Show off the sports coats.

VintageEveryday · Oct 23, 2016

Metatron said:
Great jacket, but wasn't that a size 42?

No. It's a 44L

Metatron · Oct 24, 2016

the jacket from armpit to armpit was 22 inches according to the seller.
44 inches is the jacket measurement which isn't the same as the size:sport coats are generally designed with 2-4 inches of ease, making this one (by most standards) a 40-42. Hope it works out, anyway.

VintageEveryday · Oct 24, 2016

Metatron said:
the jacket from armpit to armpit was 22 inches according to the seller.
44 inches is the jacket measurement which isn't the same as the size:sport coats are generally designed with 2-4 inches of ease, making this one (by most standards) a 40-42. Hope it works out, anyway.[/QUO

Oh, you've seen the ebay listing?

willyto · Oct 24, 2016

Yes. I saw it too, IIRC it was 22 inches pit to pit but it might work for you.

I bought a mint 1930s overcoat from him.

VintageEveryday · Oct 26, 2016

willyto said:
Yes. I saw it too, IIRC it was 22 inches pit to pit but it might work for you.

I bought a mint 1930s overcoat from him.

this seller was dead wrong about the measurements of the sport coat I bought. He listed it as a size 44 in the title, while the measurements added up to a size 42, and it fits like a 38-40. The sleeve lining has twisted in on itself like a chinese finger trap, and the shoulders are sloping downward awkwardly (could be because it doesn't fit properly. I'm just very dissatisfied with this sport coat). I'm going to attempt to return it. I get, of course that the size and how it fits are two different things, but I know how vintage size suits fit me. The measurements add up to being smaller than a size 44, but this thing definitely fits MUCH smaller than that.

1mach1 · Oct 28, 2016

^^^^ That's a shame. Great looking coat, though.

Metatron · Oct 29, 2016

In fairness to the seller, the '44 ' in the title was referring to the chest measurement rather than size.
this is from the listing:

''
Estimated Size: 42

Chest Circumference: 44

Waist Circumference: 38

Shoulder Width (from shoulder seam to shoulder seam): 20.5

Sleeve Length (from shoulder seam to sleeve edge): 23.5

Back Length (from collar seam to jacket bottom): 31''

In my opinion these measurements correspond exactly to your description of the fit.
Lets compare the above to a more common size 40/42:
chest 44 inches same as the 1940s jacket
shoulders 19 inch vs 20.5 inch : it's a bold late 1940s style with exaggerated shoulders which explains the sloping.
waist 40 inch vs 38 inches: this jacket has a very fitted waist.
this might explain why you think the jacket seems smaller than a 42.

On ebay, people throw around 'size 40' 'size 42' willy nilly, and it has little meaning.
Different styles, different eras- different fits.
A 1980s jacket that is labelled '42' might have an intentionally oversized fit that doesn't look right by most standards.
A modern trendy '42' might be ridiculously tight.
You get the idea.

Therefore - in buying vintage clothes online it is essential that you know the actual measurements of your best fitting jackets - don't trust generic sizes.

VintageEveryday · Nov 14, 2016

how do people determine the age of a sport coat just by looking by the tweed?

Patrick Hall · Nov 28, 2016

Dating a coat would be hard to do just based on the look of a tweed, most of the time. Modern donegals still look like donegals, same with the Harris variety. The exception to this are tweeds that are all but extinct, but that were very common through the 40's. Fancy patterns in the weave, like diamonds, tend to suggest an older date, though these fancy tweeds did make a comeback in the sixties.

Worsted fabrics are easier. Generally, pre-fifties worsteds are heartier, have a rougher hand, and much more surface interest: subtle, complex stripes and checks. That being said, there are plenty of Golden Era suits in simple chalk stripes.

Better to take the fabric along with all the other available evidence - cut, button stance, shoulder expression, lining and lining material, etc. That is, unless you know something VERY specific about a particular fabric, and when it was in vogue.

VintageEveryday · Nov 28, 2016

Patrick Hall said:
Dating a coat would be hard to do just based on the look of a tweed, most of the time. Modern donegals still look like donegals, same with the Harris variety. The exception to this are tweeds that are all but extinct, but that were very common through the 40's. Fancy patterns in the weave, like diamonds, tend to suggest an older date, though these fancy tweeds did make a comeback in the sixties.

Worsted fabrics are easier. Generally, pre-fifties worsteds are heartier, have a rougher hand, and much more surface interest: subtle, complex stripes and checks. That being said, there are plenty of Golden Era suits in simple chalk stripes.

Better to take the fabric along with all the other available evidence - cut, button stance, shoulder expression, lining and lining material, etc. That is, unless you know something VERY specific about a particular fabric, and when it was in vogue.

That's what I tend to do. I guess I've been doing it without realizing. My main way to tell if something is true vintage is the thickness of the tweed, but mainly the smell. If it smells the way you'd expect old wool to smell, chances are it's over 60 years old. I know this sounds silly, but....I dunno. I know it when I smell it

Michael A · Dec 10, 2016

Does this count as a sport coat?

P1220312 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
It's unlined save the yoke and completely unstructured.

P1220316 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Made by Merrill Woolens. I believe I read somewhere on the net that they went out of business in 1958.

P1220307 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
But I'm unsure of the veracity of that info. I don't have any idea when this would be from. Can anyone offer suggestions?

P1220310 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Thanks,
Michael

FedOregon · Jan 19, 2017

Works for me, Michael!

I picked up this cashmere/lambs wool blend sport coat at the local Goodwill store. I need to lose 15-20 pounds but it's the best I could find for a funeral I was attending the next day.

VintageEveryday · Jan 19, 2017

FedOregon said:
Works for me, Michael!

I picked up this cashmere/lambs wool blend sport coat at the local Goodwill store. I need to lose 15-20 pounds but it's the best I could find for a funeral I was attending the next day.

rockin' the breaking bad look! That's a nice sport coat! Love the shoulder structure. How old would you say it is? 70s?

Johnny J · Jan 29, 2017

I found this coat about a year ago.

Fading Fast · Jan 29, 2017

JohnnyJ - that is an outstanding sport coat.

The throat latch, patch pockets, leather buttons, beautiful heavy texture are all wonderful. The two buttons on the cuff makes me wonder if the lapel would be a 3/2 roll which means the top button really "rolls" under the lapel and isn't meant to be buttoned - it's a long shot that it is, so what you've done by buttoning it is almost certainly correct.

Also, do you have any info from the label - make, material, etc.?

Again, beautiful jacket - enjoy

Johnny J · Jan 29, 2017

Thanks for the compliments. There is no maker label but there is a union label:

Johnny J · Jan 29, 2017

No other labels but it has 3 inside pockets and a small pen pocket.

RomanImperator · Jan 29, 2017

Wow very cool. I have a similar one but yours is truly vintage. That is the 1939 union tag and dates it between 1939 and 1948 if I read the guide correctly.

Michael A · Jan 29, 2017

Johnny J said:
I found this coat about a year ago.

That is a beauty of a jacket. Wow. Love that heavy twill.

Michael

Johnny J · Jan 30, 2017

I had a hard time finding a similar blue leather button since the bottom front button was missing but I finally found one; just need to sew it on.

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