Holy Grail of B-3s, the 1937 undyed sheepskin contract!

These two photos fill in the blanks in the evolution of the B-3 Jacket as they relate to the version Andrew has recently purchased.

Lt. Col. Henry "Hap" Arnold is wearing the first-generation B-3, which clearly resembles Leslie Irvin's jacket design for the RAF. This B-3 model has very little in common with the B-3's more commonly known and which formed the primary cold-weather jacket of the AAF in WWII. Noteworthy details include: the raw, untreated sheepskin, absence of a front pocket and the leather tabs for attaching officer rank, the obvious half-belt at the front bottom, zippers in the forearm (just visible), bellows shoulders (just visible), single-strap adjustment on collar, and small-size collar.

The first-model B-3 is so rare that I know of none in existence, and I've not handled even a shred of the tattered remains of one, but the second-model B-3, while mega-rare, is one I have seen and handled. The second photo comes from C. G. Sweeting's "Combat Flying Clothing" 1988 edition, p. 27. The two B-3's at left are second models, while the rightmost B-3 reflects production changes developed in 1938 and would be a fourth-model B-3. Andrew's B-3 configuration, along with depot-made B-3's also in raw, untreated sheepskin, reflect the third-model B-3 design that could be placed in the middle of this photo to reflect the evolution from left to right.

The second-model B-3 incorporated a gusseted armpit (visible here), a single pocket on the right front and two narrow-width adjustment straps on the bottom hem instead of the half-belt; the bellows at shoulders and zippered forearms were retained (the split-cuff with zipper is just visible at the cuff's end on the right arm of Capt. Irvine - middle). The fourth-model B-3 in best known for its use of Korsseal Waterproofing that was employed until end of production and incorporates several of the features introduced on the third model.

C. G. Sweeting's "Combat Flying Clothing" and it's companion volume on flying equipment remain valuable reference sources of both data and photos that I often return to and continue to endorse.

Now let's see who turns up some B-3's from 1934-35!

Thanks Charles for your insights. Sweeting's book is a must for serious WW2 flight jacket collectors. I would really appreciate it you can track down the contract info for this 1937 and the maker.

There are several other no name maker contracts. Perhaps you can fill in the gaps here from your archival research:-

36-1154
AC17757
AC17812
42-12690
42-12691
42-12695
42-18651
42-18654 (Bernstein?)
42-21700
43-13609 (Bernstein?)
43-13619

aswatland said:

Thanks Charles for your insights. Sweeting's book is a must for serious WW2 flight jacket collectors. I would really appreciate it you can track down the contract info for this 1937 and the maker.

There are several other no name maker contracts. Perhaps you can fill in the gaps here from your archival research:-

36-1154
AC17757
AC17812
42-12690
42-12691
42-12695
42-18651
42-18654 (Bernstein?)
42-21700
43-13609 (Bernstein?)
43-13619

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Amazing! wow!

aswatland said:

Thanks Charles for your insights. Sweeting's book is a must for serious WW2 flight jacket collectors. I would really appreciate it you can track down the contract info for this 1937 and the maker.

There are several other no name maker contracts. Perhaps you can fill in the gaps here from your archival research:-

36-1154
AC17757
AC17812
42-12690
42-12691
42-12695
42-18651
42-18654 (Bernstein?)
42-21700
43-13609 (Bernstein?)
43-13619

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I'll get around to digging the contract data sooner or later for this B-3, if for no there reason that it is now on my mind.

I do have all the contracts on the above list, as well as many others not listed, not all of which are no-name contracts. I'd like to think I have every contract award for every piece of AC flying clothing made in the '30's - 40's. The problem with contract numbers from awards is that we never know if the contract was cancelled (unless further documents support or refute it). By virtue of their absence on the list, should I assume you have all those no-name contracts in the 1775_ series?

If you ever see Werber B-3's of 35-1545-P, get set for a big surprise beyond the early design. There's a B&W pic on p. 26 of Sweeting of what I do believe is one, but color is what you need to see. I've seen two of these (and A-3 Trousers) and read about them in documents.

Thank you Charles. I'm looking forward to seeing this contract information.

Nice find, Andrew. I'm intrigued as to why these were left 'raw', then the wartime jackets finished in brown. If I'd been invited to guess as to which was which, I'd have assumed the 'raw' ones were designed to save production time during an active conflict. Obviously not the case here. Was the idea to protect the integrity of the jacket more by finishing it, or to keep it cleaner looking, and thus "smarter" when worn for its intended purpose?

This is an interesting question Edward as earlier jackets, such a the B-1, B-2 and British Irvin did not use naturally finished leather. Keeping the skin natural may have reduced production costs, but I'm sure Charles has the answer.

Pure speculation, but I'll guess that the Great Depression caused a lot more cost-saving measures in the U.S. military than wartime exigency. If the brown finish began to appear in 1939 (as the photo of the B-17 crew would seem to indicate) that would tie in well with the rearmament efforts just before the war.

The first B-3 contract with the polyacrylate dye and lacquer finish was from the 1938 fiscal year, 38-3640-P (Phillip's Tanning & Co).

Here are some pics of a jacket from the Phillip's Tanning contract which used to be in my collection. It is the third version of the B-3 and was the version used until late 1941.

aswatland said:

This is an interesting question Edward as earlier jackets, such a the B-1, B-2 and British Irvin did not use naturally finished leather. Keeping the skin natural may have reduced production costs, but I'm sure Charles has the answer.

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The answer is fairly simple: The one-piece and two-piece suits employed prior to the B-3 that were made of leather with any type of lining, especially sheepskin linings, were also quite heavy and bulky, and when moisture collected on them and froze, they became all the more stiff, uncomfortable, and restrictive in movement. Following the types of garments trappers and Eskimos and the like used, it was decided that not treating or covering sheepskin in an outer layer of any kind was the best solution, which did indeed make the then-new B-3/A-3 suit a vast improvement over what had been used up until that time.

After the third-pattern B-3/A-3 (this was the last made of raw sheepskin), it was determined that the raw exterior soiled extensively and quickly, and it didn't repel moisture, grease, oil, etc. at all. The Koresseal coating was applied with a lacquer top coat on the fourth pattern in 1938 and this succeeded in providing what was desired, though at some loss of comfort and ease in movement, albeit sacrifices deemed acceptable at the time.

I enjoy wearing repro B-3's by Eastman and Buzz Rickson's and I can attest readily that those coated in the lacquer are less flexible than the raw B-3's, which is one reason my ELC SFAD B-3 in raw sheepskin is my fave B-3: this is the most comfy B-3 that maintains full authenticity I have ever worn or tried on.

Andrew, that Phillip's Tanning B-3 is simply magnificent in every way! It seems to be on par with my two HLB B-3's and I wish I had known you were selling at the time. One correction, though, is that it's a fourth-generation B-3, coming just after the new B-3 score you made and the depot-made raw B-3's of the same era.

Thanks for such comprehensive answer Charles. I knew you would know. I have just looked in Combat Flying Clothing and notice Sweeting discusses the issues arising from untreated sheepskin and the introduction of the Korsseal Waterproofing treatment on pages 26-7.

I called the Phillips Tanning B-3 third pattern because that is how it is referred to in Full Gear.

Don't forget to dig out the contract info you promised. I am most keen to see who these no name makers were.

It should be noted that the AC did experiment with dyeing the raw B-3/A-3 suits in brown as a more serviceable color in 1935; these were dyed by the tannery and both the wool and skin were dyed; there was no sealant applied, though, so the intention of the dye was purely cosmetic. These are extraordinarily rare suits and I have been fortunate to see jackets and trousers so produced by Werber, which is likely the only contractor that produced these in a short production run.

aswatland said:

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fantastic jacket, this model is on my list Purchasing / Dreams
Congratulation on winning jacket mr Andrew

aswatland said:

Thank you Charles for you helpful comments. Do have access to the contract paperwork for this contract to confirm the size of the contract and the maker? I bought this jacket as a collectable, not as a wearable jacket!

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Nice this is in such good condition but you say for a collection rather than a wearer. I just wondered if you will ever wear to an event even if it is so rare and nice condition.
Before babies and houses intervened I had a fair collection of the usual Irvins, A2s, B3s and G1s with lots of little items related. When I had something nice and usable I would wear it to military events and vintage shows, a rare thing in the 1980s and always enjoyed the comments and general conversation that resulted. Sometimes this gave me a few leads to other purchases at the show or about a dealer known to specialise in stuff I liked.
Even though I am more into the history of when and where wartime items were used it is always nice to see something not seen before.
Cheers, J

Hi Rocketeer. This ultra rare jacket is currently on a mannequin. Although the skin appear strong I do not want to risk wearing it an blowing out the shoulders for example.

Charles, don't forget to post the B-3 contract information. I would love to know who made this B-3.

aswatland said:

Hi Rocketeer. This ultra rare jacket is currently on a mannequin. Although the skin appear strong I do not want to risk wearing it an blowing out the shoulders for example.

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Shame, but a fair comment Exactly the reasons I now have no vintage era sheepskins. My ANJ4 started to go at the shoulder, once that 'white' began to show as a crack in the lacquer it was time to move it on, same with my B3s.
One thing we all did was have a meet up in our gear and try everyones items on for size etc. Now once it's on it doesn't come off.
I will always remember, around 25 years ago I let a star struck little boy of around 10 wear my A2 for a short while as I chatted with his dad. It put the lad on a quest for an original and that grew into a collection as he got older. A bit better than booze and drugs as a hobby these days but as he grew older he still had his collection but went on to scooters and girls. Just a shame he could not have picked old bikes rather than old scooters.

I might wear it for some photos at Duxford, but the weather is usually too warm when I'm at their summer air shows.

aswatland said:

I might wear it for some photos at Duxford, but the weather is usually too warm when I'm at their summer air shows.

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Haha Wimp
I bought my Eastman B3 on a hot day in June when they used to had the unofficial cold war jets as the main feature(My favourite show). I'm sure Gary will look after it for you.
Do you know if they still have a show specialising in all the MIGs, Sabre's and Shooting Stars etc? I've not been for around 15 years.

They have fewer an fewer jets there now, especially with the new CAA rules and regulations which came in after Shoreham. Eastman only go to Legends these days. The May and September air shows usually cover a wider period than Legends.

Amazing piece!