhut and ribbon design. Also great colors with the Rockel Velours. You see such styles in the late 30s but they have to be later. I am looking forward to receiving mine. The Mayser Superbe is super! I really like the felt color. I don't believe I have seen a Roman numeral used like that on a sweatband date stamp.

Paddy, Nice Rockel Trachtenhut! That is some liner! My guess is late 70s - 80s.

Chepstow
03-20-2013, 11:14 AM
Steve, thanks. I look forward to your Rockel. I believe it's the RA Velour.
Have you noticed the special stitching at the sweatband?

mayserwegener
03-20-2013, 11:41 AM
Manfred, Yes it's the RA Echter Rockel Velour. The sweatband stitching on the 56cm Velour is unique (my RA Echter Rockel Velour has it too). The 53cm Velour looks more typical. The offset of the sweatband to the liner on 58cm Velour is also unique. Does liner align with the ribbon?

mikespens
03-20-2013, 11:50 AM
Nice haul Manfred!

Chepstow
03-20-2013, 12:16 PM
Steve, " Does liner align with the ribbon? " I don't know.

Mike, thank you very much my friend!

mayserwegener
03-20-2013, 12:24 PM
Steve, " Does liner align with the ribbon? " I don't know.



Sorry I meant the bow. :) It looks that way by the crease.

Also I looked closer at the sweatband stitch work on the 56cm Velour. It also has the more typical stitching along with the unusual stitching so double stitched.

mayserwegener
03-24-2013, 09:29 PM
WW1 era Oberoesterreichische Hutindustrie. Austrian import and comes with the CLOCKWISE nap typical of pre-WW2 Austrian/German longhairs. Art Fawcett put a wide black sweatband in (with matching gold pipe trim) as the hat didn't come with one. Everything else is original. Sadly, no tags to be found under the liner.


http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w342/CWON1/IMG_1192_zpsc48ecef1.jpg
http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w342/CWON1/IMG_1194_zps00668a66.jpg
http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w342/CWON1/IMG_1196_zps0813ccec.jpg
http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w342/CWON1/IMG_1197_zpsabb384ea.jpg

I believe this hat was made by Velour-Hutfabrik Carl Blum, Wels, Austria (Blum-Velour). I found the marke when looking through some of my documentation.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8087/8587581297_e59c1dbdec_o.jpg

Garrett
03-24-2013, 09:39 PM
Fantastic, I was always curious who really made it. Thanks for solving this one, Steve!

mayserwegener
03-24-2013, 09:57 PM
Garrett, Carl Blum was a famous Austrian Velour factory (finished hats and stumpen). This is a rare one!

delectans
03-24-2013, 09:58 PM
The Big Deal?
I bought 4 unworn and new old stock German hats. All are open Crown.
Two are Velour in Size 53 and 56 and two felt size 53 and 56.
My guess from the mid 40s to the early 50s.
Also new to me the second Mayser Superbe in Dark Brown from the 60s.
The Sweatbands are stiff and dry out over the years.The Quality of the Velour is good. The brown Prima Haarhut has a very stiff felt and has a bit longer hair.


Quite the Motherlode of furry Teutonic lids, Manfred. Ausgezeichnet! :eusa_clap

mayserwegener
03-24-2013, 10:21 PM
Palatin, Black, size 59cm. This fantastic hat belongs to the seller of the Gloria Back Bow hat that I recently won. The seller said her father wore this hat on his wedding day (1950). It doesn't appear to have had side dents which is also the case with the Gloria Back Bow. Unfortunately there is no company mentioned on the paper label and I couldn't identify the Palatin liner mark.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8093/8587652493_ea3ca347d6_o.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8588750990_215a82bd7d_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8588762606_857f542937_o.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8588743776_74630aee70_o.jpg

delectans
03-25-2013, 04:35 AM
Outstanding hat, Steve!

Chepstow
03-25-2013, 08:40 AM
Al, thanky you my friend. I think it was a good deal with all the hats. A pity that two hats are so small.

Steve, that is a fantastic hat the Palatin! The shape is the same as the Gloria.

mayserwegener
03-25-2013, 09:43 AM
Al & Manfred, Thanks! It was nice of the seller to take / send the photos for posting.

Chepstow
03-25-2013, 09:47 AM
Steve, you are considering to buy it?

mayserwegener
03-25-2013, 12:06 PM
Manfred, She didn't say anything about putting it up for auction. I would definitely be interested if she decides to sell or put it up for auction.

mayserwegener
03-25-2013, 10:30 PM
Manfred posted these great photos at my website.

Hut Marken of German Hat Makers and Retailers!

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/8443/hutmarken.jpg

splintercellsz
03-25-2013, 11:22 PM
Garrett, that velour is stellar! Awesome!!!!

Manfred, I must say, you sure aquired some great looking lids!

Mayser, I really like the looks of that Palatin

rlk
03-26-2013, 07:20 AM
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tPTXBJbpx3w/UVC7mt3CgII/AAAAAAAAMGw/qYC5owhAcZ0/s800/P1060220.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2FzmEK2ZoSM/UVGouXwCviI/AAAAAAAAMIk/quWgOD39sM4/s640/P1060224.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9pArYl9EP4M/UVDHvnKj2yI/AAAAAAAAMIo/ALd1fUw5kHs/s640/P1060223.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-238Tel5kaDU/UVC7irs0HJI/AAAAAAAAMG4/99dFIpCb_lQ/s640/P1060218.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NeCF5RWtWyY/UVGqzgH9xJI/AAAAAAAAMI0/s_jTT7CuAC8/s640/P1060226.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZmrxPa7I-Bg/UVDHu2tyRjI/AAAAAAAAMHw/hbD0P7GGQNg/s640/P1060222.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-biUhw0n17e4/UVDDtmU42ZI/AAAAAAAAMHc/crhqtdml3ao/s640/P1060221.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XFqHbB4wDWQ/UVC7IzClMPI/AAAAAAAAMIQ/2htHgDjXlaA/s640/P1060216.JPG

Chepstow
03-26-2013, 08:16 AM
Justin, many thanks! Yes there are a few nice hats.

Robert, that is an wonderful Velour Homburger! A great find.

splintercellsz
03-26-2013, 08:51 AM
Robert, that is a nice one!

mayserwegener
03-26-2013, 10:59 AM
Robert, Such a beautifully made hat! Again Congrats!

mikespens
03-26-2013, 11:13 AM
Spectacular workmanship on that one Robert.

Garrett
03-26-2013, 11:53 AM
and it fits! Great score and great price :eusa_clap

mayserwegener
03-27-2013, 03:10 PM
Keuthen Essen Homburg, listed size 59-60cm, early 1950s maybe older. This doesn't belong to me (I forgot to bid) but the auction photos were good and it's a really great Homburg. Fantastic color combinations and unique sweatband. I am not sure if Keuthen Essen was a shop or maker.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8596548466_fa4f498906_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8595445253_39de257f9f_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8596547514_0bc43aae21_b.jpg

Chepstow
03-27-2013, 09:17 PM
Steve, a nice Homburger with an unique sweatband. Keuthen, my guess, will be the retailer!

mayserwegener
03-28-2013, 03:55 AM
Manfred, I agree. Another mystery hat!

kolchak
03-28-2013, 06:33 AM
That's a very cool Hat.

I have a question for the authorities - what is considered exactly a 'true' Homburg brim. I have seen many styles and variations on hats calling themselves Homburgs, from those with an almost bowler like d'Orsay with a curved brim to stright and flat with a sharp straight upturned edge - like some older U.S. styles. The 'Godfather hat' style: Is it more so that that was the Homburg version Pacino wore in the film and has since become synonymous with the Homburg style and the older variations faded somewhat or did the film repopularize the traditional classic 'true' Homburg?

If I look at this picture of Anthony Eden, I am looking at what would be considered the classic Homburg shape, yes? Or did he also just popularize that particular style Homburg?
http://i46.tinypic.com/sn1au1.jpg

Chepstow
03-28-2013, 09:11 AM
kolchak, I would say that is the classical look of a Homburg ( without dents )

kolchak
03-28-2013, 10:49 AM
Vielen Dank Manfred

I have to tread lightly as my comment about wearing a Homburg was not well received here. lol

mayserwegener
03-28-2013, 11:17 AM
I have never seen the name "Homburg Hut" used in pre 1940 German or Austrian hat related publications. This style of soft felt hat is definitely of German / Austrian origin. It came from the Continent to America and England. What was called a Fedora (also a term not used in Germany or Austria at that time) in America at the turn of last century would be considered a Homburg today. At that time there was little difference between a Homburg and a Fedora (also called Alpine). Here are a couple of threads you might want to take a look at.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?48956-Fedoras-in-the-19th-Century.&

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?49010-Fedoras-first-decade-of-the-20th-Century

In my opinion most people today have no idea about the history of the Homburg hat. I wear them in both casual and more formal settings. With and without side dents. It's really up to individual taste. Now Top hats are a different story. :)

By the way I am not a strict vintage dress person. I think most that post in the Hat forum fall into the same category.

kolchak
03-28-2013, 12:35 PM
I have never seen the name "Homburg" used in pre 1940 German or Austrian hat related publications. This style of soft felt hat is definitely of German / Austrian origin. It came from the Continent to America and England. What was called a Fedora (also a term not used in Germany or Austria at that time) in America at the turn of last century would be considered a Homburg today. At that time there was little difference between a Homburg and a Fedora (also called Alpine). Here are a couple of threads you might want to take a look at.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?48956-Fedoras-in-the-19th-Century.&

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?49010-Fedoras-first-decade-of-the-20th-Century

In my opinion most people today have no idea about the history of the Homburg hat. I wear them in both casual and more formal settings. With and without side dents. It's really up to individual taste. Now Top hats are a different story. :)

By the way I am not a strict vintage dress person. I think most that post in the Hat forum fall into the same category.

Thank you! Very informative threads.

I am not a vintage dresser at all (way too lazy) but do wear a suit on the job a fair amount and I work outside a lot and with it have the opportunity to match hats.

mayserwegener
03-28-2013, 12:50 PM
What is interesting is when Edward VII brought back the Homburg hat (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) it was considered an informal style hat.

King Edward VII (1902)

http://www.rvondeh.dircon.co.uk/plesshtmlimages/3675.jpg

As you can see Edward's Homburg had more tapper and was worn in a casual setting (based on the time period and his standing). Also the brim curl is more German. Later it takes on a more of stiff felt look and becomes more formal (see Anthony Eden).

This is the first mention of the style as a Homburg Hat that I have run across in a German or Austrian publication of the late 19th or early 20th centuries. The use of English is directed towards export markets. I found this in the September 2, 1899 edition of Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung. Moeckel was the original maker of the Homburg hat for Edward VII.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7616247768_f250b18a42_b.jpg

Rare PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe Melone from the time period. I have never come across an old Möckel Homburg (would be a Holy Grail Find).

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8192769065_4baea04fc6_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8192777605_067e701cd4_b.jpg

splintercellsz
03-28-2013, 03:27 PM
This beauty just arrived, and more photos can be seen here (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?28145-Post-New-Hats-Here!&p=1609281&viewfull=1#post1609281).

Pre-WWI Peschel Velour, that was being refurbished by Art Fawcett. He put a new sweatband in it, and added a bow. Amazing work!

This has has already risen to be a favorite, but I really need to work on how to make the side-dents.

http://i72.servimg.com/u/f72/16/47/33/42/10310.jpg

mayserwegener
03-28-2013, 06:49 PM
Looks fantastic! Rare to find one in other than black. I checked the other photos. It originally had a liner. Does it still have a paper label? What size is it and where did you get it from? Super!

splintercellsz
03-28-2013, 07:13 PM
Thank you, Mayser!! Sadly, there is no label. Art sized it up to a 7 1/4 for me, and it fits perfectly!! I recieved it from Rlk awhile back! Such a great hat! Any ideas on how to properly do side dents, or what look would be best for this hat?

mayserwegener
03-28-2013, 07:48 PM
I thought it looked familiar. I would give it a a heavy steam and brush it with the nap. There is a mark from the old crease that you are going to have to live with (heavy steam with brush against the nap might help). It would have been worn brim up so I think your current setup is fine (although I think it would work ok snapped). I would probably lower the side dents some but that is personal taste.

Here is a A. Peschel of mine that is from around 1920 that was restored by Optimo. I think it works well both brim up and brim down but it has less brim flange.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4859863909_41fc7af4de_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4860483222_4d8ee78624_b.jpg

Chepstow
03-28-2013, 09:52 PM
Justine, congrats to that beauty Velour. The shape looks good, a good dose steam as Steve says should help for the side dents!

Chepstow
03-29-2013, 01:45 AM
What is interesting is when Edward VII brought back the Homburg hat (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) it was considered an informal style hat.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7616247768_f250b18a42_b.jpg



This is a photo of an Möckel Homburger, shown at the Stadtmuseum Bad Homburg. The typical gray Homburg! I don't know, is it a similar exemplar of the King Edward Homburger.
http://www.taunustipp.de/tl_files/taunustipp/Panoramen/Erlebniswelten/Ausflugtipps_Bilder/Hutmuseum/Homburghut_1.jpg

mayserwegener
03-29-2013, 08:07 AM
Yes I believe that is a Möckel. It definitely has the look of Edward's Homburg.

Chepstow
03-29-2013, 09:51 AM
Nice Video found from Lindenberg!" How we made a hat "!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rk_ZiwSqE24&feature=player_detailpage

hatmaker Andreas Nuslan


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4oZbvih9X0&feature=player_detailpage


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvQxMw60jHg&feature=player_detailpage

mayserwegener
03-29-2013, 10:19 AM
Manfred, Great videos! The metal form production process is especially interesting in the first Mayser - Lindenberg video. I assume they still make the blocks and forms in Germany. I wish I had visited Mayser before they closed the hat production factory and moved it to Slovakia. I have visited HutKoenig Regensburg a few times. Really fantastic old shop (very interesting Trachten hats) but very expensive.

Chepstow
03-29-2013, 10:56 PM
I remeber me that you have a hat from Hutkönig. Here is another great Video!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx0JP4OS46c&feature=player_detailpage


Shmuel Shapira Wien, for one hat individually for the customer up to 2000 EUR.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRdWQfrsvaM&feature=player_detailpage


Hutmacher mit Chuzpe The Borsalino with the widest brim what I have ever seen!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aHI2Z-tdg0&feature=player_detailpage

yttclothing
03-30-2013, 01:54 AM
Just took this for one of our listings, thought it was a nice little photo, All small hats 54-55 from about the 70's I would guess ,mostly German ones Huckel so Austrian nothing of great value or interest but together I thought they looked really nice.

http://24.media.tumblr.com/75a712797e8c48307764a9cb99e501f0/tumblr_mkgtvzRAy51rhew5eo1_1280.jpg

Chepstow
03-30-2013, 03:26 AM
I remeber me that you have a hat from Hutkönig. Here is another great Video!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx0JP4OS46c&feature=player_detailpage


Shmuel Shapira Wien, for one hat individually for the customer up to 2000 EUR.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRdWQfrsvaM&feature=player_detailpage


Hutmacher mit Chuzpe The Borsalino with the widest brim what I have ever seen!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aHI2Z-tdg0&feature=player_detailpage


Looks nice, a pity that are all to small!

mayserwegener
03-30-2013, 09:55 AM
Just took this for one of our listings, thought it was a nice little photo, All small hats 54-55 from about the 70's I would guess ,mostly German ones Huckel so Austrian nothing of great value or interest but together I thought they looked really nice.

Nice photo! Actually the Hückel's are German. They were made in Weilheim, West Germany. Personally I think of Hückel as a Austrian - Germany company up to the end of WWII even though the main factory location became part of Czechoslovakia after WWI. After WWII you have two companies marketing hats with the Hückel brand name. TONAK (JHS nationalized and the Hückel family expelled) in Czechoslovakia and Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim (financed by Fritz Hückel last owner of JHS) West Germany (in Germany only). Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim went out of business in the early 1970s and TONAK still markets hats under the Hückel name to the Orthodox & Hasidic communities.

mayserwegener
03-30-2013, 10:01 AM
Manfred, Thanks for posting the additional videos. In the FerStyle video does it mention the origins of the factory in Budapest? I couldn't make out it if it was a factory during the communist era that they took over or if they bought equipment from prior communist era factories. Interesting to see they have hat production in Israel too.

kolchak
03-30-2013, 09:29 PM
Thanks - Great videos! and just in time for the holidays ;-)


Manfred, In the FerStyle video does it mention the origins of the factory in Budapest? I couldn't make out it if it was a factory during the communist era that they took over or if they bought equipment from prior communist era factories.

Looks like Ferster started this factory in a suburb of Budapest. The commentator says off the cuff that it looks more like a Soviet era Submarine than a modern factory lol

mayserwegener
03-31-2013, 08:15 AM
Thanks!

Chepstow
04-01-2013, 02:28 AM
kolchak, thats right! That is what I guess too.

Chepstow
04-01-2013, 08:22 AM
I have found a Vintage German Sauerland Cap on the fleamarket today. I guess it is from the 60s Has a leather sweatband.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1806/sauerlandcap4.jpg

mayserwegener
04-02-2013, 02:25 PM
Manfred, Great find!

mayserwegener
04-02-2013, 02:29 PM
EMS "Gloria" Backbow, measures 59cm, 6 3/8 inches! Open Crown, 2 1/2 inches brim, 1935. It came with a crease clip (Excelsior) and the original hat shop bag (H. Moeller Marburg). The felt (Ferrum) and ribbon (Veilchen) colors are very unique (both Violets). Same with the felt finish and hand (very malleable). I had trouble photographing it (looks much better). I wasn't able to find anything on EMS. I would like to thank Manfred for pointing me to this gem!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8120/8614866994_6465f47c5c_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8613755423_ed59353841_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8400/8613768011_46c07bb1fb_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8240/8614886886_9644124843_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8614896886_96e3f87562_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8611319680_0e22a97ef7_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8256/8611319064_c645fe06d4_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8583828954_949af0923a_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8394/8611313520_eb7fe4b9be_b.jpg

kolchak
04-02-2013, 05:00 PM
EMS "Gloria" Backbow, measures 59cm, 6 3/8 inches! Open Crown, 2 1/2 inches brim, 1935. I wasn't able to find anything on EMS.

The hat was sold in Marburg in Hessen not far from Bad Ems in Rheinland-Pfalz. Ems must refer to the town, no? Like Bad Homburg vor der Höhe. So just 'Ems' - like 'Homburg.' Is this a style or the manufacturer?

kolchak
04-02-2013, 05:01 PM
Looks really cool btw!

mayserwegener
04-02-2013, 05:17 PM
Thanks! You could be correct. I will see if I can find a Hutfabrik in Bad Ems. They could also be the initials of the company (this was common in Germany). I searched through my documents but couldn't find anything that matched the initials E. M.S..

Chepstow
04-02-2013, 08:10 PM
Steve, that are wonderful photos of the Gloria. This hat is a dream. Congrats my friend!

mayserwegener
04-02-2013, 10:22 PM
Manfred, Thank you for the assist!

kolchak
04-03-2013, 05:23 AM
Thanks! You could be correct. I will see if I can find a Hutfabrik in Bad Ems. They could also be the initials of the company (this was common in Germany). I searched through my documents but couldn't find anything that matched the initials E. M.S..

I have been looking at a lot of documentation and ... found nothing at all in Bad Ems :mad:

Maybe it refers to the river Ems in Niedersachsen? Looks like there were hat factories there in the towm of Leer for example. Wikipedia states that as early as 1763 there were as many as four in Leer which apparently was a textile center.

map of the river Ems and neighboring towns. Maybe you recognize a factory from one of these places? -

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Emsverlauf.png

mayserwegener
04-03-2013, 06:29 AM
I will have to see what I can find for that area. I have some digital copies of Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung and Der Deustche Hutdetailist prior to WWI (the later editions are still under German copyright ) but they are not searchable (have to do it by eye). I also have a list of German hat companies from American Hatter Trade Directory (1911) that RLK found (Robert). Maybe if you have time you could stop by the archives in Berlin (see below) and see if you could find a list of hat factories in Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung and Der Deustche Hutdetailist (they might have some other sources).

Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin 350
Benutzungsabteilung - Schriftliche Auskunft -
Unter den Linden 8, 10102 Berlin
Tel.: (030) 266-433 966
FAX: (030) 266-333 701

E-Mail: schriftl.ausk.h1@sbb.spk-berlin.de

yttclothing
04-11-2013, 07:40 AM
I'm guessing this is German or Austrian as the word Hut is a dead give away but I've never seen ERES before

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8239/8640609132_99cc8636ce.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8640608036_97dc35fdb1.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8639506119_588b049814.jpg

Another that didn't fit me, hopefully more in the next delivery !

Chepstow
04-11-2013, 08:01 AM
ytt, The sweatband looks nearly new, I think it's not very old! The brand, I have never heard before. Could be a retailer brand.
But your'e right, it's a hat from germany!

mayserwegener
04-11-2013, 08:07 AM
I haven't heard of ERES. It could be a model name or store. Is there a paper label? I really like the ribbon. I would guess early 60s. Is the liner stitched or glued?

yttclothing
04-11-2013, 08:20 AM
I haven't heard of ERES. It could be a model name or store. Is there a paper label? I really like the ribbon. I would guess early 60s. Is the liner stitched or glued?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8640713778_0a50df708c.jpg

Its a glued liner I thought 60's as well most of the hats in that delivery seemed to date to the 60's or 70's

mayserwegener
04-11-2013, 09:10 AM
Thanks! It appears ERES is actually a hat company. I will have to see if I can find anything on them. It's probably mid 60s into the early 70s.

Chepstow
04-11-2013, 09:28 AM
Yes that's my guess! 70s is a good time fo that hat. I can nothing find about ERES. It's a Fashion Label for clothes? Probably not

http://www.thelabelfinder.de/labelsuche/eres-menswear/index.php/label/view/23089

Found that! Registered trademark!
http://www.tmdb.de/de/marke/ERES,DE1166028.html

This factory has a own house brand with name ERES
The company Wilhelm Blicker & Co. was a gentleman clothing factory in Karlsruhe.
contents

1 History
2 Trade register
3 Web
4 Footnotes

history

The company was founded in 1919 as a clothing factory, and Mr. had his seat in the 62nd Vorholzstrasse [1] Under the brand name "Blico" were woolen coats, gabardine coats and trench coats made​​.

In 1933 the company was named "William Blicker & Co. Limited Liability Company" is entered in the commercial register.

After the Second World War it was briefly in Lessingstraße 37a [2] and then again in the 62nd Vorholzstrasse By 1960 the factory moved to the Lord clothes Brauerstraße 8 [3]

In 1975, Wilhelm Blicker special coat factory of the Herford "FW Brinkmann GmbH bought out "and converted in 1976 in a limited partnership.

1984, the company paid for the second time Olympian and accompaniment from [4].

In the northwestern city of 1994, a new production and administration building at Watt Road 15 was obtained.

2008, the Karlsruhe site has been closed and the operation of Eduard Dressler adopted.

Horst Wellensiek is eliminated
After last seven years at the bugatti Holding Brinkmann Wellensiek Horst leaves the company on 31.03.2011. A total of 46 years experience Wellensiek can boast in the fashion industry. Born in Westphalia increased in 2004 as general manager of specialized coats and sportswear company Blicker Wilhelm GmbH & Co. KG in Karlsruhe and led there initially 133 employees. After termination of the license agreement licensor Burberry and Daks the company has been abandoned for 31 March 2009.

The former Clued-brand "Eres" was from Autumn / Winter 2009 at the dressier clothing factories, Brinkmann GmbH & Co. KG, Großostheim, continued under the direction of Horst Wellensiek. Since the brand Eres expired with the Fall / Winter 2010, have to urinate Horst Wellensiek.

"With heart and soul I have directed the company, but unfortunately let the revenue loss is a continuation of the company for economic reasons not to," said Wellensiek. The 61-year-old is looking forward now to a new stage of life and emphasizes that ", the car slows' in the future and allows me to invest healthy and free time in private."

kolchak
04-12-2013, 04:08 AM
The labels thing can get so confusing here in Germany - here one day and gone the next or renamed. I have a hard time finding certain affordable suit brands that I like.

Whereas in the states the brand names seem to stick around and it is the factories and manufacturing that get switched with regularity. When I buy Van Heusen dress shirts in LA, I have to literally look on the label to see where they are from (some come from Viet Nam, some Taiwan, some Honduras etc) to make sure they are the ones I like!

Chepstow
04-12-2013, 04:47 AM
The labels thing can get so confusing here in Germany - here one day and gone the next or renamed. I have a hard time finding certain affordable suit brands that I like.

Whereas in the states the brand names seem to stick around and it is the factories and manufacturing that get switched with regularity. When I buy Van Heusen dress shirts in LA, I have to literally look on the label to see where they are from (some come from Viet Nam, some Taiwan, some Honduras etc) to make sure they are the ones I like!

:D

mayserwegener
04-12-2013, 08:40 AM
The use of hat company initials on paper labels and liners is also problematic.

kolchak
04-15-2013, 05:21 AM
The use of hat company initials on paper labels and liners is also problematic.

I'm realizing how difficult it is. I will try to make it to the Staatsbibliotek to poke around.

mayserwegener
04-15-2013, 06:39 AM
That would be great if you could take a look.

yttclothing
04-17-2013, 05:42 AM
Had a very small delivery yesterday of just 8 hats apparently "Grade A" one was a nice homburg which has a massive slice out of it another was an unbranded hat which had been completely ruined by moths needless to say not the "Grade A" I had paid for, but the saving grace was this, It was incredibly creased so I've tried my novice best with steam to sort it out, not perfect but ok. I didn't want to try and perfect the hat as I would prefer to use a hat that was in worse condition but here it is a nice Huckel Elephant grey fedora stitched liner so I was thinking early 60's?
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_149_1024x1024.jpg?896
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_0149_1024x1024.jpg?896

I have a large delivery tomorrow so fingers crossed for some gems!

mayserwegener
04-17-2013, 05:54 AM
The Hückel (Weilheim) Chevreau is a great find! I would say mid to late 50s. I think with a little more steam and a hat stretcher you can make it almost perfect. I would use the stretcher with a leather conditioner to smooth out the sweatband. The Chevreau is a super nice speciality finish!

yttclothing
04-17-2013, 06:22 AM
I really need to invest in these products, my car is being fixed at the minute which is costing an arm and a leg but as soon as I sell that I can finally get some hat products at the minute all I have are brushes! There are a couple of nice vintage hat stretchers on the bay so might have to have a look before resorting to the hat jack!

yttclothing
04-18-2013, 02:42 AM
So my delivery came in and for once I've got a good haul, two Borsalino's both made in Italy one pretty much brand new condition the other stained, Ive got a lot of decent hats that need a bit of tlc, two of my favourites are here a German Made Stetson and a 1969 Mockel ?
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/1621/dsc0173kz.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9502/dsc0174ucj.jpg
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/3083/dsc0175gy.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3423/dsc0176ld.jpg
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/736/dsc0159uz.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6564/dsc0163kh.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2740/dsc0164fd.jpg

esteban68
04-18-2013, 02:48 AM
Note to mods I posted this is post new hats as I didn't realise this thread existed feel free to delete from there .......I saved this Anton Pichler a week or so ago from charity shop death, sadly it's too small for me being a 57cm(I need a 58), it's in very fine condition indeed save a very small mark on the ribbon; http://i46.tinypic.com/2vinn0x.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/26122z6.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/2hhhw29.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/radizm.jpg

here's the tiny mark http://i47.tinypic.com/20pujrt.jpg

out of interest has anyone an idea of date?

esteban68
04-18-2013, 02:50 AM
and a few detail shots; http://i48.tinypic.com/abdlk.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/15qf52q.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/o8uflw.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/34g4xe0.jpg

yttclothing
04-18-2013, 02:54 AM
Hi

I would guess 60's I have similar hats by that maker and they date to around that time but mayserwegener will be the best guy to give you a date this is his information on that brand http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/25-anton-pichler-hutfabrik-josef-pitchler-sohne/

Chepstow
04-18-2013, 07:20 AM
yttclothing, very nice hats. You have quite a lot of hats in your delivery!

esteban, the 60s, that is my guess too.

mayserwegener
04-18-2013, 08:35 AM
Nice pickups! As noted all are 1960s or a bit later. Moeckel (Bad Homburg) was the original hat company that made the Homburg for Edward VII. I think the company might have changed hands after WWII. The Stetson was made by Mayser under license. Anton Pichler was out of Graz Austria although they had a factory in Novy Jicin (Czecho Slovakia) prior to WWII (was Austria prior to WWI).

esteban68
04-19-2013, 11:03 AM
just wondering if it's possible to go up a full size on a hat such as my Anton Pichler by using a hat stretcher?

mayserwegener
04-19-2013, 12:08 PM
It's possible but it will some what change the shape of the hat. It could also damage the sweatband. I would go very slow and see how it responds. I would keep it in the stretcher for a month or more.

esteban68
04-19-2013, 12:31 PM
Hmm! I'd hate to damage it or change the shape it's too good, probably best to try to get one in 58cm.

yttclothing
04-20-2013, 05:21 AM
A 1965, Edelweib Hut tyrolean/trilby style hat
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_3224146_1024x1024.jpg?1004
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_41_1024x1024.jpg?1004

I love the colour it's so bright!

mayserwegener
04-24-2013, 07:15 AM
Echter Rockel Velour, size 59cm, new old stock. Really fantastic colors (felt, liner, ribbon) and Velour finish. Also a perfect fit. Thinking early 50s but it has an earlier form so not really sure. This one took a while to arrive but well worth the wait.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8678340556_0e68879db9_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8677247291_875ec78eeb_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8678361552_22cc177667_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8675670601_1a67a43337_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8678386232_eec0427f6c_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8677264729_1c0478719c_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8107/8678393118_c5b182072a_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8678400424_b85a5fc06e_c.jpg

Chepstow
04-24-2013, 07:27 AM
Steve, great! That is a fine Rockel Velour with a perfect shape. The liner looks great too but it looks older as the 50s!

mayserwegener
04-24-2013, 07:44 AM
Manfred, Thanks! It could be older but I am really not sure. The liner outer color is very unique / beautiful.

Chepstow
04-24-2013, 07:47 AM
Is one of the best Liners and Rockels! Your crown is definitely higher than on my Rockel!

Chepstow
04-24-2013, 07:56 AM
The sweatband stitching and the bow on the sweatband of your Rockel are different! I think your hat is a little bit older!

thevintagehat
04-24-2013, 09:30 AM
that rockel is the best I've seen ! Stunning!

mikespens
04-24-2013, 10:40 AM
Breath taking Steve! Congratulations!

mayserwegener
04-24-2013, 05:25 PM
Mike & TVH, Thanks!

Manfred, Highly possible. I wore it today but no photo.

mayserwegener
04-24-2013, 06:37 PM
A 1965, Edelweib Hut tyrolean/trilby style hat

I love the colour it's so bright!

Yes very nice color! It reminds me of a Resistol - Wegener Majestic Mix XX, Alpine of mine which I sold to a friend a while back.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/4-rm-wegener-hutfabrik/#entry279

yttclothing
04-25-2013, 03:24 AM
A small Huckel Rodos
Fair amount of moth bites somewhat covered by the long hair

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-Light-Grey-Fedora-by-Huckel-Rodos-Trilby-Hat-SZ-55-UK-6-3-4-US-6-7-8-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMDcx/z/cC0AAMXQn11ReQJ7/$(KGrHqRHJFEFEklfUrhkBReQJ7e2cg~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-Light-Grey-Fedora-by-Huckel-Rodos-Trilby-Hat-SZ-55-UK-6-3-4-US-6-7-8-/00/s/MTYwMFgxNDMw/z/cNoAAMXQn11ReQKd/$T2eC16VHJHQFFhuYDyHWBReQKdu,Iw~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-Light-Grey-Fedora-by-Huckel-Rodos-Trilby-Hat-SZ-55-UK-6-3-4-US-6-7-8-/00/s/Njk5WDE2MDA=/z/SBIAAMXQROxReQKr/$(KGrHqZHJFUFEMGOTR,QBReQKq8CWg~~60_57.JPG

Love the duck egg blue liner

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 06:39 AM
Nice Trachtenhut! It was made by TONAK (Czechoslovakia). Looks like the production year is 1966 based on the paper label. JHS was nationalized as TONAK after WWII.

yttclothing
04-25-2013, 06:44 AM
Is there any difference between a Trachtenhut & a Tyrolean hat ?

Because Trachtenhut that literally translates to Traditional Hat?

See I've always though that Bavarian, Tyrolean, Alpine & Trachtenhut have all been the same hat just called different things.

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 07:00 AM
Trachtenhut is a catch all. There are many different German/Austrian/North Italian traditional styles.

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 02:54 PM
Hutfabrik Rockel, German Trademarks

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8681015381_bf38cd3542_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8682145748_5210608658_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8125/8682144820_451fe312a8_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8681015385_6f6a603c20_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8681020277_e3999cd44d_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8681018131_b8242f6ab9_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 03:19 PM
Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim, German Trademarks

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8681064277_962806c0a5_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8682183792_76c25dd0dd_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8262/8681069521_ab2f3750c8_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8681063423_9bb6523359_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8682182064_0c8e21a896_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8682181224_46f8542f33_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8681063433_d505c8ed94_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8681066205_51ceab1071_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8119/8681065407_6aea2c2449_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 03:35 PM
Hückel Family Members (Post Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim), German Trademarks

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8681105105_8a9b87b3cc_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8681108525_8d08290ca3_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8262/8681069521_ab2f3750c8_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8681105109_0c864eb842_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8524/8682220208_203545d94b_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8682219226_783e588a4e_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 04:11 PM
TONAK, Hückel Related, German + Euro Trademarks

It appears TONAK is the only company holding current Hückel related trademarks for Europe. It also appear they didn't receive trademarks until around 1966. I assuming the 1930s trademarks where under JHS and didn't transfer but I could be wrong. As far as I can tell TONAK didn't sell under the Hückel name in Germany (not sure about the rest of Europe) while Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim was still in business (closed 1975).

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8682249960_502edd7867.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8682252300_670d5b571d_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8681139397_319db960e9_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8681137071_6892734dc3.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8682252330_df5f215f6c_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8681139441_27245380b5_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8262/8682252308_2dc11b9077_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8681162803_6054a00faa.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8682278078_a231c6e5d6_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8681165279_4092641268_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 04:36 PM
TONAK, Hückel Related, German + Euro Trademarks (Continued)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8681162793_7b90e83527.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8681165321_e0e54eef85_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8682278092_b24a322ef9_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8682322182_084f39a7a4.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8682324560_58e41e7c74_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8681213133_2becf680f7_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8682335266_a874013425.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8682337066_dcb719dc2b_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8682337038_2f73f32778_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 05:11 PM
TONAK, Hückel Related, German + Euro Trademarks (Continued)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8681260915_8f9a1ace6f.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8681262713_75d023fb3f_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8681262705_056839b4a6_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8681260219_d0b3aec1bc.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8682373786_0e65dd9703_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8682373770_ce48d8c27b_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8682371306_03eba02c14.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8681262655_2efe2bdd63_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8681285223_7e9791229f_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 09:16 PM
TONAK, Peschel Related, German + Euro Trademarks

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8399/8681732921_527a775ddd.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8682843250_7a4ac5da52_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8681731341_4fde2ed3ab_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-25-2013, 09:21 PM
TONAK, Brüder Böhm Related, German + Euro Trademarks

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8681732915_074917e576_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8681731381_e6d44e7035_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8681731357_d9ab545814_b.jpg

Chepstow
04-26-2013, 03:47 AM
Steve, fantastic detective work, congrats my friend!

yttclothing
04-26-2013, 04:44 AM
I ordered a whole load of what I thought were felt hats spent over £100
What did I get well lots of military and fire service hats and these two East German creations
Not fedoras or trilbies or anything that great but nevertheless slightly historic.

This made by VEB-mutzenfabrikation

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-East-German-Winter-Cap-Hat-by-VEB-mutzenfabrikation-Sz-57-UK-7-US-7-1-8-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMDcx/z/WXEAAOxyshFRemXr/$(KGrHqF,!qsFEFqyjBezBRem(rY-Fg~~60_57.JPG

This which is an old Petrol station works hat I believe

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-East-German-Historic-VEB-Minol-Fur-Winter-Hat-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMDcx/z/ZxkAAMXQwKdReQ~4/$T2eC16F,!yEE9s5jD(t9BReQ+4EhNQ~~60_57.JPG

Chepstow
04-26-2013, 04:57 AM
Great stuff! That Minol Cap is very cool, nice nostalgic. VEB is GDR German Democratic Repuplic

yttclothing
04-26-2013, 09:56 AM
Rockel Wildleder In a greenish colour

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_50_1024x1024.jpg?1027
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_52_1024x1024.jpg?1027

A stitched liner, so im guessing early 60's

yttclothing
04-26-2013, 10:05 AM
Rockel Wildleder In a greenish colour

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_50_1024x1024.jpg?1027
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0211/3648/products/DSC_52_1024x1024.jpg?1027

A stitched liner, so im guessing early 60's

mayserwegener
04-26-2013, 01:27 PM
That sounds about right could be a bit older (late 50s). Some leather conditioner / cleaner should help with the sweatband. Also a good steam should bring the form back. Nice find!

mayserwegener
04-26-2013, 01:50 PM
Steve, fantastic detective work, congrats my friend!

Thanks! It's interesting that some of the Hückel family retained the trademark rights in the 1980s. I don't believe they ended up doing anything with the brand.

Chepstow
04-26-2013, 09:47 PM
Steve, that is a very interesting point but It could be!

Chepstow
04-26-2013, 10:11 PM
Patty, nice Rockel Wildleder!

mayserwegener
04-29-2013, 04:48 PM
Mayser Trademarks (1950s and later)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8694595430_a42593b494_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8399/8694589970_87330a23c0_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8694589946_9e5c43e833_b.jpg

Mayser made hats under the Parker 713 Broadway New York brand name starting in 1960 (image from 1966). They also tradmarked the Hilton brand name in 1962 but no image is available.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8694594302_45cf07f381_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8693470275_6e57de2eec_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8120/8694589916_1f175919e6_b.jpg

Some straw and felt related trademarks from late 50s and early 60s.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8693474897_92af3c064b_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8694589870_7d23b142a7_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8394/8693470185_04694fc757_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8263/8693470233_c0df32aa97_b.jpg

mayserwegener
04-29-2013, 04:49 PM
Mayser registered a Ottmar Reich (went out of business in the 1990s) trademark in 1998 but it was withdrawn 2008.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8694594306_b09da822d2_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8694589914_0a2f5a0197_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8694589896_9ca6b06a17_b.jpg

Mayser (1956 - 1999)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/8697280390_10b44bff19_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8697283990_be9b4a86cb_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8696162723_bb29442c82_b.jpg

Chepstow
04-30-2013, 07:55 AM
Another great find, Steve. That Mayser produced Parker and Dreistern was new for me, but now It's clear that some big concerns as Mayser or Wegner produce the no name brands as Parker or Dreistern. I the past I saw some on the flea market ( Parker )!

mayserwegener
04-30-2013, 09:47 AM
I searched on hut and hüte for "List of Goods and Services" and got over 30,000 hits.

mayserwegener
04-30-2013, 03:02 PM
Wegener Trademark (1938 - 2000)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8696199551_2a6f9702d6_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/8697283914_f72017805b_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8696162629_8308720158_b.jpg

Chepstow
04-30-2013, 10:04 PM
Steve, thanks for the tip. I found a German Trademark register, I think it is the same as yours!

http://tmview.europa.eu/tmview/welcome.html?language=de

mayserwegener
05-01-2013, 06:28 AM
I have been using the Deutsches Patent - und Markenamt.

https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/uebersicht

It appears your site links to the DPMA site. I would like to find old trademarks that haven't been active for a long time. The ones online are either active or have fairly recently expired.

mayserwegener
05-01-2013, 06:40 AM
I found that the Möckel trademark was registered by the retail men's store Ernst Köln in 1965 and canceled in 1998. Ernst Köln also had hats made under their own brand name as well as selling the major brands like Mayser.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8696162709_1d66afbf35_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8696162683_3c7d14d576_b.jpg

mayserwegener
05-01-2013, 06:49 AM
K. & R. Lembert Augsburg still (extended 2010) active trademark.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8696159229_8bdd363f9d_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8696162615_0c8987142a_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8697283874_f614889c86_b.jpg

mayserwegener
05-01-2013, 07:30 AM
This P. & C. Habig trademark was registered in 1989 by Angelika and Barbara Habig. Barbara Habig revived the brand in 2006 but doesn't appear to be any recent activity.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8699183312_2641802b25_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8699164246_788be8b275_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8127/8698040621_62d2c88078_b.jpg

Chepstow
05-01-2013, 09:54 AM
Steve, that is a great side, a lot of news and suprises!

mayserwegener
05-08-2013, 06:27 AM
J. Hückel´s Söhne Standard Velour, probably 1930s (maybe older) but I think it was modified (sweatband and ribbon) at a later date.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/8720591630_5dff7a06d1_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/8719469941_f04e992496_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/8717757629_c1a05c34c3_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7353/8720620758_8bb3c453ea_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/8719488619_ecacd8d279_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/8720625772_c321542739_c.jpg

Anton Hillerbrand Hutmacher, Bad Tölz , Bavaria the store that sold and could have modified the hat are still in business today.

http://hut-hillerbrand.de/

http://hut-hillerbrand.de/online/templatemedia/all_lang/resources/_wsb_641x492_Front+Gesch%24C3%24A4ft+3.2.jpg

alanfgag
05-08-2013, 06:48 AM
Smoooove.

(I think I've said that before, but it just seems to fit these gorgeous Austrian velours.)

mayserwegener
05-08-2013, 07:08 AM
Alan, Thanks! It does have a nice shine to it.

Chepstow
05-08-2013, 08:05 AM
Steve, a nice one, looks very soft and has a great shine. Congrats to the new Velour!

mayserwegener
05-08-2013, 08:43 AM
Manfred, Thanks! It should be a fun hat to wear.

Chepstow
05-09-2013, 10:54 AM
Found this rare HESS Fedora in hunter green from 1946, I guess the stamp schows 1946, on a flea market today!
It's an Antilope finish! The photos could be better but I had not enough time for some better photos! I will show better photos next time!

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2233/hessfedora4.jpg

Chepstow
05-09-2013, 10:57 AM
this is the second hat from the flea market, nothing special, but he has a great felt and a nice ribbon!
Lord hat!

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1514/lord3.jpg

mayserwegener
05-09-2013, 12:33 PM
Manfred, The Hess is fantastic! What a nice surprise! I am not aware of the Hess mark. Also nice felt / finish on the Lord. I assume no maker details?

rlk
05-09-2013, 01:38 PM
Some great finishes. Lord had some great Posters but I don't know anything more
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iom9pczy0k4/UYwIrqgoxdI/AAAAAAAAODQ/-hO0FyC6QOg/s800/%2524T2eC16JHJHQE9nzEyO%252CRBQ7rnCLN%252Cg%257E%2 57E60_57.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZI-YFLTvxpE/UYwIW7ij53I/AAAAAAAAODI/33WKaiSa0DI/s800/%2521B7%2521V8WQ%25212k%257E%2524%2528KGrHqR%252C% 2521ioEyeCy%252CRh4BMz%2521mI68Ww%257E%257E_3.JPG

alanfgag
05-09-2013, 01:55 PM
Manfred, I really like your fleas.

mayserwegener
05-09-2013, 02:28 PM
Lord had some great Posters but I don't know anything more


Fantastic!

Chepstow
05-09-2013, 08:46 PM
Steve, Robert and Alan, thank you very much!

Steve, the Hess is the same Brand as my Homburger and the Lord hat has no paper label inside!

Robert, great ads, thank you for posting!

mikespens
05-10-2013, 12:43 AM
Very nice scores Manfred! I hope they fit you too.

Chepstow
05-10-2013, 03:56 AM
Mike, thank you very much! I have luck Mike, both are a 56 and fits perfect!
Here are some better photos.

Hess fedora probably 1946
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2233/hessfedora4.jpg


Lord Hat probably 1960 to 70
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/3248/lord3d.jpg

randooch
05-10-2013, 06:00 AM
Good Lord!

mingoslim
05-10-2013, 06:33 AM
Found this rare HESS Fedora in hunter green from 1946, I guess the stamp schows 1946, on a flea market today!
It's an Antilope finish! The photos could be better but I had not enough time for some better photos! I will show better photos next time!

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2233/hessfedora4.jpg

Wow! Love this hat . . . The look is one that seems to be a nice combination of the German and American ideals of a fedora!

Chepstow
05-10-2013, 07:50 AM
Randall and mingoslim, thank you very much for the kind words.

mayserwegener
05-11-2013, 10:23 PM
Wilke - Hutfabrik G.M.B.H. Matchbook, probably late 1950s or 1960s.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/8729851771_95eb62a4ce_o.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/8730970856_50a7c70cbc_o.jpg

Chepstow
05-11-2013, 10:36 PM
Steve, a nice and rare find. Never seen that from Wilke!

mayserwegener
05-12-2013, 08:34 AM
Manfred, Thanks! First time for me too.

mayserwegener
05-12-2013, 08:48 AM
Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum has a permanent Hat making exhibition. S. & J. Fraenkel A.-G. factory was located in Ebreichsdorfer. The following link has a great set of early 20th century photos of the factory (scroll to the bottom and view in full screen mode).

http://www.heimatmuseum-ebreichsdorf.com/dauerausstellungen-im-museum/der-filzhut/

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6588310365_6f3a939cfa_b.jpg

Hugo Fraenkel was the long time editor of Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung and Österreichisch Hutmacher-Zeitung.


Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung (December 1, 1912)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6588307913_7865241bfe_b.jpg

yttclothing
05-13-2013, 05:43 AM
I'm guessing this is German / Austrian as it came in with a group of German hats but does anyone recognise the branding

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/8735319144_33078b8744_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8735318544_ee1113a038_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/8734198813_8891e094f3_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/8735321302_d0b86bee40_z.jpg

No Labels under the sweatband, to me it looks like an eagle which would make me think of USA but I never get hats from the USA always from Europe and mostly German, hat are your thoughts?

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 06:00 AM
I don't think it's American. I am not familiar with the mark. Is there any writing below the eagle on the sweatband? Also can you take a close up of what is left of the crown tip patch?

yttclothing
05-13-2013, 06:09 AM
There is but i think it might be some sort initials or abbreviation really hard to make out it look like WHL but its really hard to see

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/8735421786_a37d6404e3_c.jpg

Chepstow
05-13-2013, 10:18 AM
Steve, nice ads! The Museums photos are great!

Patty, nice hat, but the brand is also unknown for me.

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 12:01 PM
Manfred, Thanks!

Paddy, I looked around some more but couldn't place that mark.

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 12:54 PM
Villa Wegener, 1884/85 1920s, Lauterbach / Blitzenrod, Vogelsbergstraße 139

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/8735428695_8174c90a6e_o.jpg

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 01:20 PM
PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe, birthplace of the Homburg hat.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/8736622190_3cca3f818d_b.jpg

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 01:43 PM
Rockel & Co. Alsfeld plus other companies, probably 1930s.

"A Man Of The World Is Always With Hat!"

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/8735575871_36c20345d1_o.jpg

mayserwegener
05-13-2013, 07:28 PM
A. Breiter Munich (still in business today) advertisement, early 20th Century.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8737088828_b5f4b392da_o.jpg

I had to get this!

Chepstow
05-13-2013, 08:46 PM
Great photos Steve. The Rockel photo is very rare!

ManofKent
05-14-2013, 04:17 AM
A great thread with some lovely hats.

As someone with a large noggin (61) finding something vintage that doesn't need work seems a rarity, so I wondered what the contemporary Wegener quality was like?

mayserwegener
05-14-2013, 06:40 AM
Great photos Steve. The Rockel photo is very rare!

Thanks! I found it from an old German eBay auction. The hats look similar to some of our dead stock ones.

mayserwegener
05-14-2013, 07:07 AM
A great thread with some lovely hats.

As someone with a large noggin (61) finding something vintage that doesn't need work seems a rarity, so I wondered what the contemporary Wegener quality was like?

I heard most Wegener hats are not made in house anymore. The ones made in house (will say "Ein Natuprodukt Handgefertigt in Deutschland" ) are of good quality compared to other modern production hats. Apparently Wegener will take special orders. Check out this blog for more information (you can run it through Google translator).

http://bernhardroetzelblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/einzeln-und-auf-wunsch-gefertigt-hut.html

ManofKent
05-14-2013, 08:20 AM
I heard most Wegener hats are not made in house anymore. The ones made in house (will say "Ein Natuprodukt Handgefertigt in Deutschland" ) are of good quality compared to other modern production hats...

Thank you. A little more googling found Wegener Homburgs in Tails & The Unexpected's end-of-line sale at a price I couldn't resist

http://www.tailsandtheunexpected.com/end-of-line-15/homburg-hat-grey.html

It looks a nice hat and from this description sounds like it may be made in house.

Now I've just got to explain to my wife when another hat turns up at that the house that it was essential to my well being ;-)

Chepstow
05-14-2013, 08:58 AM
" Die gute Breitermütze " is arrived in an nice beige fabric.What a great Cap! It's definitely from the 30s.
Inside in like new condition, outside some soiling. It's larger then 55. I guess a 57-58.
Some fast photos. I will take some better photos if I have a bit more time.

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5980/breitermtze5.jpg

mayserwegener
05-14-2013, 09:22 AM
[QUOTE=ManofKent;1630082]
http://www.tailsandtheunexpected.com/end-of-line-15/homburg-hat-grey.html

It looks a nice hat and from this description sounds like it may be made in house. [QUOTE]

Yes I believe so too. Also a good price. Please report back once you receive it.

mayserwegener
05-14-2013, 09:25 AM
" Die gute Breitermütze " is arrived in an nice beige fabric.What a great Cap! It's definitely from the 30s.
Inside in like new condition, outside some soiling. It's larger then 55. I guess a 57-58.
Some fast photos. I will take some better photos if I have a bit more time.

Manfred, Fantastic! It appears to fit nicely. I really like the detail work and fabric! I do not detect any soiling from the photos. Very rare find!

Chepstow
05-14-2013, 09:52 AM
Thanks Steve, in the photos they are not seen, but all in all it's a nice cap. I will try to wash it out a bit!

alanfgag
05-14-2013, 09:58 AM
Great one, Manfred.

ManofKent
05-14-2013, 11:22 AM
Yes I believe so too. Also a good price. Please report back once you receive it.
Will do. I've been after a grey homburg for a while, and vintage 61s aren't exactly common.

ManofKent
05-14-2013, 11:23 AM
Thanks Steve, in the photos they are not seen, but all in all it's a nice cap. I will try to wash it out a bit!

Good luck with the cleaning - it looks god as is from the photo. Nice find.

Chepstow
05-14-2013, 08:30 PM
Alan and Manof, many thanks, Gentlemen!

Chepstow
05-15-2013, 08:03 AM
Some better photos of the Breitermütze!

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2677/breitermtze6.jpg
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2360/breitermtze7.jpg

bowlerman
05-15-2013, 08:13 AM
Wow! Beautiful, Manfred.

mayserwegener
05-15-2013, 08:51 AM
Manfred, Thanks for posting the more detailed photos! Beautiful!

Chepstow
05-15-2013, 09:04 AM
Jeff and Steve, many thanks!

mikespens
05-15-2013, 12:52 PM
Nice job Manfred! Looks great.

ManofKent
05-15-2013, 01:00 PM
Manfred - looks great from the close ups. I have to say it suits you better than your model though ;-)

Chepstow
05-15-2013, 08:38 PM
Mike and Manof, thank you very much for the kind words, I wish I could find more of these Caps but it's hard to find!

yttclothing
05-16-2013, 06:54 AM
Ok so I keep getting hats with the similar linings and style of sweatband and fonts etc. some say Guben some say luckenwalde hutfabrik, some say absolutely nothing
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/8743467271_a7146f57c1_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/8744586032_fd3ed3669b_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/8743467839_4a7334517f_c.jpg

This is an example this says Topas but it has the g logo inside on a small sticker
I also have to hats with antilope stamped on them one says luckenwalde the other does not but they are the same logo on the liner

Going home soon to sort out this Wilke, just been told my hat expander stretcher has arrived so should help the steam and sizing!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/8744588492_b9780c4f6b_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8744587706_de31991625_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8744587504_ddef0f5e63_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/8743468025_af96340920_c.jpg


Im thinking 60's? What do you guys think?

mayserwegener
05-16-2013, 07:29 AM
My guess with the Topas (not sure who made it ?DDR?) would be early 1960s maybe late 50s. Is the liner glued? The ones that are marked Luckenwalder and Guben Hutfabrik are DDR made hats. I believe the Wilke was made in West Germany. My guess would be 1960s. It looks like it had a liner at one time. C. G. Wilke was located in Guben (East Germany) up to WWII. It is possible the mark was also used by one of the DDR companies. A good guide is to check for glued liners. You start to see glued liners in the early 1960s sometimes late 1950s. Also the DDR made hats usually have similar construction characteristics.

yttclothing
05-17-2013, 02:53 AM
Spent a bit of time on the wilke yesterday evening
I think it turned out ok a few moth bites and more permeant marks but it was pretty happy with the result as this is my first time
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8132/8747434714_e342f69609_c.jpg

mayserwegener
05-17-2013, 07:58 AM
Looks fantastic! I think it's more early 60s maybe very late 50s.

ManofKent
05-17-2013, 08:38 AM
Looks fantastic! I think it's more early 60s maybe very late 50s.
+1 looks great

esteban68
05-19-2013, 06:31 AM
Found this quite nice hat today at the local car boot, it's a very nice condition WEGENER, the photo's make it look a bit washed out but in fact it's in very nice almost unworn condition, photo's are pre being brushed and wiped down so some dust is still evident...I guess it's a 58cm as it fits me perfectly but needs re shaping?http://i41.tinypic.com/2zjatys.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/28md6qp.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/comsg.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/ilezh3.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/rs7sya.jpg

esteban68
05-19-2013, 06:35 AM
some detail shots, any idea of age, 60's-70's?http://i39.tinypic.com/1zn8t3b.jpg

the crown protector has split not sure if it's from use as it appears very clean indeed or from age? but still does it's job;
http://i42.tinypic.com/105vgbk.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/30wmr2p.jpg

mayserwegener
05-19-2013, 07:34 AM
It appears to have a stitched liner (in the 60s they become glued) so I would guess early 1960s maybe late 1950s. Biber is beaver in German. I am sure it looks better after clean-up. Nice find!

ManofKent
05-20-2013, 02:47 AM
Nice find - post some pics after a clean up too.

Chepstow
05-20-2013, 06:44 AM
Nice find - post some pics after a clean up too.

+1

esteban68
05-20-2013, 09:49 AM
Will do, it's rather soft and a bit floppy especially the brim, I wonder if it was made as a 'crushable'?...I've tried steaming it but it still doesn't hold it's shape well though on the head its pretty much ok.

mayserwegener
05-20-2013, 10:08 AM
Sounds like it needs a re-block / flange. I would have it done open crown. Not a crushable.

esteban68
05-20-2013, 11:30 AM
thanks for advice on this guys, I've steamed a couple of hats before successfuly using the kettle method but I won't work with this one...any ideas about who could reblock/shape the hat in the UK preferably close -ish to me?

Chepstow
05-21-2013, 07:36 AM
Esteban, normally everybody who deals with hats. What is with Lock & Co ?
Or you can use a steam iron that has more water pressure, that goes better for steaming!

mayserwegener
05-21-2013, 07:33 PM
Elegant Homburg, measures 59cm. I believe it's from a East German source and is pre WWII. The liner is soiled but overall condition is good. No paper label.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2839/8778847314_5e5efcd609_b.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/8778813416_c002082a27_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/8772334993_de3fb7c4a9_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5344/8772383261_1d95beeee0_b.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/8778787018_87315a526d_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8555/8772470622_941856b13a_b.jpg

Chepstow
05-21-2013, 08:31 PM
Steve, looks great the old one! Good Job done. The steam brought him to a new live. Love that deep Brown Color.
I look forward to a noggin shot!

mayserwegener
05-21-2013, 08:43 PM
Manfred, Thanks for the assist! I think it will look better in the natural light.

yttclothing
05-22-2013, 07:34 AM
The Best from todays delivery!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5470/8785946080_ce32cf29a8_c.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2821/8779376755_43fec6aeee_c.jpg

My fav is the Homburg, no branding on it but the liner says Letzte Neuheit, stitched liner so im guessing 50's. Sweatband looks like that used by the East German Hat factories

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 08:04 AM
Looks like a nice haul! Any brand names in there? Are they all small sizes? Hopefully you can take some detailed photos.

yttclothing
05-22-2013, 09:21 AM
Quite a nice haul, a couple of brand names in the whole haul a Lembert traditional hat, a few Mayser, I'll post up some of the nicer ones. I'm plagues with the smaller sizes currently ! Nothing for my head size, Im starting to see 53 & 54 on a regular basis which is most frustrating. Hopefully before Christmas I will get a 100KG shipment then I'm hoping for some larger sizes!

Anyway here is the first
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5451/8787614318_535f8ba165_c.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/8787602738_532350ee87_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8257/8787606400_706d9a0648_c.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2855/8787610424_83c8b60d2f_c.jpg

Not uncommon but still a nice hat with a nice feel to it similar to the Antelope Felt used by LH

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 09:33 AM
I am especially interested in the light gray one in the first photo and all four in the second photo. Thanks!

yttclothing
05-22-2013, 09:40 AM
This is the light grey a very small size 54 and some dark marks and moth bites
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mens-Vintage-VHG-Fur-Fedora-50s-Light-Grey-SZ-54-UK-6-5-8-US-6-3-4-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMDcx/z/2iUAAMXQEbdRnMdh/$T2eC16R,!zoE9s5ne3cqBRnMdgugl!~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mens-Vintage-VHG-Fur-Fedora-50s-Light-Grey-SZ-54-UK-6-5-8-US-6-3-4-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMDcx/z/NcEAAMXQ25pRnMd9/$T2eC16N,!)kE9s4Z-vU9BRnMd8O0y!~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mens-Vintage-VHG-Fur-Fedora-50s-Light-Grey-SZ-54-UK-6-5-8-US-6-3-4-/00/s/MTA3MVgxNjAw/z/SmkAAMXQwo9RnMeL/$T2eC16d,!zEE9s3!Y88yBRnMeLSep!~~60_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mens-Vintage-VHG-Fur-Fedora-50s-Light-Grey-SZ-54-UK-6-5-8-US-6-3-4-/00/s/MTA3MVgxNjAw/z/3DEAAMXQEbdRnMeF/$T2eC16N,!wsE9suw)kk,BRnMeEYYtQ~~60_57.JPG

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 09:42 AM
J. Hückel´s Söhne Flexible Melone, measured 57cm, pre WWII. Not mine but from a Czech source. Fantastic offset bow and black liner!

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/8781357073_239cd490a4_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7395/8787959590_8aac6c60ca_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/8787945912_a7f469b2b0_b.jpg

yttclothing
05-22-2013, 09:45 AM
Love that black liner looks fantastic against the leather a really classy look!

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 09:53 AM
Thanks! I wish it was mine. I think it could be from around WWI.

The VEB Vereinigte Hutwerke Guben is really nice! You are receiving a lot of early DDR hats!

ManofKent
05-22-2013, 11:13 AM
Lovely Topas & that melone is gorgeous

ManofKent
05-22-2013, 11:25 AM
The new Wegener Homburg from Tails & The Unexpected was waiting for me at the Post Office on Saturday (excellent service - was posted 1st class the same afternoon I ordered it). Finally took some photos:

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg6_zps5cdc5f2a.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg6_zps5cdc5f2a.jpg.html)

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg3_zps4a4d6426.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg3_zps4a4d6426.jpg.html)

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg5_zpse7f9826b.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg5_zpse7f9826b.jpg.html)

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg4_zps234546e4.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg4_zps234546e4.jpg.html)

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg1_zpsaeb79ea4.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg1_zpsaeb79ea4.jpg.html)

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq213/manofkent_2008/homburg2_zps4820ca2e.jpg (http://s449.photobucket.com/user/manofkent_2008/media/homburg2_zps4820ca2e.jpg.html)

The mug shots show slight residual side dents - it looked okay with them, but I prefer it without, hopefully a little moisture will fully get them out. I don't own a any vintage hats to give a quality comparison, but compared with my Christy's 'Jones' Fedora, the felt is slightly thicker and slightly softer, and the sweatband is much better leather. The liner's glued, the ribbon work is only okay, but I'm very happy for under £80, and I wouldn't say it was over priced at it's original price (£159). It fit's a good half size larger than Christy's (who I always suspected come up slightly small), but I only needed a little padding under the rear of the sweatband.

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 11:49 AM
Thank you for the detailed report! I think you got a great deal. The bow work actually looks better than most modern production hats. Does it have the "Ein Natuprodukt Handgefertigt in Deutschland" at the front of the sweatband? It was machine blocked so it will take some effort to get rid of the side dents.

ManofKent
05-22-2013, 12:40 PM
Thank you for the detailed report! I think you got a great deal. The bow work actually looks better than most modern production hats. Does it have the "Ein Natuprodukt Handgefertigt in Deutschland" at the front of the sweatband? It was machine blocked so it will take some effort to get rid of the side dents.
There's nothing on the sweatband other than Wegener - nothing to say it's fur felt either (although it is). Supposedly it was made for Tails and the Unexpected, so whether the labelling is the same as for standard production hats I couldn't say. The quality is certainly decent, and better than the current production UK manufactured hats I've handled, but where it's made I couldn't say.

I think the dents will come out with a bit of work - the felt is quite soft, but if they don't I'll settle for it with them. They don't look bad, but (maybe from my limited knowledge of English Homburgs) feel an unnecessary and slightly odd addition.

mayserwegener
05-22-2013, 02:55 PM
I am pretty sure it was made in Germany. In Germany and Austria they were often worn with side dents. If you go back before WWII they would not be described as Homburg hats (this is an English / American term). They take on more Bowler like elements (stiffer brims and felt) as they become more formal.

Chepstow
05-22-2013, 08:41 PM
Manof, great hat the new Wegener. The shape looks very nice also the color! A good buy!

mayserwegener
05-24-2013, 09:09 PM
J. Hückel´s Söhne Pin, very early 1900s or late 1800s. Small but fantastic!

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/8821206720_af0d3f7596_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5330/8810650365_22e8e5585d_b.jpg

splintercellsz
05-24-2013, 11:02 PM
Way cool!

Chepstow
05-25-2013, 09:06 PM
Steve, nice Hückel Pin. I think I have the same but newer!

mayserwegener
05-26-2013, 05:52 AM
Manfred, Thanks! When you have a chance please post some photos.

Justin, Thanks!

Chepstow
05-26-2013, 06:09 AM
Here is my Hückel Pin!

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4683/hueckecrest2.jpg

mayserwegener
05-26-2013, 06:25 AM
Manfred, Looks great! Thanks!

esteban68
05-26-2013, 08:40 AM
Here's a few after pics of my recently found Wegener after I steamed it back to shape, pics are still a little washed out and the actual colour is a little less brown and more olive but it's come out ok I think;
http://i42.tinypic.com/i76jv7.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/30k9i13.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/svnn5x.jpghttp://i40.tinypic.com/igafc8.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/9lg8k6.jpg

mayserwegener
05-26-2013, 02:50 PM
Looks great after the heavy steaming and shaping!

Chepstow
05-27-2013, 10:14 AM
Looks great after the heavy steaming and shaping!

+1

Very very nice!

yttclothing
05-29-2013, 06:48 AM
Steve I known you said you were interested in these two hats from the picture

50's Homburg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/8878279847_df4b26c00f_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/8878895086_30e374711e_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8878892920_65b02949a2_c.jpg

Stitched liner couple of moth bites on the underneath of the brim, then it just looks a bit brown under the grey felt maybe a bit dirty ?

Size 56, US 7

Then this is just a Luckenwalde Hutfabrik hat I believe same size as the homburg a nice felt on this though

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3771/8878890576_ab27d2fb9f_c.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3718/8878887810_6616bd146e_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8272/8878265547_96fc538e22_c.jpg

Nice hats not my size as usual, but off to NY in a couple of weeks and larger sizes seem more common over there so hope to get some!

ManofKent
05-29-2013, 11:40 AM
^That's a particularly nice homburg.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that German's statistically have the largest heads of the western world, but I still don't see many 60/61's come up!

yttclothing
05-29-2013, 01:43 PM
^That's a particularly nice homburg.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that German's statistically have the largest heads of the western world, but I still don't see many 60/61's come up!

I wish I could find some hats in that size ! I get some really small ones quite rarely get anything above 58

mayserwegener
05-29-2013, 09:10 PM
Paddy, Thanks for posting the additional photos! I occasionally run into a size 60cm but larger than that almost never. It is also tough over hear once you get above 59cm (7 3/8) especially the farther you go back.

Chepstow
05-29-2013, 10:56 PM
Great hats, Paddy. The Homburger looks very good. Nice finds.

Fastuni
06-01-2013, 02:36 PM
In Germany and Austria they were often worn with side dents. If you go back before WWII they would not be described as Homburg hats (this is an English / American term).

The term "Homburg" was used in German already in the 1930's.
I'd have to check what the earliest date would be, but in German tailor publications of the mid-1930's and later it's commonplace.

Here is a chart on what to wear to which occasion, from a 1938 clothing advertisement booklet.
It mentions "Homburg":

http://up.picr.de/11892364jo.jpg

mayserwegener
06-01-2013, 06:06 PM
I found this in the September 2, 1899 edition of Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung. Moeckel was the original maker of the Homburg hat for Edward VII. This is the first mention of Homburg Hats (this could actually mean any style hat made by Moeckel) that I have run across in a German or Austrian hat trade publication of the late 19th or early 20th centuries. The use of English (Real Homburg-Hats) is directed towards export markets.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7616247768_f250b18a42_b.jpg

Otherwise I haven't seen the Homburg term used in German or Austrian hat trade publications (Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung, Der Deustche Hutdetailist, Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung, Österreichisch Hutmacher-Zeitung) for first part of the 20th Century. These publications were manufacturing related (this is my view / major interest) for companies like Mayser, Wilke, Habig, JHS, ect. making finished hats / felt bodies. I am sure the term crossed over fashion wise especially considering Anglo influence (see the chart you posted).

yttclothing
06-06-2013, 03:56 AM
Had a delivery today !

When I opened the box it was if I had been waiting for a bus, I haven't had homburgs in ages (bar the one I had in my last order) This time I got 5! Also a stetson from the German market & a old German Borsalino, what I didn't get was a hat in my size (as usual ) curse my large head some interesting hats though. Here is a small selection, I also have a Swiss hat must be 50's Ill get some photos of that taken as thats an interesting and nice quality one. I'm off to New York from 2 3/4 month next Wednesday so will be able to finally get some hats that fit and suit me. As for these I have a collector in London who wants some and I'll keep a couple for my collection, the rest on to feesbay !

Anyway enough of my blabbing on with the photo:

The Borsalino, No paper label :( also a fair amount of damage

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8968297790_39c4b55a0f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968297790/)
DSC_0050 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968297790/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/8968295928_5e401c368c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968295928/)
DSC_0051 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968295928/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3768/8967105869_7406308648_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967105869/)
DSC_0052 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967105869/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

The stetson label says 57 this has got to be a mistake must be a 56 at the largest

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8534/8967112609_834c0a305b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967112609/)
DSC_0048 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967112609/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8138/8967110655_4a0793a0b3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967110655/)
DSC_0049 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967110655/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

A nice fedora by Hut Rüttinger love the size on this 58 1/2 !

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5462/8967115647_f1e2ef70e4_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967115647/)
DSC_0045 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967115647/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

A hom anyone know the brand form the label its missing its sweatband I saw P and thought Peschel

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/8967118247_b268e234fc_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967118247/)
DSC_0042 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967118247/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8967116809_53594011f1_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967116809/)
DSC_0044 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967116809/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

yttclothing
06-06-2013, 03:56 AM
Some of the homburgs

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/8968311752_f1441a2d4f_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968311752/)
DSC_0038 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968311752/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

A very grubby grey Luckenwalde Memel

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8967125573_c95e6e52ef_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967125573/)
DSC_0035 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8967125573/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8549/8968313160_d8527cc2a2_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968313160/)
DSC_0037 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/92242896@N03/8968313160/) by yttclothing (http://www.flickr.com/people/92242896@N03/)

yttclothing
06-06-2013, 06:09 AM
To reply to my own post the Homburg with no sweatband is P & C. Habig ! Props to Steve's website for that easy find!

mayserwegener
06-06-2013, 07:44 AM
Paddy, Thanks! Looks like some nice pickups! I would like to see the Swiss hat when you get a chance. Have a great trip!

Chepstow
06-06-2013, 08:09 AM
Paddy, have a great trip! Some nice finds. Always a nice suprise for you.

yttclothing
06-06-2013, 10:07 AM
The Swiss hat as requested,

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7370/8969737763_f4fcb3d626_c.jpg
img]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/8969733855_534a100c8c_c.jpg[/img]
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/8969732027_ba247bd7a2_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/8970921652_b6408fc8b6_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/8969724059_d880930abb_c.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5469/8969720275_ec4b949039_c.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3808/8970919918_d103c7ce40_c.jpg

I have based the Swiss thing on the Label saying Zurich & Basel.
Feels really nice and it's only a 57 but the brim and and crown make it look bigger

mikespens
06-06-2013, 10:52 AM
Paddy, the Swiss is fascinating and a fine thing. Enjoy your trip to the New World.

mayserwegener
06-06-2013, 11:03 AM
Paddy, Thanks! It's a fantastic Homburg! I am not aware of Botta or Fein & Kaller. I will have to do some research. Looks like 3/52 on the price tag might be a date.

ManofKent
06-06-2013, 11:40 AM
Nice finds - that Swiss one looks particularly good.

mayserwegener
06-06-2013, 12:55 PM
It turns out I have a latter Botta. I had forgot the Swiss maker.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?45741-Swiss-Hat-Companies

mikespens
06-06-2013, 03:17 PM
Ah Steve, too many hats to remember, hmmmm........