VINTAGE FEDORA'S WHO'S BEST ?

[SHARPETOYS]

On vintage hats which is the years you should try to find?Before the 1930's, 1940's etc???.Which hat brand seem to be the best.I think i would like to get a vintage Borasalino.I need help i'm just learning about felt fedora's
Thanks,Roger

[Matt Deckard]

There were alot of hatmakers around in the 30's and 40's it is hard to say who made the best hats. some of the off the wall boutique names from that era often have great quality felt--sometimes they are cheap junk. quality ran the gammit back then like it does now. Though the good stuff back then was cheaper and sold everywhere.

Borsalino has a great reputation for being the hat that many movie stars wore in the 30's. their felts were great and alot of them were made to be rolled up and traveled with. Though my choice for a better hat would be Stetson. Back then Borsalino was just an imported hat. Stetson was the best you could buy. They had hats that were low quality and hats that were high quality. The hats that were high quality... well they are magnificant and from what I have been told handled the weather better than Borsalinos (even though most hats back then were built like tanks and could take great punnishment).

Cavenaugh: is another brand that made amazing quality hats. I owned one and lost it, but if you see one your size, snap it up. I have yet to see a poor quality one. they are the inventor of the Cavenaugh edge... check out the brown Borsalino I posted and you will see what I mean.

Lee: has a reputation for using a special water blocking process. Their hats used to be shown rolled up in ads from the 40's and 50's. these are premo for handling the weather... the felt may feel cheap if you are to feel it, but that is a misnomer.

Here are some of the other good hatmakers.

Adam: made a pretty good hat, and their finish was super smooth (murcury process).
Disney (not Walt Disney)
Mallory
Dobbs
Resistol (Kitten finish was their trademark. Done with mercury)

[Chamorro]

Was Kitten Finish a trademark or just a common name for that type of felt? My Bullocks Wilshire hat, made by New Era, is a Kitten Finish.

[Matt Deckard]

Kitten finish was invented by Resistol and last I saw was a registered trademark.

It was an innovation in the finish. not just smooth, but with a bit of a nap. I have a Homburg from Resistol with a kitten finish.

By the by, Resistol's name was meant to put forth the notion that they were weather resistant.

[Chamorro]

My sweatband, before I had Optimo change it out, said "Kitten Finish, TM."

Maybe New Era was owned by Resistol?

[Matt Deckard]

You will have to show me this New Era hat.

[fedoralover]

Matt: what about the vintage Knox fedora's? Although most of the ones I've seen are stingy brims which I don't particularly care for, occasionally I see one with a wider brim. I just bought one that is brown with a very heavy red tint in it.

fedoralover

[Matt Deckard]

I have a Knox 20 with bit of a wider brim and a Cavenaugh edge. The felt is what could be called a heavy weight and the hat is (I believe) 50's.

I am not as clear about their history, but the ones I find from them usually have a stingy brim as you say leading me to believe that the company was very big in the 50's and 60's.

The ones I have seen are made of really nice felt. From what some of the guys I know on the vintage scene tell me, Knox used to be a very high quality boutique hat in the 40's that you would find at high end mens stores. Then later on became more main stream.

I could be wrong on this but I will post more when I learn more.

[Fedora]

Along the same topic. A book, the history of the Stetson just sold on ebay for 31.00 I was going to bid on it, but waited too long to do so. I bet it contained a wealth of info on the Stetson brand, as well as dating methods. I will keep my eye on ebay for another one. Anybody here buy it? Fedora

[Maj.Nick Danger]

But back to the original subject of this thread, which is interesting, I have always been attracted to hats made by Mallory. But it seems they were maybe a smaller company that did not produce many hats as I have never seen one for sale online. Anybody own one? If so what do you think of it?[/color][/size][/font]

[feltfan]

Originally Posted by Maj.Nick Danger

But back to the original subject of this thread, whichis interesting, I have always been attracted to hats made by Mallory. But it seems they were maybe a smaller company that did not produce many hats as I have never seen one for sale online. Anybody own one? If so what do you think of it?

I think Mallory was relatively large. I own at least five off the
top of my head (so to speak). Two "Aristocrat Quality", two
"Premier", and a derby that fits like a glove. I love their full,
quintessentially American styling and rugged construction.

The Aristocrats are lower quality. As is the case with a lot
of these companies, the older one, a 30s or 40s blue "Coast-to-Coast"
is one of my favorites, but the later one,
which I'd date to the late 50s, a green fedora, is
only okay (but still nicer than any factory hat today).

I'd buy any Premier I see in my size. As was discussed elsewhere
(we have had a few discussions about Mallorys on this site), they
used more than one type of felt, one thicker and one thinner. I have
one of each, both purchased on eBay if I remember correctly.
They are very different hats. One is in the Open Road/Stratoliner
style (and happy to take either form, having arrived open crown)
and the other a simple fedora. Both have outstanding felt in
completely different thickness and style.

As I recall, Mallory was purchased by Stetson a while back
(I think jamespowers has some reason to believe quite early)
and started colabeling their hats "Mallory by Stetson" in the 60s.
Those hats don't appear to be much good, though I don't know for sure.

As I recall wildroot likes Mallorys and may be able to add to this.

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Now I've got another quest to go on.

[Fedora]

To the original question, I prefer hats made prior to 1947. Why? The carroting was done, using mercury. As far as I know, this was the best substance to use, as it yielded a "feel" that was exceptional, even on rabbit hats. On a related note, the prostitutes of the old west used the same stuff, mercurial nitrate on their eyelashes! The action of this stuff on hair caused the fibers to swell up, thereby giving a thicker appearance to the lashes. It affected the fur used for hats, in the same manner. It made the fur, even softer, which gave the hats of that era a particular feel, that has not been replicated since. But this was an attractive side effect, as the original use of mercury revolved around the fact that it raised the barbs on the fur the best of anything discovered, and still does. Not only did it pop up the barbs to the max, it also puffed the fur up like popcorn. A superiour felted hat composed of fur that was actually changed from its original state. I am not sure, but I think the rest of the world kept using mercury for years, as the ban was only in the USA-I think. Perhaps someone here knows. Fedora

[Rick Blaine]

Originally Posted by Fedora

To the original question, I prefer hats made prior to 1947. Why? The carroting was done, using mercury. As far as I know, this was the best substance to use, as it yielded a "feel" that was exceptional, even on rabbit hats. On a related note, the prostitutes of the old west used the same stuff, mercurial nitrate on their eyelashes! The action of this stuff on hair caused the fibers to swell up, thereby giving a thicker appearance to the lashes. It affected the fur used for hats, in the same manner. It made the fur, even softer, which gave the hats of that era a particular feel, that has not been replicated since. But this was an attractive side effect, as the original use of mercury revolved around the fact that it raised the barbs on the fur the best of anything discovered, and still does. Not only did it pop up the barbs to the max, it also puffed the fur up like popcorn. A superiour felted hat composed of fur that was actually changed from its original state. I am not sure, but I think the rest of the world kept using mercury for years, as the ban was only in the USA-I think. Perhaps someone here knows. Fedora

many thanks!

Originally Posted by Maj.Nick Danger

Just what exactly is all this???

A very interesting way to invigorate an old thread.

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Originally Posted by Samsa

A very interesting way to invigorate an old thread.

Yeah, I suppose you're right.

[ledsled]

Originally Posted by Fedora

To the original question, I prefer hats made prior to 1947. Why? The carroting was done, using mercury. As far as I know, this was the best substance to use, as it yielded a "feel" that was exceptional, even on rabbit hats. On a related note, the prostitutes of the old west used the same stuff, mercurial nitrate on their eyelashes! The action of this stuff on hair caused the fibers to swell up, thereby giving a thicker appearance to the lashes. It affected the fur used for hats, in the same manner. It made the fur, even softer, which gave the hats of that era a particular feel, that has not been replicated since. But this was an attractive side effect, as the original use of mercury revolved around the fact that it raised the barbs on the fur the best of anything discovered, and still does. Not only did it pop up the barbs to the max, it also puffed the fur up like popcorn. A superiour felted hat composed of fur that was actually changed from its original state. I am not sure, but I think the rest of the world kept using mercury for years, as the ban was only in the USA-I think. Perhaps someone here knows. Fedora

Fascinating information Fedora! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. This may be a stupid question, but is mercurial nitrate different than mercury? I remember playing with mercury in the late 50's, so I was wondering about the 1947 date for mercurial nitrate being outlawed in the US.... and if that did not apply to mercury? I often wonder what happened to my cherished supply of mercury. Perhaps I could trace my intellectual shortcomings back to playing with mercury!

[Rick Blaine]

Originally Posted by ledsled

Fascinating information Fedora! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. This may be a stupid question, but is mercurial nitrate different than mercury? I remember playing with mercury in the late 50's, so I was wondering about the 1947 date for mercurial nitrate being outlawed in the US.... and if that did not apply to mercury? I often wonder what happened to my cherished supply of mercury. Perhaps I could trace my intellectual shortcomings back to playing with mercury!

I can remember passing mecury from hand to hand around a science classroom, under the supervision of the teacher! DUH...

[Wild Root]

Coming in late here but, I saw Knox mentioned and wanted to mention something that I know about them.

I have seen many ads for Knox hats from the late 20's and early 30's. They were a high priced hat shop and made very fine hats! I have a 40's Knox and it has a nice brim on it. I did meet a man once on the street who had a very nice late 30's fedora on... I asked him what make it was... he had to look at the liner... he told me it was a Knox! I was dumbfounded because it had such a rather wide brim and tall crown!

The early Knox hats are hard to come by but, they are very nice hats if you find one!

My self, I love Stetson and Mallory! My Mallory's are near and dear... they're great hats! Also, some of my Stetson's are great hats, take the weather like a champ and keep their shape!

All in all, vintage hats are fun and a good investment!

=WR=

[squid]

Originally Posted by Fedora

To the original question, I prefer hats made prior to 1947. Why? The carroting was done, using mercury. As far as I know, this was the best substance to use, as it yielded a "feel" that was exceptional, even on rabbit hats. On a related note, the prostitutes of the old west used the same stuff, mercurial nitrate on their eyelashes! The action of this stuff on hair caused the fibers to swell up, thereby giving a thicker appearance to the lashes. It affected the fur used for hats, in the same manner. It made the fur, even softer, which gave the hats of that era a particular feel, that has not been replicated since. But this was an attractive side effect, as the original use of mercury revolved around the fact that it raised the barbs on the fur the best of anything discovered, and still does. Not only did it pop up the barbs to the max, it also puffed the fur up like popcorn. A superiour felted hat composed of fur that was actually changed from its original state. I am not sure, but I think the rest of the world kept using mercury for years, as the ban was only in the USA-I think. Perhaps someone here knows. Fedora

You would think they would find a safe way to work with mercury. Or maybe not...

At one time mercury was used in the treatment of syphilis.
"A night in the arms of Venus leads to a lifetime on Mercury"