<![CDATA[The Fedora Lounge - General Attire & Accoutrements]]> http://www.thefedoralounge.com/ Ties, watches, umbrellas, jewelry and all the accessories that add the finishing touches to your look. en Sat, 25 May 2013 23:56:44 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.thefedoralounge.com/images/Styles/Blackend/misc/rss.png <![CDATA[The Fedora Lounge - General Attire & Accoutrements]]> http://www.thefedoralounge.com/ Pre-1930s neckties http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71996-Pre-1930s-neckties&goto=newpost Fri, 24 May 2013 02:52:28 GMT Show us the really old ones in your collection. To get the ball rolling: Selvedge edge on front blade, as opposed to the usual stitched edge... Show us the really old ones in your collection.

To get the ball rolling:

Selvedge edge on front blade, as opposed to the usual stitched edge on 1930s ties.


Same selvedge edge as first tie.


Same selvedge edge


Another selvedge edge. Slip Easy neckband.




1929




]]> Dinerman http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71996-Pre-1930s-neckties London cloth company http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71984-London-cloth-company&goto=newpost Thu, 23 May 2013 17:07:21 GMT http://player.vimeo.com/video/65505078 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 http://player.vimeo.com/video/65505078




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 ]]> The Wiser Hatter http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71984-London-cloth-company Reccomendations for an Inexpensive Mesh-Uppered Summer Dress Shoe? http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71977-Reccomendations-for-an-Inexpensive-Mesh-Uppered-Summer-Dress-Shoe&goto=newpost Wed, 22 May 2013 22:24:02 GMT Good evening loungers,

I'm about ready to bump my current regular black office-work shoes down to the rigors of trolley service. :eeek: Given the messy fate about to befall my old pair, I've been looking for something more suitable for the summer months. My feet get hot just sitting at my desk all day.

Can anyone recommend a pair of semi-formal shoes with generous amounts of mesh/straw-like material? I'm looking for something spectator-like, but I doubt my just-out-of-college budget can handle most modern production spectator shoes. Color, sole material, and exact vintage qualities don't matter to me. Any suggestions at all are greatly appreciated!


Have a fantastic day,
Steven ]]> Swing Motorman http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71977-Reccomendations-for-an-Inexpensive-Mesh-Uppered-Summer-Dress-Shoe Hollyvogue Neckties http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71940-Hollyvogue-Neckties&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 04:32:41 GMT Show us your Hollyvogue ties, and share what you know of their history. The Hollyvogue name was first registered in 1926. To start, one of... Show us your Hollyvogue ties, and share what you know of their history.

The Hollyvogue name was first registered in 1926.

To start, one of their whipstitched western-themed "Stirrup" ties.

]]> Dinerman http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71940-Hollyvogue-Neckties Question about shrink to fit 501s http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71894-Question-about-shrink-to-fit-501s&goto=newpost Sat, 18 May 2013 18:27:57 GMT Hey folks. Got a question for anyone that has experience with the stf levis 501s. The preshunk version is always too tight on me due to my bigger... Hey folks. Got a question for anyone that has experience with the stf levis 501s. The preshunk version is always too tight on me due to my bigger thighs and I was thinking about trying the stf version with the hope that maybe if I wear them while they are still damp from the shrinking process that they may not shrink down too tight, or otherwise "mold" around me. Is this the case or will they just shrink down just like the preshrunk 501's? ]]> Dennis Holt http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71894-Question-about-shrink-to-fit-501s Palm Beach Neckties http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71854-Palm-Beach-Neckties&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 16:29:13 GMT Since the question was brought up over in the "Fedora Lounge Guide to Palm Beach Cloth" thread, I thought that Palm Beach ties should have their own thread, separate from the "Show us Your Ties" thread. I'd especially like to see the labels, to try to piece together a chronology of the company, in relation to that of the fabric manufacturer.

Beau Brummell of Cincinnati, OH, introduced Palm Beach cloth neckties in 1936. The 4 fold patent was granted in 1938.
While the Goodall Sanford mills, producers of Palm Beach cloth stopped producing the fabric c.1956, Beau Brummel continued producing neckties under the Palm Beach name well into the 1960s. It is possible that they bought fabric from Burlington Mills/Burlington industries on a limited basis. It's more likely that they continued the licensing agreement they had with Goodall Sanford Palm Beach with the Cincinnati based Palm Beach clothing company, which bought the rights to the name after the fabric mills were bought out.

Dating conventions of the fabric (see other thread, linked above) should hold true for the neckties.
1936-1944 should say "Goodall"
1944- should say "Goodall Sanford"
1949 - should have an (R) symbol, as does the one below



]]> Dinerman http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71854-Palm-Beach-Neckties <![CDATA['Campus' jacket]]> http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71840-Campus-jacket&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 03:57:45 GMT Hi All,

I've seen this style of jacket referred to as 'Campus' jackets:





They appear to be something akin to a button-up version of the famed 'Gaucho' pullover shirts. When were they popular - 1940s? They look pretty cool I think. Any info on them would be welcome, as they intrigue me! ]]> Benny Holiday http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71840-Campus-jacket Tips for tying a tie when paired with detachable collar? http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71839-Tips-for-tying-a-tie-when-paired-with-detachable-collar&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 03:05:34 GMT I've recently taken to wearing fold down detachable collars with my day suits. I love the look of them as they always look much
crisper than the stitched in variety. However, I have also found it much more difficult to tie my ties with these collars because they
do not slide easily (if at all) underneath the fold, which leads to my tie knot finishing off center. Does anybody out there have tips as to
how to avoid this happening? ]]> Freescholar http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71839-Tips-for-tying-a-tie-when-paired-with-detachable-collar <![CDATA[Harry Truman's Shoe Collection]]> http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71821-Harry-Truman-s-Shoe-Collection&goto=newpost Wed, 15 May 2013 16:56:58 GMT This article came to me via an online publication. If you're a shoe person, it's all good. Really good.

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/har...73eb5-38835005

If I've mis-posted to this thread, apologies. ]]> hatsRme http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71821-Harry-Truman-s-Shoe-Collection Help me out here. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71814-Help-me-out-here.&goto=newpost Wed, 15 May 2013 05:33:10 GMT Alright I know this is a crazy request but here me out. I like the way levis 550s fit other than the tapered legs , makes em look like "dad jeans". Sorry if I offended anyone that wears the 550, nothing personal. And yes I know they have the 559 that has a straight leg but they are all made of lightweight denim and are predistressed....don't want that. So I want to start a movement to get Levi Strauss to update the 550 jean with straight legs, keeping the same basic washes and heavyweight denim. So my request is that anyone who reads this go to the Levi's website and request these changes. I already did this myself but if I can get enough people on board maybe they will take notice and think "huh, we need to update the 550 to appease the masses". Also I think it would be cool to get a company the size of Levi's to make a change to one of their major products cause of a movement I started right here on this forum. HA! Anyway, thought I'd throw that out there. Thanks a bunch if you actually do this and thanks anyway even if ya don't.

P.S. The reason I can't just wear 501's or some other fit that has a straight leg is because I have large thighs....not just a general guy with slightly larger thighs than average but big ol suckers. Regular fit pants of any sort look silly on me and are really uncomfortable. ]]> Dennis Holt http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71814-Help-me-out-here. My new amazing knife! http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71718-My-new-amazing-knife!&goto=newpost Fri, 10 May 2013 11:54:54 GMT Just had to share this. It's a custom Strider RC. The RC was discontinued a few years back which made me want it eeven more. As a collector I love to get my mitts on discontinued knives. If you don't know knives Striders have a rep for very sturdy military/tactial knives. They are way overpriced IMO, but I love them.
]]> 1avrgjoe http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71718-My-new-amazing-knife! Home starching stiff shirt collars http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71703-Home-starching-stiff-shirt-collars&goto=newpost Thu, 09 May 2013 19:15:33 GMT Dear group, I've recently bought myself a tunic shirt from TM LEWIN and jolly handsome it is too, but of course now I need to get a selection of detachable collars. I rather like the look of the one's at Darcy Clothing
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/collars.html
As you may notice, they have the collars in starched and unstarched. I think I prefer the washable unstarched ones if I'm honest although they are more expensive.
Anyways, to the point. I understand that there are specialist outfits to launder and starch the collars, but at a price of course. I can't imagine that back in the day every chap could afford to have their collars professionally laundered, I imagine they did them at home. So, and now really to the point. If I were to buy the cheaper option of a starched collar rather than the washable, is it possible to make a reasonable job of starching it at home.
Thanks everyone. ]]> Dreamofgilgamesh http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71703-Home-starching-stiff-shirt-collars The Fedora Lounge Guide to Union Labels http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71679-The-Fedora-Lounge-Guide-to-Union-Labels&goto=newpost Wed, 08 May 2013 22:01:54 GMT Union labels can be useful in dating vintage clothing made in the United States and in Canada. However, there are some important things to keep in... Union labels can be useful in dating vintage clothing made in the United States and in Canada. However, there are some important things to keep in mind when using them as a resource. Not all clothing makers were unionized, and not all shops which were necessarily used union tags in their products, so you will not always find one. As with any other method of dating vintage clothing, there are always quirks and exceptions which cause issues when trying to assign a precise date to a garment. There is always overlap when new batches of tags come into a tailor's. When the new 1949 ACWA union tags came into a shop, the tailor would use the rest of the roll of 1939 tags up before transitioning to the new tags. As such, sometimes earlier tags show up in later garments. There will also, almost assuredly be a number of variant tags which did not make it into this guide. Keeping this in mind, never use a union tag as the sole means of assessing the age of a garment; always use it in combination with other dating methods.

The Tailor's National Progressive Union
1885-1889

Though founded after the Journeymen Tailor's Union of America, the Tailor's National Progressive Union was the first clothing union in the United States to issue a label on union made clothes in 1887. The Progressive union had jurisdiction over unionized tailors of ready-made clothing. The union had a socialist lean and was short lived, existing only from 1885-1889. (source)


The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America
1865-1876, 1883-1920s

The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America originally organized in 1865, but dissolved in 1876 after massive embezzlement of funds by one of its officers. It re-organized in 1883, and had jurisdiction over unionized custom tailors. Its refusal to accept "less skilled" otr and mtm tailors led to the formation of the UGWA. They first issued a union label in 1891. I can not find reference to the union past c.1929. Modern history books point to 1914 as the demise of the union, but period documents and garments show it was around until at least the 1920s.

Custom Tailor's Union Label.
Attachment 1217
Custom Tailor's Union Label variant.
Attachment 1218
1920s variant
Attachment 1224

(source)
Example from 1900

The United Garment Workers of America
1891-1994

The United Garment Workers of America was formed in 1891 by ready-made tailors who the Custom Tailor's Union had refused admission. They issued a union label shortly after their organization. In 1896, the UGWA started placing their union label on factory-made made to measure clothes, which the Custom Tailor's Union felt overstepped the jurisdiction of the UGWA union, creating friction between the rival unions. They resolved that the UGWA would have jurisdiction over all non-custom union made garments. In 1994, the UGWA merged into the United Food and Commercial Workers International Union (UFCW).

The United Garment Workers of America tag remained virtually unchanged from its first usage in 1891 until its last in 1994. The most notable change occurred c.1930, when the manufacturer number relocated from the side to the center of the label. The first two label variants date from the first decade of the 20th century. The second two are representative of what was used 1930s-1990s.

Tag from 1903. Note presence of signature of Henry White, General Secretary.
Attachment 1219

Tag from 1908. Slight difference in illustration of hands. In this example, the signature is omitted, though this is likely just for the ad in which this image originally appeared.
Attachment 1220

Depending on what was the tag was on, there could be different background text. Pictured is “clothing- clothing”. Other examples of background text would be “Duck Goods” or “Special Order”.
Attachment 1221
Generic variant omitting the background text, used for advertising purposes.
Attachment 1222

The United Textile Workers Union of America
1901-1939
Merged with the Textile Workers Organizing Committee (1937-1939) to form the Textile Workers Union of America
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]]> Dinerman http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71679-The-Fedora-Lounge-Guide-to-Union-Labels Decent dress trousers http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71674-Decent-dress-trousers&goto=newpost Wed, 08 May 2013 13:41:03 GMT There may be a thread on this already, so my apologies if I'm being duplicative, but I need to order some wool dress trousers of the type you'd wear with a sports coat or blazer. I generally like cuffed trousers, prefer suspender buttons, and like them to be pleated.

The last time I ordered any, I ordered them from Lands End and they turned out to be very light, and they blew out nearly immediately. I'm not repeating that experience. I've had L. L. Bean ones in the past that were much better. But, I know that in the 30s-50s trousers of this type had to be made of heavier wool and more durable, as many men wore them every day.

Suggestions? I don't like to buy clothes of this type frequently, but I do have a need to have them, so I'd like some that will hold up and I'm not keen on them being really light. ]]> Pat_H http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71674-Decent-dress-trousers Exquisite Panama Briefcase http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71667-Exquisite-Panama-Briefcase&goto=newpost Wed, 08 May 2013 00:52:07 GMT One of the sharpest cases I have ever seen. Tan leather with Panama weave insets and gold plated hardware. I can already imagine pairing it... One of the sharpest cases I have ever seen. Tan leather with Panama weave insets and gold plated hardware.


I can already imagine pairing it with a linen suit, Panama hat and spectator shoes.:cool:





























]]> A.C. Lyles http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71667-Exquisite-Panama-Briefcase