Berets, Anyone?

Jack, I have no exp. with that exact beret, but it LOOKS precisely like my German military, and this one is excellently made and durable. Been wearing it off and on for 15 years.

I have not been fond of berets since my time in the Army, where the beret was a subject of constant: cleaning, reshaping, stretching and an infernal source of extreme discomfort in the hot, hot, HOT Texas sun. The very idea of putting berets on men and women who are mostly stationed in hot, southern climates and who work mostly out of doors implies a leadership that primarily works indoors.

They've been ruined for me, probably for life.

1930's beret wearing.

I really like the look of berets being worn with swim suits or sportswear in the 30's.

Sorry too butt in, but i have to agree with Paddy, i think that look is very jaunty. I have a picture somewhere of my grandfather on the beach in italy in the late thirties in shirtsleeves and a beret, relaxed elegance i would say!

The suaveness of the beret...

http://paddy-wagon.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2009-12-12T11:35:00Z&max-results=7

I find it very easy and useful as it just rolls up in my pocket and out it pops when needed

PS: Would love to see your grand-father's pic!!

Wolfmanjack said:

Sportsman's Guide is selling used French military berets at the incredible price of four (yes, I said four) for $14.97! See them here. But what do I do with four berets?

Has anyone had experience with these? They are described as "used, in very good shape."

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Of course, there is a big difference between military and Basque berets. Not only the txortena (the "wick" or "fuse" on a Basque beret) that is cut from the military beret (with most military berets you can still feel the little knob where the txortena was), but also the leather (or more often synthetic) rim with drawstring, the ventilation holes on the side and often a beret badge protection patch.
Whereas the military beret is generally small in diameter and tightly fitted, the Basque beret is often large and enables you to wear it in various ways (offering protection from sun and rain).

As for these French berets, they are cheap all right, but according to the description they are made of a wool blend and really, you don't want a tight polyester-blend beret on your head in any kind of weather - believe me.
Also, according to the description, these are supposedly the "genuine cover of the French Foreign Legion", except that the Foreign Legion wears green berets and carry a label specifically stating the beret was made for the Foreign Legion (either the plain cotton "DRAGO" label, the embroidered "Plein Ciel" label (with parachute) or the embroidered label of the 2ème REP (2ème Régiment Étranger de Parachutistes)...

If you are after a Foreign Legion beret, there are plenty for sale (some originals, many true copies) on Ebay. If you are after a comfortable beret that you can wear in both summer and winter, go for a genuine Basque beret.

My beret, I wouldn't really wear one through choice though...

Thanks, Daan. You are a treasure lode of information. I think I'll pass up the "bargain" at Sportsman's Guide. It hurts, though.

Daan said:

I have seen a few Stetson berets, but they are pretty rare and I found it impossible (so far) to find any specific details on them. I believe these berets to be from the 1950's and they are most likely manufactured by Pierre Laulhère, in Oloron St Marie (Béarn, France - not the Basque Country).
As for the heraldry (quote: "Such a highly Americanized version of European heraldry"), all symbols on the label are actually French: beaver (common in France until hunted down for fur and castoreum), French eagle (typical representation of an eagle in French heraldry) and of course the Phrygian cap.

Labeling in berets is far from straightforward. Manufacturers have sewn in custom made labels for wholesalers, hat shops, mountaineering clubs, regional councils, etc., etc. So, it may appear there were 100's of beret manufacturers, there were actually only around 45 at the best of times in France and Spain combined (now there are only two: Boinas Elósegui and Pierre Laulhère/Beatex).
On The Beret Project I regularly post images of labels; there are 100's of them and there are actually numerous people who collect and frame these labels...
A good present-day example of custom labeling, are the Jaxon berets - made by Boinas Elósegui and identical to their own top berets.

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First, a geography lesson for Daan. Basque Country is where the Basque people have historically lived, bridging the present nations of Spain and France. In neither country does the term "Basque" have a political meaning, i.e., there is no official Basque region or province or district. While there are no defined Basque borders as such, the overwhelming consensus among geographers is that Basque Country includes the land along the slopes of the Pyrenees Mountains--both sides, Spain to the south and France to the North--as well as a crescent funneling westward away from those mountains along the Bay of Biscay--again, in both Spain and France.

There are two beret factories remaining in this area. Boinas Elosegui is in Tolosa, which is in the Euskal Herriko province of Spain; Pierre Laulhère/Beatex is in Oloron Sainte-Marie, which is in the Bearn historic region of France. Both towns are about equidistant from the Spain-France border and clearly in Basque Country. These are incontrovertible facts, so it is entirely appropriate to refer to berets manufactured at either factory as made in Basque Country, the greater Basque region, and the like.

In my judgement, at present, the top-of-the-line Boinas Elosegui is better than Beatex' top-flight model, and I agree with Daan that the Stetson appears to be like the ones made by Pierre Laulhère fifty or more years ago.

As for the label inside the Stetson beret that I found amusing (yes, Donnc, that animal on the right is not a rooster but an Eagle), though I did not realize it at the time, I now know that is the same crest Stetson has used for years on many of its hats and hat boxes. I'm sure the Stetson hat experts here, should they be so bold as to step into a beret thread, will confirm that. These symbols may look French to you, Daan, but you are, once again, wrong, as they are part of the same old crest the can't-get-more-American company Stetson has used for decades.

You are correct in stating, like I did previously on this thread, that an almost infinite variety of labels have been sewn or glued into berets actually made by only a few manufactures. A good current example is the Jaxon, which, as you pointed out, is identical to Boinas Elosegui's top-line model in every detail except the label.

AlterEgo said:

First, a geography lesson for Daan. Basque Country is where the Basque people have historically lived, bridging the present nations of Spain and France.

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Well, dear AlterEgo, I don't know who your geography teacher was, but next time you see him, clip him around the ears and tell him that the the northern part of the Basque Country (the part of the Basque Country that lies in France), consist of three provinces, namely Soule (or Zuberoa, in Euskal), Labourd (Lapurdi) and Lower Navarre (Nafarroa Beherea).
The Département Béarn borders the Basque Country, but is definitely not part of it (even though there is one village in the Département Béarn where Euskal is spoken: Esquiule).
If you had any Basque or Béarnaise friends, you would have known how offended either party would be about mistakes re. their native land's boundaries (I actually lived in the Béarn - believe me).
I don't think The Fedora Lounge is the place to argue about geography, but get your self a proper text book (or spend a few minutes Googling) and you'll find that your "incontrovertible facts" are actually fiction.

I get the impression you are on a bit of a mission proving that you are the beret-expert you claim to be - I wouldn't dare to argue your expertise, but as pointed out above and in previous posts, it would be more convincing if you got your facts right.

Likewise with the heraldry: I pointed out ("all symbols on the label are actually French") and you respond with "These symbols may look French to you, Daan, but you are, once again, wrong, as they are part of the same old crest the can't-get-more-American company Stetson has used for decades".
Again, use Google or a good text book to find examples of French 17th and 18th C. heraldic symbols and you'll see that the symbols "used by Stetson for decades" are a few centuries older than the Stetson company (or the U.S., for that matter)...

Last, you say "In my judgement, at present, the top-of-the-line Boinas Elosegui is better than Beatex' top-flight model"; everyone his own choice, of course, but in my opinion, there is not something like a best beret. Both the Elósegui and the Laulhère top models are excellent berets and it is a matter of taste and personal preferences what determines a good beret per individual.
I sell both of the above mentioned "top berets", but actually prefer the cheaper Argentinean made Tolosa Tupida's...

Some more incontrovertible facts...

AlterEgo said:

These are incontrovertible facts

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AlterEgo's facts made me think of some other facts, printed on the cardboard cover of The American Basque Beret, a beret made in France for The American Basque Beret Company in the 1950's.

I quote the most interesting (or fantastic...) ones:
- When the ancient Roman male wished to become engaged to a girl, he merely snatched off her beret. This symbolized that she was accepted.
- The aboriginal inhabitants of England during battle wore only close-fitting berets and no other apparel whatsoever.
- The Lhardi tribes of Northern Tibet always wear berets made from the hair of departed relatives as a sign of respect.
- Korean gentlemen always wear two berets, one above the other. They take off only the outer one when indoors.
- In Spain, during the 11th Century, the women wore plain berets, whereas those worn by the men were decorated with flowers and feathers.
- Superstitious newly married couples of Tahiti present a native beret to each other on every wedding anniversary as a symbol of good luck.
- Peasants and common people of ancient Greece for a time during the 3rd Century, were not permitted to wear berets. Only the privileged classes wore berets at the time.
- The Cheusur people of the Caucasian Mountain District today still wear the same type of beret as their ancestors, the early Crusaders, wore 1400 years ago.
And how do you like this one: Superstitious maidens of Afghanistan sleep with their native beret on so they will not be annoyed by evil spirits that prevent them finding a husband.

As for The American Basque Beret, I can't find any more information than what's provided on the box (and thinking of the 'facts', that information is questionable...). The beret inside the box measures only 21.5 cm diameter (8.5"). The box proudly displays the US flag and advertises the beret as "American Basque Beret" with a registered US patent.

Etcheberria WWII Era Perhaps?



I'm not an expert. It was claimed to be WWII and does have an odd synthetic sweatband material(tends to crack) seen on some wartime sweatbands. I'm happy to learn more. Just over 10" or 26cm.

L'Aiglon



Gave this small size Beret to my sister. Unknown age.

L'Aiglon by Pierre Laulhère

rlk said:

Gave this small size Beret to my sister. Unknown age.

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I am not sure about the Etcheberria, but shall ask around. It does look like a 1940's or 50's beret. Definitely French made. Nice label.
As for the L'Aiglon: this beret was made by Pierre Laulhère in Oloron St Marie (I believe they actually still carry the L'Aiglon label).
I just posted some vintage advertising of Pierre Laulhère on my blog, click here.

The S.W.A.T. Shop

A friend of mine sent me this link, an on-line store of authentic headgear (including many vintage berets).
There are some very interesting and hard-to-find pieces on offer; many French military berets (Foreign Legion, WWII era), but also from (former) countries like Rhodesia and South-West Africa.

Canadian "Basque Beret"





Made in Canada by Dorothea Knitting Mills. Lightweight 11-1/2"(USA)

The one and only thing I like when the weather gets colder and wetter:
I can wear my bigger berets made from wool:

and soon as I have some money for spare I will try to get big cotton ones, since last time i had to pass for financial reasons.
P.S.:
Until now I only came upon one beret which I couldnt make fit for my size 61cm head and that was because it has been slightly too large already, a one-off. All other had to be stretched with hand and knee and fit perfectly ever since. So if you have a large LO noggin, give them a try!

Kreissaege said:

P.S.:
Until now I only came upon one beret which I couldnt make fit for my size 61cm head and that was because it has been slightly too large already, a one-off. All other had to be stretched with hand and knee and fit perfectly ever since. So if you have a large LO noggin, give them a try!

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Of course, this is about the beret with no leather sweatband.

The local hat shop stocks some French berets with leather sweatbands, very nice - I suppose that if the beret material doesn't also have to serve in place of the sweatband, it can be a little finer. But size was very tricky, and the stitches were rather uncomfortable. Without the sweatband, you may safely order one with confidence that it will fit, and it will be cheaper and more comfortable.

Spanish Beret


Arrevola, Madrid. "NOS" as they say...minor moth damage but still has paper inside. Pulgadas 11 1/2(c. 10"x11" USA)

rlk said:

Made in Canada by Dorothea Knitting Mills. Lightweight 11-1/2"(USA)

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The Dorothea Knitting Mills Ltd. is also known as Parkhurst Knitwear. The company was founded in Toronto, Canada in 1926. Parkhurst Knitwear produces a wide range of products: sweaters, scarves, gloves throws, pillows, cotton and felt hats, and of course, berets.

With the decline in beret-wearing over the last decades, Parkhurst found themselves two interesting niche markets.

One by manufacturing cotton and light wool berets for chemotherapy patients (as well as snoods, turbans and similar head covering hats) and the second by manufacturing snoods and pre-tied head scarves for orthodox Jewish women.

They are actually very nice berets (my partner Megan wears her's all the time), quite similar to the Argentinean Espinosa and Tolosa Tupida models, but for most men a bit too soft and floppy.
Interestingly, downtown LA clothing company American Apparel has their berets made by Parkhurst, making it sexy for young people to wear berets again.

There is a long history behind Parkhurst (or the Dorethea Knitting Mills). They were (and maybe still are?) the main suppliers of the Canadian Armed Forces and many WWII era berets come from the Dorothea Knitting Mills.