I'm new to the forum and Philalethes was kind enough to point me to this discussion since I have one on order with HPA and own the buffalo-hide jacket by Buzz from 2010. I posted my opinions on the 2010 jacket yesterday under this thread: Question about Buzz Rickson 30s/40s Leather Flying Jacket.
My new jacket should be arriving soon. The 2010 style has become my favorite go-to jacket since I bought it last fall, and when I previewed the new model in March, I immediately ordered it in brown, but I'm actually sick enough to consider getting both brown and black. Once I get the brown jacket I'll decide on how far to go, or I may just ask HPA to send both on the strong chance I'll keep both.
I have a copy of 2011 Buzz catalog and agree that there are some nice items, but based on the 2010 buffalo-hide jacket, I'd say the 2011 model is the best thing in the catalog. On the one hand, I think the photos in the catalog are an improvement from prior years, but on the other hand, I find the HPA web photos now up to be consistently better than the catalog photos, which I'm critiquing based on lighting and clarity.
My understanding is that the Aviation Transport Coat and the USCG Coat are both styles Buzz designed based on various original jackets they own, thus they are not meant to be exact copies of any one given jacket, which is perfectly fine by me when you are making items that aren't military-contract goods. The names Buzz gives certain styles sometimes strike me as odd, too, which I think is a Japanese thing, really. HPA is calling the USCG Coat a 1930's & 1940's Aviation & Motoring Jacket and marketing it as such; this crossbred appeal I personally like and think makes more sense and has better
Well, that's enough of my opinion for now.
One of the Regulars
That's possibly the best explanation I've read about the names; different names for different markets definitely makes sense, and maybe something suggestive of a US military, though fictional, heritage, has more appeal in Japan.
Originally Posted by chip
Those Aviation&Motoring coats, both single and double breasted, are really good looking; well nobody asked my opinion, but I'd rather do without the zippered little pockets, in order to achieve a cleaner look;
nonetheless, I'll buy one today, if only I had the money!
I am getting closer to pulling the trigger on the brown buffalo hide coat. Back in the 80's I had a buffalo hide mall "bomber" jacket that I just loved because of the hide. Unfortunately, I out grew it (well, at least a part of me out grew it, LOL).
Chip, what size is your 2010 version?
Originally Posted by sbhva
My 2010 version is a size 40 and my 2011 order is for the same size based on what HPA advised. In Eastman jackets I'm always a 40 and they usually measure 46" in the chest circumference, whereas I'm also a 40 in most Buzz jackets but their leather jackets in this size tend to measure 44" in the chest. Due to the way Buzz cuts the armhole, shoulder slope and high-point shoulder, this trimmer chest sizing works, but I could never wear a leather Eastman jacket that measures 44" in the chest (typically their size 38's) due to how they cut their jackets in the aforementioned areas. Also please keep in mind that the Buzz jacket gets 1" longer per size in the sleeve and body length as you go up the size scale.
Whatever you choose to do, I strongly advise anyone to purchase the most fabulous item they absolutely love and can afford vs. cutting corners and getting something they feel more comfortable in purchasing but that's not what they'd really love to have. For me, it's better to have just one fabulous piece that will never become stale and that you'll feel great about wearing year after year without wishing you'd made that stretch and bought something else. I recognize not everyone can afford the luxury of such a piece, but if you can afford a $500 jacket, you can afford this, though you may have to save a bit or work custom payment terms with the merchant.
Anyway, the aniline-dyed shrunken buffalo used by Buzz is the best I've ever seen - it just exudes vintage luxury, durability and quality. Tomorrow I need to decide if I'm going for both colors in the new model or getting just the brown version and maybe that Buzz A-2 HPA just brought in this year. They also have some special "Great Escape" Depot-Re-Dyed A-2 from Buzz that I'm juiced to see photos of, which sounds like another obsessive work from the fanatics in Japan. ;-)
If you need any measures, Steve, please let me know, but if you want the inside scoop on any of these jackets, speak with my long-time pal, Charlie, at HPA; he knows wayyyy more than I do. Good luck!
I particularly like the look of the Aircraft Transport in olive, must resist.
I like them all except the coast guard jacket, which while impressive, is more like a grotesque sculpture than a jacket, too much stuff going on. Overwhelming.
Originally Posted by Philalethes
Buzz Rickson's budget division, United Carr - has a decent selection of outwear at more reasonable prices. It won't be top of the line but unless authenticity is your obsession, it will do for practical everyday wear.