Button-Down Collars with Suits

[Undertow]

Okay, perhaps I've missed some hard rule of etiquette that I ought to know...

What are the rules (if any) regarding wearing button-down collar shirts with suits?

I've heard whispers that it's tacky; no suit or jacket/trouser combo should have a button-down collar. Those should be reserved for days when no jacket is worn.

On the other hand, I've heard folks say it's entirely preference and that an office dweller may feel completely comfortable wearing button-down collars with his three piece or other.

I've searched the FL and I can't seem to find the answer I need so if I've missed a thread regarding this issue, please feel free to delete this thread, move it, or otherwise kick my rear in the right direction! Thanks!

[Feraud]

There is nothing wrong with button down collars. They showed up in plenty of single and double breasted suits if period authenticity is desired.

[Starius]

I think thats a good question! (Because I didn't know the answer either.)

But, I did read this from http://men.style.com/gq/fashion/styleguy/shirts/417

Q: I wear a variety of shirt-collar styles with my suits, including tab, spread, point and button-down. However, I’m not liking the look of button-down collars with suits anymore. Is it an inappropriate combination? Also, are tab collars out of style? If not, how should I wear them?

A: I feel as though I answer this question every month. Button-downs are sporty. They go with sport coats, and they can be worn with single-breasted suits but not on more formal occasions. Tab collars can be stylish. You can’t wear them if you have too big a face. And if you wear them without a tie, people will think you are copying Bob Dylan, not a look I recommend for everyone.

May 2001

[Starius]

Oh, and here are a bunch of opinions on the subject:

Ask MetaFilter: Can I wear a button down collar with a suit and tie?

Which includes a link to a rather interesting book.

[Feraud]

To simplify the reqeust I look at it like this -
Was it done in the Golden Era? Answer: Yes!
That is good enough for me. Further discussion of "is it popular, trendy, acceptable" etc., etc. does not interest me. I can decide when to wear a button down.

Part of having Style is not letting random trend setters dictate what is acceptable for you.

[Baron Kurtz]

Many people claim to dislike the look of button down collars, particularly with DB suit jackets, which is a perfectly acceptable individual style choice.

The men's wear establishment being what it is you'll hear an awful lot about what is 'correct' and 'incorrect' when wearing button-down collars. I believe they were originally intended as 'sporting' shirts. Does this mean they must remain, forever and a day, relegated for use as sporting shirts? Some would have it yes, claiming that the supposed tradition is more important than personal style choices. The more i hear this argument i feel more and more that it is someone trying to bolster his style choices with a veneer of traditional combinations that really didn't exist.

Make of the arguments what you will. I think it's quite clear where i stand on this issue.

bk

[Orgetorix]

It's a tricky question, and one that has had a lot of debate on clothing forums.

I regularly wear a button-down collar shirt when I'm wearing an odd jacket and slacks. I seldom, if ever, wear one with a suit, and when I do it's almost always with a more casual suit. The BD collar is relatively less formal than a straight/point/spread/whatever collar, and I just don't think it has enough gravity for more formal suits. I never wear one, for example, with a double-breasted suit. I know Astaire and other Golden-era dandies did so, but they could make just about anything look good. On ordinary people, it usually looks odd. Same with using a necktie as a belt, another Astaire habit.

[Tomasso]

with DB suit jackets, which is a perfectly acceptable individual style choice.

BTW, notice the button down-double cuff combo.

[iammatt]

BTW, notice the button down-double cuff combo.

As we spoke about some time back, I had a couple of shirts made up like this. I have found that I really like them, although I have not put one on with a DB suit. I had planned on white only, but also had a blue stripe done that came out very well. Have you gotten around to ordering one up yet?

As to the original question, I think it is just fine and often looks excellent. IMO it is a better look than some of the ridiculous spreads one sees everywhere nowadays.

[Baron Kurtz]

That is a particularly lovely collar grant is wearing. Look at the size/depth of it! (Particularly in the back.) Very odd for the era.

bk