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Toppers Unite

Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
The Spoorenberg factory was founded in Eindhoven the Netherlands in 1820, but at the time it was in fact a tannery called In De Lederen Broek (In the leather pants). As the silk hat industry was booming in England and France the transition was made to produce hats and from 1830 onwards silk top hats. The factory retained the name however right untill WW2. Through merger the company had two locations, one on the Demer and one on Stratumseind, which used the name Millwater hatfactory. After the war the factory in Eindhoven was rebuilt and reopened in 1948 called N.V. Jan Spoorenberg Zijdenhoedenfabriek. Jan Spoorenberg (seen in the group photos below standing third from the left) was not a hatmaker himself but a businessman and tireless promoter of his hats. In this youtube movie (that has been posted here before) you can seen him showing the factory to the mayor of Eindhoven. The story goed that both JF Kennedy and Winston Churchill wore top hats by Spoorenberg.


In a still I took from this movie (second photo) you can just see the brand name "Burton" in the presented top hat. The name was chosen for no other reason than that it sounded classy enough to sell their hats. The man in the red silk top hat which the movie opens with is Mark Spoorenberg, Jan Spoorenbergs son, who took over the factory in the late sixties. Because of the decline in formal clothing the sales were not enough to keep the factory going however and it closed down in 1973 (not 1975 as mentioned in the post above).
Making a jump in time: Mark Spoorenberg sold the inventory of the factory in the mid-seventies to Habig, but not all of it. He kept enough of the tools and supply of the silk to be able to keep producing hats and he did so both on request and as a hobby. The crest on the brand name of that period shows you a tower (third photo), which is in fact a former watertower in Boskoop, which was bought by Mark Spoorenberg to live in. It was to be a millstone around his neck and some newsreports claim it caused his heartproblems of which he died in 2013. He bought the place for a symbolic amount on the condition that he would restore it to a certain level, because it was a listed monumental building. Failing to do so got him into all sorts of financial trouble, with ill effect on his health. He did however keep on making silk top hats right untill his death. Because there was so little left of the precious silk (produced by Hubert of St. Etienne and Roche of Lyon) he had kept from the inventory, the hats of the later period don't have a silk top brim; only the crowns are silk. Very interesting however is that Mark Spoorenberg stated in an interview right before he died that he had been able to source new silk for his hats from India, because he didn't like the melusine or viscose that was used as a replacement material. The producer he found didn't make longhaired silk pluche but was willing to adjust his machines in a special run.
There has been a suggestion that Ton Meeuwis and Mark Spoorenberg were the same person (I believe somewhere here on the lounge). They were not and Ton Meeuwis, (mentioned on page 10 of this thread) is in fact not a hatmaker at all. He was the owner of a company called Black Tie specialized in formal clothing. The company was helped founding by Jan Spoorenberg, who had of course an interest in promoting formal clothing, including the hats to go with it. The company still exists today and is located in Den Bosch (called Black Tie or Meeuwis Herenmode).
In the one but last picture you can see an employee of the factory holding one of the miniature hats they produced from leftovers as memento's for visitors. I posted one of these here before.
Silk top hats were used for formal occasions like weddings and funerals but are all but gone. Quite a lot of them are offered on Dutch auction sites these days and can be had for amounts between 20 and 30 euros in the smaller sizes (55, 56 and 57). Bigger sizes are more rare of course but do pop up now and again.


boskoop-1908.jpg burton screen 2.jpg burton-brand-18-4-2012-20-57-55.large.jpg eindhoveninbeeld (1).jpg eindhoveninbeeld.jpg eindhoveninbeeld spoorenberg.jpg jan spoorenberg zijdenhoeden.jpg jan spoorenberg.jpg
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
Great posts! That is very interesting that he found a source for Silk Plush. I wonder what happen to his workshop? I have also wondered what happened to the equipment at P. & C. Habig when they went out of business. From what I can remember their buy from Spoorenberg also included a stock of Silk Plush.
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,473
Location
Boston area
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Steve and Charlie, thanks. As stated before it is my pleasure. I hope to uncover a bit more about the Dutch hatting industry and history, but information is scarce. The workshop, tools and materials all went to Mark Spoorenbergs son. I'll have a look if I can find any more information on him. If I find anything I'll post it here of course.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
The Spoorenberg factory was founded in Eindhoven the Netherlands in 1820, but at the time it was in fact a tannery called In De Lederen Broek (In the leather pants). As the silk hat industry was booming in England and France the transition was made to produce hats and from 1830 onwards silk top hats. The factory retained the name however right untill WW2. Through merger the company had two locations, one on the Demer and one on Stratumseind, which used the name Millwater hatfactory. After the war the factory in Eindhoven was rebuilt and reopened in 1948 called N.V. Jan Spoorenberg Zijdenhoedenfabriek. Jan Spoorenberg (seen in the group photos below standing third from the left) was not a hatmaker himself but a businessman and tireless promoter of his hats. In this youtube movie (that has been posted here before) you can seen him showing the factory to the mayor of Eindhoven. The story goed that both JF Kennedy and Winston Churchill wore top hats by Spoorenberg.


In a still I took from this movie (second photo) you can just see the brand name "Burton" in the presented top hat. The name was chosen for no other reason than that it sounded classy enough to sell their hats. The man in the red silk top hat which the movie opens with is Mark Spoorenberg, Jan Spoorenbergs son, who took over the factory in the late sixties. Because of the decline in formal clothing the sales were not enough to keep the factory going however and it closed down in 1973 (not 1975 as mentioned in the post above).
Making a jump in time: Mark Spoorenberg sold the inventory of the factory in the mid-seventies to Habig, but not all of it. He kept enough of the tools and supply of the silk to be able to keep producing hats and he did so both on request and as a hobby. The crest on the brand name of that period shows you a tower (third photo), which is in fact a former watertower in Boskoop, which was bought by Mark Spoorenberg to live in. It was to be a millstone around his neck and some newsreports claim it caused his heartproblems of which he died in 2013. He bought the place for a symbolic amount on the condition that he would restore it to a certain level, because it was a listed monumental building. Failing to do so got him into all sorts of financial trouble, with ill effect on his health. He did however keep on making silk top hats right untill his death. Because there was so little left of the precious silk (produced by Hubert of St. Etienne and Roche of Lyon) he had kept from the inventory, the hats of the later period don't have a silk top brim; only the crowns are silk. Very interesting however is that Mark Spoorenberg stated in an interview right before he died that he had been able to source new silk for his hats from India, because he didn't like the melusine or viscose that was used as a replacement material. The producer he found didn't make longhaired silk pluche but was willing to adjust his machines in a special run.
There has been a suggestion that Ton Meeuwis and Mark Spoorenberg were the same person (I believe somewhere here on the lounge). They were not and Ton Meeuwis, (mentioned on page 10 of this thread) is in fact not a hatmaker at all. He was the owner of a company called Black Tie specialized in formal clothing. The company was helped founding by Jan Spoorenberg, who had of course an interest in promoting formal clothing, including the hats to go with it. The company still exists today and is located in Den Bosch (called Black Tie or Meeuwis Herenmode).
In the one but last picture you can see an employee of the factory holding one of the miniature hats they produced from leftovers as memento's for visitors. I posted one of these here before.
Silk top hats were used for formal occasions like weddings and funerals but are all but gone. Quite a lot of them are offered on Dutch auction sites these days and can be had for amounts between 20 and 30 euros in the smaller sizes (55, 56 and 57). Bigger sizes are more rare of course but do pop up now and again.


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Wow, what a great post. I'm going to have to spend some time studying it in detail. Thanks for this.
 

sebastian czentner

One of the Regulars
Messages
193
Location
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
There's a fact about top hats in Argentina, The oldest regiment of Argentine army still wears blue top hats. The history is That in 1806 Hereford commanded an Expeditionary force to rio de la plata shore, just this expeditionary force landed near the city of buenos Aires The Viceroy Fled to Cordoba, but was intercepted by the english force. The defence of buenos aires rested on his citizens, that nearly fought for 45 days. On the final day When Hereford surrender to Saavedra. The argentine milicia took by storm a Battleship that was bombing the city in the shore the tide changed and the ship remained a ground. In the cellar of the ship was found many merchandise that the english thought to sell when the city surrender. Between was those top hats, that was distributed to the most prominent militia that fought for Buenos Aires, and that was formed by Irish immigrants, henceforth named los patricios. The english tried to invade again the next year and were defeated again.
My next buy would be a Patrician top hat.
 

sebastian czentner

One of the Regulars
Messages
193
Location
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Some errata about my post above, the English commander Who surrendered in 1806 was Beresford not Hereford and wasn't before Saavedra, instead was Liniers. But the wearing of top hats started with the english invasion. Ive confused some dates, because my age, and sorry about how conjugate some verbs.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
I've been neglecting the toppers a wee bit. I have a few more in my collection I haven't posted before. Here's the first one. Doewes silk top hat, size 57. Brim 5 cm and crown 13cm high. Doewes was a menswear shop in Groningen, Holland. They did not make their own hats. The hat could have been made by Spoorenberg, but there were other manufacturers of silk top hats in Holland at the time. Last picture is of their shop in the Herestraat in Groningen. Some of the toppers I have seen have this white sweatband. My guess it that this was done to keep to the strict black and white scheme of black tie or white tie events. Both the topside and underside of the brim of this one is done in cloth, Usually the topside of the brim is done in silkplush as well. Sometimes this was skipped to save on the expensive silk.


doewes_1.jpg
doewes_2.jpg
doewes_3.jpg
doewes_5.jpg
doewes_4.jpg
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,112
Location
Verona - Italia
I've been neglecting the toppers a wee bit. I have a few more in my collection I haven't posted before. Here's the first one. Doewes silk top hat, size 57. Brim 5 cm and crown 13cm high. Doewes was a menswear shop in Groningen, Holland. They did not make their own hats. The hat could have been made by Spoorenberg, but there were other manufacturers of silk top hats in Holland at the time. Last picture is of their shop in the Herestraat in Groningen. Some of the toppers I have seen have this white sweatband. My guess it that this was done to keep to the strict black and white scheme of black tie or white tie events. Both the topside and underside of the brim of this one is done in cloth, Usually the topside of the brim is done in silkplush as well. Sometimes this was skipped to save on the expensive silk.


doewes_1-jpg.81931
Molto, molto e ancora molto bello!
Perfect proportions for my taste ;)
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Here is the second topper for today. Drickson&Co. Size 57. Brim at 4,4cm and crown at 13,5 cm. This one an older hat: it was bought by the great grandfather of the seller (the name inside the hat). There's a grosgrain sweatband inside the hat, which is certainly not original (comfortable though). It came with its original box. Sold by N. de Haan in Utrecht, Holland, which was around since at least 1926. This one does have the silk plush at the topside of the brim. The faint outline of where the plush was joined up can be seen in the third shot.

drickson_2.jpg
drickson_1.jpg
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drickson_4.jpg
drickson_5.jpg
drickson_8.jpg
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drickson_7.jpg
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Here is the second topper for today. Drickson&Co. Size 57. Brim at 4,4cm and crown at 13,5 cm. This one an older hat: it was bought by the great grandfather of the seller (the name inside the hat). There's a grosgrain sweatband inside the hat, which is certainly not original (comfortable though). It came with its original box. Sold by N. de Haan in Utrecht, Holland, which was around since at least 1926. This one does have the silk plush at the topside of the brim. The faint outline of where the plush was joined up can be seen in the third shot.

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These two top hats are a treat to see indeed.
 

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