In support of what Mr. Deckard has been saying all along:
From the premier issue of Men's Vogue (which isn't that bad), "Alexandre Plokhov is lifting his arm up and down, up and down, to emphasize his point. 'It's all about getting the cut of the sleeve right', he says. 'A narrow armhole is better. It it's too deep, it tends to lift the jacket when you raise your arm.'
This is one of the many laws of tailordynamics that govern the science of suitmaking."
[Plokhov is a bespoke tailor (Cloak Bespoke)]
And
From the textbook Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear [Fairchild Publications, 1983-1984, Robert Cabrera & Patricia Flaherty Meyers]
"Contrary to popular belief, the most comfortable armhole for a sleeve is one which is cut as high as possible without restricting the forward movement of the arm. A low-cut armhole is only comfortable if a sleeve is not attached. With a sleeve set into a low-cut armhole, raising one's arm involves raising the entire side of the jacket."
And there you have it. I have yet to see a modern off the rack suit jacket or sport coat at any price with properly set sleeves, with the possible and unlikely exception of the very cheap cotton twill throw-on jacket that I got at Old Navy for $20, that is otherwise quite puckered and sloppy, and only suitable for lay-about weekend trips to the store for milk.
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Originally Posted by scotrace
