Detail of suits 1950s esp in UK

[GBR]

I'm looking at getting a 1950s style suit made (decent MTM), but off the rack style, low to mid-price range that the man in the street would have, not MTM/bespoke. Whilst it is easy to judge style it is nigh impossible to pick up detailing which to me is import if it is to be a true 1950s suit. It may well be unusual to wear (fewer pockets etc.) but is part of it. 1950s style but 2000s details are completely wrong to me.

• One or two inside breast pockets in the coat? I would think just one (right) but not sure.
• In-ticket or not. Again not sure on this but probably none in many at the lower end??
• One back pocket (right) possibly with flap? Again none passes through my mind.
• Fob pocket, probably instead of a back pocket, right with flap. Wider than typical American style I guess.
• Button or zip fly? Completely unsure about this period
• Likely to have been worn with braces but fishtail back or straight?
• Turn-ups - again probably until mid-1960s in UK.

Thoughts please or better still, what do those suits you have tell us?

 

[jamesmac1801]

I'm looking at getting a 1950s style suit made (decent MTM), but off the rack style, low to mid-price range that the man in the street would have, not MTM/bespoke. Whilst it is easy to judge style it is nigh impossible to pick up detailing which to me is import if it is to be a true 1950s suit. It may well be unusual to wear (fewer pockets etc.) but is part of it. 1950s style but 2000s details are completely wrong to me.

• One or two inside breast pockets in the coat? I would think just one (right) but not sure.
• In-ticket or not. Again not sure on this but probably none in many at the lower end??
• One back pocket (right) possibly with flap? Again none passes through my mind.
• Fob pocket, probably instead of a back pocket, right with flap. Wider than typical American style I guess.
• Button or zip fly? Completely unsure about this period
• Likely to have been worn with braces but fishtail back or straight?
• Turn-ups - again probably until mid-1960s in UK.

Thoughts please or better still, what do those suits you have tell us?

I am not an expert on English style but for a typical American suit from 1950-1955 would include most of the following :
Trousers
Double pleated
High or semi high waisted
Typical cuffed
Two back pockets
Thin belt loops
Or suspender buttons if you'd prefer
Or even both
For the coat
Padded shoulders
wide notch lapels
Two or three button front
Pocket type either flapped straight pockets
Jetted pockets
Or patch pockets
The jetted or patch pockets I would go with as they look more vintagey
I'd skip the ticket pocket
I would go with no rear vent unless doing later 50s
For the sleeves either 3 or 4 buttons if you are going made to measure working buttons are nice . I would say 3 buttons look more vintage
I'd say that's about it . If I missed anything or got anything wrong feel free to correct me fellow loungers




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[Edward]

@twotypes is a good person to ask on this ... You out there, Sean?

One or two inside breast pockets in the coat? I would think just one (right) but not sure.

One for authenticity, but if you carry any samount of stuff in your pockets, you might consider compromising that for practicality's sake.

• One back pocket (right) possibly with flap? Again none passes through my mind.

In my experience, yes - just the one. (Not an isue for me - I never use back pockets in trousers for anything - not since I stopped carrying a chain wallet a dozen years ago.

• Button or zip fly? Completely unsure about this period

Either is fine. I prefer buttons, but both are period correcxt in my experience.

• Likely to have been worn with braces but fishtail back or straight?

In my experience, straight back is more common for that period

• Turn-ups - again probably until mid-1960s in UK.

Always on 50s suit trousers I've handled.
FWIW, do also bear in mind that civilian suits didn't have the sort of commonality of features that military uniforms do. Unless you're looking to perfectly recreate a very specific piece from the 50s, a lot of these details will be down to personal preference (beyond general trends in overall look, obviously). Period photos and - even better - period patterns if you cna find any would be a good guide to the overall look you're shooting for. Of course, if you were one of those who could afford to go bespoke back then, a lot of things that wouldn't have been typical became options - extra pockets and all sorts. Where are you looking at having this done - Rocachas?

 

[Mangrove]

Most of the 1950s British worsted wools I have seen are either 13 or 15-16 oz:

 

[GBR]

@twotypes is a good person to ask on this ... You out there, Sean?



One for authenticity, but if you carry any samount of stuff in your pockets, you might consider compromising that for practicality's sake.
In my experience, yes - just the one. (Not an isue for me - I never use back pockets in trousers for anything - not since I stopped carrying a chain wallet a dozen years ago.
Either is fine. I prefer buttons, but both are period correcxt in my experience.
In my experience, straight back is more common for that period

Always on 50s suit trousers I've handled.
FWIW, do also bear in mind that civilian suits didn't have the sort of commonality of features that military uniforms do. Unless you're looking to perfectly recreate a very specific piece from the 50s, a lot of these details will be down to personal preference (beyond general trends in overall look, obviously). Period photos and - even better - period patterns if you cna find any would be a good guide to the overall look you're shooting for. Of course, if you were one of those who could afford to go bespoke back then, a lot of things that wouldn't have been typical became options - extra pockets and all sorts. Where are you looking at having this done - Rocachas?

Thank you Edward, that is very helpful. I plan to go for as close to authenticity as I can for this one, that's part of the enjoyment I think. So, one inside pocket it will be, no back pocket and a button fly.

Yes I'd rather hoped Two Types would have offered his thoughts given he is an expert in this period of English suits.

 

[Edward]

Give 'im a pm, he's probably just missed this thread..