Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

TheDane · May 19, 2017

Frunobulax said:
I had a conversation with one of the hatters at Peters Brothers in Ft. Worth a couple of years ago, and he stated that, in reblocking an Open Road or a Stratoliner (or constructing a clone), the 52 was used for both models.

I would say, that #52 is very (and also too) flat and full for the Open Road and Stratoliner. In my mind, a semi-domed block like #51 would be more in line with the original models. I would prefer a #51, if they were my hats, but maybe it's just me

scottyrocks · Mar 17, 2018

Michael R. said:
TJ , I just measured my 7 3/8 #52 Block , its 23 5/8" . Best wishes on the project .

I just measured my 7 3/8 52 block. It is 23 1/4" around at the base. Based on the info supplied here it seems to be in the right place for my 23" 7 3/8 head.

Very useful thread. Thanks for the info!

T Jones · Mar 18, 2018

scottyrocks said:
I just measured my 7 3/8 52 block. It is 23 1/4" around at the base. Based on the info supplied here it seems to be in the right place for my 23" 7/8 head.

Very useful thread. Thanks for the info!

Hmm... I have a #51 7 1/4 block that also measures 23 1/4 around the base. It has 7 1/4 stamped right on the bottom. This is why I go by measurement rather than what size is stamped on the block, per Art Fawcett's recommendation.

Are you sure you're not 22 7/8? If you measure 23 7/8 the 23 1/4 will be too small.

scottyrocks · Mar 18, 2018

Jesus H, I typoed. I meant 7 3/8, not 7/8. smh

Above post edited for correction.

T Jones · Mar 19, 2018

scottyrocks said:
Jesus H, I typoed. I meant 7 3/8, not 7/8. smh

Above post edited for correction.

Damn cell phone typos! I hate when that happens!

If your head measures 23' you should be in business with the 23 1/4. My last two conversions that I sized up were done on a 23 1/4 block as well. Only I used a plastic hat shaper for those. I'm no fan of the plastic but it does have a nice open crown profile and I can get some nice straight sided creases out of it. I find it to be a good compromise between a #51 block and a #52 block. I get the tall straight sides of a #52 and the rounded top of a #51. I have both a #51 and a #52 but I like the results I'm getting from the straight sided dome hat shaper.

scottyrocks · Mar 19, 2018

I've been 'about to order' one of those for a while now. I just wasn't sure what size. Now I have a better idea.

T Jones · Mar 19, 2018

scottyrocks said:
I've been 'about to order' one of those for a while now. I just wasn't sure what size. Now I have a better idea.

They sport a great looking open crown profile but they also have their drawbacks. If you're blocking your own personal stuff on it every now and then they'll work out for you. The fact that they're plastic presents a problem of lasting durability, but they are cheap in price when compared to having one made or buying a vintage block. At under $35 you can more easily replace it if it gets broken. Also, the plastic flange on the bottom gets in the way when you're stretching and pulling felt over it. But, that's something you can figure out how to work around once you start working with it.

Mustang Mike's Hats · Mar 19, 2018

Great general rule of thumb ...A hat block is one size LARGER than the finished hat size.

Art Fawcett · Mar 21, 2018

Scotty, use your circumference and add 1/4" as a rule. So, if you are 23 1/8" ( normal 3/8) you need 23 3/8-1/2. You can go larger but will have to flange it down. Your 23 1/4 can work also if you flange it larger

scottyrocks · Mar 21, 2018

Art Fawcett said:
Scotty, use your circumference and add 1/4" as a rule. So, if you are 23 1/8" ( normal 3/8) you need 23 3/8-1/2. You can go larger but will have to flange it down. Your 23 1/4 can work also if you flange it larger

Thanks, Art. My head is 23" and my 52 block is 23 1/4" which seems perfect. As it is, though, I can not pull some of my hats all the way down over this block with the sweatbands still in them.

The straighter sided block I want to buy comes in 23 and 23 1/2". Since I primarily want to use it to re-shape crowns without taking hats apart apart, except for liner removal, I was thinking the 23 would be better since I can barely get my current 7 3/8 hats over my 23 1/4 block now.

Will a 23" block do anything to significantly negatively affect the way the hat blocks out?

Art Fawcett · Mar 21, 2018

It will give you more taper because you will have to flange it out 1/4 to fit the sweatband in. Try folding the sweatband inside out, then ease it over the 23 block. That will allow re blocks without removing the sweat. If the sweat is old, then it's toast with this method. Your 23 1/4 block is perfect for new builds.

scottyrocks · Mar 21, 2018

Art Fawcett said:
It will give you more taper because you will have to flange it out 1/4 to fit the sweatband in. Try folding the sweatband inside out, then ease it over the 23 block. That will allow re blocks without removing the sweat. If the sweat is old, then it's toast with this method. Your 23 1/4 block is perfect for new builds.

Great, thank you. Between you and TJones I now know what to buy!

Steinbockhase · Aug 21, 2018

Hello all,
I am just an amateur hat collector with some nice vintage fur felts and straws; mainly Stetson and Borsalino, but also many other famous brands. (styles = Fedora, Trilby, Pork-Pie, Homburg, Bowler, top-hat)
Until now my only "hat tools" were some styrofoam-heads (size 7/18, 57cm, my hat size!), a simple hat-stretcher and some hat-brushes.
I usually just work with steam to restore shape or re-shape crowns and creases by hand; while the hat is resting on a styrofoam head. Most of the time I am satisfied with the results.
Some hats however, have noticable wrinkles and crease-marks in the felt.
In order to get them clean and back into shape (sort of reblock), I just ordered these two hat blocks from HatBlocksPoland on Etsy.
I am not so ambitious to make the effort of dismantling the hat from sweatband and ribbon; so I bought the blocks in my head size, 7 1/8 or 57cm (hopefully most of my hats will fit over them snuggly with the sweatband remaining inside).
My idea is to restore the open-crown shape, clean and flatten the felt, before I re-shape again by hand. For this task I chose following hat block.

IMO: single dents, tear drops, diamond shapes, etc. are easily done by hand.
I have also hand-shaped Pork-Pies with fairly good results, but any unevenness is very obvious with this style. So in addtion I bought this unique looking fascinator block; with a long oval shape and slightly sloping curves, front and back.

Delivery will take atleast 3 weeks. I hope the sizing is correct.
Any further thoughts from the experts?
best regards
Georg

Frunobulax · Aug 21, 2018

Steinbockhase said:
Hello all,
I am just an amateur hat collector with some nice vintage fur felts and straws; mainly Stetson and Borsalino, but also many other famous brands. (styles = Fedora, Trilby, Pork-Pie, Homburg, Bowler, top-hat)
Until now my only "hat tools" were some styrofoam-heads (size 7/18, 57cm, my hat size!), a simple hat-stretcher and some hat-brushes.
I usually just work with steam to restore shape or re-shape crowns and creases by hand; while the hat is resting on a styrofoam head. Most of the time I am satisfied with the results.
Some hats however, have noticable wrinkles and crease-marks in the felt.
In order to get them clean and back into shape (sort of reblock), I just ordered these two hat blocks from HatBlocksPoland on Etsy.
I am not so ambitious to make the effort of dismantling the hat from sweatband and ribbon; so I bought the blocks in my head size, 7 1/8 or 57cm (hopefully most of my hats will fit over them snuggly with the sweatband remaining inside).
My idea is to restore the open-crown shape, clean and flatten the felt, before I re-shape again by hand. For this task I chose following hat block.

View attachment 132068

IMO: single dents, tear drops, diamond shapes, etc. are easily done by hand.
I have also hand-shaped Pork-Pies with fairly good results, but any unevenness is very obvious with this style. So in addtion I bought this unique looking fascinator block; with a long oval shape and slightly sloping curves, front and back.

View attachment 132069

Delivery will take atleast 3 weeks. I hope the sizing is correct.
Any further thoughts from the experts?
best regards
Georg

(Copy/pasted from other thread)

I'm not certain the measurements of the blocks you ordered; however, normally, blocks are made to shape and size fur felt hoods prior to the installation of the sweatband. Therefore, a 7 1/8 block would effectively measure out at 7 1/4. Installing the sweatband takes it down a size for the correct fit. So, don't be surprised if your block is too large to fit your hats with the sweatband in.

As for method, the block is a great idea, and I use them myself to work on hats. A good steam iron, some elbow grease, and some brushing will bring the hats back to open crown and reduce the ghost creases.

If you stretch the felt over the block, though, you can change the block profile of your hat. For this reason, I normally work mine over a smaller block, say a size 7 (I'm a 7 1/4). That way, you can move the hat crown around on the block, ironing it out without making it take the shape of the block.

Good luck, welcome to the Lounge, and let's see some pictures of your hats!

Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Steinbockhase · Aug 21, 2018

Frunobulax said:
(Copy/pasted from other thread)

I'm not certain the measurements of the blocks you ordered; however, normally, blocks are made to shape and size fur felt hoods prior to the installation of the sweatband. Therefore, a 7 1/8 block would effectively measure out at 7 1/4. Installing the sweatband takes it down a size for the correct fit. So, don't be surprised if your block is too large to fit your hats with the sweatband in.

As for method, the block is a great idea, and I use them myself to work on hats. A good steam iron, some elbow grease, and some brushing will bring the hats back to open crown and reduce the ghost creases.

If you stretch the felt over the block, though, you can change the block profile of your hat. For this reason, I normally work mine over a smaller block, say a size 7 (I'm a 7 1/4). That way, you can move the hat crown around on the block, ironing it out without making it take the shape of the block.

Good luck, welcome to the Lounge, and let's see some pictures of your hats!

Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Thank you very much for your input on sizing, Fruno.
I just checked the size information on the manufacturer's website.
The ordered open-crown block is described: "57cm = 22,5 inches"
According to a standard hat size chart it should be: US 7 1/8 = 57cm = 22 1/4 inches
So I guess it is 1/4 of an inch larger.
I contacted the seller and asked about this difference and if he can change it to a size 56cm aka 22,25 inch circumference.
Concerning the fascinator; this is a unique item without size alternatives, but I don't think that size will make such a big difference with this small block.

jlee562 · Aug 21, 2018

If you're not going to remove the sweatbands, you'll probably have an easier time with a block that is a size under your hat size. Which can also be used for a pork pie:
https://www.instagram.com/p/0YAUEKwS5t/

Steinbockhase · Aug 21, 2018

jlee562 said:
If you're not going to remove the sweatbands, you'll probably have an easier time with a block that is a size under your hat size. Which can also be used for a pork pie:
https://www.instagram.com/p/0YAUEKwS5t/

Thanks for your input. I wrote to the manufacturer, to ask if I can change the open-crown block to a size 56cm (shouldn't be a problem, because he offers this one made to measure).
The fascinator on the other hand is single item in size 57cm; take it or leave it.
Because it is only for the top part of the crown, I don't see much of a problem.

Also thanks for the link; the easy way to create a Pork Pie.
I did more or less the same using my head

The ordered fascinator has small slopes in the front and back of the ridge; giving the Pork Pie a more sophisticated look. With the matching metal tipper, the results should be smoother and more accurate than my hand-jobs

Hat and Rehat · Jun 22, 2019

jlee562 said:
If you're not going to remove the sweatbands, you'll probably have an easier time with a block that is a size under your hat size. Which can also be used for a pork pie:
https://www.instagram.com/p/0YAUEKwS5t/

I never knew a telescope could be so easy!

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

jlee562 · Jun 22, 2019

Hat and Rehat said:
I never knew a telescope could be so easy!

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

When you see it done, it seems so obvious! Here I was eyeballing my crown like a sucker.

Hat and Rehat · Jun 23, 2019

jlee562 said:
When you see it done, it seems so obvious! Here I was eyeballing my crown like a sucker.

Amen.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

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