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Eastman Irvin RAF sheepskin repro sizing

heron163

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
northeast
Do their newest jackets run true to size or are they cut to fit a suit jacket/sportcoat underneath?

thanks
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,772
Location
Southern England
The arms and body are fairly short so if in doubt go up in size. I take a 42 in an A2 but prefer a 44 or 46 in an Irvin. I am 5 10 and 170 pounds.
 

WhiskeyTangoFox

One of the Regulars
Messages
157
Location
Iowa, U.S.A.
I agree with Mr. Lever. I normally wear a 44 and their size 44 fits well but is trim. If layering underneath is desired, I would recommend going up one size.

Noel
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
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855
Location
New Jersey
Do their newest jackets run true to size or are they cut to fit a suit jacket/sportcoat underneath?

thanks

You ask a very subjective question. If you wish to wear a suit/sport coat under one, then you should likely go up one size, and some would want to go up two sizes, as our experience selling this style has proven over the last 26 years. But if you prefer a fit that is not with this intention and something more tailored, there are those, myself included, who would order per their chest measure, thus chest measures 42", then order size 42.

We've laid out what we believe are really good sizing tips, plus product measures, on our respective website product pages for every garment we offer, which includes the ELC RAF styles:

https://www.historypreservation.com...ircrew-jacket-1938-pattern-battle-of-britain/

If we can assist personally, please contact us directly. Thank you.
 

heron163

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
northeast
You ask a very subjective question. If you wish to wear a suit/sport coat under one, then you should likely go up one size, and some would want to go up two sizes, as our experience selling this style has proven over the last 26 years. But if you prefer a fit that is not with this intention and something more tailored, there are those, myself included, who would order per their chest measure, thus chest measures 42", then order size 42.

We've laid out what we believe are really good sizing tips, plus product measures, on our respective website product pages for every garment we offer, which includes the ELC RAF styles:

https://www.historypreservation.com...ircrew-jacket-1938-pattern-battle-of-britain/

If we can assist personally, please contact us directly. Thank you.
Thank you Charles - that information was very helpful.

The most I wear under my B-3 is a thin cashmere sweater. I wanted to know if the Eastman is cut large.

I really like the looks of that 1944 "devon fleece" variant...
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Thank you Charles - that information was very helpful.

The most I wear under my B-3 is a thin cashmere sweater. I wanted to know if the Eastman is cut large.

I really like the looks of that 1944 "devon fleece" variant...

You are most welcome! The RAF Devon Fleece is quite nice, but due both to the thickness of the fleece and the TimeWear treatment, you will positively go up no less than one size in this style. Also, to be honest, the current batch of sheepskin, though fabulous and rare indeed, is not as fabulous as earlier consignments. Yes, it's fabulous Devon Fleece, but knowing what has passed through our hands in years gone by, this crop is just not as wonderful.

Please have a look at me wearing a size 40R RAF jacket below so you can assess fit (I'm 5' 9", 40" chest, 30" waist, 33" shirt sleeve, 150 lbs., lean, athletic build):
1938-RAF-front.jpg
1938-RAF-side.jpg
1938-RAF-back.jpg
 

heron163

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
northeast
You are most welcome! The RAF Devon Fleece is quite nice, but due both to the thickness of the fleece and the TimeWear treatment, you will positively go up no less than one size in this style. Also, to be honest, the current batch of sheepskin, though fabulous and rare indeed, is not as fabulous as earlier consignments. Yes, it's fabulous Devon Fleece, but knowing what has passed through our hands in years gone by, this crop is just not as wonderful.

Please have a look at me wearing a size 40R RAF jacket below so you can assess fit (I'm 5' 9", 40" chest, 30" waist, 33" shirt sleeve, 150 lbs., lean, athletic build): View attachment 38405 View attachment 38406 View attachment 38407

well that is disappointing... I really liked the looks of that jacket as much for the complex stitching pattern as for any specific properties of devon sheepskin other than the darker color but if they are using skins that are not up to the old standards, that is a concern...
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,772
Location
Southern England
Charles I would say that you jacket is too small. The arms are too short as is the body. If you look at originals being worn the cuffs come down to the knuckles.This is because the Irvin was designed to be worn in an open cockpit and the wrists had to be protected when the arms were raised above the head. The Irvin was classified as a short coat.
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
I agree with John here.

And to also add, the Irvin was designed to be worn over the top of Service Dress, and later, Battle Dress. It wasn't meant to be fitted at all.

When I ordered my 1940 ELC Pattern in 2007, I was recommended to go one size up from my regular suit size. Gary also said that because I am tallish (6'1''-2'') I should go for an "extra long" size which meant an additional 1 and a half inches on the body and sleeves.

Mine fits perfectly (if I do say so myself) and has the right drape and look as period photos.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
The RAF sheepskin jacket came in various size configurations to provide for those taller, shorter, etc., much as did the service blouse, etc., and indeed one would get what was available and/or which fit to one's best desire, hence the various looks we see in the vintage photos. Having said that, much like customer's getting all sorts of changes made to their authentic military jackets of WWII by companies wiling to do this custom work today (longer sleeves, flared out waists, shortened body lengths, etc.), the modifications and the body shapes and sizes of those wearing the jackets aren't in keeping with "authenticity."

Eastman makes regular fittings, and longs and extra longs by order only, and the jacket I'm wearing isn't my own jacket, just representative of a 40R on someone of my body type. A customer can extrapolate from the images and the listed measures as they relate to the jacket and their body size/type to give them a better idea of what to order and expect. I've tried on a 42R and it does look more period correct, but if I were to buy this style, I'd most likely go with this 40R because this pleases me more and the 42R is longer and roomier than I'd prefer. And just as with most customers, I'm not looking to reenact next to a Hurricane; rather, I want to wear that which is comfortable and in which I like the way I look. Personally, I'm a B-3 guy and own four (three Eastman and one Buzz Rickson's), but that has nothing to do with fitting customers in RAF jackets.

We have customers with different desires and different body shapes and sizes, so we'll work at getting the fit they want based on all relevant factors.
 
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HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
well that is disappointing... I really liked the looks of that jacket as much for the complex stitching pattern as for any specific properties of devon sheepskin other than the darker color but if they are using skins that are not up to the old standards, that is a concern...

I really want to emphasize that it's not that the new skins aren't nice, it's just that if one saw the older jackets, one would likely be more wowed. If you don't have a visual record to compare with, which most customers wouldn't, I sincerely doubt anyone would be displeased with the new jackets made from this current batch of skins. You need to forget any of the older jackets ever existed or spend your life seeking out pre-owned examples, as some obsessively dedicated enthusiasts sometimes do.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Interestingly about two months Gary told me that the current batch of skins was the best yet !

I'm sure any such views and opinions are subjective, including my own. But if you look at the older images of this style vs. the newer images, I'd be curious to know which you prefer.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
Messages
1,772
Location
Southern England
I didn't see any samples before the batch ran out. As I have said many times to the point of boring every one silly I don't like any of the new skins that much. The older the better for me, and I mean really old 25 years a plus if possible. My two Irvins my B3 and a long gone Anj4 were 1980's production from Fenland tannery. Here's the collar from Mr 30 year old Irvin.
 

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heron163

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
northeast
interesting take John... is it the raw quality of the older skins or how they look after being around and worn in?

I am going to buy the Irvin and take a chance that it will work out...
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,772
Location
Southern England
The skins are definitely better if you are lucky you can find a very old unworn example. The pliability of the leather makes them so comfortable to wear.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,418
Location
Glasgow
Oddly, the above jacket reminds me of the old Aero Irvin teddy bear shearling that they abandoned a couple of years ago. My current Irvin bears a closer resemblance to John's one.
 

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