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The Bowler or Derby Hat

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17,901
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Nederland
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Great looking bowler, Justin. That hat has some character to it. To weigh it try standing on a scale with it and without it:D
 

Willybob

A-List Customer
Messages
367
I wonder if any of you bowler experts can help me date my Grandad's old Bowler. He gifted it to me in 1978. Heres some pics

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Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I wonder if any of you bowler experts can help me date my Grandad's old Bowler. He gifted it to me in 1978. Heres some pics

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At first glance, it is an old one. There are a couple of threads that can help in dating, "Dating Your Hat" and the dedicated Stetson Dating threads. Warner Houston also has a website with dating tips here. That liner is also a dating point.
The clues to a date of 1930s (?) are there, but someone who is more knowledgeable might see this post again and comment. This is called a "bump", putting this question back on the front page.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
As far as I can tell I haven't posted this one before (I may have done so in the German and Austrian Hatmakers thread, but I can't find it there). Kaller Super Boreal bowler in black. Size 57. Brim at 5,5cm and crown 12 cm. Can't say who the manufacturer was. Kaller or later Fein-Kaller was located in Basel, Switzerland. Maybe it was in fact Swiss made, which would explain the use of both German (speziell angefertigt für) and French (chapellerie Kaller). The make and finishing on this hat is of very high standard.

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Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
As far as I can tell I haven't posted this one before (I may have done so in the German and Austrian Hatmakers thread, but I can't find it there). Kaller Super Boreal bowler in black. Size 57. Brim at 5,5cm and crown 12 cm. Can't say who the manufacturer was. Kaller or later Fein-Kaller was located in Basel, Switzerland. Maybe it was in fact Swiss made, which would explain the use of both German (speziell angefertigt für) and French (chapellerie Kaller). The make and finishing on this hat is of very high standard.

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That is what I like about this place, educational as well as entertaining. This is a beauty Stefan. The combination of German and French is very unique. Pristine.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Stefan, Fantastic to see a Swiss Stiff Felt! It does have a great finish. It looks to be in NOS condition.
That is what I like about this place, educational as well as entertaining. This is a beauty Stefan. The combination of German and French is very unique. Pristine.
Steve, Mike, thanks. Because it looks unworn it is hard to say how old it is. The bow does not have a frayed edge so I'm inclined to say post-war.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Here's another bowler hat I haven't posted before (been neglecting them a bit). Chapelier Armand bowler in black, size 56. Unlined and no crown patch either (hard to say if there ever was one). This one did come with its mourning band still there (which i thought was very cool). Chapelier Armand was based in Brussels and the hat is Belgian too, because the label shows the Belgian motto "L'union fait la force" (hard to see in the picture, but trust me). Lovely felt and quite lightweight too (the Kaller is a fair bit heavier). Judging by the sizing label an fairly early one; late forties or early fifties, maybe even earlier.

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Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Stefan, Great form! This one does look older. Thank you posting photos of both of them. By the way your Hat Photos (in general) are fantastic!
Steve, thanks! I must say I took inspiration from your setup when taking pictures of my hats. The lighting and placement of your pictures always looks the same and spot on for the hats.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Picked up this last friday. It had been sitting in the attic for more than fifty years according to the seller and had belonged to her husband's grandfather. Her husband was in his seventies now, so that would put this one in the twenties or thirties I believe. While handling the hat something odd happened that I never seen before. The sweatband, which had seemed supple before, sort of hardened and tore when I tried the hat on (fits me perfectly too, so it wasn't the tight fit). Not only did it break but the tear widened too like it had been under a lot of tension. Pity that, because it looked pristine when I first held it in my hands. I can always have the sweatband replaced of course, but I would have liked it in its original state. I kick myself for not being more careful.
Anyway: Chapeau Norite, size 57, unlined with a cloth crwon patch. No labels under the sweatband (when I checked the sweatband was still supple). Brim at 5cm and crown 12,5cm. Unsure wether this is a French or Belgian hat. It is woolfelt and feels a bit more coarse to the touch than other bowlers I have. Very well made though.

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Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Mike, thanks. It's still very wearable, but I still can't figure out what went wrong with the sweat. I'm a civil servant: I hate breaking a sweat:D
 
Messages
17,247
Location
Maryland
i can imagine, maybe they put a thinner piece of leather in the felted wool version, although who says there was a furfelt version and not that that consoles. (-:
Wool Stiff Felts were common in Europe. There is some variance in components based on quality levels within Wool Stiff Felts. For example this Brüder Böhm Wien Wool Stiff Felt would be at the higher end.

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