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Can any modern-made clothes really pass for vintage?

nihil

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
Copenhagen
Being the owner of both Row and non-row modern tailoring, I say that Row certainly got it's merits. The quality is exquisite all the way through. I'm particular fond of my G&H blazer. The cut, fit and workmanship is simply excellent. Is it worth the hilarious price tag? Probably not. But then again, I don't see a Mercedes S-class being 4 time better than an average car, but it's still superior by quite a margin. But beware of modern tailors. It might not be current fashion they are making and selling, but it's still modern compared to what was made some 50-80 years ago.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
Messages
1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
the biggest thing besides the cut is the suits being fully canvassed which has a lot more work into it by hand and does last, look and drape better than modern cheaper fused suits (which are glued and mass produced). Some may try and say that the fused suits are getting better with gluing and all but the benchmark is still the old craftsman way of doing it and the difference really still very apparent

It's not just a matter on canvassing. Full canvass hackets can be had at price points much, much lower than Oxxford's. For example, there is a bespoke tailor in San Francisco's Chinatown who only charges $50 for the option. The thing with Oxxford is that the amount of handwork they put into their suits essentially unparalleled in modern times. Their construction methods are really more akin to 19th rather than 20th century techniques. Even Savile Row insiders consider virtually peerless when it comes to the quantity of handwork.

Yes, if you're able to go high end Oxxford ($$$$$), you'll be able to get a decent vintage looking cut. Personally, I don't see the appeal of many of their 'Super' fabrics, or the appeal of the cut of their "low" priced ($$$$) stuff. It's like RTW Savile Row stuff - it's just not as good as people make out.

Anything's possible with money.

bk

I think they deliver what the market demands. A lot of people are unwilling to try heavier fabrics and are too impatient for the custom process. I know when I ask tailors about 13 or 14 fabrics they are either (1) confussed or (2) really intrigued.
 

VintageEveryday

A-List Customer
Messages
383
Location
Woodside, NY
my biggest issue is that most of the reproduction clothing is more expensive than the actual vintage pieces themselves. If I'm going to pay $500 for a chester cordite repro of a CC41 suit, it had better take me back in time or something. I have to make do with slight alterations to more modern thrift store finds mixed with actual vintage items to achieve the "Holy crap! He looks like he stepped out of grandpa's photo album!" look. My biggest issue is that I want at least two or three pair of pants and several sport coats to change up my look a lot, and I can't do that if people charge $200 dollars for a pair of Hollywood Waist trousers and $500 for a belt-back sport coat.


I've had to get creative and make do: altering big-and-tall pants to get the long rise and wide leg of a '40s trouser, unpick the collars out of shirts and replace them with handmade spearpoint collars, adding buttonholes to low-gorge suit jackets to turn an '80s two-button sport coat into a '40s style three button....
My projects for this summer are to "Frankenstein" together two sport coats to make a '40s style Hollywood/Ricky Jacket, and use a suit jacket ( provided that it fits, has the right shoulder structure, lapel width and lapel gorge) and use the extra fabric from the pants to turn the plain back into a '30s belt back.
 

Stormy

A-List Customer
Messages
403
Location
460 Laverne Terrace
The notion of going 100% true vintage is not a possibility for me. However, I've had a bit of luck with the modern lookalike cuts. It's not easy, but on those rare occasions that I spot something, I scoop it up. I've also invested a little bit in some great tailoring.
 

shadowrider

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Italy
I have to make do with slight alterations to more modern thrift store finds mixed with actual vintage items to achieve the "Holy crap! He looks like he stepped out of grandpa's photo album!" look
Personally, while being a fan of vintage, that is a look I try hard to eschew, as it would make me feel like I'm wearing a costume or going to a theme party. A few vintage items or accessories added here and there, is more my thing, as I feel it adds that vintage flair to the whole outfit.
Same thing with southwestern/indian items, which I enjoy very much and often wear. But overdo it and you will look like you just stepped out of a John Ford movie or, even worse, a rodeo show. Not particularly desirable, especially here in Europe.
 

VintageEveryday

A-List Customer
Messages
383
Location
Woodside, NY
Personally, while being a fan of vintage, that is a look I try hard to eschew, as it would make me feel like I'm wearing a costume or going to a theme party. A few vintage items or accessories added here and there, is more my thing, as I feel it adds that vintage flair to the whole outfit.
Same thing with southwestern/indian items, which I enjoy very much and often wear. But overdo it and you will look like you just stepped out of a John Ford movie or, even worse, a rodeo show. Not particularly desirable, especially here in Europe.
Everyone has their own tastes. I just go for the "vintage casual" look. I definitely don't want to overdo it and dress older than I am
 

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