Personally I don't care for it on suit. My preference is for a strong shoulder, a structured front, and a defined waist. But I do agree that it would look good on workwear.Originally Posted by herringbonekid
Personally I don't care for it on suit. My preference is for a strong shoulder, a structured front, and a defined waist. But I do agree that it would look good on workwear.
Monocle: This may be worn by (1) good dukes, (2) all Englishmen. No bad man may wear a monocle. ~P. G. Wodehouse
This.
But as far as I understand you already got that covered so you need something new before you get bored? In general I also don't like elbow patches or narrow trousers. But they fit to your style and look great on your suits.Give it a try.
Is this similar to the shoulder that would have been common on those 1910s and 20s suit jackets that have a unpadded natural shoulder?
Would the shoulder on this jacket be one of these?
It is one of those belted action back sportcoats from Crittenden:
"As a kid, I used to abide by the judgment of Brooks Brothers in New York. I think I'm away from that now."
-Fred Astaire
that's what i'd like to know too; how common it was in the past.
your jacket looks like it has a shirt shoulder but machine topstitched all around (possibly a flat-felled seam like a shirt) which is the usual shop / workwear jacket way, rather than the hand stitched (just over the top of the shoulder) bespoke way.
most vintage trouser pockets are finished on the seam. that is; they follow the straight line of the side seam like this:
some, but far fewer, slant forwards away from the side seam. this pocket actually makes more sense because less strain is put on the top corner when you put your hands in:
suppose you don't like the look of the exposed side seam above ? some trousers have a forward slanting pocket, but the seam follows it; the seam is straight until it hits the bottom of the pocket then it slants forward. this seems to be the least common option. out of all of my vintage suits and odd trousers only 2 pairs are cut like this:
here's a vertical line to show where the straight side seam would have been:
Anderson and Sheppard still do this style of pocket, as they see it as the cleaner finish:
if you check your vintage trousers you'll probably find this type of pocket is the rarest.
Last edited by herringbonekid; 06-22-2012 at 06:29 AM.
Where do double-jetted side pockets fall in this scale? Are they more common on odd trousers?
Monocle: This may be worn by (1) good dukes, (2) all Englishmen. No bad man may wear a monocle. ~P. G. Wodehouse
most common on German trousers, both suit and odd. i don't think i've ever seen a British example on a suit trouser, only on some jodhpurs / plus fours.
Sounds correct. German trousers are the only ones I've seen so far with this kind of pocket. Rudie has them on one of the trousers he commissioned.
BTW: Some time ago I've found a nice tutorial on jetted pockets over at Ask Andy:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...-Darren-Beaman
Pretend that you owe me nothing and all the world is green.
see... dead easy !
It looks like on the photo I posted from Magnoli the long seams aren't pressed open to give a smoother finish. The tutorial you posted shows them being pressed open, which gives the flat transition into the jet.
Monocle: This may be worn by (1) good dukes, (2) all Englishmen. No bad man may wear a monocle. ~P. G. Wodehouse
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