The rise, in tailoring terminology, is the difference between the inseam and the sideseam/outseam. The width of the waistband is sometimes included. The terms front rise and back rise can be informative, but are not really used in patternmaking.
Your natural waist is the place on your torso...
It is simply a fashion thing, yes. For full dress waistcoats it had the effect of showing off and framing the starched bib front of the shirt. I guess it served a similar purpouse for the colourful fancy patterned shirts that went with the jazzy suits of the period.
The fox fabrics are expensive, I agree, but the weights and designs are incomparable to what is available elsewhere. If you want something in the lighter range with nicer designs there is also this range from Huddersfield Cloth: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Products/34
I wonder if pleats will come back to the contemporary tailoring scene. Has anyone seen modern jackets with action backs, front pleats or anything of the like?
The model having a belt I suspect it goes all the way to the sideseam, since that will save some fabric in the cutting, and the belt will hide the seam in any case.
I think the area between the pleat, the underarm dart, the pocket and the armhole would be cut as a separate piece. That way there won't be any seam running from the pocket to the sideseam.
I usually just put in sufficient inlays and baste it up to check if anything needs to be fixed. When making for myself I know what changes need to be made at the pattern stage so most of the time there is nothing to change at the baste.
Something along these lines:
A soft or stiff fronted shirt with a rather tall collar, some unpleated trousers and perhaps a high buttoning vest. Finding a suitable tie shouldn't be too difficult either; looking at pictures from the era, apparently all sorts of flappy silk things...
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