it probably happened sooner, but i think the early 80s over-sized jackets by Armani et al are to blame. many 80s anomalies have become standard.Originally Posted by Senator Jack
it probably happened sooner, but i think the early 80s over-sized jackets by Armani et al are to blame. many 80s anomalies have become standard.
Gee, you're thin. What's that space-age vehicle behind you? Ladies' armholes got big too in the late 60s to 70s. Yuk.
Regards,
Senator Jack
Ashley
Thin? Thanks, but I got this big booze gut about the middle that I can never get rid of. The space age vehicle? Probably a Cop in a Box.
More 50s coming - including the padded shoulder winter coat.
Regards,
Senator Jack
The same could be said for much of the architectural and auto design of the era.
Great fabric! In fact, that is overall a great suit. How heavy/light-weight is it?
bk
There is but one truly serious philosophical problem, and that is suicide. All the rest . . . comes afterwards. Camus
http://baronkurtzvintage.wordpress.com/
It's definitely a New York 2-season suit. I'd say about 13-14 oz. Even with the skeleton lining, it's warm.
Yes, Tomasso, being a proponent, I always use exactly that word: sleek. 50s suits may not have been about the boldness of the cut, but they definitely were about the pattern of the material.
If anyone is interested in a GREAT 50s suit - bluish grey with white fleck - there's a size 42 at Andy's Cheepees that he can't get rid of - Unfortunately, way too big for me or I would have snapped it up. I think he's asking $180 for it. Well worth it.
Regards,
Senator Jack
Sorry for the poor pictures, all I have on hand at the moment.
This was given to me by my former father in law. He would have worn it in the mid 1950's. It used to fit after altering it, but I will never be 25 again.
Two piece, three button. Pleated, notched, dropped loops. Watch pocket. But quite baggy and sacklike. Thin rayon sort of stuff, and nubby. About a 42R or so.
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A sense of the fundamental decencies is parcelled out unequally at birth. - Fitzgerald
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Note that JFK is carrying a hat. A sop to the hatter's union. Is Ike following his lead? Eisenhower was determined to be courteous to the incoming President, having been horribly snubbed by Truman.
I love that JFK used his jacket pockets as a sort of "what to do with my hands" prop. It detracts attention from his usually obvious bad-back stiffness. One wonders if it was a studied move.
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A sense of the fundamental decencies is parcelled out unequally at birth. - Fitzgerald
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Here's what I've concluded, based on the vintage jackets I've seen and inspected.
On conservative suit jackets (not "Beatle" jackets), armholes became lower in the early 1960s. Believe it or not, Brooks Brothers led the way. (In fact, since at least the 1920s, 3-button sack suits have had slightly lower armholes than the norm.)
Then, in the late '60s and early '70s, the Carnaby Street/Pierre Cardin "flare" suit took hold. These suits had jackets with narrow sleeves and high armholes. The look lasted until the end of the '70s.
Around 1980, two very influential menswear designers brought back the low armhole: Willi Smith (of "WilliWear") and Georgio Armani. These men almost singlehandedly created the trend for low armholes, broad padded shoulders, and drapey natural fabrics. Customers who "pumped up" their arms at the gym found lower armholes to be more comfortable ... and dress shirts started to be made with lower armholes, too.
Today, most dress shirts and jackets continue to have low armholes, though this is changing.
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And he's wearing a "continental" suit.
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