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[gtdean48]

Well, it's not blocked, it was open crown, but the second time I took it to Peters Bros he steamed in a unsatisfactory (to me) shape. I really think I could steam it back, but I feel uneasy about steaming it myself, because I don't want to end up shrinking the hat. Alternatively, I read somewhere here about misting it with cool water. I just want to know the best method of steaming it (or misting it), so I don't screw it up beyond saving. If that doesn't work, then I'll move on to more drastic measures like the Hat Shaper.

Steaming relaxes the felt because it helps with moisture absorption. It also reactivates the shellac in the felt when it cools. I use cool, distilled water in a spray bottle if I am doing drastic crease work. Small tweaks, I use steam. One trick is to use a bowl or large spoon to smooth out the crown back to Open Crown form. You are only steaming the felt to get it to mold easily & you still have to be able to handle it = if you are steaming it so long that it is too hot for your hands, you are doing it too long. You won't damage the felt unless you go way past this point.
Even after a drastic creasing, I'll steam the crown to set the crease by reactivating the shellac.
Hat Shaper is good for taking out hard pressed factory creases like in modern Stetsons...

[Connoisseur_BP]

Could someone please explain the grading system to me on Panama hats? For example, which grade is more desirable? Thank you in advance.

[BR Gordon]

Could someone please explain the grading system to me on Panama hats? For example, which grade is more desirable? Thank you in advance.

Which type of panamas, cuencas or montecristis?

If you go to PanamaBobs site you can get a lot of information about panamas. http://panamas.biz/

[CONELRAD]

Steaming relaxes the felt because it helps with moisture absorption. It also reactivates the shellac in the felt when it cools. I use cool, distilled water in a spray bottle if I am doing drastic crease work. Small tweaks, I use steam. One trick is to use a bowl or large spoon to smooth out the crown back to Open Crown form. You are only steaming the felt to get it to mold easily & you still have to be able to handle it = if you are steaming it so long that it is too hot for your hands, you are doing it too long. You won't damage the felt unless you go way past this point.
Even after a drastic creasing, I'll steam the crown to set the crease by reactivating the shellac.
Hat Shaper is good for taking out hard pressed factory creases like in modern Stetsons...

Ah, thank you very much, that helps a lot, I've been wanting to try to steam it but I was too scared I'd mess it up to actually do it, that's just the information I needed.

One last thing before I'm out of all of your hair, when I condition the sweatband should I leave it as it is or turn it inside-out? I've thought about it, and in my mind both ways would have their pros and cons. Which way do you guys do it? (I hate to repost this at the risk of sounding too pushy, but this is such a fast moving thread, I think it'll be forgotten in no time if I don't.)

[gtdean48]

...One last thing before I'm out of all of your hair, when I condition the sweatband should I leave it as it is or turn it inside-out? ...

When I work with a vintage sweat, I condition it as is. Even though they appear & feel supple, flipping them inside out can cause splits & cracks or even stress the old thread of the stitching.
If I am applying a lot of conditioner, I'll slip a paper towel between the sweat & the crown just incase some soaks thru or there is a hole or crack I didn't find.

[CONELRAD]

When I work with a vintage sweat, I condition it as is. Even though they appear & feel supple, flipping them inside out can cause splits & cracks or even stress the old thread of the stitching.
If I am applying a lot of conditioner, I'll slip a paper towel between the sweat & the crown just incase some soaks thru or there is a hole or crack I didn't find.

I've already turned the band inside-out several times, and while it didn't crack, it did crease a bit more than I think it should've, which is partly what makes me think it's a bit on the dry side. But I'll leave it as is for this anyway, and put some paper towels in just to be safe. Thank you very much for all of your answers by the way, I think I've finally got all the information I need, but I can't promise I won't be back here.

[Alive'n'Amplified]

Noob Question:

How are X's used to designate the quality of a hat? What does it mean with 3 X's vs. 5 X's, etc.?

[LoveMyHats2]

In some ways the "X" on a hat will depend on who made the hat. A stetson say for example with more "X" on it will normally be a finer quality beaver blend to it, and as the "x"''s go up so does the quality. I have owned a five X older stetson and you could tell it was more supple than a 3 x. Some hats however that are wool will have some "x"'s on them, now that I have no way to say why? You will see that in some cheaper cowboy hats. I think there is a article (maybe here also) but if you google about the "x" factor, explains it in detail. Perhaps someone else can add to all this????

[gtdean48]

Noob Question:

How are X's used to designate the quality of a hat? What does it mean with 3 X's vs. 5 X's, etc.?

It is only relative to hats made during the same era for Stetson. Earlier 3X's are better quality than later 4X's or even 10X. Lots of reading in the Lounge on this subject....

[Connoisseur_BP]

Which type of panamas, cuencas or montecristis?

If you go to PanamaBobs site you can get a lot of information about panamas. http://panamas.biz/

Wow, thank you kindly! That helped a lot actually. I feel like a just took Panama Hats 101 and know a lot about them now.