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Thread: Oxxford

  1. #1
    Bartender Matt Deckard's Avatar
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    Oxxford

    Oxxford is currently thought of as the best men's suit maker in the US today. I have one of their jackets and although it doesn't fit me, the construction is very sturdy from the shoulders down. There is even a thread that goes across the back of the right lapel so when you place a flower in your lapel button hole you can place the stem through the thread to keep the flower standing. Lots of little details in the creation of the lapels trousers and sleaves that many companies believe are a waste of money
    I ran into the owner of Oxxford about 2 years ago at a trunk show in Beverly Hills and must say the suit was very ill fitting. I am not a fan of the cut on most of their suits, though if they can get the design right then the construction would be next to perfect. They still need to start making suits with Skeleton linings like they were sold back in the 30's and 40's.

    The standard make of an Oxxford suit jacket is 3/4 lined. It's a nice touch but to me it harks back to when suits started getting cheaper and the tailors did away with taping the seams over with liner material (skeleton lining)

    Back in the 20's 30's and 40's Brooks Brothers used to stack their suit jackets several layers high on tables. They would have them folded inside out so you could see the maticulous work that went into the construction of the garment, and the skeleton lining that takes extra time and extra detail to create when compared to a fully lined suit that covers up the construction.

    For refference, here is a vintage skeleton lining.
    Looking for my Emma Peel.

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  2. #2
    Familiar Face
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    Blazer

    I picked up a SB navy blazer from them on ebay; it fits me well and I have to say its the best constructed piece I've ever held.

    Its summer weight (I can wear it year round here) and since it isn't fully lined, the details are more clear. On mine, there's actually a button hole in the backside of the right lapel for the flower stem.

    Solid brass buttons too.

    And best of all, it was $40!! I wear a 44R, so finding items is pretty easy, but getting deals isn't.

  3. #3
    Bartender Matt Deckard's Avatar
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    I was a 44, and a 46 at one point. I am now a loose 42.
    Looking for my Emma Peel.

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  4. #4
    Familiar Face
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Deckard
    I was a 44, and a 46 at one point. I am now a loose 42.
    Good for you! I'm down to around 200 from 240lbs; I've set myself a target of 190. When I get there I'll shell out for some quality clothes.

  5. #5
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    I'm having awful luck finding my size 44 long. And when I do find a 44 there is not enough extra in the sleeves to make it worth it...
    Shamus

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    Bartender jamespowers's Avatar
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    They even skeleton lined overcoats in the golden age. The overcoats even have a welt gun pocket on the inside of some of them. I do not think we lost all the good tailors and such but they were absorbed by the custom suit makers and the high end suit makers. I am sure there are those who could still do it but they might be a little old to remember how it was done. I used to have a great local tailor trained in Italy---Pinzaroni. He retired and now the shop is an Indian dress shop.
    I have been tailorless ever since.
    Here is an example of the overcoat I spoke of:


    I hope it is clear enough to see the detail.

    Regards to all,

    J
    People think they are so rebellious and original, when really they are just banal, boring and dumb.

  7. #7
    Bartender jamespowers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Deckard
    Back in the 20's 30's and 40's Brooks Brothers used to stack their suit jackets several layers high on tables. They would have them folded inside out so you could see the maticulous work that went into the construction of the garment, and the skeleton lining that takes extra time and extra detail to create when compared to a fully lined suit that covers up the construction.

    For refference, here is a vintage skeleton lining.
    You are completely right. Covering up such a work of craftsmanship would be a shame. Covering up the shoddy looking modern workmanship is a must because you would not want that seen when you take off your jacket.

    Regards to all,

    J

    P.S. Out of curiousity, what brand is that jacket? I cannot see it clearly.
    People think they are so rebellious and original, when really they are just banal, boring and dumb.

  8. #8
    I'll Lock Up cookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamus
    I'm having awful luck finding my size 44 long. And when I do find a 44 there is not enough extra in the sleeves to make it worth it...

    got to the UK sites such as bookster

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Deckard
    Oxxford is currently thought of as the best men's suit maker in the US today. I have one of their jackets and although it doesn't fit me, the construction is very sturdy from the shoulders down. There is even a thread that goes across the back of the right lapel so when you place a flower in your lapel button hole you can place the stem through the thread to keep the flower standing. Lots of little details in the creation of the lapels trousers and sleaves that many companies believe are a waste of money
    I ran into the owner of Oxxford about 2 years ago at a trunk show in Beverly Hills and must say the suit was very ill fitting. I am not a fan of the cut on most of their suits, though if they can get the design right then the construction would be next to perfect. They still need to start making suits with Skeleton linings like they were sold back in the 30's and 40's.

    The standard make of an Oxxford suit jacket is 3/4 lined. It's a nice touch but to me it harks back to when suits started getting cheaper and the tailors did away with taping the seams over with liner material (skeleton lining)

    Back in the 20's 30's and 40's Brooks Brothers used to stack their suit jackets several layers high on tables. They would have them folded inside out so you could see the maticulous work that went into the construction of the garment, and the skeleton lining that takes extra time and extra detail to create when compared to a fully lined suit that covers up the construction.

    For refference, here is a vintage skeleton lining.
    Why is Oxxford thought of as the best in America?

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  10. #10
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    Did you know that before the later 1940s, "Oxxford Clothes" was written (on the labels) as "Oxford Clothes"? I've never been able to find out why they changed the spelling. Perhaps Oxford University threatened to sue?


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