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Thread: Searching for someone to reblock my hat.

  1. #1
    Familiar Face Erehwon's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Searching for someone to reblock my hat.

    Hi,

    my problem is, that hatblocks, if you find any 59 cm (7 3/8 inch) on ebay are much much expensive, whether they are dirty, old or new. I've got an Christys hat, which needs to be reblocked, but to block it by a hatter would cost more then the whole hat.

    I recognized, that not all of you come from USA, so i wanted to ask if someone near germany or in germany has a hatblock and would reblock my hat for 20€ or whatever. The lining and the grosgrain ribbon would be removed by me before.

    By the way: i asked a hatter here in my town to block my head. She said, she can't do it because she doesn't have the original Christys hatblock. But i guess, you can use other Hatblocks in the same size as well?


    Photo for you to see: it tapered a little bit in front and back.



    Greetings
    Last edited by Erehwon; 03-03-2012 at 03:39 AM.

  2. #2
    One Too Many job's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about one of these. http://www.hatshapers.com/Product%20Pages/Quickview.htm
    I believe it is recommended to get one a size small if the sweatband is staying in while blocking.
    Last edited by job; 03-03-2012 at 08:40 AM.
    John,


    No matter where you are.....That's the place to be.

  3. #3
    Practically Family jbucklin's Avatar
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    I second the recommendation on the hatshaper. The straight-sided dome they offer would work perfectly for that hat. I ordered the 23" size and I too am a 7 3/8 (23").
    Last edited by jbucklin; 03-03-2012 at 10:00 AM.

  4. #4
    I'll Lock Up scottyrocks's Avatar
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    You can put almost any hat on almost any block. The main exception to this is the small-shaped hat on a large block. It could work, though, if you don't pull the hat body all the way down to the bottom of the block. Try to get a block that's about the same size as your hat. I also recommend getting a domed block, not one with a crease already molded or carved into it, but I like to shape my hats my hats by hand, and don't care for the pre-creased teardrops so rampant from today's manufacturers.
    'There is a fine line between art and fondling.'
    - J.H.P.

  5. #5
    Practically Family TipTop's Avatar
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    As one who spent the afternoon yesterday reshaping for the first time, tall western crowns to slightly lower ones, I am ready for some help. These buy-a-crease forms seem like a good idea, but I think I'd rather go to an open dome and work from there by hand. My problem is I don't know which steps or creases come first and are followed by what procedure (more steam, cooling, crimping, stretching, etc.). Any of you successful re-bashers wanna produce a video on this?
    Cheers,
    Ray

  6. #6
    Familiar Face Erehwon's Avatar
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    I never heard of these hatshapers. Look nice! Thank you guys, i try the one in 23'' for my 7 3/8''.

  7. #7
    One of the Regulars
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erehwon View Post
    I never heard of these hatshapers. Look nice! Thank you guys, i try the one in 23'' for my 7 3/8''.
    You will need a bigger block than 23" to compensate for the sweatband.

  8. #8
    I'll Lock Up
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    On the rare occasion that I block a hat with the sweatband on, I use a block either half a size or one full size smaller.
    Aureliano-

    Domingo, ponte el sombrero y vamos.

  9. #9
    I'll Lock Up scottyrocks's Avatar
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    Not me. I use the proper sized block and fold the sweat band down and out of the hat. The block is built to compensate for a sweat band being sewn in and making the hat 'smaller' than the block, but back to it's accurate size. I want to block the felt, not the sweat band.
    'There is a fine line between art and fondling.'
    - J.H.P.

  10. #10
    I'll Lock Up scottyrocks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipTop View Post
    As one who spent the afternoon yesterday reshaping for the first time, tall western crowns to slightly lower ones, I am ready for some help. These buy-a-crease forms seem like a good idea, but I think I'd rather go to an open dome and work from there by hand. My problem is I don't know which steps or creases come first and are followed by what procedure (more steam, cooling, crimping, stretching, etc.). Any of you successful re-bashers wanna produce a video on this?
    On a new hat that I'm shaping for the first time, I get an idea of what I want it to look like dry-creasing it, but not as sharply as it will be when it's finished. Then I spray it with water and start working on it. This gives me time to crease it the way I like without having to re-steam. Also, water doesn't present the danger of shrinkage that hot steam does if you overdo it.

    I'll usually reshape a hat at night so it has time to dry before I wear it the next day.
    'There is a fine line between art and fondling.'
    - J.H.P.

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