Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[herringbonekid]

i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?

[Qirrel]

i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?

Chest pocket: (It doesn't make that much of a difference though.)

It was printed for the first time in 1920, the exact publication date is unknown. The pattern is probably the original from 1920.

[Mario]

also, when using those old pattern drafting books do you make a 'toile' first or just go straight to the final fabric ?

Please excuse my ignorance if it comes to the terms of the tailoring trade (especially in English), but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?

[herringbonekid]

...but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.

[Mario]

Thanks!

[DeaconKC]

Marlo, I'm glad you asked that, because I didn't know what it was either! My Dad always said you should learn something new everyday.

[Nick D]

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit.

An American alternative is a 'muslin', from the fabric used. What is called muslin in the US is more akin to UK calico.

[Qirrel]

Attaching stay tapes to the jacket fronts. The tape which is sewn to the inlay also acts as a bridle; it is held in tightly to force the fabric to clip in to the hips.

[Qirrel]

Putting on buttonhole stays:


Turning the facings and basting around the edge:


Facings completed:

[Anthony Jordan]

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.

I understand that Frank Shattuck in NYC does, but that he is fairly unique in this respect.