14 CLASSIC Overcoats & Topcoats! British Warm, Tweeds, Cashmere, West of England cloth, ++ $25 up!

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

CLASSIC VINTAGE (AND RECENT) OVERCOATS AND TOPCOATS!

I have several classic vintage (and recent!) overcoats and topcoats to pass on today--including cashmeres, tweeds, and West of England cloth, from makers such as Paul Stuart, Hickey Freeman, and Dunn & Co..

Plus, as a rare treat I have a WONDERFUL pair of vintage Scotch Mist overcoats that were formerly the property of Peter Van Heide, the heir to the Gummi bear fortune!

As always, I OFFER FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING IN THE USA; International shipping is welcome, at reduced cost!

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!

1) GORGEOUS Pure Cashmere Overcoat.

This is absolutely gorgeous! Although judging by the Union label in the interior pocket this is a relatively recent overcoat the quality of the cashmere from which it is cut harks back to when cashmere was a seriously luxurious fabric, rather than the rather thin stuff that is so common in mall stores today. It's thick, and luxurious, without being heavy--precisely the qualities that you want in cashmere, and that won it it well-deserved reputation as a luxury fabric.

Just as the cashmere harks back to old-school cashmere fabric so too does the classic cut of this coat; if you didn't know that this was a recent issue this could easily have passed for a garment made anytime since 1940. (This appearance is aided by the wonderfully vintage-inspired interior back label!) The coat is single-breasted with a three button closure, has two front flap pockets, two button cuffs in proper Ivy style, and a single centre vent. It is fully canvassed and fully lined. The two flapped front pockets are lined in sturdy cotton duck; the right-hand pocket features an interior ticket pocket, as is standard on good quality American overcoats.

This was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $95 > 75, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

This measures around a 38 to a 40 R or S.

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 42

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

2) STUNNING Classic Paul Stuart Topcoat in Herringbone Tweed!

A wonderfully Anglophilic coat, this is reminiscent of the long tweed overcoats that were popular among the British landed gentry in the 1930s and 1940s, and that can still be seen in the more expensive parts of the English countryside today.

Made for Paul Stuart (a company founded in 1938, that still describes itself as "haberdasher", and has the prices to match!) this beautiful tweed coat is a far cry from the rather shapeless tweed coats that are more common on the secondary market. Cut from a mid-weight wool cloth in a classic broad herringbone in cream and black, this lovely coat has a very slim and elegant silhouette, reminiscent of English "Country Life" line-drawn fashion illustrations before the War. The label is cut so that it is elegantly fluid, adding to its appeal. It also has a concealed placket.

It features two deep flapped lower pockets on the front lined in sturdy cotton duck; it also features a fully functional flapped ticket pocket that is also lined in duck. It has a single center vent, and four button cuffs. It also features an interior closure flap 3/4 of the way down the coat.

It is fully lined, and fully canvassed. It features a deep interior breast pocket on the right hand side, and a deep interior map pocket on the left hand side. Apart from a small rip in the interior lining at a crease in the shoulder this coat and a small snag rip on the lower part of the lining (both shown) is in excellent condition.

It was Union made in Canada.

The closest coat available from Paul Stuart today currently retails for $3,995, and is a blend of 84% wool, 8% polyester, 4% silk, 4% linen rather than being pure tweed. That's a very silly price.

This coat is thus an absolute bargain at just $145 > 115, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

Tagged 40 Tall, this measures:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 27 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 44 1/2

3) LOVELY Vintage Hand-Finished Cashmere Topcoat from Jackson & Moyer!

Founded in the 1920s on Chestnut Street in Philadelphia Jackson & Moyer was one of the great East Coast department stores. Housed in a wonderful Art Deco building, it specialized in beautifully classic clothing--such as this wonderful cashmere topcoat from Breton House Clothes.

Dating from the 1960s--with the appropriate Union label included!--this wonderful cashmere topcoat shows no sign of wear at all; it was likely worn very sparingly, and carefully looked after when not in use. As you'd expect from vintage cashmere the fabric of this coat is VERY soft and luxurious--a far cry from most contemporary cashmere coats. It is cut as a classic single-breasted coat with a three button front; as you'd expect from a 1960s coat the lapel curves so that it presents as a 3/2 front.

The coat is undarted, and features two deep flapped front pockets that are lined with cotton duck. The placket, lapels, and pockets all feature hand-done pick stitching; the collar is also hand-finished. The shoulders are very natural and unstructured, and the sleeves feature two-button cuffs as you'd expect from an Ivy Style coat. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined, and features a single center vent. It was Union made in the USA, and (apart from some minor rumpling at the hem from storage, that will be cured by its first dry clean or steam) it is in excellent condition.

Asking just $85, OR OFFER, boxed and shipped in the USA.

'Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

4) Hickey-Freeman "Glen Spray" Tweed Topcoat

In 1899 Jacob Freeman and Jeremiah Hickey raised $40,000 to open a tailoring business in Rochester, New York. Their first plant opened in 1912, with the motto "Keep the Quality Up"--a motto that Hickey-Freeman had gilded onto their main entrance-way to remind everyone of their primary aim.

Unlike many Victorian clothing enterprises with a focus on quality Hickey-Freeman is still going strong today--and is still maintaining their focus on very high quality classic garments.

As well as being known for its classic high-quality American clothing Hickey-Freeman is also known for several iconic garments. Perhaps the best known of these is the Flight Coat--a topcoat cut from gabardine with set-in sleeves that was marketed to business travellers in the 1960s, when being part of the "Jet Set" was something to aspire to. Another of the H-F classic items was its line of "Glen Spray" tweed topcoats--such as this beautiful item.

Hickey-Freeman established the "Glen Spray" line of topcoats in 1923, to capitalize on the Anglophilia and wealth of the Roaring '20s--as well as the need of the men (for then they were all men...) of the Ivy League to have suitable Fall and Winter coats that were both stylish and practical.

As the name suggests this line of coats were cut from Scottish tweeds and were intended to be water resistant, able to hold their own in light showers of the sort that H-F's clientele fondly believed to be typical of the Scottish Highlands. This coat is a wonderful original example.

Likely dating from the late 1960s this carries the classic (and highly detailed!) "Glen Spray" label, set into the center back shoulders. Cut--as was traditional--from Scottish tweed that was then treated to be showerproof, this is a classic black and dark bark brown small herringbone pattern with a colourway that is rarely seen after the 1960s. The coat is a single-breasted coat with offset buttoning so that the front forms a natural windflap. It is half-lined, fully canvassed, and features a single center vent. It has the traditional two buttons cuffs of an Ivy Style garment and has lovely narrow mid-century lapels. The interior features two pockets--one set into the seam and accessed vertically, one a more common deep interior pocket with a horizontal opening.

This coat was, of course, Union made in the USA and is in absolutely excellent condition, except for some minor age discoloration to the main label.

Asking just $85 > 65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 24
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 43 1/2

5) The English Shop of Princeton.

Classic 6/2 double-breasted overcoat in miniature herringbone tweed!

Founded in 1951 (and closed in 1996) by Eric P. Mihan and originally located at 5 Palmer Square, The English Shop was one of what is now considered the Big Five Princeton clothiers; the others being Langrock, Harry Ballot, Landau, and the Princeton Clothing Co.. Adverts from the 1950s and 1960s proudly proclaim that it carries Harris Tweed jackets, flannel blazers, and worsted suits, the majority of which were cut in the distinctive Ivy League 3/2 sack style.

This double-breasted coat is a lovely example of their wares. Cut from a beautifully versatile miniature herringbone cloth in charcoal grey this features a classic 6/2 front (six buttons in front, with two used to close the coat) and--as is proper for double-breasted coats--peak lapels. It is darted--again, proper for double-breasted coats to ensure an elegant silhouette--and has two deep flapped front pockets which are lined in cotton duck. It features four-button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. The interior features two horizontal breast pockets and a deep side map pocket.

Union made in Canada--likely in the Anglophilia late 1980s--this is in absolutely excellent condition. It's a bargain at just $95 > 75, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 48

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

6) BREED RESCUE! Polo-esque coat. JUST $25!

Taking a cue from rescue programs that focus on rescuing dogs and cats of certain breeds, I'll occasionally post clothing that has some flaws, but which is sufficiently iconic or unusual that it's worth saving despite them.

The first garment to be rescued in this way is this lovely Polo-coat inspired topcoat from Hart, Shaffner and Marx's "Gold Trumpeter" line.

A beautiful, classic coat in camel-coloured wool with a lovely hand and drape, this features two large, deep, flapped patch pockets on the front, a three button front with an insouciant lapel roll bringing it to a classic 3/2 lapel, and fixed turn-back cuffs accented with buttons. This is beautifully constructed; it features lapped seams down the sleeves and across the shoulders and a single hook vent. It is fully lined, and was, of course, made in the USA.

Inspired by the classic American Polo coat, this would be perfect for informal evening wear and country wear at the weekends!

It is, however, a "breed rescue" garment, and, unfortunately, it does have some mothing throughout. This is no longer active--and a dry clean would ensure this--and it hasn't affected the coat in any blatant way, so this is still a perfectly seviceable causal weekend item. (And, in any case, coats such as this were frequently work in a very disheveled state by the WASPs who initiated their use and the British upper classes who adopted them!) Given this, however, this lovely coat is just $25, boxed and shipped in the USA!

Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26
Shoulder: 19
Length: 47 1/2

7) MADE IN ENGLAND! Charcoal Grey "British Warm" Overcoat.

The "British Warm" was made famous through its adoption by British Army officers in the First World War; this fame was then solidified by Winston Churchill's frequent use of this garment during the Second World War. It was subsequently widely adopted by serving and former British officers, including many members of the Royal family. (A rather young Prince Charles is shown here wearing his!)

The term "British Warm" was originally coined by the Crombie as a tradename for its coats cut for Army officers; it later became adopted as the generic name for this style of coat, simply as it was accurate--these coats are British, and warm!

British warm coats--like this one--are double-breasted and feature peak lapels; a measure of formality that has led them to be the only official overcoat of the British Army today. This particular example was (of course!) Made in England for the traditional store Wallach's. It is cut from lovely warm and soft merino wool, and features--as it shown--two deep flapped pockets on the front and a 6/2 front button configuration. It also has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are traditional leather-covered and metal-shanked football buttons. The coat features the traditional epaulettes, true to its military heritage. It is fully lined and half-canvassed, and has a single center vent.

While it is a 6/2 coat, this only ever featured five buttons on the front; there is no missing button!

It is in excellent condition, and a bargain at just $79, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 42 1/2

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

8) STUNNING Paul Stuart Double-Breasted Overcoat with Peak Lapels.

This is absolutely gorgeous! Union made in Canada for Paul Stuart, this beautiful, flowing overcoat is made from mid-weight birdseye olive twill tweed.

Cut as a double-breasted overcoat this has a classic 6/2 front button configuration. It is subtly darted to give it an exceptionally elegant silhouette, and has wonderful peak lapels, as befits a double-breasted coat. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has three button cuffs and wonderfully natural shoulders. It features a deep interior breast pocket and a wide, deep, interior map pocket. It has a single center vent, and its original chain metal locker loop.

It is in absolutely excellent condition.

The original retail on this garment was likely in excess of $2,500--which, frankly, is simply silly. This is MUCH better priced at just $125 > 95, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA!

Tagged 39L, this measures:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 26 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 48

9) OLD-SCHOOL Jos A. Banks Tweed Herringbone topcoat

NOT from the current iteration of Jos. A. Banks, this coat was made in the USA for the old-style Banks, whose red labels mark its clothing as comparable to that of Brooks Brothers.

Cut from a miniature grey herringbone tweed cloth, this lovely coat is slightly more formal than the typical topcoat, as shown both by the fineness of the herringbone weave and the fact that unlike most single-breasted coats this has a concealed placket. This is half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. It has cuffless buttons and a deep interior breast pocket.

Union made in the USA. Apart from some minor age foxing in the lining at the hem, as shown, this is in excellent condition.

Asking just $45 > 35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 43 1/2

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

10) VINTAGE CASHMERE OVERCOAT!

Dating from between 1949 to 1961--likely late 1950s--this lovely vintage overcoat is cut from wonderfully thick and luxuriously soft cashmere. The tailoring does full justice to the cloth. Although this is cut as a standard mid-century single-breasted overcoat it is packed with additional details. Most obviously, it has two lower patch pockets on the front, both of which are flapped and surrounded by lapped seams. This also features lapped seams down the sleeves, across the shoulders, and down the center back. It also has a single hook vent and features turn-back cuffs with ornamental buttons.

It is fully lined and half-canvassed. It was, of course, Union made in the USA.

It does need a dry clean to freshen it up; it also has some fraying and snags in the lining at the hem. Because of this this is in Good/Very Good condition only, and so is a bargain at just $45 > 35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 39 1/2

11) VINTAGE 1960s Herringbone Tweed Topcoat

This is lovely! Although this lacks any identifying labels, this coat was clearly Made in the USA sometime in the 1960s; it has a classic 1950s/1960s cut, with wonderfully high, narrow lapels and a sleek silhouette. The colouring of the tweed is also classically late 1950s 1960s, being a herringbone in dark brown and black; the sort of muted color combination that was typical of the mid-century.

This coat has a classic three button front with a concealed placket to ensure a sleek silhouette. It is fully lined, and appears to be half-canvassed. It has a single center vent and two button cuffs. The two slash front pockets can either be used to reach through the coat to your jacket pocket, or else used as deep pockets in their own right.

This coat has no damage of any sort, but I'm conservative in rating vintage pieces, so this is in Very Good/Excellent condition. As such, it's a steal at just $49 > 39, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 39

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

12) WONDERFUL VINTAGE Dunn & Co. Tweed topcoat in West of England cloth

Dunn & Co. of England are among the stalwart makers of tweed clothing; their heyday was in the 1950s and 1960s, when their heavyweight tweed offerings became justly recognized as reprsenting superb value for money as well as evincing a particular form of British country style. So well known were they for their tweeds that no American academic visiting England could return without having bought at least one Dunn tweed jacket or coat!

This classic topcoat shows why Dunn were so well known. Dating from the 1960s judging by the classic vibrant 1960s lining and the muter earth tones of the tweed itself, this wonderful coat is cut from extremely hard-wearing and classic West of England tweed. The colourway and patterning f the tweed is wonderful, being a classic shepherd's check in tones of moss, light tan, and golden bracken.

It also has a lovely vintage Dunn & Co label, noting that they cater to clients in both London *and "the provinces"!

The coat features raglan sleeves for ease of movement, a three button front closure, and deep slash handwarmer pockets. It appears to be half-canvassed, and is fully lined. As is often the case with British coats it eschews buttons on the cuffs as unnecessary; it has a single centre vent. The lining is wonderfully 1960s... But, alas, it has multiple frays. These should be patched, but this would be an easy and cheap job. (Or you could have the lining replaced, but why would you want to lose it?) Given this, this coat is in very Good condition only--the tweed itself is in excellent condition--and so this is just $45, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 35 1/2 (+2 1/4) (Measured like a shirt)
Shoulder: NA--raglan sleeves.
Length: 41

tweedydon · Dec 20, 2017

13) Paul Stuart Tweed Double Breasted Overcoat

This is wonderful! Cut from classic grey herringbone tweed, this beautiful coat by Paul Stuart is double breasted with peak lapels. It has four button cuffs, is fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has a chain handtag, that is intact, and a single centre vent. It also features a very deep interior game pocket--oddly, for a coat of this degree of formality--as well as the more usual interior pockets for your wallet. This coat was Made in Canada.

It does have some fraying at the bottom of the lining, as shown; it has also had a small repair done to the lining to reinforce the area where the interior button is located. Given these minor flaws, this is in Very Good condition, and so it is a bargain at just $50 > 35, or offer.

Tagged a 40L, this measures:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 1/)
Shoulder: 18
Length; 45 1/2

14) WONDERFUL MADE IN ENGLAND Classic Grey Herringbone Topcoat in West of England Cloth!

This is lovely! A classic single-breasted topcoat cut from classic grey herringbone West of England cloth, loomed in Oxfordshire (which is in the east of England...), this was Made in England for Saks of Fifth Avenue. It has a three button closure and standard notch lapels, three button cuffs, and a single center vent. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined. This is a lovely, classic coat!

It has a couple of minor mars, however. There is some minor sag to the top of the interior breast pocket; this doesn't affect function, and can't be seen when worn. There are also three very small snag holes by the left hem at the bottom; these could either be rewoven, or else simply darned--or ignored!

Given these issues, this is in Good/Very Good condtion, and so it a bargain at just $45 > 35, or offer!

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 27 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 46

tweedydon · Dec 21, 2017

12 is sold

tweedydon · Jan 20, 2018

PRICE DROPS! Please see updated listings!!

tweedydon · Jan 20, 2018

3 is sold

tweedydon · Jan 20, 2018

4 is sold

tweedydon · Jan 21, 2018

8 and 13 are sold

tweedydon · Jan 21, 2018

9 is sold.

tweedydon · Jan 25, 2018

6 is sold.

1 and 7 are on hold!

tweedydon · Jan 26, 2018

1 and 7 are sold!

tweedydon · Feb 20, 2018

5 is sold!

Bob · Feb 20, 2018

I wear a 42 Long.................are any of them in that size neighborhood.

tweedydon · Feb 20, 2018

Bob said:
I wear a 42 Long.................are any of them in that size neighborhood.

I'm afraid not! The remaining coats are all in the 40 R or L range.

14 CLASSIC Overcoats & Topcoats! British Warm, Tweeds, Cashmere, West of England cloth, ++ $25 up!

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