My New Bespoke Gray Flannels - Pictures! - What Do You Think?

[A.C. Lyles]

What does Nicola charge for CMT?

[Rudie]

I guess your only chance for premium quality cream coloured flannel is either lightweight (Holland & Sherry have 10oz. or something like that) or having a mill weave it specially for you. You'd have to commission at least 60 meters, though. I'm not sure how high the demand is, but you could ask people here or at London Lounge who would be interested. If you manage to get enough people to order this should make for a very good price because there's no middle man. Maybe Pendleton still make cream coloured flannel in a heavier weight?

[Rudie]

What does Nicola charge for CMT?

What's CMT?

[A.C. Lyles]

What's CMT?

When a customer supplies their 'own goods' the service the tailor provides in making up the garment is called CMT (Cut Make Trim).

[A.C. Lyles]

Hey A.C., in case you failed to notice, the trousers don't have a waistband.

Then what do you call that band of fabric sewn to the waist?

[Rudie]

Thanks. I'm sure it's called differently in Germany, though I don't know how.

Actually, it's ridiculously cheap considering she does full bespoke (No hand stitching, though. But you wouldn't expect that for the price, I'm sure.). She just raised her price to 140 Euros.

[Rudie]

Well, if the waistband is the lining inside the trousers I don't see how it could be much too busy for your taste. There aren't even suspender buttons there. All that stuff is on the outside.

[A.C. Lyles]

Actually, it's ridiculously cheap considering she does full bespoke (No hand stitching, though. But you wouldn't expect that for the price, I'm sure.). She just raised her price to 140 Euros.

I know an excellent trouser maker in NYC who charges around 85 € for CMT. He works out of his home which keeps overhead down.

[Rudie]

She has a very small workroom, no fancy stuff but a low rent. But even so, I think her prices are very reasonable. The trouser maker you know must crank 'em out at lightning speed to make any profit, even working from his home.

[A.C. Lyles]

Well, if the waistband is the lining inside the trousers I don't see how it could be much too busy for your taste. There aren't even suspender buttons there. All that stuff is on the outside.

Funny thing Rudie, I actually paused for a moment before typing the word band thinking that there may be a pedant out there who would take me to task and here you are, Well Done! I'll just take it as your tacit agreement to the points I brought up about the practicality of the belt/braces combo setup.