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I'm not sure that's a Mallory. Maybe the box is, and the seller thought the hat might be as well. Either way, it looks like a nice hat.

looks like a great buy!

Stetson X's - history??

Hi - I just arrived, stumbled upon this impressive Forum some days back, just became validated

I have been wearing Western felt hats (Stetson, Dobbs, Resistol, Stetson again) for ~ 45 years, and noticed what seems to be something of an 'x' inflation. Also noted the change from the Stetson lining trade mark ("The Last Drop From His Stetson") from embroidered in my first hat, ca mid-60's xxx to printed, then embroidered again on a 30x I picked up on Ebay a few years back.

Some years ago I made efforts to telephone Stetson, and speak with them about historic changes and what exactly the XX's are, and how they may have evolved over time (inflated!). I believe that they signify the % beaver vs. wool felt, but that seems to have changed considerably over the years. Recently, I saw something called, "Authentic x" - but it looked suspiciously like a new, much lower, quality.

Any info or links to info would be much appreciated!

I realize that this may have been fully addressed here before, but I have tried for a while to search the many threads, but it has overwhelmed me, so please direct me if you will, and delete or relocate my query as you see fit.

Cheers, MZ

Try this

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=24532&highlight=x+factor

mzungu said:

Hi - I just arrived, stumbled upon this impressive Forum some days back, just became validated

I have been wearing Western felt hats (Stetson, Dobbs, Resistol, Stetson again) for ~ 45 years, and noticed what seems to be something of an 'x' inflation. Also noted the change from the Stetson lining trade mark ("The Last Drop From His Stetson") from embroidered in my first hat, ca mid-60's xxx to printed, then embroidered again on a 30x I picked up on Ebay a few years back.

Some years ago I made efforts to telephone Stetson, and speak with them about historic changes and what exactly the XX's are, and how they may have evolved over time (inflated!). I believe that they signify the % beaver vs. wool felt, but that seems to have changed considerably over the years. Recently, I saw something called, "Authentic x" - but it looked suspiciously like a new, much lower, quality.

Any info or links to info would be much appreciated!

I realize that this may have been fully addressed here before, but I have tried for a while to search the many threads, but it has overwhelmed me, so please direct me if you will, and delete or relocate my query as you see fit.

Cheers, MZ

Click to expand...

carouselvic said:

Try this

Click to expand...

Thanks! that's a start couple of years back I perused , Jeffrey B. Snyder's book, Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Hat Company: 1865-1970
but was disappointed not to find much about this - either historical changes or x details.

cheers, MZ

Please help me identify this style of hat

please help the newbie!
I absolutely love old photographs and stumbled upon this picture of a man in the most perfect style of hat for me, but I do not even know what that style would be so I can start my search for one, also in this same picture he is wearing a real nice coat, I am assuming it is wool, would this be a herring bone pattern wool overcoat? if only I could look this good.
I am not sure yet on how to post pictures, but here is a link to the time life photograph.
the credits say this was taken in 1958 in the month of Feb.
thank you for your help in advance.
http://images.google.com/hosted/lif...fedora&hl=en&safe=off&imgurl=fce37258caae9892

Looks like a back-bow flat top. It's similar to a porkpie.
I sold several of them this past summer- take a look at what they look like in person.

I don't know if anyone's still making this style. It seems to have been a late '50s trend. Best bet would be to go vintage (although head size is a big factor in going that route). This style doesn't typically command top dollar.











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Your hats do look like the one in that picture, I will have to watch for vintage.
Thanks! I did not even notice in the picture that the bow was in the back until I went back and looked at it after reading your reply. you have a good eye

GallatinHatMan said:

Any idea what this Mallory Barrister's age might be?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110451594098&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I'd never heard of the model but couldn't resist for the price.

Click to expand...

Barrister is the name of the company, not the model. I've got one around here somewhere. Can't give a good estimate of the age, but I'm thinking 40's for some reason.

Regards,
Tom

New guy here....what's an Optimo Dillinger gonna set me back? Would I be foolish in emailing them asking them to buy a raw body in Oxblood?

Welcome jlee562 This is a nice place I hope you enjoy it here. The number for Optimo is 773 238-2999.

Help!

Hiy'all,
I have a hat that I have to stretch and another that I would like to soften so if anyone could point me to or send me step by step instructions I would be eternally grateful. Have found some things but I think that the more I study the better my chance for success

Ohh, BTW...

Scott Wood said:

Hiy'all,
I have a hat that I have to stretch and another that I would like to soften so if anyone could point me to or send me step by step instructions I would be eternally grateful. Have found some things but I think that the more I study the better my chance for success

Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that after I soften that western I want to completely recrease it :eusa_doh:

streatching or recreasing

I've done that quite a few times with western felts as I prefer what I think is called a Sundance crease - the old-fashioned flat top with round indent all the way around - like in the old Clint Eastwood movies - only bad thing is it catches rain

I used to just soak a new XXX or XXXX (back before X-inflation) Stetson or other good hat in hot water, shape it, and let it dry - but I wouldn't reccomend that so much any more-

just steam - that's how they make em as far as I know, and recently I have done it that way with good success.

To change the crease, take out the liner, then if you can carefully turn the inside band down - you don't want to heat the leather over ~ 150 degrees or it will ruin it ! Then you can put on the kettle and steam inside & out (probably would work just on the outside if felt is not too heavy, save you from messing with the liner except that it's a lot easier to crease if your hands are inside and out against the felt) It gets quite soft and pliable pretty quickly then. If you have a mold, great - use it, (I actually made a plaster cast of an older hat, and used it to re-crease a 30X Stetson I got on Ebay for only $125) or just stroke it with your fingers until it looks right.

To stretch, again must not over heat the leather band - I have had success just steaming around the outside - if you have a wide cloth hat band like a lot of Fedoras do, you probably need to take it off unless you can turn the inside band down, carefully steam the inside, pop the band back up and pull it on your head before it cools. Sometimes it helps to put some cereal-box thickness strips of cardboard inside the band, or just hold a thickness or two of it, or piece of thin foam, on your forehead to get a little extra stretch, then it will shrink back to your head.

I got a hat once, practically new XXXX Stetson, that was 1/8 too small - managed to get it right.

Eventually, I made an oval out of plywood after trial and error cardboard pattern of the inside of my hat to fit my head. Then I stapled cut strips of plastic milk carton, angled slightly, on the edge of the 3/4 " plywood to make the contact area smooth. Then, when I found that I needed it just a leetle bit bigger, stapled a strip of that ~ 1/8 inch foam you get as packing sometimes. Two ~ 1inch finger holes in the middle of the plywood make it easy to hold and push into the hat and get it out. If my hat begins to get a bit tight from too much hot weather, or being sweaty and let dry too many times - I will just steam the outside around the narrow horsehair band and cram that plywood jig back in

probably other folks have other, maybe better ideas

Scott Wood said:

I have a hat that I have to stretch and another that I would like to soften so if anyone could point me to or send me step by step instructions I would be eternally grateful.

Click to expand...

Lots of threads on this. Check here -

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/search.php?searchid=1770634

Thanks to all

Thanks for all the input.
Just resized the Akubra steaming and stretching a bit, repeat. Last time I stuffed the sweat band as I do to make a hat a bit smaller and rammed it onto my noggin.
Now without the stuffing isits about right :eusa_clap
Thinking about how exactly to tackle the western now...
Always have to psyche myself when trrying somethong new for the first time
so thanks to everyone again,
Scooter

another success(so far)

Took my old Smithbilt 10 Gallon cowboy, only worn for skiing in the 70s when they were in style for that, and with steam got the almost unbashed crown down from 6" to 4.5" and into a teardrop. To take up all that felt I almost have a porkpie and, when it is absolutely bone dry I am going to beat it some to soften it, it is something I will wear again. The steaming brought out some stains so I had to get them out and overall I think it's a success :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Thanks all,
Scooter

p.s. Managed to get a "bash" of homemade burgers grilled too

is there a thread on , how can i say this nice , lower quality hat makers to stear clear of? im thinking Dorfman Pacific would be on the list. if there isnt such a thread ild like to start one if its ok.