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  1. Qirrel

    Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

    Here's an option from huddersfield cloth: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Product/1681 The price is £38 a metre if I remember correctly.
  2. Qirrel

    measuring high rise

    The rise, in tailoring terminology, is the difference between the inseam and the sideseam/outseam. The width of the waistband is sometimes included. The terms front rise and back rise can be informative, but are not really used in patternmaking. Your natural waist is the place on your torso...
  3. Qirrel

    1920s suits

    It is simply a fashion thing, yes. For full dress waistcoats it had the effect of showing off and framing the starched bib front of the shirt. I guess it served a similar purpouse for the colourful fancy patterned shirts that went with the jazzy suits of the period.
  4. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The fox fabrics are expensive, I agree, but the weights and designs are incomparable to what is available elsewhere. If you want something in the lighter range with nicer designs there is also this range from Huddersfield Cloth: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Products/34
  5. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    You will need to pick it apart and recut it.
  6. Qirrel

    Suits - Pre 1920

    I'd say its a Norwegian thing, as I can't see any of the two images. Maybe the effect is spilling over into Sweden...
  7. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Very nice, Nick!
  8. Qirrel

    What on earth is this jacket about????

    It looks like a jacket of the type used in ISSF-type shooting sports.
  9. Qirrel

    1920s suits

    I wonder if pleats will come back to the contemporary tailoring scene. Has anyone seen modern jackets with action backs, front pleats or anything of the like?
  10. Qirrel

    1920s suits

    There seeems to have been a matter of having as many pleats as possible one some of those 20s jackets.
  11. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The model having a belt I suspect it goes all the way to the sideseam, since that will save some fabric in the cutting, and the belt will hide the seam in any case.
  12. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    My guess would be a cut to the underarm dart or the sideseam.
  13. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    That's how I would have done it too.
  14. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I couldn't find anything in my books. I guess you can figure out a good way to do it by experimenting around a bit.
  15. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I think the area between the pleat, the underarm dart, the pocket and the armhole would be cut as a separate piece. That way there won't be any seam running from the pocket to the sideseam.
  16. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I usually just put in sufficient inlays and baste it up to check if anything needs to be fixed. When making for myself I know what changes need to be made at the pattern stage so most of the time there is nothing to change at the baste.
  17. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Sewn from the back in addition to felling and topstitching? Isn't that a bit overkill
  18. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    It is. The pattern is from 1917, for a belt back sport coat with twin back pleats.
  19. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Same here:
  20. Qirrel

    Show off the sports coats.

    Something along these lines: A soft or stiff fronted shirt with a rather tall collar, some unpleated trousers and perhaps a high buttoning vest. Finding a suitable tie shouldn't be too difficult either; looking at pictures from the era, apparently all sorts of flappy silk things...

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