1930's Doublebreasted vs. modern

The Mad Hatter · 12-27-2004, 12:00 PM

Polo by Ralph Lauren makes double-breasted blazers that look, to me, like what you would call old-style:

Bogie1943 · 12-27-2004, 02:18 PM

Funny, Matt and I were having a conversation along these same lines just last night. Modern suits in no way compare to the world of vintage. Modern tailors know little of what they are really doing and it shows in the clothes they produce. I have to say that Ralph Lauren is one of the only people today that really comes close to making it happen. His Polo Golf line is a very vintage inspired line of modern clothing. Still even that does not measure up to a true vintage piece. Sometimes I wonder what the heck tailors today are thinking, suits are cut way too big, in all the wrong places. The patterns, for the most part are crap, and polyester is the devil in my book. In the Golden Era, they knew what they were doing. They knew how a suit should look, pattern wise. They knew how a suit should fit a man, cut wise. Best of all, wool was the great fabric of the day, and the evil polyester did not exist, thank the lord. Today, you can thank the 60's, 70's, and 80's for the big demise in fine everyday attire. I feel that most of the world has become a bit sloppy and lazy when it comes to clothes and most other things. I just wish we would all come out of this 30 + year hiatus in style and wake up.

Canadave · 12-28-2004, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Deckard

...Modern ones are usually sold with the lapel still stitched to the collar...

I can't figure out what you mean by this, Matt. Could you please explain? Thanks.

Hoping I'm not an idiot,

David

BellyTank · 12-29-2004, 03:18 PM

No idiot Dave- Think of the collar as the part that goes behind your neck and around- then as you come down the front and there's the "split" then the lapels. The "Split" is sometimes sewn closed, illustrating the closeness or lack of gap between the two- just as the pockets are sometimes sewn closed- this maintains "finish" during packing. storage, transport and handling. A minor point.
Merry Jesus by the way-
BT.

Matt Deckard · 01-09-2005, 03:53 PM

I'm almost ready to start wearing my DB jackets... almost, just a few more pounds.

Matt Deckard · 01-10-2005, 04:49 PM

So it's a bit tight...
He's filthy rich!

Wild Root · 01-10-2005, 08:24 PM

Ah the young Howard Hughes! He looks sharp there! One thing I have noticed many times is that in the 20’s 30’s and even in the 40’s some men wore their coats a little on the tight side. Also a bit on the short side! I have seen some photos of taller men and by today’s eye would say: That man’s coat is to short! Well, it was hard for tall men to buy a suit that fit them even back then! I tend to wear my coats a little short so I get the correct look and show a little more cuff.

The double breasted suit of the 30’s and 40’s is really one of my favorite looks! To me, it’s the classiest look and one that really shouts 1940’s! I have some single breasted suits that are nice and I love them, but most people that see me wear them say: Hey, you’re wearing a new suit! I look at them like they are seriously smoking some strong stuff and say: Ummmm, they had single breasted suits in the 40’s too you know. Then I tell them to beat it before I have to slap them for being so stupid! Ahahahahaha J/K!

When I bought my first vintage suit, it was dated 1942 and it was double breasted. I could tell right off the bat that it was different and special then any off the rack suit I have ever seen in any department store! True, the Ralph Lauren stuff is good and I would have to agree that it’s the best modern off the rack stuff out there right now. But, as Bogie said it, you can’t beat vintage craftsmanship, fabric and style!!! I say that if they started to make pants higher waisted like they should be then the whole suit would look way better. Pants need to drape right off the hip and have a full cut. Today’s slacks seem to have pleats that disappear some where in the thigh area on the way down.

Any way, that’s enough out of me on this subject for now.

Root.

Fuente · 01-11-2005, 06:55 AM

Peak Lapel Jackets vary in many ways.

Button number and stance: 2 button 1 to button, 4 button 1 to button, 4 button 2 to button, 6 button 1 to button, 6 button 2 to button and 6 button 3 to button.

Lapel angle: notice the lapel on some of the top photos and you will see the lapels are almost horizontal to the floor. The lapels on the Bing Crosby photo and some more modern e.g. Prince Charles and Letterman have a more upward sweep.

The top collar: it will vary to accomodate the shape and angle of the lapel.

The other most evident difference is the shape of the lapel from the button to the peak. Some run as a straight line while others have a more curved line known as belly to the lapel.

In every era there have been these differences depending on individual style and the tailors input.

Rich

12-27-2004, 02:18 PM	#2
Bogie1943 Practically Family Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Ohio Posts: 592	How Odd Funny, Matt and I were having a conversation along these same lines just last night. Modern suits in no way compare to the world of vintage. Modern tailors know little of what they are really doing and it shows in the clothes they produce. I have to say that Ralph Lauren is one of the only people today that really comes close to making it happen. His Polo Golf line is a very vintage inspired line of modern clothing. Still even that does not measure up to a true vintage piece. Sometimes I wonder what the heck tailors today are thinking, suits are cut way too big, in all the wrong places. The patterns, for the most part are crap, and polyester is the devil in my book. In the Golden Era, they knew what they were doing. They knew how a suit should look, pattern wise. They knew how a suit should fit a man, cut wise. Best of all, wool was the great fabric of the day, and the evil polyester did not exist, thank the lord. Today, you can thank the 60's, 70's, and 80's for the big demise in fine everyday attire. I feel that most of the world has become a bit sloppy and lazy when it comes to clothes and most other things. I just wish we would all come out of this 30 + year hiatus in style and wake up. __________________ Highest Regards, Josh "I stick my neck out for nobody." Out of the Humidor

01-09-2005, 03:53 PM	#5
Matt Deckard Bartender Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: A devout capitalist in Rosemead CA. Posts: 8,624	I'm almost ready to start wearing my DB jackets... almost, just a few more pounds. __________________ Matt Deckard Apparel Deckard's Guide Looking for my Emma Peel. END OF LINE

01-10-2005, 04:49 PM	#6
Matt Deckard Bartender Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: A devout capitalist in Rosemead CA. Posts: 8,624	So it's a bit tight... He's filthy rich! __________________ Matt Deckard Apparel Deckard's Guide Looking for my Emma Peel. END OF LINE

01-10-2005, 08:24 PM	#7
Wild Root Gone Home Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Monrovia California. Posts: 5,590	Ah the young Howard Hughes! He looks sharp there! One thing I have noticed many times is that in the 20’s 30’s and even in the 40’s some men wore their coats a little on the tight side. Also a bit on the short side! I have seen some photos of taller men and by today’s eye would say: That man’s coat is to short! Well, it was hard for tall men to buy a suit that fit them even back then! I tend to wear my coats a little short so I get the correct look and show a little more cuff. The double breasted suit of the 30’s and 40’s is really one of my favorite looks! To me, it’s the classiest look and one that really shouts 1940’s! I have some single breasted suits that are nice and I love them, but most people that see me wear them say: Hey, you’re wearing a new suit! I look at them like they are seriously smoking some strong stuff and say: Ummmm, they had single breasted suits in the 40’s too you know. Then I tell them to beat it before I have to slap them for being so stupid! Ahahahahaha J/K! When I bought my first vintage suit, it was dated 1942 and it was double breasted. I could tell right off the bat that it was different and special then any off the rack suit I have ever seen in any department store! True, the Ralph Lauren stuff is good and I would have to agree that it’s the best modern off the rack stuff out there right now. But, as Bogie said it, you can’t beat vintage craftsmanship, fabric and style!!! I say that if they started to make pants higher waisted like they should be then the whole suit would look way better. Pants need to drape right off the hip and have a full cut. Today’s slacks seem to have pleats that disappear some where in the thigh area on the way down. Any way, that’s enough out of me on this subject for now. Root. __________________ Wrong is wrong even if every one says it's right. Right is right even if every one else says it's wrong. -Hugh Beaumont

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12-27-2004, 12:00 PM	#1
The Mad Hatter "A" List Customer Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 304	Polo by Ralph Lauren makes double-breasted blazers that look, to me, like what you would call old-style:

12-29-2004, 03:18 PM	#4
BellyTank I'll Lock Up Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Scandinavia/Empire, Neighbour of the Beast. Posts: 6,579	No idiot Dave- Think of the collar as the part that goes behind your neck and around- then as you come down the front and there's the "split" then the lapels. The "Split" is sometimes sewn closed, illustrating the closeness or lack of gap between the two- just as the pockets are sometimes sewn closed- this maintains "finish" during packing. storage, transport and handling. A minor point. Merry Jesus by the way- BT.

01-11-2005, 06:55 AM	#8
Fuente Familar Face Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 58	Peak Lapel Jackets vary in many ways. Button number and stance: 2 button 1 to button, 4 button 1 to button, 4 button 2 to button, 6 button 1 to button, 6 button 2 to button and 6 button 3 to button. Lapel angle: notice the lapel on some of the top photos and you will see the lapels are almost horizontal to the floor. The lapels on the Bing Crosby photo and some more modern e.g. Prince Charles and Letterman have a more upward sweep. The top collar: it will vary to accomodate the shape and angle of the lapel. The other most evident difference is the shape of the lapel from the button to the peak. Some run as a straight line while others have a more curved line known as belly to the lapel. In every era there have been these differences depending on individual style and the tailors input. Rich