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Help with overcoat sizing

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
Can anyone give me a hand on what size overcoat I should buy?

I'm a size 36, but if I want to wear a suit under the coat how much larger of a size do I buy?

I was thinking that I should buy a size 38 coat and that should be enough room but I would be much obliged if someone has any thoughts on the matter.
 

Mr Badger

Practically Family
Messages
545
Location
Somerset, UK
Hey chap. I'm quite wide-shouldered and have suffered problems in this regard. I'd deff go with shoulder measurements, as opposed to chest sizes. The way I worked it out, which seems to be right for buying a topcoat/overcoat to fit over a suit jacket with moderately-padded shoulders is:

1) Take the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement of your favourite, well-fitting suit jacket/sports coat
2) Add two-four inches and that should be the shoulder measurement of the topcoat/overcoat, depending on its thickness/shoulder pads.
3) Bob's yer uncle, as we Limeys say!

There's nothing worse than barely being able to move your shoulders in a topcoat/overcoat!
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Yep,as Mr.Badger said, it's all about the shoulders. Theoretically, one would wear the same size overcoat as suit but there can be variations between brands so it's best to try on or at least compare measurements from a good fitting coat.
 

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
Shoulders, gotcha.

I do have a nice fitting overcoat at home, but I think it is only a nice fitting one by sheer dumb luck, as I cannot recall the measurements.

I will be sure to measure it out when I go home tonight and then plan accordingly.

Thanks again Gents!
 

apba1166

A-List Customer
Messages
372
Location
Philadelphia
Yep,as Mr.Badger said, it's all about the shoulders. Theoretically, one would wear the same size overcoat as suit but there can be variations between brands so it's best to try on or at least compare measurements from a good fitting coat.

I wear a 40L or 42R suit; I have two "designer" wool topcoats, one's a 40L and the other's a 42R and they fit perfectly over a suit coat. Why not run into any dept. store and just try for fit. If you're unsure you can try a raglan as well.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Confused. An overcoat in my estimation would fit over another coat/jacket. Do makers compensate for this already? If not, would you not get a larger size?
 

apba1166

A-List Customer
Messages
372
Location
Philadelphia
compensate, to a degree

as mentioned already, the shoulders are what matters, but the coats are measured by chest size. so they give a little room in the shoulders, sleeves, etc., knowing that if you are a 40L, the topcoat that will fit you in the chest, will need enough shoulder to fit over a suit jacket, and the sleeve will need to be tad longer to fit as well over the other garments. But the chest measurement often works, because of the extra room usually in chest measurements to begin with.
 

Mr Badger

Practically Family
Messages
545
Location
Somerset, UK
as mentioned already, the shoulders are what matters, but the coats are measured by chest size. so they give a little room in the shoulders, sleeves, etc., knowing that if you are a 40L, the topcoat that will fit you in the chest, will need enough shoulder to fit over a suit jacket, and the sleeve will need to be tad longer to fit as well over the other garments. But the chest measurement often works, because of the extra room usually in chest measurements to begin with.

With modern overcoats, I've found that this is the case. However, in my experience, vintage coats are usually narrower in the shoulder than modern versions, as folks were generally smaller. For instance, I own a mid-40s wool topcoat that's around 48" in the chest, which is nice and comfy when wearing a thick-ish suit jacket, but it's only 20" across the shoulders, meaning that I can only wear unstructured jackets (i.e. without shoulder pads) underneath, which is a pain...
 

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
I wear a 40L or 42R suit; I have two "designer" wool topcoats, one's a 40L and the other's a 42R and they fit perfectly over a suit coat. Why not run into any dept. store and just try for fit. If you're unsure you can try a raglan as well.

Boy you know I wish I could but Juneau doesn't have any department stores, it's criminal no doubt. Plus as Badger said above the vintage coats size differentely.
 

azhiker

One of the Regulars
Messages
218
Location
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
I just bought the trench coat in my avatar about 2 months ago. I got it from the Mens Warehouse online. At the store, the same folks told me an overcoat is sized to fit over a suit of the same size. That is their overcoats, but they gave me the impression that this is true of all. Of course I hate the terms 'always' and 'forever'..:)
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,788
Location
London, UK
My rule f thumb has always been to look for an overcoat one size up from my suitcoat measurement - i.e. I wear a 42R suit jacket, so a 44R overcoat. Occasionally I find a 46 is better in vintage (as is a 44 for the suit). Never gone badly wrong with this.
 

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