An elusive detail of early 1900s mens fashion

[Wolfmanjack]

Here is an elusive detail of early 1900?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s fashion that I have always wondered about, but never had anyone to ask. Now I have my colleagues at The Fedora Lounge as a resource!

The item I am referring to is a white, starched cotton or linen lining/piping around the front neck area of a gentleman?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s vest. I am led to understand that this was very much a social-status symbol, worn only by upper-class gentlemen. Here is a detail from a portrait of President Woodrow Wilson Wearing one of these:

http://www.geocities.com/timberwolfmanjackie/W.Wilson2.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this thing is called? Does anyone know how these were attached to the vest? Am I correct that they were made of starched cotton or linen? Where could I get one? How could I make one?

I think this is a very ?¢‚ǨÀúspiffy?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ little detail that would lend a very distinguished touch to an early 1900?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s outfit.

[Evan Everhart]

Here is an elusive detail of early 1900?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s fashion that I have always wondered about, but never had anyone to ask. Now I have my colleagues at The Fedora Lounge as a resource!

The item I am referring to is a white, starched cotton or linen lining/piping around the front neck area of a gentleman?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s vest. I am led to understand that this was very much a social-status symbol, worn only by upper-class gentlemen. Here is a detail from a portrait of President Woodrow Wilson Wearing one of these:

http://www.geocities.com/timberwolfmanjackie/W.Wilson2.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this thing is called? Does anyone know how these were attached to the vest? Am I correct that they were made of starched cotton or linen? Where could I get one? How could I make one?

I think this is a very ?¢‚ǨÀúspiffy?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ little detail that would lend a very distinguished touch to an early 1900?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s outfit.

That is a waist-coat slip. They were originally made as actual white vests of linen or flannel which were worn underneath another waist-coat to keep out the cold, they later became a stylistic detail which was emulated by button in or attached white edging on waist-coat neck-lines to give the fashionable or stylistic impression of an actual waist-coat slip being worn beneath without the increased warmth which they inevitably afforded (this was especially reasonable for those who had to have "the look" but did not enjoy the heat).

Cheers!

[filfoster]

That is a waist-coat slip. They were originally made as actual white vests of linen or flannel which were worn underneath another waist-coat to keep out the cold, they later became a stylistic detail which was emulated by button in or attached white edging on waist-coat neck-lines to give the impression of an actual waist-coat slip being worn beneath.

Cheers!

I had noticed these and just assumed it was piping. This is one of the most interesting things I've read in the Lounge. Thanks!

["Skeet" McD]

I had noticed these and just assumed it was piping. This is one of the most inberesting things I've read in the Lounge. Thanks!

I'll second that. Does anyone have one of these in their collection who could give us a few images of the "working details"?

"Skeet"

[Evan Everhart]

I'll second that. Does anyone have one of these in their collection who could give us a few images of the "working details"?

"Skeet"

They're beyond easy to make sir. Go to your local fabric supplier, get a bit of white or more preferably, just-off-white coloured (ivory coloured?) flannel (to contrast a bit with the white shirt with which you will be wearing this as it is a garment more usually seen with more formal clothing) and a bit of cheap half-bleached muslin (not the ultra bleached, and not the raw, un-bleached sort either), get yourself a basic pattern, or simply copy one of your own well-fitting waist-coats (preferably the one which you will most often be wearing your waist-coat slip beneath) and trace out the pattern from your vest onto some large sheets of tracing or butcher paper (I usually use tracing as it is more versatile in these sort of things if you need to put a piece over something to trace it instead of tracing around the traced object), after having made your basic pattern, make sure that when worn, the neck-line of your waist-coat slip is marginally higher than that of the vest under which you will be wearing it, a quarter to an eighth of an inch should be fine though a quarter is more likely to remain visible at all times. If you want just a bare minimum of your slip to show (oh my! Sir, you slip is showing!) you can even sew button-holes; two to either side of the front fastening along the neck-line and usually the waist-coat slips are made with a square or flat bottom edge so as not to unfashionably and tastelessly peek out from the bottom of the waist-coat. So yes, the muslin should be used to interline the waist-coat and provide its back and the flannel should be used for the front (though linen looks quite nice too when it is in a fine suiting weight and not that coarse dross that is sold at most fabric and crafts stores) look to a fabric seller who specializes in suitings such as B. Black & Sons of Los Angeles. The entire waist-coat may even be made of flannel if you like or are particularly sensitive to the cold. Also, if you have trouble sewing button-holes or don't know how to do it, any tailor should be able to do this for you....Though, they will probably charge you too much....Look at between three and seven a button-hole depending upon where you live, and how much of a crook your tailor is. The project itself is extremely easy. Just remember to hem the edges of the fabric and even if the entire outer shell of the waist-coat slip is flannel to line it with muslin as this will keep it from over-heating you. Also make allowances for the hems and seams. When completed, you will also have to sew corresponding buttons under the edge of the outer waist-coats neck-line. Enjoy and good luck!

Cheers!

["Skeet" McD]

They're beyond easy to make sir....Enjoy and good luck!

Cheers!

Dear Evan,
Thank you for taking the time to write out such a good description, which is certainly very easy to follow. I always like to examine original garments whenever possible, however...as the devil is in the details, and many things which "they" did as a matter of course don't naturally occur to us.

So...now that we have such good instructions, I repeat: anyone out there have one of these in their collection? Can we see, too?

"Skeet"

[Marc Chevalier]

There's a vintage clothing store in Burbank, CA --"Junk for Joy"-- that used to import vintage Japanese menswear (ironic but true). They brought in a ton of Japanese inverness capes, morning coats, striped trousers and waistcoats. The waistcoats were mostly from the 1950s and '60s, but they all had white slips, which were buttoned onto mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on the inside edge of the vest. Wish I'd taken photos back then!


Here's a pic of some other waistcoat. You can see a button or two on the part of the slip that's at the back of the neck:

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u290/crosby_square/Picture425.jpg

[Tomasso]

http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/05_02/weddingDM3005_468x400.jpg

[Evan Everhart]

There's a vintage clothing store in Burbank, CA --"Junk for Joy"-- that used to import vintage Japanese menswear (ironic but true). They brought in a ton of Japanese inverness capes, morning coats, striped trousers and waistcoats. The waistcoats were mostly from the 1950s and '60s, but they all had white slips. buttoned to mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on the inside edge of the vest. Wish I'd taken photos back then!


Here's a pic of some other waistcoat. You can see a button or two on the part of the slip that's at the back of the neck:

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u290/crosby_square/Picture425.jpg

A little off topic (on my part) but, I got a Gorgeous 2X6 DB ivory twill woolen scoop-neck waist-coat with ivory buttons with a rolled edge and barely visible (under the rolled edge) gold wire lining on the buttons with two waist-pockets from Junk For Joy some years ago! They have great stuff here and there but they're devils about buying at times and most of the stuff is absolute rubbishy polyester! UGH!!!

I wish that I'd seen the slipped waist-coats! Dang! I'll have to head back there some time soon! Spot on Marc, as Always!

I'm going to have to check for striped trousers too!

[Evan Everhart]

http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/05_02/weddingDM3005_468x400.jpg

I'm off topic here (again) but, Charles is usually dressed alright as to the actual garments, but the way that he wears them is sometimes so appalling! He lacks any actual style in the way that he wears his garments. He is not a stylish man and a gentleman is after all differentiated from an ordinary man by the way in which he wears his garments. I think a lot of those garments were inherited or his tailors picked out and designed them en toto.

I can't stand the man! He just strikes me as rather vapid and lax in most things. Come on! He showed up in a morning coat with a crease ironed into the front of the sleeve! It's just WRONG! The clothes looking like they are new is beyond tasteless.

This said, the slip is rather nice and good pic of one!

[Marc Chevalier]

I wish that I'd seen the slipped waist-coats! Dang! I'll have to head back there some time soon! Spot on Marc, as Always!



Thanks, Evan! It took years, but "Junk for Joy" finally sold out of the waistcoats. I saw only one still there a few months ago, in a very small size. I went back recently: it was gone. :(


There might be a few striped trousers left. Since they were from Japan, the sizes ran small.



.

[Marc Chevalier]

Come on! He showed up in a morning coat with a crease ironed into the front of the sleeve! It's just WRONG! T



He's imitating a style from the heyday of Earl Mountbatten, his mentor. It's not so much wrong as outdated. Then again, so are slips. ;)

.

[Evan Everhart]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/DeathinanAlley/SirTomasTalbotLeylandScarisbrick191.jpg
Sir Tomas Talbot Leyland Scarisbrick in 1914 in Morning Wear with a waist-coat slip, spats, a cut-away frock-coat and spatterdashes or button top Balmorals (I can't tell in this photograph). Good show and good chap! (interestingly, he's wearing turn-ups: cuffs, on his trousers! WHOA!)

[Tomasso]

........

[Tomasso]

Come on! He showed up in a morning coat with a crease ironed into the front of the sleeve! It's just WRONG! The clothes looking like they are new is beyond tasteless.All of his coats are pressed that way. That's how he rolls. It's a military thing, going back centuries. They've been doing it on Savile Row since day one.

[Matt Deckard]

You can do it to modern coats, but it takes the weight of a military one to really cary the crease. I myself prefer the look. Yet not being a gentleman might be the cause.

I have a morning suit from 1914.. Unfortunately, no slip for the vest. Yet still a good looking outfit!

[Evan Everhart]

All of his coats are pressed that way. That's how he rolls. It's a military thing, going back centuries. They've been doing it on Savile Row since day one.

(ARGH! I'm still off topic!) Has someone set up a Prince Charles: Like or Dislike thread? They should!

Yes, you get the suit like that, but it looks too prissy and stiff to keep them like that. In this instance, I have to agree with what Fred Astaire did. He literally beat the newness out of his clothes. Wearing anything which is too pristine, meaning that it looks like it has never been worn or worn into the personality of the wearer is rather gauche in my opinion. The military for parade and such is one thing, they have no choice, but he's a lax nobleman who does next to nothing!

Maybe it's just me because he rubs me the wrong way as far as anything else with him, but I don't particularly like his style or the fact that everything looks so over-pressed. It looks like he's trying too hard.

I've just started a discussion thread on old Chazzy-boy:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=45652

[Tomasso]

Wearing anything which is too pristine, meaning that it looks like it has never been worn or worn into the personality of the wearer is rather gauche in my opinion.I really don't think that you have a very accurate handle on the DoW.



http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2009/05/21/article-1186234-050B9654000005DC-621_468x702.jpg




http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2009/01/31/article-1132816-033F9CFA000005DC-244_468x286.jpg

[Orgetorix]

I really don't think that you have a very accurate handle on the PoW.


Fixed that for you.

[Tomasso]

Thanks. :o

[Matt Deckard]

Fixed that for you.

Irony.

[Wolfmanjack]

Evan and others, thank you for your informative replies.

It was worth the 4-year wait.

Here are two early 20th Century U.S. Presidents wearing waistcoat slips:

http://www.popcrunch.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/wilson-woodrow.jpg
http://thebsreport.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/calvin-coolidge.jpg

[Mysterious Mose]

Prince of Wales- King of the Fogeys.

[Marc Chevalier]

Evan and others, thank you for your informative replies.

It was worth the 4-year wait.



In the end, it's just a long strip of white cloth -- nearly the width of ticker tape-- with a series of buttonholes in it.

.

[Mysterious Mose]

...I can't stand the man! He just strikes me as rather vapid and lax in most things...

(ARGH! I'm still off topic!) Has someone set up a Prince Charles: Like or Dislike thread? They should!...

.... The military for parade and such is one thing, they have no choice, but he's a lax nobleman who does next to nothing!

Maybe it's just me because he rubs me the wrong way as far as anything else with him, but I don't particularly like his style or the fact that everything looks so over-pressed. It looks like he's trying too hard.

I've just started a discussion thread on old Chazzy-boy:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=45652

If I said this about your President I'd be suspended. [huh]

[Matt Deckard]

Perhaps.

["Skeet" McD]

If I said this about your President I'd be suspended. [huh]
Good point. And I assure you--it's not because I'm a great fan of the current President, by any means! It is the office, or position, that should be respected.

I am very grateful to our colleague Evan for his knowledge and very generous assistance; but I am sure he would agree that gentlemen don't indulge in this sort of thing. In public at least....:rolleyes:

"Skeet"

[draws]

http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/05_02/weddingDM3005_468x400.jpg
Is it me or did the lady to his left stick her finger in a light socket?

[filfoster]

In the end, it's just a long strip of white cloth -- nearly the width of ticker tape-- with a series of buttonholes in it.

.
Yeah, but it is just that elegant little touch.

[Evan Everhart]

Is it me or did the lady to his left stick her finger in a light socket?

No, I think that while on safari, she got a porcupine stuck in her perm....But, with wings like that in that perm of hers, they can probably go on safari frequently as they can fly for free!

[Evan Everhart]

If I said this about your President I'd be suspended. [huh]

Why would you be? In America, we may speak our minds about anything we wish. Even racist trash are free to speak their minds as long as they do not actively encourage violence by the law's standards, it's the American way!

I think that Barack Obama is a terrible dresser at least at formal occasions, what he wore to his inaugural ball was APPALLING and poorly cut. No one should wear a notched lapel tail coat its just bad form, the thing fit him poorly, the tie looked like a clip on, and the waist-coat was poorly cut and too low for such a tall chap. It made his torso look shabby and long instead of making his legs look long or average as it should depending upon your respective height. George W. Bush was an Appalling dresser as well and always wore poorly tailored business suits that barely looked a step over a bad polyester leisure suit! His suits barely if ever showed any cuff for most of his two terms (how did he even get elected for two terms with his poor speaking abilities, it's Amazing) (What I just said about President Bush may annoy some people or be disagreed upon by some, but it is still OK, because American can and are encouraged to speak their minds as Americans). There is not much latitude to what one as a head of state may wear, at least in regards to colours and patterns, but one may, and must still wear clothing which fits perfectly to look the part. What ever happened to Presidents giving their inaugural speech in Morning Dress?! We lost a lot of culture and civilized elegance when we allowed that tradition to stop.

There is, I reiterate, nothing, absolutely nothing wrong with discussing the style or lack there of, of any respective head of state or dignitary, this has been common practice for the better part of the last hundred and fifty years or so, maybe more. Say what you feel! :)

[Brummagem Joe]

I'm off topic here (again) but, Charles is usually dressed alright as to the actual garments, but the way that he wears them is sometimes so appalling! He lacks any actual style in the way that he wears his garments. He is not a stylish man and a gentleman is after all differentiated from an ordinary man by the way in which he wears his garments. I think a lot of those garments were inherited or his tailors picked out and designed them en toto.

I can't stand the man! He just strikes me as rather vapid and lax in most things. Come on! He showed up in a morning coat with a crease ironed into the front of the sleeve! It's just WRONG! The clothes looking like they are new is beyond tasteless.

This said, the slip is rather nice and good pic of one!

......With all due respect don't be ridiculous........he's probably the most consistently best dressed and most stylish man in the world for nearly forty years.......whether it's laying out gardens, choosing appropriate architecture, cutting peat, or choosing a suit, he invariably displays perfect taste......I happened to be in the UK a few weeks ago and he popped up on an antiques show being held in almost perfect Adam house packed with Chippendale furniture that he'd orchestrated the rescue of.....apart from the beauty of his surroundings he was perfectly dressed in a double breasted large houndstooth jacket worn with toning trousers and French cuffed shirt......the effect as ever was stylish but comfortable elegance.

[Evan Everhart]

......With all due respect don't be ridiculous........he's probably the most consistently best dressed and most stylish man in the world for nearly forty years.......whether it's laying out gardens, choosing appropriate architecture, cutting peat, or choosing a suit, he invariably displays perfect taste......I happened to be in the UK a few weeks ago and he popped up on an antiques show being held in almost perfect Adam house packed with Chippendale furniture that he'd orchestrated the rescue of.....apart from the beauty of his surroundings he was perfectly dressed in a double breasted large houndstooth jacket worn with toning trousers and French cuffed shirt......the effect as ever was stylish but comfortable elegance.

I am entitled to my own opinion. I simply don't like his choice in colour pallet or his choice in low cut Kent or Windsor (whichever name one chooses to apply to them) DB suits for many years, or his choice of plaids often enough (for his DB suits et al), or the heavy creases in the coat-sleeves of his Morning Coats, or his choice in women. In other respects, he is appropriate if not necessarily stylish in a manner which I like, would emulate, or consider stylish in his (or anyone else's) clothing. I've never said that he was not appropriately dressed, merely that I do not and cannot approve of his sense of style as it is rather bland and banal by my standards and in comparison to the styles of several of his fore-bearers. I dislike the man on a personal level for his personal life, for his breaking up his marriage as he did. Why? When one has children, one should avoid breaking up one's family. It's a rotten deal, especially for a possible future figure-head of state, that was a particular injudicious and inappropriate action not suited to the dignity of his public role.

[Widebrim]

Getting back to waistcoat slips...I actually saw one last night as I was watching Cornered (1945) with Dick Powell. It was worn by a European exile in Argentina, and when I saw it, I said aloud, "It's one of those!" (And I would never had noticed it, had it not been for this thread...:rolleyes: )

[draws]

I am entitled to my own opinion. I simply don't like his choice in colour pallet or his choice in low cut Kent or Windsor (whichever name one chooses to apply to them) DB suits for many years, or his choice of plaids often enough (for his DB suits et al), or the heavy creases in the coat-sleeves of his Morning Coats, or his choice in women. In other respects, he is appropriate if not necessarily stylish in a manner which I like, would emulate, or consider stylish in his (or anyone else's) clothing. I've never said that he was not appropriately dressed, merely that I do not and cannot approve of his sense of style as it is rather bland and banal by my standards and in comparison to the styles of several of his fore-bearers. I dislike the man on a personal level for his personal life, for his breaking up his marriage as he did. Why? When one has children, one should avoid breaking up one's family. It's a rotten deal, especially for a possible future figure-head of state, that was a particular injudicious and inappropriate action not suited to the dignity of his public role.
Now, Now gentlemen. I appreciate everyone's opinion here and would hope that we now get down to the business of appropriate attire, etal. I too find that today's standards are more mundane than the styles of let's say more than two generations ago and it is irksome to see presidents and heads of state slouching through or diddley-bopping around like they were some cool dude. It takes away from their role of being leaders and spokesmen for their respective nations. Of the three heads of state mentioned, I give a thumbs up to Charles. At least he tries and his is an aire of dignity compared to the "other two" names mentioned. Just my two cents.

[Widebrim]

Now, Now gentlemen. I appreciate everyone's opinion here and would hope that we now get down to the business of appropriate attire, etal. I too find that today's standards are more mundane than the styles of let's say more than two generations ago and it is irksome to see presidents and heads of state slouching through or diddley-bopping around like they were some cool dude. It takes away from their role of being leaders and spokesmen for their respective nations. Of the three heads of state mentioned, I give a thumbs up to Charles. At least he tries and his is an aire of dignity compared to the "other two" names mentioned. Just my two cents.

Yes, heads of state represent their respective countries, whether they like it or not. And I agree with your choice of the three.

[Evan Everhart]

Getting back to waistcoat slips...I actually saw one last night as I was watching Cornered (1945) with Dick Powell. It was worn by a European exile in Argentina, and when I saw it, I said aloud, "It's one of those!" (And I would never had noticed it, had it not been for this thread...:rolleyes: )

AMEN to getting back to this thread's topic! I was watching the A&E Poirot: Evil Under the Sun last night and noticed that the Coroner at the beginning of the episode was wearing a waist-coat slip as well (not entirely surprising, but certainly very edifying!) I also noticed someone or other doing so in an episode of Sherlock Holmes the other night (the Jeremy Brett/A&E series) I think I might just have my tailor make up a waist-coat slip for me while I'm at it.

["Skeet" McD]

I think I might just have my tailor make up a waist-coat slip for me while I'm at it.

Good on yez! And, if you do, I hope you'll show us the results, as worn and with the vest opened up so we can see the inside....

"Skeet"

[Mysterious Mose]

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_tDZhmux-ePI/RpTLvL3RKfI/AAAAAAAAAH0/B4xeWMrwxhM/s1600/philippevb25.jpg

[Mysterious Mose]

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk:
http://uwmesp.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/ataturk1.jpg

http://www.magazinsel.com/scripts/news/img/news/ataturk14vh7.jpg

[filfoster]

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk:
http://uwmesp.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/ataturk1.jpg

http://www.magazinsel.com/scripts/news/img/news/ataturk14vh7.jpg
That is one sharp-dressed Attaturk!

[Evan Everhart]

Good on yez! And, if you do, I hope you'll show us the results, as worn and with the vest opened up so we can see the inside....

"Skeet"

I will most certainly do so, when I've had a new waist-coat made up for me! Thanks for the idea!

[Visconde]

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/78/Einstein1921_by_F_Schmutzer_4.jpg/479px-Einstein1921_by_F_Schmutzer_4.jpg

another pic

[Anthony Jordan]

Unfortunately my page on this subject went down when Geocities closed, but, to quote myself:

"Two options seem to be canvassed for the origin and purpose of slips, one being that they are a vestige of the under-waistcoat popular during the Regency period in Britain, when I understand it was fashionable to wear a number of waistcoats one over the other, with each just showing. Another explanation is that the slips were designed to guard against non-fast dyes from black waistcoats bleeding onto the shirt front. They seem to have died out more or less by the Second World War, except amongst the diehards. They can still be seen worn with morning dress on rare occasions, sported by such persons as the Lord Lieutenant of Durham and, most recently, HRH Prince Charles."

Herewith some pictures:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/Picture425.jpg (Familiar?)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/Picture426.jpg

Will try and find some better ones when I get home.

[dhermann1]

OK, how do you get the edges to fold over each other at the front, as if they were a separate garment? Does the edge just extend and you just tuck it under? If you had one made up, would it be a single piece of cloth folded over, with buttonholes put in? Is it made of the same material as the shirt?

[Anthony Jordan]

When I get home I will post some pictures which should illuminate. In the meantime, yes, the free ends rest one over the other. The slip illustrated here is of two piece construction with a fairly pronounced rib effect that is quite stiff to the touch - a little like a linen canvas, perhaps.

[Anthony Jordan]

As promised:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/001-11.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/002-9.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/003-7.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/004-8.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/AnthonyJordan_2006/My%20wardrobe/006-5.jpg

[daizawaguy]

My great grand father early 1900`s

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll134/daizawaguy/NikonSouthAfricaDec2009600.jpg

[boushi_mania]

Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.

[Wolfmanjack]

Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.

Do you have thrift shops in Japan? Seems like a good way to acquire a morning dress ensemble at an affordable price; although my size (44-46) might be hard to find.

[Marc Chevalier]

Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.





Aha! That explains this:





There's a vintage clothing store in Burbank, California --"Junk for Joy"-- that used to import vintage Japanese menswear (ironic but true). They brought in a ton of Japanese inverness capes, morning coats, striped trousers and waistcoats. The waistcoats were mostly from the 1950s and '60s, but they all had white slips, which were buttoned onto mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on the inside edge of the vest.

["Skeet" McD]

When I get home I will post some pictures which should illuminate. In the meantime, yes, the free ends rest one over the other. The slip illustrated here is of two piece construction with a fairly pronounced rib effect that is quite stiff to the touch - a little like a linen canvas, perhaps.

Dear Anthony,
Thank you so much for taking and posting these pictures. They are everything one could wish for. Pardon my taking such a long time to acknowledge your kindness...but the holidays combined with a good deal of snow-shoveling here in New England have conspired to undermine my best intentions.

Sincerely,
"Skeet"

[Anthony Jordan]

Dear Anthony,
Thank you so much for taking and posting these pictures. They are everything one could wish for. Pardon my taking such a long time to acknowledge your kindness...but the holidays combined with a good deal of snow-shoveling here in New England have conspired to undermine my best intentions.

Sincerely,
"Skeet"

You're very welcome! Here at my office in Cardiff its is snowing intermittently; when the heavier flakes are coming down the effect is rather charming - reminiscent of being inside a snow globe!

["Skeet" McD]

You're very welcome! Here at my office in Cardiff its is snowing intermittently; when the heavier flakes are coming down the effect is rather charming - reminiscent of being inside a snow globe!

Ahhhhh....and now you're making me think of the charming 1980s filming of A Child's Christmas in Wales!

"Skeet"

[B. Kleinsteuber]

Stewarts rival in the movie wears a vest slip in every scene he is featured in. He must have been one of the die hards that wouldn't give up that nice little added touch. Applause to anyone who has, or will have this nice accessory :eusa_clap .