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Thread: Magnoli's suits.

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  1. #1
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    Magnoli's suits.

    Have you boys seen this...

    https://host385.ipowerweb.com/~indyp...merce/catalog/

    A chinatown three piece with half belt back and a two button double breasted.

    The details still need to be worked out but he's finally answering a call so many have attempted.

    The half belt is there for looks, it doesn't look functional. It reminds me of a horizontal version of the Indy pleat like the top and bottom were folded in and stitched to form a "belt". It doesn't look like it's actually hugging the waist like it should.The vest should be a little higher cut with four pockets instead of two. The arm holes are like modern suits (insert furious Matt Deckard comment) and the drape seems off which proves that modern fabric cannot hold it's own in a fight against the vintage stuff!

    but... with all that said, at least Magnoli is responding to the public's needs.
    God Bless you too, Jim Carrey Veronica Parra

    www.treasureofthetemplars.com

  2. #2
    Bartender Andykev's Avatar
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    Photos not that good

    I looked at the pics of the double breasted...and the pics were not that good. I hope the suit is better looking in person. I like the style, but something just doesn't look right. Does anyone else feel that way?
    "Thanks for the memories...."
    I can't believe it's been ELEVEN years!!

  3. #3
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    I actually like the color of the fabric, but there is something off about the drape. Lauren Henline, who is a seamstress, noticed that the back of the shoulder seemed... ill-balanced.

    The lapels are much too modern for my taste. I prefer the straighter lapels on a vintage double breasted... but that's just me.
    God Bless you too, Jim Carrey Veronica Parra

    www.treasureofthetemplars.com

  4. #4
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    Commrades,

    Wake up men.
    The cold hard reality is this.
    You will not find the fabrical equivalent of our beloved vintage, from any tailor. Anywhere.
    Why?
    Because material is no longer loomed the same.

    The threads and wools of our vintage suits is denser, thicker and weightier.
    They had "body" as a result, .... from which the 'drape' naturally expressed itself.
    All modern day fabrics are thinner, lighter and most often blended.
    So they they wont 'drape'. They cant.

    No matter how skilled with a needle you may be.

    Let me put it this way, painting on a canvas will not get the same results as painting on a t-shirt. No matter how good the artist.

    Further,..to loom the fabric the old way would make the yardage mind bogglingly expensive.

    Its just the bottom line, cheaper, quicker, way of the times.
    Just like all buildings today are made out of glass and steel instead of ornated limestone.
    Just like a cars are made from fiberglass and plastic instead of steel and chrome.
    And in a national society of jeans and sneakers,...who cares?


    Thems the facts.






    EL C.

  5. #5
    One Too Many Vladimir Berkov's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EL COLORADO
    Commrades,

    Wake up men.
    The cold hard reality is this.
    You will not find the fabrical equivalent of our beloved vintage, from any tailor. Anywhere.
    Why?
    Because material is no longer loomed the same.
    EL C.
    I don't think the wool used is the problem with these suits at all. The problem is how they are cut. In the double-breasted model the problem seems to mainly exist in the chest/shoulders area. The lapels are the wrong style and size for that type of suit, they throw the balance of the jacket off. The way the jacket is cut from the shoulders through the chest also looks wrong to me. The chest area looks sort of bulbous and rounded, like it is too big for rest of the jacket. Overall it looks almost like someone took features from 3 or 4 different suits of different styles and threw them together into one suit.

    As for the material, the problem isn't that today's wool is of a lesser quality. The reverse is actually true. Suits are being made of material which was basically impossible to have been made in the 30s or 40s. The problem is that most modern suits are made to be worn year-round in climate-controlled offices. Thus there is not much of a market for suits of heavy wool for winter and thus those weights of cloth aren't made so much.

    If you are having a bespoke suit made and want to have a heavier material it isn't a huge problem finding them although the patterns may be slightly limited. The use of sportcoat or topcoat weight wools will result in a vintage drape for example, while it is still easy to find summer-weight wool for summer and spring suits.

  6. #6
    Distinguished Service Award Lauren's Avatar
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    Actually, both. But the sleeves aren't right. Making them hang right will make it look a heck of a lot better. Not period, mind you, but like a better suit.

    For the guy that wants a vintage "look" these aren't too bad... maybe it will lead them to actual vintage, to being educated in the fit, cut and fabric of a vintage suit and that's not a bad thing...
    http://wearinghistoryblog.com
    "...be transformed by the renewing of your mind." Romans 12:2

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vladimir Berkov
    I don't think the wool used is the problem with these suits at all. The problem is how they are cut.
    Looks like both to me! Like dig those tissue paper ruffles on the jacket sleeves and pant legs! Yowza!


    Quote Originally Posted by Vladimir Berkov
    The problem is that most modern suits are made to be worn year-round in climate-controlled offices. Thus there is not much of a market for suits of heavy wool for winter and thus those weights of cloth aren't made so much.
    Not much of a market??
    Im sure not in the Lone Star. But in the frigid Northern corporate capitols of Chicago, New York, DC, Boston, etc...where most folks publicly commute. Theres plenty market.

    But hey, whatever. Amen to the fellas and gals that can find their dream threads,.. modern or vintage.




    EL C.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Riser
    I actually like the color of the fabric, but there is something off about the drape. Lauren Henline, who is a seamstress, noticed that the back of the shoulder seemed... ill-balanced.

    The lapels are much too modern for my taste. I prefer the straighter lapels on a vintage double breasted... but that's just me.

    We are talking about the Washington Double Breasted, right?
    I think I've seen lapels similar to that on a 1930's German suit...


    Robert Conway

  9. #9
    One Too Many Vladimir Berkov's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andykev
    I looked at the pics of the double breasted...and the pics were not that good. I hope the suit is better looking in person. I like the style, but something just doesn't look right. Does anyone else feel that way?
    Same here. The balance and silhouette is all off.

  10. #10
    Distinguished Service Award Lauren's Avatar
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    Yup. Me too.
    http://wearinghistoryblog.com
    "...be transformed by the renewing of your mind." Romans 12:2

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