The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[herringbonekid]

... That's marvellous! Would you do commission work?

thanks ! please see this thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showt...=1#post1437048


gents, thanks for the compliments, but can i be clear that the idea for starting this thread is to discuss the geeky stuff; how suits are made, the details, the construction, the working methods etc. i want to see discussions about buttonhole angles, waistband lining, collar canvas... the geekier the better, as long as it's about tailoring techniques !

[herringbonekid]

I like the idea of cutting the whole pleat in one with the back, but I can see how that would make layout difficult. Since the pleat would probably be top-stitched on the inside anyway to keep everything in place, it's probably just more economical to add the pleat section.

Nick, i found that using the whole pleat method, the section near the body (the hidden piece) ended up leaning outward (i.e. no longer on the straight grain).
therefore it was necessary to cut it separately in order to realign it to match the pattern.

[Mario]

here is one made by myself:

Thank you so much for the photos. I'm almost at a loss for words at the moment - and deeply impressed by your workmanship. This looks extremely well done.

[dakotanorth]

I'm still debating this trick of the trade, but I was told that when you want to permanently set a crease in wool, you soak a string/floss/wire (as in, fishing wire) in rubbing alcohol, place it inside the fabric, then fold the fabric over it. When you press the fabric, it pushes the alcohol into the fold line and sets it.
Can anyone confirm or deny this? Vinegar does NOT work, despite what everyone says.

Herringbone Kid: Nice! Do you use an attachment to feed the binding, or do you place/baste it by hand?

[Nick D]

Nick, i found that using the whole pleat method, the section near the body (the hidden piece) ended up leaning outward (i.e. no longer on the straight grain).
therefore it was necessary to cut it separately in order to realign it to match the pattern.

Could cutting it in two pieces also allow the tailor to include a bit of curve, to follow the shoulder and back? They usually look straight in photos, but being set at the right angle might do it. I've only seen a couple drafts with action shoulders and both have them cut-on, so I can't speak for drafts with them sewn on.

[Qirrel]

Could cutting it in two pieces also allow the tailor to include a bit of curve, to follow the shoulder and back? They usually look straight in photos, but being set at the right angle might do it. I've only seen a couple drafts with action shoulders and both have them cut-on, so I can't speak for drafts with them sewn on.

The main motivation for a sewn on/two piece pleat would be to conserve fabric. And, as you say, if you want it to curve into the sideseam rather than have it go straight down to the belt, it would be better to have it in two pieces. It would waste fabric if it is grown on.

[herringbonekid]

Could cutting it in two pieces also allow the tailor to include a bit of curve, to follow the shoulder and back? They usually look straight in photos, but being set at the right angle might do it. I've only seen a couple drafts with action shoulders and both have them cut-on, so I can't speak for drafts with them sewn on.

i'm not sure if curving the outer fold would impair the 'action' but it might.
by the way i also think that the cut piece functions better as the stiffer bias-bound edge snaps the whole thing back into place more firmly when it's been expanded out.

this jacket had the simpler folded method, no top stitching at all, and it didn't function so well:



mind you, fabric is also important. i wouldn't attempt it on any fabric that didn't have quite a bit of body to it. the sort of firm fabric that remembers its shape.
anything puddly such as super 120s and up wouldn't work.

[Qirrel]

It was common to put in elastic tape to keep the pleats neat when the fabric was unruly. With elastic, a 120s ++ would work just fine; without you would need to press the pleat quite often.

[herringbonekid]

It was common to put in elastic tape to keep the pleats neat when the fabric was unruly.

do you have any diagrams or photos of that ?

[herringbonekid]

Do you use an attachment to feed the binding, or do you place/baste it by hand?

i've tried one but found it didn't help that much, and sometimes pieces of a raw edge were too thick to go through it, such as where the belt joins the side seam.