Skinny lapels - ties - collars?

FedoraFan112390 · Nov 15, 2016

I've noticed that in the 30s and 1940s, double breasted suits with wide lapels, dress shirts with large collars, and larger ties were the norm. I'm curious as to around what year the skinny tie/lapel look came into popularity?

Hal · Nov 15, 2016

FedoraFan112390 said:
I've noticed that in the 30s and 1940s, double breasted suits with wide lapels, dress shirts with large collars, and larger ties were the norm. I'm curious as to around what year the skinny tie/lapel look came into popularity?

I think there was a progressive narrowing from the early to mid 1950s to the early to mid 1960s. Then the "cultural revolution" of the baby-boom-hippie-student-radical generation swept all before it. Width came back in the 1970s (a stylistic period with many similarities to the 1940s?) and decreased again around the turn of the 21st century.
Those are my impressions. If they are wrong, will someone please correct them?

Tommy-VF51 · Nov 15, 2016

Not sure whether this really belongs in the Outerwear thread...

The gradual narrowing of lapels and ties was partly due to the rising influence of the Ivy League look- although this in it's self was only a slightly narrower cut at first anyway. It was also very much a fashion statement, moving away from the bigger cuts that had defined the 20s/ 30s/ 40s much of the time. It could also be seen in the tapering of the trousers as well, with hems losing 2-3".

Edward · Nov 15, 2016

Hal said:
I think there was a progressive narrowing from the early to mid 1950s to the early to mid 1960s. Then the "cultural revolution" of the baby-boom-hippie-student-radical generation swept all before it. Width came back in the 1970s (a stylistic period with many similarities to the 1940s?) and decreased again around the turn of the 21st century.
Those are my impressions. If they are wrong, will someone please correct them?

Sounds about right to me. I think thinner lapels cam round in fashion in the US around 54/55, just abouyt in line with Elvis' rise to fame, and into the UK by 56. They stay narrowish until the late sixties, then widen again. I first noticed really narrow lapels coming back in fashion for the first time sicne the eighties (and in a much more extreme way, too) in recent years - around 2007. While I often tend to favour the earlier, wider styles, I have a fondness for the 'clean' look of the original fifties lapels, pre-army Elvis style. The extremes I've seen it taken to in fashion suits in recet years I don't care for. I keep thinking we've gotten to the point where lapels and trousers are as narrow and low as they can go, but the pendulum still hasn'tg swung bsck the other way to any noticeable degree. I am seeing more return to a 'classic' 3" lapel in the more traditional places, though, so hopefully that's a good sign.

Feraud · Nov 15, 2016

I moved the thread to the more appropriate Suits forum.

emigran · Nov 15, 2016

Elvis tp BiIly Joel

Feraud · Nov 15, 2016

There is some good reading available here-
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...f-20th-century-men’s-fashions-neckwear.52763/

Hal · Nov 16, 2016

Edward said:
...I think thinner lapels cam round in fashion in the US around 54/55, just about in line with Elvis' rise to fame, and into the UK by 56...

Tommy-VF51 said:
The gradual narrowing of lapels and ties was partly due to the rising influence of the Ivy League look...It could also be seen in the tapering of the trousers as well, with hems losing 2-3".

Surely these are parallel if not identical contemporaneous trends? To me the most attractive menswear aesthetic comes from this period rather than from the 1940s, although I know that this is heresy in some FL circles!

PeterGunnLives · Nov 16, 2016

I like the sleek, jet-age, Rat-Pack era look myself, too.

Edward · Nov 17, 2016

It's a look I think can be great, though it's not always the most flattering on those of us who are carrying a bit more weight. I am particularly fond of particularly the more American, *early* version of the look, when trousers were pegged, but still had plenty of flap around the seat. Elvis in Tupelo style. I'll happily wear that one days I'm not doing an earlier look!

Claudio · Nov 30, 2016

The smaller lapel was in vogue in the earlier part of the 1920's, from where the 1960's look got some of it's inspirations. The thinner lapel was a result of smaller, less packed shoulders on the jacket, and a trimmer cut; the thinner tie followed suit accordingly and of course the trim trousers. They are all tied in together. These are just rough examples but one can see the similarities of the lapels, tie proportions

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