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  1. L

    Formal Wear Primer

    Au contraire, every time I've seen white tie trousers discussed on the lounge, and in all the vintage plates I've seen, white tie trousers have had one or two stripes.
  2. L

    Morning dress

    Frock coats demand better tailoring and a better body to look good, but if you have both of those, they're simply stunning.
  3. L

    Panama Hat Thread

    I bought two panamas from Bob a little over a month ago and they've just arrived. I've also never posted my Christy's panama and I thought I'd show that too. It's the "superfine preset". The two hats from Bob were a really cheap grueso for working at the allotment and a sub-fino montecristi that...
  4. L

    Summer and Sunday best?

    Oh, I didn't mean you followed Victorian rules, just that if they thought it was okay (and they had strict rules) you shouldn't worry. In all the photos I've seen of you you look fantastic and have obvious style. I'm sure you would easily be able to pull off dark linen in a city. And yes...
  5. L

    Morning dress

    The actual sewing of a body coat might not be a huge amount more difficult (although there are many more seams - e.g. the horizontal waist seam, and more pieces on a body coat - a morning coat has two tail pieces, one centre back, two back and two front pieces - a total of seven compared to a...
  6. L

    Summer and Sunday best?

    Are you based in a city btw, avedwards? Obviously in cities traditionally in the UK you'd never wear beige or linen (or straw) but if you're in a tiny town, village or hamlet, it'd be completely okay. I'm aware you're not a fan of the Jeremy Brett Holmes, but it was very accurate when it comes...
  7. L

    Morning dress

    A body coat is far harder than a lounge coat. I do agree with not calling him a tailor though (as that implies a career).
  8. L

    Morning dress

    I know he's made fully tailored overcoats at least, and have seen photos. He's said he's made body coats (and I have no reason to disbelieve him), so a regular lounge coat seems doable.
  9. L

    Morning dress

    True, although he can tailor, just doesn't do it professionally.
  10. L

    Morning dress

    The thing is, the Cutter & Tailor is primarily for tailors and for sustaining the craft. I'd love it if all tailors could start making morning dress, vintage-style suits with heavy weight wools, etc., but that's not what fashion dictates and so not what people want. Yes, there are some people...
  11. L

    Morning dress

    Yes, but when pantaloons were used the items they described looked nothing like modern trousers. pan·ta·loon (pnt-ln) n. a. Men's wide breeches extending from waist to ankle, worn especially in England in the late 17th century. Often used in the plural. b. Tight trousers extending from waist...
  12. L

    Summer and Sunday best?

    Funnily enough, even south Sweden is warmer than the UK in summer (and by the UK I mean the south - I'm from Wiltshire and it's noticeably cooler there in summer, and especially a lot less humid). I can't wait to move back and be more comfortable in summer.
  13. L

    Is it a bowler... or a homburg..? Or something else...?

    I'd not say it's a high crown bowler. This is a high crown bowler: The squared off bowler-style (we'll ignore the brim as that's probably just because it's a cheap modern hat), also worn by Churchill: I seem to think that someone on the forum managed to find a name for these a while back...
  14. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    True, but a google search for Tux with Tails http://www.google.co.uk/search?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&biw=1280&bih=700&site=search&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=tux+with+tails&aq=f&aqi=g1g-m2&aql=&oq= shows white tie, but nobody's trying to get that used ;)...
  15. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    I've had a look through the texts I've got and haven't really found anything either way. Most references have been just about the coat. However the more I think about it the more I agree with you. It's the same as I said about the stroller/black lounge - outside of eveningwear and at funerals...
  16. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    Mm, although they're just using suit to mean trousers+waistcoat+coat, no mention of morning suit (they'd have written "just one or two pieces of your morning suit" instead of "your Morning Dress outfit", surely. It's a much worse sentence with "Morning Dress outfit" so seems pointless unless...
  17. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    Oh, I don't buy the French "to follow" either. I'll dig around my literature (and the cutterandtailor.com stuff - you might be interested there, there's an astounding amount there). As for Huntsman - yeah, they use morning dress and morning coat. Can't see a mention of morning suit anywhere...
  18. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    I've seen plenty of period documents showing that morning suit means the full suit only. I think when wanting a noun you'd just say your morning coat. That's what I end up doing, anyway. It's also not just internet forums that have the distinction - Savile Row use it too. If the distinction is...
  19. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    Yeah, a morning coat is a also tailcoat. The coat worn with white tie can be called a dress coat to differentiate between both varities of tailcoat.
  20. L

    Morning suit v lounge suit

    Of course they mean morning dress rather than a morning suit (/pedant).

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