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  1. Melvin

    Collar of Vintage Leather Jacket Cracking - Causes and Remedies

    Yeah but we're talking a few hours of total wear on a used jacket. The jacket apparently had been well worn by the previous owner. You'd think if the leather there was thin it would already show damage. It looked pristine. A couple hours wear and a crack appears. I then cleaned with...
  2. Melvin

    Collar of Vintage Leather Jacket Cracking - Causes and Remedies

    I bought an old 1960s/70s NYPD leather jacket recently. The collar was fine. In vintage leather jackets I find the collar is the first thing to go due to sweat and skin oil I guess.. In the jackets I've owned it's taken from 2 to 10 years for a collar to begin cracking. In this...
  3. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    Oh, I don't think the "Made in USA" standard production from the 1990s and earlier is necessarily outclassed. Quality of finish on the dead stock jeans I've bought has been impressive. What's good denim: something slubby that fades quickly or something even surfaced that doesn't fade easily...
  4. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    Check out the inseam on these Momotaro jeans. Looks like they're not felled: Was looking at images of other expensive Japanese brands like Studio D'Artisan. They don't have felled inseams either. Just a sewed down overlock. I guess these companies figure that since nobody's going to...
  5. Melvin

    New made to order jacket verse vintage or pre worn jacket

    Vintage feels more like a hobby, whereas buying new things feels more like consumerism. Part of the fun of looking for vintage is the hunt: the belief you can find something exceptional where nobody's looking. I have things I've bought new and things I've thrifted. Both have yielded...
  7. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    I hear you on the 517s. Got a pair of 1990s U.S. made 517s that outspec most anything out today. 7 belt loops, high rise, deep pockets, heavy stiff denim. Some newer "high end" selvedge jeans don't even have felled inseams. These 517s have very thick double felled inseams. The fabric...
  8. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    I notice Levi's has just put "made in the USA" selvedge STF 501s on their website at $148. There are only two catches. - The cotton is imported. This is weird because the supposed reason for the release is the 100 year anniversary of working with Cone Mills. It's only 12 ounce cotton...
  9. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    My 1990s made in USA 501s were made of projectile loom, non-selvedge denim. The fades are nice and quality is good. I think unless you're really attentive to slubbiness or dyeing methods that yield fast or unusual fades I'm not sure the looms make much difference. It seems more limited run...
  10. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    I tried some. The rise was too low for my tastes. I think it was the skinny cut. I'm not sure about the rise on the other styles. I don't understand the fad for low rise jeans. Even if you're not fat the waistband will press on your hips in the back and make you look like you have...
  11. Melvin

    Best currently available denim, for the money and overall?

    Just got my first new jeans in a while this year. I occasionally bought the odd pair on sale over the preceding decade but this year I bought a bunch of pair. Although I like the worn in/patched/lived in look, things were really getting threadbare. Quality domestic choices were limited...
  13. Melvin

    Vintage Eyeglasses

    The style's called a "rimway". They didn't come along until the 1930s. The style continued to be popular into the 1950s and beyond. The difference was they came to be made of plastic and used a filament wire instead of screws to hold the lens in place. Fulvue was an American Optical...
  14. Melvin

    Levi Denim Quality by Country of Manufacture?

    Interesting to look at this thread now. When it started the moving of all Levi's production overseas was recent. It's interesting to look back. I got NOS 501s from the early-mid 1990s perhaps six years ago. Of course they were no longer selvedge but quality still seemed as good as it...
  15. Melvin

    Noble House Company, Ulm, Germany---Stay Away people! Scam alert!

    It's probably a very small company. Given their track record of delivering product and service adequately in the past it's likely whoever's in charge of operations is out or debilitated or something. It's not a positive experience but they've been around a while. I doubt they built a solid...
  16. Melvin

    Trying to get rid of mold smell in leather jacket. Have run out of methods.

    Did the cleaning work? Anyone else have experience with professional cleaning as a last resort after all the things mentioned here haven't worked?
  17. Melvin

    schott a2 jackets??

    I've lurked a while. This thread helped turn my interest towards the 184SM. I figured I might as well post on this thread since I was here. To Big J, that "grass is greener" phenomenon causes men to misjudge many different things, including women. The 184SM is very solid. It's easy to...
  19. Melvin

    schott a2 jackets??

    I'd picked up a couple Schott jackets while still in college and put on muscle since. They were my main jackets for years, though I owned others I wore for spells. They eventually got to fit like some people wear their repro jackets. The time had come to get a leather jacket I could...
  20. Melvin

    Trying to get rid of mold smell in leather jacket. Have run out of methods.

    Thing is the living organism would have to be dead now. The jacket was placed in an oven pre-heated to 500 degrees, not once but twice, and left in a couple hours, until the oven cooled. It's not a matter of killing the mold anymore. There's no way it's alive. It's probable the...
  21. Melvin

    Trying to get rid of mold smell in leather jacket. Have run out of methods.

    Ultimately I might. I haven't had the best luck with dry cleaners and getting rid of smells. For dubious results I'm reluctant to exceed the cost of the jacket by an expensive dry cleaning. Also, if I can figure out how to do this successfully just about any leather garment can be saved...
  22. Melvin

    Trying to get rid of mold smell in leather jacket. Have run out of methods.

    Hello. I got a German reefer type jacket - early to mid 20th Century, double breasted, mock belt on back, hip length. Variations were used as service jackets from WWI to the 1990s. Most here probably know the style. I think the one I got was immediately post WWII production. Quality...

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