Making spats

[Nick D]

Some time ago I posted pictures of a pair of spats I made. At the time I had taken progress photos, but never posted them. So here they are, to show some of the process.

I made the pattern by copying a pair of vintage spats I have. The exterior was made from gray cotton twill, and the lining from a fairly stiff cotton calico. There are 12 main pieces total, the large inside piece and the front and back outside pieces, and the accompanying lining pieces.

The shell and the lining pieces are sewn together and the seams pressed open.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00823.jpg

The shell and lining are put together, right sides together, and stitched. An opening is left on on the short vertical edge of the small rear outer piece to turn the spats. Small openings are also left on the lower edge for the strap and buckle. The spats are turned.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00826.jpg

Make the straps, turn, and topstitch.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00825.jpg

The spats are pressed, with the seam joining shell and lining favoring the inside so it can't be seen. The front and rear seam are topstitched to either side of the seam to keep the lining from shifting. The straps are inserted into the small openings left in the lower seam, the buckle is inserted with a small piece of grosgrain or petersham, and the outer edges are topstitched, sewing in the strap and buckle and closing the opening that had been left for turning.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00834.jpg

Corded keyhole buttonholes are best, and a long thread shank for the buttons. Sew the buttons with a matchstick over them to create an even shank.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00863.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00861.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00862.jpg

Work an eyelet into the strap, any number is fine but I just put in one at the proper length to fit me.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00865.jpg

Done!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/hawkthrower/DSC00866.jpg

I hope that will be of help to someone, I don't have any other progress photos but if anyone wants to see the pattern laid out or more description, let me know.

[Dr Kilroy]

Very nice work, especially for a spats fan like me. :) I would like to see these on shoes, or preferably even used in a whole outfit, too.

Best regards, Dr

[latinmajorac]

Very very impressive! sadly, i can't sew, but man am i jealous!

[Edward]

Nice! There certainly is a gap in the market, it seems to me, for someone producing these. 98% of the spats I find for sale are ghastly fancy dress confections, and most of the rest are either too small or moth-eaten. Or both!

[Charlie Huang]

Very good! Better than my attempt in fact!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs119.snc1/4986_100797287062_688147062_2565752_5514963_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs119.snc1/4986_100797297062_688147062_2565753_3103516_n.jpg

[Derek WC]

Thanks for the tutorial, Nick.

I've been trying to make a pair of spats for some time now, and every time I make them, when I put them on the seam on the heel is always off, why might this be?