The V cleats help keep the edge of the heel from excess wear on an all leather heel. I have more work to do on these shoes. I have to deglaze the toe box area for a day or so, as I just soaked them up with some Cadillac conditioner, and I have some shoe dye and a few applicators for that dye. In other words, these shoes are going to be made into spectators with some newly learned technique on how to fade the dye from a dark to a lighter color, which is called by some, "hand painted/dye" which gives some instant patina on the colors used. I have to make up my mind what colors to use as I am leaning towards streak of yellow on the very top that goes into a reddish brown to copper/gold. I have to brush and blend them with a dilution to help keep the dye extra thin until I get about 3 or 4 coats of it on. Then I can seal the dye job up and start to put a mirror polish on them. The soles and heels took me about 4 weeks to do as I only have so much free time in a day to do the work, and using two needles to sew on the soles was a real bugger to do without stabbing my fingers a few times. When I am all done with the dye job, then I will install my sole protector material on the soles and also put on a heel plate for added anti-wear.
Greetings Cindy:
Geez...no I already tossed those out, but I may be able to source some for you. If I can get some I will let you know. Also the anchors for metal cleats attaches to a plate that is normally behind the sole of the shoe and the cork bed, with a thin layer of material between the cork bed and the metal plate to help buffer it You might just look on ebay for any old golf shoe in your size that has the old metal cleats and buy them (you should be able to find some "El Cheapo" price wise if you are just wanting the shoes for parts. If you find a pair, if you have a very sharp short knife with a wide blade, work it into the side of the soles right at the upper line of contact at the welt area and start cutting and peeling all the way around until you expose the cleat plate, make sure you take the cleats off first with a cleat wrench. You will get an idea of how the plate is installed when you look at it before you rob if off the bottom of the shoe. If your waders do not have a welt or a replaceable sole I am not sure the plates for cleats will work as you will have to be able to put a sole on them to hold them in place.
I was looking at some "never worn" black foot joy wingtips on eBay that most likely would fit you and like a dummy I did not direct you to the listing for them. Basically the very same shoe but was a mens dress shoe and not a golf shoe. I went to find them again earlier this evening and they are gone now....
I decided to go with a few green colored dyes instead of the dark red to light with yellow. I intend to have these looking like jewels soon. Right now I have them deglazed and prepped for the dye job including tape along any area that I do not want the dye on. By this time next week I should be about finished...I hope.
Thank you Cindy: good idea to check the bay for a donor pair. Thanks so much for sharing the construction of cleating. I never considered a mounting plate inside.
Sharp shoes! Are they originals?
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the first one
Now those I really like!Allen Edmonds Shaker Heights in walnut with Harris Tweed inserts. I love them.
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