Hong Kong Tailors

[Cobden]

The next time I go in when they're not too busy I'll talk to them again about either putting this as a style on their website or giving me a reference number that you can quote to say what shirt you want.

bk

If that happens, they can be assured of my custom in the future. The shirt looks marvelous

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Well, even if I was willing to shell out $360.00 for a shirt, and OTR, I couldn't buy one of those. They just wouldn't fit. Even their biggest shirt has sleeves that are too short for me, and the collar size I'd need has sleeves that go just below my elbows. I do love the style, though.

I wonder if they paid the Django Reinhardt estate for the use of his likeness?

Just kiidding; those pics are probably in the public domain for a long time, now.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I can happily tell you guys that Jantzen do offer a detachable collar option. Collars cost HK$80 each. Total for the reproduction 1920s/30s tunic shirt with 4 detachable collars is HK$720. They insist that their "tailor" (i.e. child in Shenzhen) has made a pattern and so does not need to be provided with the original to copy again.

Well, we'll see. I have an order in for this same shirt but with detachable collars. they do not have the original. It's all down to the "pattern" this time. This is the test that will let us all know if they can do this shirt reproducibly, and therefore whether they're likely to be able to do it on internet orders. pick-up is on Wednesday evening after work.

cheers,

bk

 

[Rudie]

Sounds very good. Let's hope they make the collars reasonably soft and floppy. I'm looking forward to your review next week.

I'd probably need only two collars. I don't think I'd wear it more than twice before washing. How much would it be with a permanent collar? Does the price include the shirting or did you provide your own fabric?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The prices I've quoted so far are all-inclusive. With an attached collar, the shirt is HK$430, because of the extra fabric in the body. Their standard price is HK$350.

The reason I've ordered so many collars is to have multiple styles to suit whatever jacket/tie I'm wearing, and my preference on the day. I ordered one of the long point "repro" style, a spread colar and a rounded collar with pinholes. I also got a plain white collar, for that weird "business" contrasting collar look that I find strangely appealing. The fabric this time is white with a black stripe.

I am establishing myself as a regular customer before I broach the subject of bringing my own cloth. That doesn't seem to go down well over here, from what I've heard. I have some great shirting fabric that I want to use for a casual shirt - it's from the 30s/40s and covered in cartoon Chinamen - but I think I should establish a relationship with these guys before marching in with my racist fabric!

bk

 

[Rudie]

Thanks. This is very affordable. Are the collar and cuffs unfused or fused?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The first one, at least, the collar and cuffs are not fused.

bk

 

[Rudie]

Great!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Who knows, maybe they're giving me special treatment because I've indicated that there may be a lot of business coming their way … I hadn't actually checked the collar/cuffs 'til you asked, and I was pleasantly surprised.

bk

 

[Gin&Tonics]

Speaking of Hong Kong Tailors...

Anyone used these guys?
http://www.maxwellsclothiers.com/

A friend of mine introduced me to them, and I must say I'm very intrigued at their product/service offerings. They travel around the world and you can make a stop in to see their master tailor who will measure you personally for 27 different measurements and take your order for whatever you like. After that, they keep your measurements on file and you can order other products in the future.

They seem to have a nice range of styles that include some very vintage looking offerings; they can even do pleated belt backed sport coats with patch pockets! I was hoping someone on FL had used them and could vouch for their quality.

I sent them an email to make some inquiries about their prices and whether they can work with linen (not listed on their site)

Incidentally, my friend bought shirts from them which he is thrilled with; you choose the collar, cuff and fabric, even a personal monogram, and they make it to your measurements. He's never tried their suits though.

Hope this is of interest to my fellow Loungers!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

More excellent results from Jantzen. I actually like this one better than the first. The fabric is a bit less conservative, which probably explains my feelings on it. Pics later, and info for how to order this shirt from them online. They told me that altering arm lengths/shoulder widths/collar sizes etc. will be easy now that they have the basic pattern. The Shenzhen child seems to be very skilled and able to reproducibly produce this shirt, suggesting that they now have a pattern on file. Collars and cuffs are not fused. I would advise in any message to them when ordering this shirt that you make it clear that you want the exact reproduction, just with your measurements catered for.

The people I've dealt with at Jantzen (I've interacted with several different assistants) have all been very helpful and seem all to understand what I want when I say an "exact" reproduction.

bk

 

[Rudie]

Great. Can't wait to order. Do you happen to know if they have plain cotton flannel shirtings?

Are the collars/cuffs very soft? If yes, do they have interfacing or none at all?

Thanks, Baron. I'm thrilled that you made this possible.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The collar has interfacing, and it's still a little thick to be a perfect reproduction of this particular shirt. However, even with the interlining, the collar and cuffs are quite soft and the interlining is much thinner than their standard interlining. personally I don't believe that they can't just put a piece of linen in there, but they seem unwilling.

Having said that, I am perfectly happy as the collar is thinner/floppier than some (though not all) vintage examples that I own. So, it is a period-accurate thickness. You could always, relatively cheaply, have the interlining taken out if it's too thick for you.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The new collars. I really like this fabric. Here's the copy of the 20s/30s collar. [warning, if you get detachable, you will need collar studs].

This shape is an exact copy of the original. The standard Jantzen collar does not have this shape at the rear/centre.

And here are the two other collars I had made. I own vintage shirts from this era with both these collar styles.

Standard spread collar.

Slightly spread with rounded tips. I can't remember if I ordered one with holes for a collar pin, but if I did they forgot to put the holes in it.

All in all an excellent experience.

2nd row, 3rd from left is what I'm going for:

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Almost forgot. When you want to order this shirt, put in a message saying you want the reproduction 1930s shirt made for customer reference # S43472

PM me and I'll give you my real name (Kurtz won't get you very far!), so you can also say you want the shirt they made for me. It will help to have my name and my customer #, then they shouldn't make any mistakes.

I accept no responsibility for any errors they make/lack of satisfaction for your orders. I can only say how well they've done my shirts.

Best,

bk

 

[Rudie]

bk, you said that the collar back height was 1.675" on the original shirt and 2" on your copies. Is that because of the unusual shape at the rear? 2" seems extremely high to me. And another question: Does the shirt have French cuffs or normal cuffs?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes. The least deep part of the collar is just a touch over 1.75", and the deepest part - other than the points - is just a smidge over 2". I have a rather long neck, which is why I asked them to increase the height.

The Jantzen collars are just a bit over 1.5", which I can deal with, but I'll have to ask them to increase the depth next time.

bk

 

[Chasseur]

Baron,

Excellent news, thank you again for keeping us in mind and sharing the information with us.

 

[PADDY]

Outstanding stuff!

 

[NaDan]

W. W. Chan & Sons are the best in town. Pricey, though. HK isn't a cheap place for tailors any more, if you want any decent work. Walk down Nathan Road and you'll be harangued by endless Indian chaps offering you a HK$3500 (£300/US$500) suit, but the fabric will be sh*te, and the tailoring sh*te. If you have the budget for a £1000 suit, go to Chan.

For shirts, I'm off to check out Jantzen after the Sevens debauchery is over. I'll let you know what they're like. I've heard bad things about them for suits, but for shirts, they're apparently the bee's knees. i have a great 20s shirt to get copied, so I hope they can do a good job. At about HK$400, they're great value. Let's see if they can take instruction.

Good luck.

bk

WW Chan & Sons +1