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Thread: Circa 1929 Mario Fortuny Delphos Pleated Gown at auction

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    My Mail is Forwarded Here Vintage Betty's Avatar
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    Circa 1929 Mario Fortuny Delphos Pleated Gown at auction

    I know The Fedora Lounge frowns on live Ebay auctions. But since the starting bid on this item is $1500 and the estimated value is $6000, I think most of us can only afford to look and wish.



    Here's the link with the rest of the photos

    Vintage Betty

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    One Too Many Mojito's Avatar
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    If I ever win the lottery, I *will* own a Fortuny. Love them. I particularly like the accesories he designed to go with them.

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    One Too Many Laura Chase's Avatar
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    Look at that pleating! Very delicate and Grecian.

    I hadn't heard of Mario Fortuny before, but after googling him it seems like he is right up there with Poiret and Schiaparelli. Is he especially known for pleating? What can you gals tell me?
    When a girl takes off her clothes, she puts on a smile!

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    Distinguished Service Award Lauren's Avatar
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    Droool. There was one up on ebay, I think this year, with the original box and sash. I saved the pics to my computer, but it's kind of on it's last legs so I can't share them

    *edit* looking at link first helps. So that's the SECOND this year!! Wow!

    A story I heard from the guy I met who first got me into real vintage clothing (and not just costumes) was that there was an auction down by Hotel Del in the 70s or 80s and a friend told him later that there were two original Fortuny gowns that were auctioned as nightgowns! They went for a song, apparently, so there may be some hope for those of us who year to have one someday- though at this point I'd probably donate it to a museum should I ever find one.
    http://wearinghistoryblog.com
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    One Too Many Mojito's Avatar
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    That sounds like one of those fantasies we all have, Lauren - I've always imagined walking into a garage sale and finding someone selling off great-grandmothers old clothes, and finding a Fortuny curled up in its box. Unfortunately now all a seller would have to do was enter the name in google to realise immediately what a treasure they had!

    Laura, Fortuny is interesting - he occupies a sort of timeless place in design, both in and outside fashion. The pleating process is probably what he's most known for - the pleating was done by hand on wet or damp fabric, held in place with stitches and set with heat. There are many imitators, but no one has ever really duplicated it. He developed it in 1907 - 08 and patented the process in November 1909, and continued making variations until his death in 1949 - it can consequently sometimes be difficult to date the gowns. There were many variations - sleeves lenths, width, tunics...even rare pleated trousers! A tunic, or "Peplos" version, was made in the 1920s. Early Delphos gowns had batwing sleeves, laced up to the shoulders, held in place by hand-blown Murano beads. They were also belted in a variety of ways - either at or just above the natural waist, or Grecian style criss-crossed over the waist.

    The accessories are as gorgeous as the gowns - like belts and capes made with wonderful stencilled designs, showing his many Greek, Italian (particularly the Renaissance), Egyptian, Indian, Persian, African, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, North African etc influences.

    From Vintagetextile.com:


    Dress and belt


    Close up of name

    As Lauren mentions, these were sold boxed. After wearing, to keep the pleats intact, you coiled them up and stored them in the box:







    Fortuny silk velvet hooded cape hand stenciled with Coptic motifs, c.1920. Provenance: from the collection of Gloria Vanderbilt.


    Fortuny silk pleated Delphos dress with Venetian glass beads on the sides, c.1925-1930. The belt and dress seams are marked "Fortuny DSE."

    Hand stenciled silk velvet purse attributed to Fortuny, c.1925.

  6. #6
    One Too Many Vanessa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage Betty

    Here's a bit from the auction description:

    Found in the dressing room closet in the estate. The nephew thinks it was perhaps her coming out gown, and looks like it was only worn once if at all. In it's original box ( a little damage on the box) and a note from the fortuny Co
    Yes, please I'll take two.
    Oh, don't let's ask for the moon. We have the stars.

  7. #7
    I'll Lock Up
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage Betty
    I know The Fedora Lounge frowns on live Ebay auctions. But since the starting bid on this item is $1500 and the estimated value is $6000, I think most of us can only afford to look and wish.

    This is fine.

    It falls under #2 of the Exceptions to the rules.


    Exceptions:
    * Items that are not one-of-a-kind that are offered by eBay members as a Buy It Now product on an ongoing basis. You will find links here to sales of inexpensive razor blades, for example. They are always offered, always at a standard price, and the ingredient of competition among bidders is removed.
    * Items that are clearly, obviously, WAY outside the fold of our member's general bidding ability or interest. For example: Clark Gable's Packard is bringing $2 million.
    They say ignorance is bliss, but it really just means you failed to learn.

  8. #8
    Practically Family ShoreRoadLady's Avatar
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    I know what *I* want for Christmas now! Isn't it gorgeous?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mojito
    That sounds like one of those fantasies we all have, Lauren - I've always imagined walking into a garage sale and finding someone selling off great-grandmothers old clothes, and finding a Fortuny curled up in its box. Unfortunately now all a seller would have to do was enter the name in google to realise immediately what a treasure they had!
    Mine too! If only. *sigh*

  9. #9
    "A List" Customer MissAmelina's Avatar
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    Holy Moly! Too many things to love in this world...too many things. Sigh.
    Doesn't this almost look like the same dress??


  10. #10
    My Mail is Forwarded Here Vintage Betty's Avatar
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    The interesting thing about Fortuny Gowns, as I understand it, is that it is very important for the gown to be stowed twisted to retain the pleats. In other words, not just to wrap the gown back into a circle in the box, but actually go to the trouble of twisting the entire gown into a gentle corkscrew pattern before placing the gown into the box in a circle form.

    Anyone else hear this?

    Since I highly doubt I will own one of these treasures in my lifetime, I'd just like the opportunity to study it in person.

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