Pean to Lee denim and modern repros

[Facini]

Been into Levi’s for as long as I’ve been into denim but was always quite curious on the rider and especially stormrider jackets. So, finally, a late 60s 101-J in size 42R came up and I had to go for it. Needless to say, it’s my new daily driver - what an amazing jacket. Funny how LHT has a totally different shine to it. Anybody know why that is?

I have a early 70s Stormrider with Alaskan lining pretty washed and beat up that i'm thinking about letting loose for one of those new Archives ones....

 

[Pandemic]

Thoughts on the Real McCoy’s Edwin version? There are a few on eBay from Japan and the price is ok, but the sizing seems really off and the fabric doesn’t have that classic Lee look.

 

[Facini]

I’ve kept an eye out for those RMC models, I think the looks great - especially their stormrider version looks cool. But the new 1950 version from Lee Japan Archives seems to be as close to the real deal as it gets… the RMC being a bit whacky in size and hard to come don’t help its case like you mentioned.

Now we just need someone to get one of those new Archives models home and share the deets with us…

 

[Pandemic]

$400 plus tariffs is pretty steep for a denim jacket, but I think you are right that that looks like the best option. I will keep looking for a good vintage jacket in 38 or 40, but some of those prices are getting up there too!

 

[One Drop]

Been into Levi’s for as long as I’ve been into denim but was always quite curious on the rider and especially stormrider jackets. So, finally, a late 60s 101-J in size 42R came up and I had to go for it. Needless to say, it’s my new daily driver - what an amazing jacket. Funny how LHT has a totally different shine to it. Anybody know why that is?

I have a early 70s Stormrider with Alaskan lining pretty washed and beat up that i'm thinking about letting loose for one of those new Archives ones.... View attachment 724150
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Beautiful example, wear it well! Perhaps the lighter blue gives it that look, I've not heard much about the LH twill changing the appearance of the denim, but I do know it gives them a softness and suppleness that you don't find in Levi's and Wrangler vintage denim. Some people don't like the wide arms but I think they look great and make the jacket far more comfortable and wearable than modern cut Trucker or Rider jackets with narrow tailored arms.

 

[One Drop]

Good to know! I have a 38” chest and want to wear this over a button-down shirt at the office. Typically wear jackets on the slim side, though if like this to be comfortable enough for all-day wear.



Looking forward to your review. That’s a bit more than I’m willing to pay for my first Lee jacket. Now that TCB is out, I’m looking at one of the cheaper Japanese ‘Rider’ repros or a vintage 220.

It's not cheap, that's for sure. I'm lucky because the Swiss Franc is very high at the moment, but it's a moot question now as I found a steal deal on an early '70s Storm Rider yesterday while I was looking on Grailed for measurements to compare the vintage models to the Archives one.

USD $160 for a very gently used one with minimal fading was too good to pass up, even the shipping was reasonable. It looks to be in great shape save for one tiny hole on the back of an arm. I'll post pictures when it arrives, shouldn't be long as it's coming from Georgia (the country, not the state).

https://www.grailed.com/listings/83...-storm-rider-101lj-blanket-lined-denim-jacket

 

[Facini]

Wow!! What an absolutely amazing find. I paid in the same ballpark for one that’s waaay more beaten up. Can’t wait to see it up close. Maybe I should be watching grailed for a new one haha

@One Drop but why would it be softer is my question then? Regardless I completely agree. The rider jackets only work in these cuts - make them longer or slimmer and all the coolness disappears

 

[One Drop]

Wow!! What an absolutely amazing find. I paid in the same ballpark for one that’s waaay more beaten up. Can’t wait to see it up close. Maybe I should be watching grailed for a new one haha

@One Drop but why would it be softer is my question then? Regardless I completely agree. The rider jackets only work in these cuts - make them longer or slimmer and all the coolness disappears

The answer can be found below. Apparently it's related to the direction the yarn is spun as well, if it's spun the in same direction as the weave is spun there is more friction and thus tension, and the result is a tighter weave. Lee uses a clockwise spun thread and a counter-clockwise weave.

https://www.heddels.com/2014/01/understanding-twills-left-hand-twill-right-hand-twill-broken-twill/

 

[Pandemic]

I’m still warming to the fuller sleeves, which I did not like previously.

There is something really special about how the vintage Lee LHT denim fades to that lovely pale blue that you don’t see in most denim jackets.

And while I’ve been searching the various sites for a nice entry-level 101J/220J, the Westerner jackets (mostly repros) have caught my eye. I’ve had a few ecru Levi’s Type 3s in my time, but the style of the Lee version coupled with the twill fabric is really special. I’m just not sure if I’d wear it a lot and if it’s too western for me (I live in Texas, western is really uncool here hahah)

 

[One Drop]

I’m still warming to the fuller sleeves, which I did not like previously.

There is something really special about how the vintage Lee LHT denim fades to that lovely pale blue that you don’t see in most denim jackets.

And while I’ve been searching the various sites for a nice entry-level 101J/220J, the Westerner jackets (mostly repros) have caught my eye. I’ve had a few ecru Levi’s Type 3s in my time, but the style of the Lee version coupled with the twill fabric is really special.

The Westerner is amazing, but not the easiest to wear, colour-wise. I have a Japanese repro that I got used, but as much as I love the look when I put it on I find it difficult to pair with

 

[Pandemic]

The Westerner is amazing, but not the easiest to wear, colour-wise. I have a Japanese repro that I got used, but as much as I love the look when I put it on I find it difficult to pair with

Thanks, that’s what I suspected.

I used to love the ecru type 3 I had in a light pique, but never got beyond one tshirt and jeans to go with it.

 

[Pandemic]

I ended-up negotiating a package deal with a Japanese vintage seller on Grailed.

A sweet looking 220 in really nice condition that should fit well.

And a mystery Westerner. It might be a repro or late production model. The condition is excellent, the measurements are good and it doesn’t have hand warmer pockets, so worth a shot for something I’m not sure I’ll wear a lot.

I’ll know in about a week!

 

[Pandemic]

DHL just delivered to my office and I couldn’t wait to try them with higher waisted trousers. These two were around $200. The fit feels pretty good, though they are definitely shorter than I’m used to. How did I do?

 

[Facini]

They sit exactly where they are supposed to @Pandemic ! Only works with some higher/vintage rise type of jeans/trousers. With a lower cut pant it looks so off, though. I’d be very satisfied with that score - that westerner in looks awesome - was it a repro?

 

[Pandemic]

They sit exactly where they are supposed to @Pandemic ! Only works with some higher/vintage rise type of jeans/trousers. With a lower cut pant it looks so off, though.

Thanks, man! It’s a nice fit. I have plenty of high rise trousers, just happened to be wearing mid-rise today. I’m sure I’ll be more comfortable when my belt line is higher, and less like I’m wearing a ladies’ jacket.

I’d be very satisfied with that score - that westerner in looks awesome - was it a repro?

I was hoping someone here could tell me. The seller listed it as 1990s and I can’t find any other tags or clues.

 

[Facini]

I guess rise is a subjective term - i wouldn’t call those mid, lol. Either way, works perfectly with the jackets. What are they anyway, the pants?

If you are on insta or SuperFuture, hit up Dr_Heech. He’s the main man on Lee.

 

[Pandemic]

I guess rise is a subjective term - i wouldn’t call those mid, lol. Either way, works perfectly with the jackets. What are they anyway, the pants?

Just some cheap Levi’s 505 cords I grabbed on a sale.

If you are on insta or SuperFuture, hit up Dr_Heech. He’s the main man on Lee.

Cool, thanks!

 

[One Drop]

DHL just delivered to my office and I couldn’t wait to try them with higher waisted trousers. These two were around $200. The fit feels pretty good, though they are definitely shorter than I’m used to. How did I do?

View attachment 725523 View attachment 725524 View attachment 725525 View attachment 725526

They both look fabulous.

The denim one appears a bit shorter in that picture because of the contrasting colour but both fit as they should. I’m only 5’ 7” so the short cropped jackets don’t seem all that short on me, you appear to be much taller so the effect is greater.

In the day the 101 J was sold in Regular and Long, to account for height differences (I think the sleeves remained the same length?). I don’t think the Westerner was ever available in different lengths.

 

[One Drop]

Thanks, man! It’s a nice fit. I have plenty of high rise trousers, just happened to be wearing mid-rise today. I’m sure I’ll be more comfortable when my belt line is higher, and less like I’m wearing a ladies’ jacket.



I was hoping someone here could tell me. The seller listed it as 1990s and I can’t find any other tags or clues.

Pretty sure it’s a Japanese repro. They sold tons of them in Asia and the large majority of Westerners for sale in any kind of decent shape are from then or more recent runs. You can always tell by the washing label on the inside of the torso, even if you can’t read it, as the originals had none.

A Westerner from the ‘60s in that shape would go for well over $500 and there is little chance of making a ‘find’ over the popular internet platforms.

I love mine, the sateen textile is very special and it really pops when paired with the right trousers and shirt. I end up rarely wearing it but each time I do I get that great ‘new clothes!’ feeling.

 

[One Drop]

I guess rise is a subjective term - i wouldn’t call those mid, lol. Either way, works perfectly with the jackets. What are they anyway, the pants?

If you are on insta or SuperFuture, hit up Dr_Heech. He’s the main man on Lee.

Thanks for the heads up!