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Thread: New Good Wear Leather A-1 (size 46) - early 1920s pattern

  1. #1
    One Too Many Dr H's Avatar
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    New Good Wear Leather A-1 (size 46) - early 1920s pattern




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    Here is my latest jacket (a capeskin A-1 by Good Wear Leather).

    John Chapman bounced over some images of a recent A-1 test jacket that he had produced and, despite the figuring of the recent capeskin, I was really won over by the detailing.

    There are several generic A-1 patterns that tend to come up in the period photos (not as well documented as later WW2 jackets), but the ones that have consistently appealed to me are the early 1920s versions with buttons to the lower waistband and pockets sitting more closely to the central line.

    Although it's not always that clear from the period photos, the collar knit is less fussy with a single button fastening as you see here, rather than the more common two buttons. The knits are tailored from the more golden coloured wool and complement the hide/pattern well in my view.

    The sleeves have the triple stitched, raw edged seams that John habitually uses.





    For comparison, check out the images of the more conventional, production version (http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages...1_images1.html).

    It's a very comfortable jacket in use and the grain is already beginning to become less pronounced with wear.

  2. #2
    One Too Many Fanch's Avatar
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    Fantastic looking jacket. Don't see how the fit could possibly be improved.

  3. #3
    Practically Family Ishmael's Avatar
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    That's perfect.

  4. #4
    One Too Many Dr H's Avatar
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    Thanks Fanch - that's John in the images so the fit of the test jacket is 100%.
    For me it's 95% (I need to have the sleeves tailored slightly to fit my shorter arms), but otherwise it fits equally well.
    This is the fourth GW A-1 jacket that I've owned (along with three ELC A-1s) and, although the hide is not quite as good as the earlier domestic cape from 2008, the pattern has constantly improved and this is the truest to period images.
    For me, the cape that ELC uses is superior, but their pattern is just a little more bland. Not poor (I'm on the lookout for another ELC now as a project), but just lacking a little individuality.
    Last edited by Dr H; 12-28-2012 at 03:45 PM.

  5. #5
    Practically Family Cooperson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fanch View Post
    Fantastic looking jacket. Don't see how the fit could possibly be improved.
    Yes, it fits Mr Chapman very well Very nice A-1 by the way, love the grain on it!

  6. #6
    Familiar Face Todd V's Avatar
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    Yes! Very nice jacket. If I ever got another the A-1 might be it. So, these are worn with the collar down, not up?

  7. #7
    One Too Many Dr H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd V View Post
    Yes! Very nice jacket. If I ever got another the A-1 might be it. So, these are worn with the collar down, not up?
    Yes, typically down with a couple of buttons undone, although the knit it is thick enough to sit upright and can be fastened in cold/wet weather. The collar knit was originally designed to be a snug fit in a draughty open cockpit, but on the ground was worn with uniform/shirt/tie.

  8. #8
    One Too Many
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    A beautiful jacket

  9. #9
    One Too Many Joel Shapiro's Avatar
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    I like the pattern better than the leather. Having handled this leather, I can tell you it's very thin, almost sheer and stretches too easily for my taste. I wonder what other leather would be good for this jacket? Goatskin? Horsehide? Because the pattern is stunning and unique.

  10. #10
    One of the Regulars
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    The jacket is superb!!!

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