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What leather conditioner do you use?

Hondo

One Too Many
Messages
1,655
Location
Northern California
Not an authority but mink oil was great for my old baseball glove, (sighing ah sweet youth!, no longer play baseball) I don’t think it would hurt if want to spend time rubbing it in but I would go for spray on water proof for newly leather jackets, just an opinion.
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Your Avatar - Kt Temppar

I have just finished reading a huge history of the Kingdom of Sicily from 1080 to 1230.

That coin in your avatar - is that an original medieval coin from King William of Sicily?

Re rehabbing dry leather in shoes - what are the best methods once they are cleaned up with soap and water?
 

rainguy

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Portland, OR
I've had excellent results using Lexol, which you generally have to buy at a leather specialty store. Soaks in slowly, renders the leather soft and supple. If it's really old and dry, you might have to use two treatments.
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
I've always heard that mink oil and neetsfoot oil are great for boots, since you want those to be water proofed, but one of the benefits of a leather jacket is that it will breathe. If you make it totally water proof by putting mink oil or neetsfoot oil on it, it will lose that and become essentially like a vinyl rain coat. Pecards or lexol is supposed to be better as it conditions the leather but allows it to continue to breathe.

fedoralover
 

A2_Junkie

New in Town
Messages
26
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Mink oil

I used mink oil on an old A-2 that looked almost as bad at Scotrace's 27752 (see: http://web.mac.com/scotrace/iWeb/Site/Library 3.html) and it came out very nicely, with no issues 10 years later. Of course, it doesn't get worn anymore, so fedoralover's point about breathing wasn't really tested. I would say that it appears old, but supple now. My brother has it, so I can take a quick picture to show you.

-Peter
 

Estevan

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
mmmm
Kt Templar said:
For those older jackets that seem to be drying out, what are the arguements for and against mink oil as opposed to something like, say, Pecard?


I have always used Pecards and have great results each time. Just make sure you don't apply too much and let it soak in before you wear it.
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
I have to agree with the above post, Pecards is the way to go. I'm a WW2 collector and other collectors I know use Pecards to bring life back into their leather pieces, even flight jackets.
Billy
 

rongoms

Familiar Face
Messages
88
Location
Seattle, WA
+1 for Mink oil.

I've used it for years on everythign from football boots to my leather furniture.

It does require a bit of care, but i'f you've got a pair of shoes that's just a hair small, slather them with mink oil a (i like the creme), wear them around for a day and Bobs your uncle.
 

Lonn

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
On the ground again in Seattle
animal/mineral

Hi,
My only and decades old concern about mink oil is that it is an animal oil. When I first started studying leather goods as a young man I read somewhere (might have been firefox) that animal oils were a threat to natural fiber thread. The micro-organisms that could feed off the animal oil could also feed on the thread weakening the seams.
The way I understand it is the condition of your leather is the result of two things. Water content and oil content. There has to be a balance. Oiling leather does as much to keep water in as out. Get your water content right first. Nice and soft but not impressionable or flimsy, then oil to keep it that way. I prefer pure petroleum jelly for stiffer leathers, belts, hats, etc. and unscented baby oil/mineral oil for leathers I want real soft.
Mineral oil on a Brooks saddle is magic.
 

Kt Templar

One of the Regulars
Messages
289
Location
Nr Wimbledon, SW London. UK
cookie said:
That coin in your avatar - is that an original medieval coin from King William of Sicily?

I believe it's a modern reproduction of an ancient Templar seal.

Thanks for your input guys. The reason I ask is: I've heard that mink oil may possibly go rancid with time and that mineral oil based conditioners may be preferable because of this.
 

CanadaDoll

Practically Family
Messages
961
Location
Canada
I worked in shoe sales for a while, and mink oil can be used on most leathers, unless otherwise recommended, I use it on leather purses and it's great.
I've had mine for over a year, and it's still good, if you are concerned about it going rancid replace your container and when you use it, use it sparingly and buff it really well, I haven't had a single problem with the stuff.:D

If you are ever unsure I recommend taking the item to a professional before doing anything, they will usually give an appraisal and advice for a small amount if anything. Better safe than sorry, IMHO, especailly when something vintage is concerned:)
 

Nirvana

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Nebraska
"I prefer pure petroleum jelly for stiffer leathers, belts, hats, etc. and unscented baby oil/mineral oil for leathers I want real soft.
Mineral oil on a Brooks saddle is magic."


HMMM...That's one I haven't heard of, but I don't know why it wouldn't be just fine. I just bought a pair of WWII leather trousers that are sheep skin lined, the leather is quite dried out. I'll have to try that..

Thanks for the information.

Nirvana
 

Estevan

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
mmmm
Nirvana said:
"I prefer pure petroleum jelly for stiffer leathers, belts, hats, etc. and unscented baby oil/mineral oil for leathers I want real soft.
Mineral oil on a Brooks saddle is magic."


HMMM...That's one I haven't heard of, but I don't know why it wouldn't be just fine. I just bought a pair of WWII leather trousers that are sheep skin lined, the leather is quite dried out. I'll have to try that..

Thanks for the information.

Nirvana

Let us know how if work out, I'm kinda curious.[huh]
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
My Vintage 'Gator and leather shoes

I just bought a pair on the 'Bay. Thanks for the input so far.

They are dirty and dry according to the blurb.

What is the best start with the cleaning of the regular leather and 'gator leather in order to start the rehab process?

Then the next step for the remoisturizing - as above?

C
 

JDCrockett

New in Town
Messages
44
Location
New Jersey
Be careful with mineral oil!

I've had a personal bad experience with Baby/Mineral oil. When I was riding horses as a kid some folks used baby oil to quickly soften and darken new tack (saddles and bridles.) Normal care of tack also reqires
periodic cleaning with saddle soap and re-oiling (most use Neatsfoot or Lexol.) I bought a theme park souvenir bull whip in the mid 70's and desiring to soften it and darken it I treated liberally with Baby oil which had the desired effect. Then I put it away in a closet never using it much and never really cleaning it or even inspecting it closely again(I always wanted a whip since Zorro and Lash Larue etc. but didn't have a real need for one)
3 to 5 years later the leather had rotted and broke easily, it could be snapped by hand!:mad: I blamed it on the oil breaking down the fibers of the leather and have never used baby oil again on leather. I realize that I don't have all the information required to really judge what happened (leather quality, tanning, moisture present to begin with lack of follow up with
saddle soap.) but to be safe I would not use mineral oil or petroleum jelly on leather. Stick with real lexol or other natural dressings (Pecards is always highly recommended on most leather vendors websites)
 
Messages
925
Location
The Empire State
Leather treatment

Hello fellow leather wearers,my question to all of the aficonados of the fine leather garment be they new or "vintage" what do we recommend for a very nice early 55J14 Foster.Peccards,Lexol,Fieblings? Thanks Brian.
 

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