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Davep
06-30-2009, 02:22 PM
Any difference or advantage/disadvantages, in using one or the other or changing back and forth?

SweetieStarr
06-30-2009, 05:33 PM
The main advantage of using bottled ink over cartridges is that bottled ink works out to be less expensive than cartridges in the long run. I also find there is a greater selection of colors in bottled ink rather than carts. Also, you have to make sure that the type of carts you buy fit their intended pen(s).

Aside from that, there is usually less risk of making a mess with carts. Otherwise, it doesn't really matter.

You can also change between carts and converters, or even refill your carts with bottled ink.

If you excuse the shameless plug, there are reviews of inks at my website (www.plume-etoile.com (http://www.plume-etoile.com)) if you are interested in reading them.

I hope this helped! I am happy to answer more questions if you have them.

Naphtali
06-30-2009, 06:04 PM
Unless something has changed, Noodler's indelible inks (especially Polar Blue and Polar Black) are not available in disposable cartridges. So far as I am concerned, this is a hammer for bottled ink -- that is, Noodler's.

Hope this helps.

Dixon Cannon
06-30-2009, 06:13 PM
Dave, funny you should ask that - I just filled my Mont Blanc cartridge from my Quink bottle for the one millionth time. I've been doing it for some twenty-five years! I have a small syringe which I fill from the bottle and just fill the cartridges (2) from the top. They still fit in the pen nice and snug and never leak. The bottle of ink lasts for decades it seems. Try it!..you'll like it!

-dixon 'quink' cannon

Widebrim
06-30-2009, 06:14 PM
Cartridges are a good choice if you are traveling, because in that way you don't have to bring a bottle along with you. In addition, if your pen uses a long cartridge, such as most Parkers, your pen will usually carry more ink than if you were to use a filler device (like converter or lever-fill). However, if you want variety of ink, then bottles can't be topped (pun was not intended, but I kind of like itlol).

John in Covina
06-30-2009, 06:18 PM
For some people cartridges are easier to deal with, but you have a smaller choice of inks and colors to use with cartridges. Also not all cartridges are the same design and it is possible that you may not be able to find your style when traveling or in the future they can be discontinued.

Many cartridge style fountain pens will take a converter which replaces the cartridge and allows for filling from the bottle. The disadvantage there is that the capacity is often smaller so refilling is more often. The advantage of filling from any bottle of fountain pen ink allows for more choices and availability.

A converter allows you to flush the pen out, to clean it much more easily than with a cartridge, which makes for a happier pen and better writing experience.

There are some pens that are bottle fill only such as higher end Pelikan and Montblanc and their capacity is quite large. Older pens that are vintage or some re-issues will often have a bladder or rubber sac that is the filler with a variety of levers plungers buttons and such to fill the bladder.

Bottle fill allows for great choice and can also be an excuse to mix inks of the same brand to create new personal colors, for use in your pens. You may find some pens work better with one ink and not so hot with another.

I have pretty much removed cartridge only pens from my collection moving to bottle fill exclusively in the last few years.

Miss Neecerie
06-30-2009, 06:20 PM
and since no one has really answered the second part..

there is no issue switching back and forth, as long as the pen you have is cartridge/converter......

which means there is a converter that acts like a -permanent- cartridge for the pen. Use the converter...it works like a bottled ink pen. Use the cartridge that fits the pen...and its a cartridge pen. Its -magic- :D


However...if you have a pen of the otherwise filling type, (piston, lever...etc)...you are -stuck- with bottled ink.

SweetieStarr
06-30-2009, 07:24 PM
Bottle fill allows for great choice and can also be an excuse to mix inks of the same brand to create new personal colors, for use in your pens. You may find some pens work better with one ink and not so hot with another.


A note of caution if you are new to inks. Different inks and brands have different pH levels and mixing them could create an adverse reaction that can clog the pen. There are many people who mix inks with no problem, but it is something to consider. If you want to try mixing inks, I would use a cheap pen instead of something like a prized vintage pen, just in case there is a problem with the mixture.

Davep
06-30-2009, 07:33 PM
Thank you all very much, I got something from each post ;)

Cleaning/flushing the pen? How do you do this and How often?

The pen I'm getting say it takes cartridge and can be filled. Does that mean I will be removing something, in order to switch it from "fill" to "cartridge"?

Also thanks for the website;)

John in Covina
06-30-2009, 07:41 PM
A note of caution if you are new to inks. Different inks and brands have different pH levels and mixing them could create an adverse reaction that can clog the pen. There are many people who mix inks with no problem, but it is something to consider. If you want to try mixing inks, I would use a cheap pen instead of something like a prized vintage pen, just in case there is a problem with the mixture.

As I wrote above mixing with in the same brand is less likely to have problems.

Private Reserve is designed to mix without problems.

Mix and let stand over night if you are experimenting with different brands and avoid using mixtures that have particulates falling out that may clog the pen or strain thru a coffee filter to avoid the schmutz.

It's not likely you will create something more powerful than sulphuric acid that will instantly disolve both pen and flesh.

Miss Neecerie
06-30-2009, 07:42 PM
you shall recieve something that looks like http://www.anythingleft-handed.co.uk/acatalog/577_b.jpg


with which you do...what he shows in the video

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1106754/filling_a_piston_cartridge_converter_fountain_pen/

there...you are now inked and dangerous


ps...i sort of -like- the bizzare colors I end up with by not -really- flushing out pens well...i rinse..but i have not enough patience for it.

John in Covina
06-30-2009, 07:44 PM
A converter
http://www.jetpens.com/cms.php/content/Article:_How_to_Use_a_Fountain_Pen_Converter

SweetieStarr
06-30-2009, 07:48 PM
Thank you all very much, I got something from each post ;)

Cleaning/flushing the pen? How do you do this and How often?

The pen I'm getting say it takes cartridge and can be filled. Does that mean I will be removing something, in order to switch it from "fill" to "cartridge"?

Also thanks for the website;)

You are welcome. I hope you enjoy it and let me know if you have more questions.

Cleaning/flushing routines vary. If you are changing ink colors, you want to flush before each ink change, so that you do not mix inks. If you are sticking with the same ink, you can just flush periodically for maintenance.

How you flush depends on what pen you use. For vintage pens that have sacs, you just need to fill the pen with water (just like you would with ink) and then pull the lever (or other filling mechanism) to let the water out. Do this a few times or until the water runs clear.

It sounds like you are getting a cartridge/converter pen, so what you would do is take out the cart or converter, flush the nib by running it under room temperature water under the faucet until the water runs clear. As for the converter, keep filling it with room temp water and then releasing the water (rinse and repeat, lol) until the water is clear and the ink is out. Then reinsert the converter and refill with your next choice of ink!

When you are changing cartridges, you will always have to take the empty cart out to insert a new one. Make sure the opening of the cart punctures when you insert it into the pen or the ink won't flow. :) If you use the converter, take the cartridge out and insert the converter, then dip the nib of your pen into the ink and fill it. If you keep using the converter, you can leave it in the pen, unless you want to flush, as described above.

Which pen are you getting?

John in Covina
06-30-2009, 07:48 PM
BALKY FOUNTAIN PENS? FORMULA 409 TRICK!

Have you ever had a new fountain pen that just won't write well? Youíve filled it with your favorite ink and it skips or won't write at all. Well friend, the culprit may be releasing agents, grease or oils left over from manufacturing that is interfering with the delivery of ink.

Stylofiles magazine gave this pointer, which they do on every fountain pen before testing it for their article. But use caution, you may damage a pen if the chemicals attack a part, so no long term soaking! Bare aluminum is most susceptible to chemical damage of the metals but even steel will corrode if left soaking in chemically laden water. Celluloid is fairly strong but damage is possible if left in soaking too long. Casein should neither be soaked nor have any chemicals applied to it, itís very susceptible to damage. The caveat: Do NOT DAMAGE YOUR PENS! We are not responsible for any damages to pens!

VERSION ONE
Take regular Formula 409 and a small glass like a cordial or shot glass. Spray some 409 in the glass and mix with 3 to 4 parts of COLD water. Dip the nib and feed in the mixture then fill and flush the converter or filling system with the mixture for 1 or 2 minutes. Then replace the mixture with plain COLD water and flush for a minute replace water and flush repeat replacing and flushing again and again for a couple more minutes so no trace of the Formula 409 remains. Then fill with new, clean ink. The writing should be much improved if the oil or grease was the culprit. Be sure to empty the pen of all ink first then flush with plain water before using the cleaning mixture. Always use COLD water as warm or hot can damage the feed!

VERSION TWO
This is supposed to work on both new and older pens that are
presenting a skipping on no flow challenge. Stylus Magazine and some pen aficionados contend that both Formula 409 and Simple Green are too harsh to use on pens. Their alternate flusher and cleaner is a solution you can easily mix up. Mix 1 Tablespoon of Clear Household Ammonia to 2/3rds cup of Cold Water. Flush with this mixture and then flush thoroughly with PLAIN cold water to remove any residue as listed above for version one.

SweetieStarr
06-30-2009, 07:51 PM
BALKY FOUNTAIN PENS? FORMULA 409 TRICK!

Have you ever had a new fountain pen that just won't write well? Youíve filled it with your favorite ink and it skips or won't write at all. Well friend, the culprit may be releasing agents, grease or oils left over from manufacturing that is interfering with the delivery of ink.

Stylofiles magazine gave this pointer, which they do on every fountain pen before testing it for their article. But use caution, you may damage a pen if the chemicals attack a part, so no long term soaking! Bare aluminum is most susceptible to chemical damage of the metals but even steel will corrode if left soaking in chemically laden water. Celluloid is fairly strong but damage is possible if left in soaking too long. Casein should neither be soaked nor have any chemicals applied to it, itís very susceptible to damage. The caveat: Do NOT DAMAGE YOUR PENS! We are not responsible for any damages to pens!

VERSION ONE
Take regular Formula 409 and a small glass like a cordial or shot glass. Spray some 409 in the glass and mix with 3 to 4 parts of COLD water. Dip the nib and feed in the mixture then fill and flush the converter or filling system with the mixture for 1 or 2 minutes. Then replace the mixture with plain COLD water and flush for a minute replace water and flush repeat replacing and flushing again and again for a couple more minutes so no trace of the Formula 409 remains. Then fill with new, clean ink. The writing should be much improved if the oil or grease was the culprit. Be sure to empty the pen of all ink first then flush with plain water before using the cleaning mixture. Always use COLD water as warm or hot can damage the feed!

VERSION TWO
This is supposed to work on both new and older pens that are
presenting a skipping on no flow challenge. Stylus Magazine and some pen aficionados contend that both Formula 409 and Simple Green are too harsh to use on pens. Their alternate flusher and cleaner is a solution you can easily mix up. Mix 1 Tablespoon of Clear Household Ammonia to 2/3rds cup of Cold Water. Flush with this mixture and then flush thoroughly with PLAIN cold water to remove any residue as listed above for version one.

Have you tried the 409 version and if so, how did it work? I have only heard of the ammonia version and I agree the 409 could be too harsh.

John in Covina
06-30-2009, 07:53 PM
The 409 version works well and never gave me a problem. Stylophiles was well regarded. The ammonia one is good too.

Lou
06-30-2009, 07:53 PM
I have a Waterman Kultur that takes cartridges, a Sheaffer Valiant that uses bottled ink, and a Lamy Al-Star with a converter. I prefer filling with bottled ink and having the much bigger color selection, but having a pen with cartridge convenience is nice.

Dixon Cannon
06-30-2009, 07:57 PM
Thank you all very much, I got something from each post ;)

Cleaning/flushing the pen? How do you do this and How often?

The pen I'm getting say it takes cartridge and can be filled. Does that mean I will be removing something, in order to switch it from "fill" to "cartridge"?

Also thanks for the website;)

DaveP, I found that my MontBlanc converter leaked early on. That's when I began just filling the cartridges instead. About twice a year I dismantle the old Meisterstuck and drop into a glass of water. That dissolves any old dried ink, clears out the nip and brings it back into shape for the next six months or so. I just do it on whim if it looks like it needs it. My MontBlanc is now twenty-five years old and going strong!

-dixon cannon

Davep
06-30-2009, 08:04 PM
For my unit, I'm the company clerk. So I was taken by "pens" to use as part of our barracks impression, and to use it for signing guys on the roster, and to give out weekend passes. And eventually to make "hand written letters" from home addressed to each member (together with easy to reproduce v-mail).

I first was thinking about getting a Conklin Glider, after seeing it on the Allied Workshop Page.
http://www.alliedworkshops.com/vintage.shtml

But then looking for what else Conklin had I found the "Victory Pen" which was made for soldiers. So that is the one I'm starting with. should get it tommorrow.

From there I think I will start exploring pens that would have been available to a soldier in WW2. Should be an interesting study.





The only problem I have with foundation pen, was the last time I used one, I was a kid in school. And I found myself playing with the nib, touching the black area, and getting ink on my hands :D Hopefully I won't be tempted to play with it again/

SweetieStarr
06-30-2009, 08:11 PM
For my unit, I'm the company clerk. So I was taken by "pens" to use as part of our barracks impression, and to use it for signing guys on the roster, and to give out weekend passes. And eventually to make "hand written letters" from home addressed to each member (together with easy to reproduce v-mail).

I first was thinking about getting a Conklin Glider, after seeing it on the Allied Workshop Page.
http://www.alliedworkshops.com/vintage.shtml

But then looking for what else Conklin had I found the "Victory Pen" which was made for soldiers. So that is the one I'm starting with. should get it tommorrow.

From there I think I will start exploring pens that would have been available to a soldier in WW2. Should be an interesting study.

The only problem I have with foundation pen, was the last time I used one, I was a kid in school. And I found myself playing with the nib, touching the black area, and getting ink on my hands :D Hopefully I won't be tempted to play with it again/

Sounds great! I'm glad you started with the Victory, since it is less expensive then the Glider. The Victory got some fine reviews and I am interested to hear what other period pens you find in your study.

Davep
06-30-2009, 09:20 PM
Good places to get ink?

Things to look for or stay away from?

Shangas
06-30-2009, 09:39 PM
I use bottled ink, and have done since the age of 13. There are several reasons for this...

1. Bottled ink is cheaper in the long-run.
2. Bottled ink looks nicer.
3. Bottled ink comes in more variety.
4. Bottled ink means that you fill and flush your pen when you use it, thereby keeping the pen clean.

I don't use cartridges, because...

1. They're more expensive.
2. They can dry out faster.
3. It adds to landfill.
4. As ink only flows one way (out of the cartridge), there's the possibility of ink drying in the nib and feed, which will clog the pen, something that's less likely to happen if you bottle-feed a fountain pen, with ink going both ways, and flushing the feed clean with each refill.

Widebrim
06-30-2009, 10:26 PM
I use bottled ink, and have done since the age of 13. There are several reasons for this...

1. Bottled ink is cheaper in the long-run.
2. Bottled ink looks nicer.
3. Bottled ink comes in more variety.
4. Bottled ink means that you fill and flush your pen when you use it, thereby keeping the pen clean.

I don't use cartridges, because...

1. They're more expensive.
2. They can dry out faster.
3. It adds to landfill.
4. As ink only flows one way (out of the cartridge), there's the possibility of ink drying in the nib and feed, which will clog the pen, something that's less likely to happen if you bottle-feed a fountain pen, with ink going both ways, and flushing the feed clean with each refill.

Good points.:eusa_clap

Shangas
07-01-2009, 01:54 AM
Thanks, WideBrim :)

In response to Dave's post, at the top of this page...:

Any good pen or stationery store ought to have fountain pen ink. Just make sure it's ink FOR fountain pens. None of this Chinese/India ink, powdered ink, iron-gall ink, etc. As that stuff will clog up your pen and you can kiss grandpa's Parker '51' with which he wrote home passionate love-letters to Nana while fighting the Japs on Iwo Jima, goodbye.

I find that inks made by the old-school, well-established pen-companies, work best.

Waterman, Sheaffer, Parker, Montblanc (but beware of MB blue/black, it can be troublesome), Diamine, Conway-Stewart, etc, are all good fountain pen ink manufacturers. There's also the Noodler's Ink Co. which produces some really wonderful fountain pen inks. More expensive than normal, but then, these come in bigger bottles and in more colours than the known light-spectrum.

Dixon Cannon
07-01-2009, 12:06 PM
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/Quink.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quink

-dixon cannon

Dixon Cannon
07-01-2009, 12:15 PM
The pen I got from my Dad in 1966 is in fact a "Parker 51"

http://www.rickconner.net/penspotters/parker.51.html

While researching my Quink ink, I read up on the Parker 51
and thought, "Hey! That looks familiar!". Sure enough -
mine is the '51 Mark II, Flighter in Bungundy.
Here's a pic for your edification:

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/DadsParker51.jpg

-dixon '51 cannon

Davep
07-01-2009, 09:22 PM
I stumbled onto this, Noodlers' new line of WW2 inks, thier v-mail line
http://fpnkookychick.blogspot.com/2009/06/noodlers-v-mail-ink-series.html

I want a blue, but thier blue isn't dark enough for my liking.

But Dixon's suggestion of "quink" may be more up my alley. Here is a 60+ year old bottle of the stuff, I wonder if it still good? This is "micro-film" black ink

http://cgi.ebay.com/PARKER-QUINK-V-MAIL-INK-WW11-MAGIC-INGREDIENT_W0QQitemZ260437184948QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca34411b4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294 %3A50


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3600716154_1652b06e04_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3600716154_1652b06e04.jpg

FinalVestige79
07-01-2009, 09:51 PM
I got an original bottle of Quink and about 7 sets of original v-mail stationary I'm deciding whether to keep them for my display or not.

Dixon Cannon
07-01-2009, 10:55 PM
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/QuinkBox.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/Quinkreceipt.jpg

...after eleven years! Here's the receipt to prove it! This stuff is the greatest!

-dixon 'quink' cannon

Widebrim
07-01-2009, 11:04 PM
I stumbled onto this, Noodlers' new line of WW2 inks, thier v-mail line
http://fpnkookychick.blogspot.com/2009/06/noodlers-v-mail-ink-series.html

I want a blue, but thier blue isn't dark enough for my liking.

But Dixon's suggestion of "quink" may be more up my alley. Here is a 60+ year old bottle of the stuff, I wonder if it still good? This is "micro-film" black ink

http://cgi.ebay.com/PARKER-QUINK-V-MAIL-INK-WW11-MAGIC-INGREDIENT_W0QQitemZ260437184948QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca34411b4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294 %3A50


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3600716154_1652b06e04_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3600716154_1652b06e04.jpg

I've had and sold a couple of bottles. It will likely still be good, but you would be wise to filter it first to take out any "impurities."

Davep
07-01-2009, 11:31 PM
I've had and sold a couple of bottles. It will likely still be good, but you would be wise to filter it first to take out any "impurities."


How would you go about filtering it?

For the price the bottled is going for on ebay, it would be very cool to actually be using actual WW2 era ink. But obvious safer to use a new bottle.

Shangas
07-02-2009, 01:14 AM
Vintage ink is safe to use, provided...

1. It's not mouldy.

2. It hasn't turned to sludge or dried out.

3. It doesn't have impurities.

1 - answer - Can't use it! Chuck it out.

2 - answer - Sludgy ink can sometimes be saved, by adding water to it to reconstitute the ink to its original mixture of dye and water (that's all ink is!)

3 - answer - Strain the ink through something like a sieve or better yet, an old handkerchief, to catch any impurities.

If you're really lucky, you'll get a bottle with none of these problems. If so, go ahead and use it! Ink doesn't have an expiry date.

Edward
07-02-2009, 05:48 AM
mine is the '51 Mark II, Flighter in Bungundy.
Here's a pic for your edification:

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/DadsParker51.jpg

-dixon '51 cannon

I may be wrong, but that looks more like a 61 to me? Or is there just a lot of ink sitting on the business end? This is a 51:

http://munchkinwrangler.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/pens-0071.jpg

I wish Parker would reissue the 51 in a proper 51 format. They did do one as a special edition a few years ago, but it was silly money and not really a proper 51 internally. I suppose maybe they just think there isn't the market for it - and they'd know better than I, I imagine! - but wouldn't it be great to be able to buy a new 51 aeromatic fill in the sub-USD50 bracket?

Regarding the OP, I personally prefer bottled ink. Several reasons:

a. it's cheaper
b. better range of colours
c. more environmentally responsible (I can recycle the bottled inks).

I use a mix of pens which are traditional fountains, and others which are cartridge pens with which I use converters. I tend to carry more than one so I'm not caught on the hop. I can see how it would be useful to have a cartridge pen if travelling for long periods, though. If looking for a range of colours in cartridges, best I've seen is the Waterman range. Cheapest place to bulk-buy seems to be eBay.

John in Covina
07-02-2009, 07:49 AM
What is a "coffee Filter"?

Shangas
07-02-2009, 07:59 AM
Edward, I don't think that pen is a '61' or a '51'. I think it's a '45'. Parker '45's were produced during the 1960s. They only very recently STOPPED making them.

Whatever pen this is, it's not a 'flighter'. Flighters had stainless steel caps and barrels with black hoods. This only has a stainless-steel cap, and therefore, is not a flighter.

Dixon Cannon
07-02-2009, 04:16 PM
I may be wrong, but that looks more like a 61 to me? Or is there just a lot of ink sitting on the business end? This is a 51:

Here's the 61: http://www.rickconner.net/penspotters/parker.61.html Look at that tip.
The 61s can be distinguished from 51s by the little metal arrow inlaid just behind the point.

Here's the 51: Mark II (1948-1969)
-Arrow clip
-Aerometric filler (full-length steel capsule with black plastic end cap) under removable barrel.
-Metal barrel models: Flighter (brushed stainless steel), Signet (gold-filled),
-Presidential (solid gold).
-Black, Midnight Blue, Navy Gray, Cocoa, Forest Green, Burgundy, Teal Blue

-dixon cannon

Dixon Cannon
07-02-2009, 04:23 PM
... a Parker 45 Burgundy Gold Trim with Dome Fountain Pen Medium Nib, it is!
http://www.montgomerypens.com/product_detail.asp?product_id=1815

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/dixon-cannon/parker45_burgundydome_fp_bg.jpg

Next! :D

-dixon cannon

Shangas
07-02-2009, 04:56 PM
Oooh yah! Oooh yah! Who called it? Who called it!?

I KNEW I WAS RIGHT! w00t!!

Nice pen, anyway :) I like '45's.

Davep
08-10-2009, 08:58 AM
I recently purchased some blue/black quink. I noticed that after a few days of not using the pen, the ink will start out a faded lite green tinted blue, rather than the deep blue/black.

If I start writing the color comes back, but never as rich. I reloaded the pen with fresh ink, and of course the color is great. But I'm wondering if this is something that is par for the course

Davep
08-25-2009, 12:46 PM
you shall recieve something that looks like http://www.anythingleft-handed.co.uk/acatalog/577_b.jpg


with which you do...what he shows in the video

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1106754/filling_a_piston_cartridge_converter_fountain_pen/

there...you are now inked and dangerous


ps...i sort of -like- the bizzare colors I end up with by not -really- flushing out pens well...i rinse..but i have not enough patience for it.

I got a pen, that didn't come with the converter. Are most of the good converters, universal?

SweetieStarr
08-25-2009, 12:49 PM
I got a pen, that didn't come with the converter. Are most of the good converters, universal?

Many converters are universal, but some (like Parker's) are not. Just make sure the converter is designated universal before you buy it and it should be fine. Also, check on the brand of your pen to see if it takes universal converters or if they are proprietary.

John in Covina
08-25-2009, 02:26 PM
I got a pen, that didn't come with the converter. Are most of the good converters, universal?
***********
No not always, depends on the pen and the maker.
Also some pens are too small to take a converter.

What did you get? Call a good pen shop and ask there, if you can go to one, bring the pen and the cartridge so they can match them up.

Davep
08-25-2009, 02:39 PM
It's a Conklin Victory, I have three one for each ink color :)
Two came with the converter, the last I got one didn't

http://conklinpens.com/images/pens/victory/victory_hero.jpg

John in Covina
08-25-2009, 03:20 PM
Does it say anything on the converters you got for the other colors?
Does the instructions say anything about what cartridge to use?

A lot of pens use what's called the International short cartridge which is the style Montblanc cartridges are. If it's like that then a converter like Schmidt brand or those for Lamy or Rotring may work if they aren't too long.

Some online pen shop sites have pix of cartridges and converters so you may be able to match up by sight, but if you're going to buy one from a pen shop first check the other converter you have that it fits and bring it and the pen to the store, failing that call and discuss with the pen shop. Most converters are 5-6 bucks and a few up to 10 bucks for the special one off model ones.

Davep
08-25-2009, 04:18 PM
On the other purchases, the converters came inside with the pen. None had markings.

I found a website that sells them with no pictures and their own internal part number.

Ethan Bentley
09-29-2009, 01:42 PM
Having used both and as I have about 6 fountain pens with different colours on the go at once, I prefer cartridges. I get all the colours I want, I use waterman. If I were to use a convector my preference would be the screw bladder, neatest solution I think.

John in Covina
09-29-2009, 02:21 PM
I'd just like to throw into the mix that cartridges had been concieved of prior to the 1950's with some early GLASS cartridges were actually used by some of the pen makers. As I recall it's Waterman that persues the cartridge fountain pen and found that buyers still wanted the option of bottled inks so most but not all cartridge pens can use converters to satisfy that need.

It must be noted that today's high end pens in the Pelikan and Montblanc line with a few others still are bottle fill only. The Montblanc 149 / Diplomat, Lamy 2000 and Pelikan's 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000 series (collectively known as the Souvreign line) use the body barrel as the reservoir and the built in filling mechanism is similar in function to the screw type converter. There are versions of the squeeze bulb converter out there too.

Prior to cartridges most pens used a rubber sac also known as a bladder as the resoirvoir and it'a natural shape was open so various designs to compress that bladder were devised such as lever fillers and end buttons like Paker's Duofolds. Once compressed and released the bladder openes up to draw in ink thru the submerged nib and feed and holds it similar to the way an eye dropper works.

The draw back in the past was as the sac aged it cracked and leaked at the most inopportune times. Also the gases released by the sac as it aged and broke down would "amber" the color of the barrels, which is why so many old pens have dark barrels and lighter colored caps. These days the modern sacs are made of better materials.

I can't recall which makers use sacs today except Conklin's modern crescent filler and I think Bexley has done some.

Delta has an eyedropper fill fountain pen in the Dolce Vita series and that is "Old School" for sure.

I tend to shy away from cartridges myself.