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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
Interesting mixed color Fur Felt. Not sure of the hat company. The liner is missing so that might have had the company name. When you receive it please check for a paper label behind the sweatband. If there is one please post a photo. Also might have the company name on the other side of the sweatband. My guess is 1960s or 1970s. If you hit it with some steam and brush with the nap it should come back to life.
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
"Haar" usually means Fur (Rabbit, Hare) Felt. It's been scratched / brushed but roughly or not clipped. If it's Hare and wet brushed than it's Flamand (roughly or not clipped Velour). Regardless it's looks like nice felt. As I mentioned apply steam and brush with nap (looks counter clockwise). This will make it shine and hopefully bring some stiffness + form back.

Flamand

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...he-hat-related-meaning-of-flamand/?hl=flamand
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Another favorite, this hat is a piece of history. It is special that you can trace the lineage of the original vendor. Wow!
Stefan, Super find! It has a really great form and fantastic color. It's one of the oldest Rockel I have seen. Seems about the same time period of this one.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/17-rockel-hutfabrik/page-2#entry1148
This Rockel Velour is terrific!
Matt, Steve and Mike, thanks for the comments. I've been shopping for hats today and I found some that will interest you for sure. Have to take a mountain of dust off them first and give them a steaming, but there are some good ones there.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
I really should post the first hat of the hathunting spree here as well (if only to prevent this thread falling off of the first page:)).
Echter Mayser Spezial homburg in grey, size 59 (Daniele Tanto asked me to bring this one along), 5,5 cm brim and 10,5 cm crown at the pinch. Nice midgrey colour with a lighter grey ribbon and brim binding. Apart from some wrinkles in the ribbon as good as new. Hettlage und Lampe was a haberdashery in Kiel. I believe the hat dates from the late fifties to mid-sixties.



mayser homburg grey 59_1.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_2.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_3.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_4.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_5.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_6.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_7.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_8.jpg mayser homburg grey 59_9.jpg
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
And the second one right away (just so you're not here for re-runs only). Another Echter Mayser Spezial. Size 60, 6 cm raw edge brim and 12 cm crown at the pinch. Made for Albert Willenbrink of Bremen (couldn't find anything on that shop). Easy to date because it has a stamp on the inside sweatband: 1960.


mayser fedora 60_01.jpg mayser fedora 60_02.jpg mayser fedora 60_03.jpg mayser fedora 60_04.jpg mayser fedora 60_05.jpg mayser fedora 60_06.jpg mayser fedora 60_08.jpg mayser fedora 60_09.jpg mayser fedora 60_10.jpg mayser fedora 60_11.jpg
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Just posted hat number 5 in the homburg nation thread, so here is number 6 of the eight hat haul of friday. One I'm holding back for another themed posting, so after this one comes the number one on my list (hang in there). This one is an illustration how much I think I learned from reading thousands of postings here and looking at all the hats. A couple of years ago I wouldn't have looked at this hat twice, but now I think this is a special one. "Rein Haar", in heathered brown, no maker on the label or elsewhere, size 56, brim 6,5cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Unreeded construction and cloth crownpatch with the text "superior qual", frayed bow. Fairly stiff hat with nice felt but not the softest I have ever seen. Based on all of this I think this one is 1930's (the more hats I have, the more I like the older ones).
Any suggestions on who the maker might be or a better idea on its age are more than welcome.


rein haar alt_01.jpg rein haar alt_02.jpg rein haar alt_03.jpg rein haar alt_04.jpg rein haar alt_06.jpg rein haar alt_07.jpg rein haar alt_08.jpg rein haar alt_09.jpg rein haar alt_10.jpg rein haar alt_11.jpg
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
I think Steve (mayserwegener) will be pleased to see this one. There is one on his site that was owned by Rick (RLK on the lounge - I miss his postings and vast collection of hats) and I was very pleased to find this one. Hückel "standard" in hetahered grey, made for A. Breiter Munich. Not exactly a homburg, (but I will post it there too) but a curled brim early dress hat. Size 5 1/2 (58 european), with a 6cm brim and 11cm crown at the pinch. Reeded sweatband (some damage there, with the reed sticking through the reedband in places). Nice clean liner and unstitched double bow (no signs of it ever having been stitched to the hat). Gorgeous soft felt. The hat takes on a wonderful swooping curve if you put it on, which doesn't really show in the pictures. I think 1915 to 1925 (the world was still in black and white back then).


huckel breiter_01.jpg huckel breiter_02.jpg huckel breiter_04.jpg huckel breiter_05.jpg huckel breiter_06.jpg huckel breiter_07.jpg huckel breiter_08.jpg huckel breiter_09.jpg huckel breiter_10.jpg huckel breiter_11.jpg
 

KarlCrow

One Too Many
Just posted hat number 5 in the homburg nation thread, so here is number 6 of the eight hat haul of friday. One I'm holding back for another themed posting, so after this one comes the number one on my list (hang in there). This one is an illustration how much I think I learned from reading thousands of postings here and looking at all the hats. A couple of years ago I wouldn't have looked at this hat twice, but now I think this is a special one. "Rein Haar", in heathered brown, no maker on the label or elsewhere, size 56, brim 6,5cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Unreeded construction and cloth crownpatch with the text "superior qual", frayed bow. Fairly stiff hat with nice felt but not the softest I have ever seen. Based on all of this I think this one is 1930's (the more hats I have, the more I like the older ones).
Any suggestions on who the maker might be or a better idea on its age are more than welcome.

That Reinhaar is amazing
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
I really should post the first hat of the hathunting spree here as well (if only to prevent this thread falling off of the first page:)).
Echter Mayser Spezial homburg in grey, size 59 (Daniele Tanto asked me to bring this one along), 5,5 cm brim and 10,5 cm crown at the pinch. Nice midgrey colour with a lighter grey ribbon and brim binding. Apart from some wrinkles in the ribbon as good as new. Hettlage und Lampe was a haberdashery in Kiel. I believe the hat dates from the late fifties to mid-sixties.
Great looking Homburg in a unique color. It's from the same time period as the Mayser directly below.

And the second one right away (just so you're not here for re-runs only). Another Echter Mayser Spezial. Size 60, 6 cm raw edge brim and 12 cm crown at the pinch. Made for Albert Willenbrink of Bremen (couldn't find anything on that shop). Easy to date because it has a stamp on the inside sweatband: 1960.
Really sharp looking Spezial. Very nice color and form.

Just posted hat number 5 in the homburg nation thread, so here is number 6 of the eight hat haul of friday. One I'm holding back for another themed posting, so after this one comes the number one on my list (hang in there). This one is an illustration how much I think I learned from reading thousands of postings here and looking at all the hats. A couple of years ago I wouldn't have looked at this hat twice, but now I think this is a special one. "Rein Haar", in heathered brown, no maker on the label or elsewhere, size 56, brim 6,5cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Unreeded construction and cloth crownpatch with the text "superior qual", frayed bow. Fairly stiff hat with nice felt but not the softest I have ever seen. Based on all of this I think this one is 1930's (the more hats I have, the more I like the older ones).
Any suggestions on who the maker might be or a better idea on its age are more than welcome.
Super find! The heather brown color and form is great. It's interesting that the paper label has size 58 and the individual size label is 56. The paper label is similar to Mayser Ulm (see link below). I assume "Melé " is similar to mêlé / mélange (mixed / blend) which matches the felt but the size is wrong. Also the tip patch is in English while the sweatband is in English. I wonder if it was modified along the way?

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/page-5#entry804
I think Steve (mayserwegener) will be pleased to see this one. There is one on his site that was owned by Rick (RLK on the lounge - I miss his postings and vast collection of hats) and I was very pleased to find this one. Hückel "standard" in hetahered grey, made for A. Breiter Munich. Not exactly a homburg, (but I will post it there too) but a curled brim early dress hat. Size 5 1/2 (58 european), with a 6cm brim and 11cm crown at the pinch. Reeded sweatband (some damage there, with the reed sticking through the reedband in places). Nice clean liner and unstitched double bow (no signs of it ever having been stitched to the hat). Gorgeous soft felt. The hat takes on a wonderful swooping curve if you put it on, which doesn't really show in the pictures. I think 1915 to 1925 (the world was still in black and white back then).
Yes I am very pleased to see this beautiful hat! Everything about it is fantastic. People today would call it a Homburg or Homburg like but this is a great example of a hat you don't see post WWII. My guess is that it's from the early 1930s or later 1920s. Earlier JHS hats have paper labels that look similar to this one but I am not sure when (my guess is sometime in the 1920s) the transition took place to the later paper label.

9584620444_10a5637cd5_b.jpg
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Great looking Homburg in a unique color. It's from the same time period as the Mayser directly below.


Really sharp looking Spezial. Very nice color and form.


Super find! The heather brown color and form is great. It's interesting that the paper label has size 58 and the individual size label is 56. The paper label is similar to Mayser Ulm (see link below). I assume "Melé " is similar to mêlé / mélange (mixed / blend) which matches the felt but the size is wrong. Also the tip patch is in English while the sweatband is in English. I wonder if it was modified along the way?

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/page-5#entry804

Yes I am very pleased to see this beautiful hat! Everything about it is fantastic. People today would call it a Homburg or Homburg like but this is a great example of a hat you don't see post WWII. My guess is that it's from the early 1930s or later 1920s. Earlier JHS hats have paper labels that look similar to this one but I am not sure when (my guess is sometime in the 1920s) the transition took place to the later paper label.

9584620444_10a5637cd5_b.jpg
Steve, thanks for the comments and for the extra information. I will attribute the Rein Haar to Mayser Ulm based on the label. The hat doesn't seem to be modified, but maybe the orginal label was wrong and the 56 size sticker was added later to correct it. It happens more often, because the Tirard I posted in the Homburg Nation thread has the same situation: there are two size stickers in that one too.

The Hückel I was very pleased with especially as it fits me perfectly. It has a size 5 1/2 on the label which would be a 58 size, but it seems to have shrunken somewhat (the ribbon is a bit loose fitting because of it). I had the same with the Borsalino lobbia in one of my early posts: that one was a 5 1/2 too and is now a perfect fit.

The Maysers I picked up for Daniele as part of a European hat-exchange program.:)
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
Steve, thanks for the comments and for the extra information.

The Hückel I was very pleased with especially as it fits me perfectly. It has a size 5 1/2 on the label which would be a 58 size, but it seems to have shrunken somewhat (the ribbon is a bit loose fitting because of it).
It's possible your JHS "Standard" is Point 5 / 57cm. JHS paper labels that have Point and CM sizes the CM size is always one less than expected.

4710378246_d584e38082_b.jpg


Here is one with an external size label and the CM sizes match but not the French Point. In this case I would say the CM is most accurate.

3334747147_992b0fd1fd_b.jpg


IMG
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
Steve, thanks for the comments and for the extra information. I will attribute the Rein Haar to Mayser Ulm based on the label. The hat doesn't seem to be modified, but maybe the orginal label was wrong and the 56 size sticker was added later to correct it. It happens more often, because the Tirard I posted in the Homburg Nation thread has the same situation: there are two size stickers in that one too.
This one is strange because nothing other than (might not be) the paper label points to Mayser Ulm. Regardless it's a great hat.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I think Steve (mayserwegener) will be pleased to see this one. There is one on his site that was owned by Rick (RLK on the lounge - I miss his postings and vast collection of hats) and I was very pleased to find this one. Hückel "standard" in hetahered grey, made for A. Breiter Munich. Not exactly a homburg, (but I will post it there too) but a curled brim early dress hat. Size 5 1/2 (58 european), with a 6cm brim and 11cm crown at the pinch. Reeded sweatband (some damage there, with the reed sticking through the reedband in places). Nice clean liner and unstitched double bow (no signs of it ever having been stitched to the hat). Gorgeous soft felt. The hat takes on a wonderful swooping curve if you put it on, which doesn't really show in the pictures. I think 1915 to 1925 (the world was still in black and white back then).


View attachment 73368 View attachment 73369 View attachment 73370 View attachment 73371 View attachment 73372 View attachment 73373 View attachment 73374 View attachment 73375 View attachment 73376 View attachment 73377
Beautiful hat as usual. I find it interesting that it has the lines of a Homburg without the binding on the brim. Is this the "nexus" of what we call a Lord's Hat (an American term(?).
 

KarlCrow

One Too Many
yes, i've been looking on ebay. I suppose it's as much about luck as anything, that your size appears for sale, in the colour style and shape you seek when you have the time to search. I've favorited a couple of online shops i've found that sell similar items if not in my size. But google doesn't seem to lead to much right now. By foot, Most b & m, thrift stores in Dublin shut down by the 2000s and there aren't decent flea markets here anymore. Pity. Before Temple Bar became a tourist attraction in the late 1990s it was full of such stores, now it's full of super pubs and tourists.

but thanks, i'm going to england in the summer on holidays, maybe I'll try and suss out where thete are some good used flea markets and drop by.
 

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