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Discussion in 'Hats' started by Lefty, Sep 2, 2009.

  1. Bamaboots

    Bamaboots I'll Lock Up

    If the Bick caused that, I've got my doubts that sweat will hold up for much more manipulation. Usually, when the split occurs at the stitch line on an unreeded sweat, the leather is toast. Maybe not.

    Can't remember a brand on the tape. Look for a fabric type. I think I got my last at Hobby Lobby in the fabric/sewing supplies are sold.
    cozy d and M Hatman like this.
  2. I appears that the sweat, itself, is in supple condition. The issue is the reattachment. It is separated from the part that attaches to the felt and is not properly reattachable.
  3. I would agree. In seems the area of attachment is in a much more fragile condition than any other part of the sweatband. It had me wondering if the sweat could be removed, trimmed down to healthy leather and then reattached, but I guess that's probably too much to do just for the sake of keeping it all original. Who knows if that would even work or how long it would last? Hence, the tape idea... It's a new hat for me, I'm thinking I need to wear it for a bit to see how I really feel about it before making any commitments. Full disclosure, I dated my wife for 12years before I came to my senses and put a ring on her... I don't think I have to worry about the hat ever leaving me haha
    Zombie_61 likes this.
  4. I suppose anything is possible, but a sweat is constructed with an inner 'lip' that is the part that is actually stitched to the felt. Without this lip, as it would be if you trimmed it, it would look odd, and not have that nice edge where the vertical sides meets the brim.
  5. That's an unreeded sweat, so it's not even that simple. This sweatband is attached directly to the felt.

    Sent directly from my mind to yours.
  6. Yes, I see it now. Much more difficult, especially by hand.
    M Hatman likes this.
  7. Willybob

    Willybob One of the Regulars

    I've had this happen to one of my hats. If your handy with thread and needle and a sewing machine the repair is actually not difficult. Here's what I did.
    I trimmed the threads holding the sweat to the felt and removed the sweat. I then trimmed the sewn edge of the sweat back just enough to remove any stitch holes. I then used a 1/2" piece of matching color grosgrain to convert the reedless sweat to one similar to a reeded sweat so there would be a flap to re attach the sweat to the felt under the sweat.

    These two edges the pencil points to can be joined with a simple wipe stitch or tight zig zig stitch.
    If you don't use a machine, a local seamstress could do it for you.

    Once you have this done you hand sew the grosgrain to the felt as close to the point where to sweat and grossgrain are sewn together.
    This photo shows the underside of a standard reeded sweat. The grosgrain acts as the black & grey flap in the pic.
    I use a 3/8" or so cross stitch on two hand needles. It requires patients and can take a few hours. Stay within 1/4" of the transition from body to brim. Happy hatting.
    deadlyhandsome, M Hatman, RJR and 6 others like this.
  8. I'm lame with a sewing machine. Would it be possible to sew those two edges together using a loop(?) stitch? It might look very much like the original lower edge of the sweat where it is sewn to the felt. I am aware it would take longer to do it by hand, but I'm never in any rush. :)
    Redfokker likes this.
  9. Willybob

    Willybob One of the Regulars

    That would work.
    Redfokker and scottyrocks like this.
  10. Thanks for the tip!
    Redfokker likes this.
  11. I recently sent an old Stetson Open Road to VS for some work including minimizing some moth damage and putting on a new sweat. If you can find a shop that will do the work at a decent price it looks like it would be worth getting it fixed up.

    If your not up to doing the work yourself and if you don't have a local hatter give VS a look. The prices are reasonable, but this time of year expect it to take a couple months: https://vscustomhats.com/services/

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    M Hatman, Zombie_61 and cozy d like this.
  12. Thanks deadlyhandsome, what a coincidence, I go up that way to visit family every Xmas and never knew about that shop. Although I'm far too impatient to wait 2 months for the sweat, I wouldn't mind dropping in just to check the place out! Cheers, D
  13. He relocated to that location early last year. I've been told his turnaround time is much less come late spring and summer when fewer folks are wearing felt. You should also check out his new line of ready to wear hats. Cheers.
    M Hatman and Zombie_61 like this.
  14. Milpro

    Milpro New in Town

    I picked up this Biltmore Giorgio Cellini on bay. It came from Henry the Hatter in Detroit, but that is all I can figure out. Made in Canada. It's in excellent shape but someone removed the paper tag from the inside so the model information is lost. It doesn't match any of the current Cellini collection offerings I can find. The hatband style is also different from the Cellinis I've found online.

    It has both a front and rear pinch/dents. Brim is 2.5 inch.

    If anyone knows their Biltmore / Cellini collection, I would very much appreciate their insight.

    Attached Files:

  15. Milpro

    Milpro New in Town

    A view of the bash.

    Attached Files:

    Zombie_61 and Redfokker like this.
  16. Looks nice......I did up my Premier Strat in silverbelly like that with the front and rear pinches......gives it a sort of 20's vibe as they did that then......that hat gets me a lot of compliments.......
    Really like the shark gill bow on yours.....someone here will be able to give you more info about your hat.
    Milpro likes this.
  17. I just received a Stetson Premier Stratoliner. My issue is that the tag and sweat state that it's a Premier but the liner is for the lower quality Royal Deluxe. The box states it a Premier and a Royal DeLuxe?!? Any idea what's going on? I purchased it new from a reputable vender:

    Above: the liner from my two previously purchased Stetson Premier Stratoliners.

    Above: the liner from my new premier Stratoliner. The liner clearly states Royal DeLuxe.


    The felt on the new hat does not feel as nice as the felt on my two other Premiers, but I'm not sure if that is because it is a different color or if it's an inferior quality felt. I was specifically avoiding the Royal DeLuxe In favor of the Premier and now I don't know what I have.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Redfokker likes this.
  18. The quality designations on newer Hatco Stetsons are Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent. I believe the Premier designation is limited to the Strat line, as all other open crown hats are Royal Deluxe or Excellent.

    Sent directly from my mind to yours.
  19. jonesy86

    jonesy86 Practically Family

    Sorry, I'm new to this, but I am confused. Is the top quality newer Hatco Stetson a "Strat Line" premier? And "Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent" are lesser quality"?
    deadlyhandsome likes this.
  20. This doesn't answer my specific problem. This hat has both the Royal DeLuxe and the Premier designations. My other two recent manufactured Stratoliners only have the Premier designation. How can my new one be both a Premier and a Royal DeLuxe? The Hat-Co 2017 fall catalog does not show a Premier Stratoliner so I'm left to wonder what I have. It certainly does not have the quality of felt that my other two Premiers have.

    I'm sending this one back. Too bad, I was looking forward to wearing this hat.

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