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Italian Cut Suits on Larger Men

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Roen, Oct 29, 2017.

  1. Roen

    Roen New in Town

    10
    I wanted to pick the brains of the members here regarding Italian Cut suits on larger men. As I understand it, the Italian cut suit is mainly designed for the body type of the classic Italian gentleman. However, I wonder if the majority of the features can be adopted to the body types of larger gentlemen, with certain modifications.

    Jacket:
    Light Cloth
    Light Canvas
    Unstructured Shoulder
    Fitted (but not so tight that it shows the body outline)
    Sleek Silhouette
    High Buttons
    Flapless (Jetted) Pockets
    High Gorge Lines
    Low Overall Padding
    No Vent (This may not work well for larger men, so centre vent instead?)

    Pants:
    Tapered Waist
    Tight Hips
    No Break
     
  2. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus One of the Regulars

    I am Italian and in my opinion, if the look you have in mind is the current trendy "italianate" look, you are safer avoiding it. Especially the trousers; Italian trousers are cut in such a horrid way, today, that I am now relieving that I've moved so I don't have to touch one of them anymore. The usual suit trousers in Italy feature low waist, very fitted hips (in other words, useless pockets), very high crotch and almost skin-tight fitted legs which, even if they have the right lenght, can not drape properly on the shoes due to their width.
    I don't like roomy cuts, I am really into the preference of a fitted jacket and especially I'm not too fond of too wide straight legged trousers, but I absolutely don't tolerate being wrapped up in a sort of chastity belt with no way to put the hands in my pockets. Nobody can be comfortable in that cut, trust me, no matter what they say, Plus, the absence of break and the ridiculous shortness of the rise convey to the figure a clownish appeal, other than making everyone appear shorter (again, despite the "slendering effect" attributed to short trousers by designers; just compare yourself and you'll see).
     

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