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1923 fabric swatches

Discussion in 'Suits' started by thunderw21, Jan 17, 2009.

  1. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    My swatch collection grows.

    Received a package in the mail today. It was the suit saleman's suitcase and swatches dated 1923 that I won on the Bay several days ago.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300154954964

    There are some wonderful swatches in this (most of them light summer weight including at least one Palm Beach fabric) and I will scan and post them as soon as I have a chance. Well worth the $ that went into this purchase.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers
     
  2. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    As promised, photos and descriptions.

    The unassuming wood and fabric suitcase. Very good condition, better than my 1959 sample suitcase.
    [​IMG]

    Open it up and you find 1923 treasure...
    [​IMG]

    The calender varifies the year as well as that most of the fabric samples are light-weight summer fabrics.
    [​IMG]

    The tools of the trade. The book on the right is full of happy customers singing praises of J.B. Simpson's overcoats and suits.
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    An interesting "crotch device" connected to the measuring tape. The tape is still neatly wrapped up and wired together, indicating this saleman's suitcase might never have been used for the intended purpose.
    [​IMG]

    Very old safety pins found inside the case.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Tomasso

    Tomasso Incurably Addicted

    Very cool, Thunder.

    !!!!!!!
     
  4. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Thanks Tomasso.


    Finally, the fabrics. I wish you could see them in person, some of the patterns are so subtle that the scanner has trouble picking them up. Also, some of the tags are missing.

    In all there are 47 swatches.

    [​IMG]

    I want a suit in this. 3-piece, DB, belted back.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Very subtle woven plaid pattern. Quite beautiful.
    [​IMG]

    The heaviest of all samples. Would make a wonderful overcoat.
    [​IMG]

    This has tiny red flecks throughout that the scanner couldn't pick up. 'Atomic' fleck in 1923.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Orange and green!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    ...
     
  5. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    ...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Camel hair? Cashmere?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tweed, no doubt.
    [​IMG]

    Very subtle chalkstripe between pinstripe.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...
     
  6. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    ...

    The last of the scans.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Palm Beach!
    [​IMG]

    This one is amazing to behold.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Vertical stripes with horizontal red fleck that the scanner doesn't pick up. 'Atomic' fleckish, again.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And that's it! Enjoy.

    -Will
     
  7. Tomasso

    Tomasso Incurably Addicted

    Wasn't there some flannel (cream/fleck) in that kit?
     
  8. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    I wish there was but there isn't. The second scan is the closest to what you're describing. I wouldn't doubt if there was some kind of a cream flannel at one point, but who knows how many samples are missing.



    Maybe you're thinking of my 1959 samples?
    [​IMG]
     
  9. This is good stuff.

    Are the weights given for these summer samples?
     
  10. thunderw21

    thunderw21 My Mail is Forwarded Here


    Unfortunately they are not.
    I don't know how to describe their weight; heavier than today's 'miracle' fabrics, no doubt.

    Nearly all of the samples are wool.
     

  11. that is a great fabric. for me the 20s fabrics have the edge over later ones as they're that bit more complex and jazzy (in a subtle way).
    i've just received a swatch set from the U.S. which i got for peanuts (only bidder).
    although it's not dated i can say with certainty it's also early 20s. i'll post some scans when i have time.
     
  12. double sided overcoat fabric:

    these would have been quarter lined and woud have the appearance of a plaid inner pattern:

    Front:

    [​IMG]

    Back:

    [​IMG]


    these next two are the heaviest overcoat fabric i've felt. typical English overcoats are around 36oz, this is twice the weight so around 72oz:

    Front:

    [​IMG]

    Back:

    [​IMG]

    Front:

    [​IMG]

    Back:

    [​IMG]

    single sided overcoat:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2012
  13. suit fabrics:

    these suit fabrics are all medium weight, and verging on 'scratchy' or 'scrunchy' (but not unpleasant) rather than soft:


    one of the fancy 'diamond weave' patterns that were popular in the early 20s:

    [​IMG]

    muted browns, reds, and blue-greys give an overall heathery effect:

    [​IMG]

    some green and red pin-dot stripes in here (hard to see):

    [​IMG]

    fancy herringbone:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    fuzzy cassimeres / cashmeres:

    [​IMG]

    these colours haven't turned out well in the scan. it's actually a mossy green:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2012
  14. Flat Foot Floey

    Flat Foot Floey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    It's kinda hard to comment on fabric swatches. The feel and the weight are as important as the color and pattern IMO. so we don't get the "experience" of the fabrics online.
    I would like a suit in the fancy, jazzy herringbone though.

    [​IMG]

    This for a summer suit would be great too.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Now that's some great stuff assembled here. I really like the overcoat fabrics HBK posted.

    Oops. This is my 4000th post! :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2012
  16. Flat Foot Floey

    Flat Foot Floey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    I need to see more suits made of diamond weave fabric.
     
  17. Oh yes, please!
     
  18. thanks chaps.

    what i need to do now is set about inventing a machine.
    you put a swatch in a small slot and press 'analyse'; it gives you the exact year and composition of the fabric.
    then you type in '20 metres' and press 'weave'...the fabric emerges from a long slot at the bottom of the machine.

    simple.
     
  19. Rudie

    Rudie One Too Many

    You forgot to type in "garment type" and "measurements" and press "tailor"...bespoke garment emerges from a big opening at the side of the machine.

    Still simple enough.
     
  20. Agreed. I find that weave very appealing. Some time back a member posted a firm that sold a diamond weave fabrice. Wish I could located the link..

    I'd invest in that technology!
     

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