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Thread: Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

  1. #341
    I'll Lock Up herringbonekid's Avatar
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    i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

    do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?

  2. #342
    Practically Family Qirrel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by herringbonekid View Post
    i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

    do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?
    Chest pocket: (It doesn't make that much of a difference though.)

    It was printed for the first time in 1920, the exact publication date is unknown. The pattern is probably the original from 1920.

  3. #343
    I'll Lock Up Mario's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by herringbonekid View Post
    also, when using those old pattern drafting books do you make a 'toile' first or just go straight to the final fabric ?
    Please excuse my ignorance if it comes to the terms of the tailoring trade (especially in English), but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?

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  4. #344
    I'll Lock Up herringbonekid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mario View Post
    ...but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?
    a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.

  5. #345
    I'll Lock Up Mario's Avatar
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    Thanks!

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  6. #346
    One Too Many DeaconKC's Avatar
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    Marlo, I'm glad you asked that, because I didn't know what it was either! My Dad always said you should learn something new everyday.

  7. #347
    Call Me a Cab Nick D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by herringbonekid View Post
    a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit.
    An American alternative is a 'muslin', from the fabric used. What is called muslin in the US is more akin to UK calico.
    Monocle: This may be worn by (1) good dukes, (2) all Englishmen. No bad man may wear a monocle. ~P. G. Wodehouse

  8. #348
    Practically Family Qirrel's Avatar
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    Attaching stay tapes to the jacket fronts. The tape which is sewn to the inlay also acts as a bridle; it is held in tightly to force the fabric to clip in to the hips.


  9. #349
    Practically Family Qirrel's Avatar
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    Putting on buttonhole stays:


    Turning the facings and basting around the edge:


    Facings completed:


  10. #350
    Practically Family Anthony Jordan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by herringbonekid View Post
    a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.
    I understand that Frank Shattuck in NYC does, but that he is fairly unique in this respect.

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